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Ups and downs


Florida Jim

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2004 Schloss Castell, Silvaner Trocken:

A bright, very slightly spritzy, 12% alcohol wine from Franken with very clean aromatics, a nicely citric palate and little finish. Destined for light lunches, picnics and, by virtue of bottle shape, when one wishes to recall those days when Mateus reigned supreme. Pleasant.

2004 Breton, Morgon Vielles Vignes:

Stemmy and candied on the nose; decent fruit that seems too sweet on the palate; medium finish. Unpleasant.

1994 LaJota, Petite Sirah:

After the memorable 1995 vintage of this wine a couple weeks ago, this was a completely forgettable; very sweet oak and candied nose; disjointed, manipulated and over-oaked palate; and . . . as for the finish, who cares. A nasty example of a winemaker screwing-up what nature gave him or her.

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard:

Slightly oxidized (cork completely wet) and a bit mute and soft on both the nose and palate; there’s that good crackling, red fruit flavor that I find typical of Anderson Valley pinots but its lost in a damaged wine. Too bad.

2003 DuMol, Chardonnay chloe:

A little too much butterscotch oak this time but still, there is a fruit concentration, intensity and acidity that is uncommon in CA chardonnay . . . at least, in my experience.

2004 Pepiére, Muscasdet:

Just great; beautiful aromatics, a richness that is off-set perfectly by acidity and a balance that is almost impossible to describe. Delicious, life-affirming wine.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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2004 Schloss Castell, Silvaner Trocken:

A bright, very slightly spritzy, 12% alcohol wine from Franken with very clean aromatics, a nicely citric palate and little finish. Destined for light lunches, picnics and, by virtue of bottle shape, when one wishes to recall those days when Mateus reigned supreme. Pleasant.

2004 Breton, Morgon Vielles Vignes:

Stemmy and candied on the nose; decent fruit that seems too sweet on the palate; medium finish. Unpleasant.

1994 LaJota, Petite Sirah:

After the memorable 1995 vintage of this wine a couple weeks ago, this was a completely forgettable; very sweet oak and candied nose; disjointed, manipulated and over-oaked palate; and . . . as for the finish, who cares. A nasty example of a winemaker screwing-up what nature gave him or her.

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard:

Slightly oxidized (cork completely wet) and a bit mute and soft on both the nose and palate; there’s that good crackling, red fruit flavor that I find typical of Anderson Valley pinots but its lost in a damaged wine. Too bad.

2003 DuMol, Chardonnay chloe:

A little too much butterscotch oak this time but still, there is a fruit concentration, intensity and acidity that is uncommon in CA chardonnay . . . at least, in my experience.

2004 Pepiére, Muscasdet:

Just great; beautiful aromatics, a richness that is off-set perfectly by acidity and a balance that is almost impossible to describe. Delicious, life-affirming wine.

Best, Jim

Jim, have you tried an Anne Amie or a Raptor Ridge Piont Noir from Oregon? Full body, thick for a pinot, rasin, berry--both wonderful.

Cooking is chemistry, baking is alchemy.

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