On Being the Editor in Chief

[Susan in FL]

First of all, thank you for answering our questions in this Spotlight Conversation, and welcome.

I am a nut about food magazines and Gourmet is of course one of the dozen or so to which I subscribe. I am fascinated by what it must be like to be an Editor in Chief, so my questions are asked out of that curiosity. What months' issues do you like the best in general, and are there any certain months that you have any sense of dread about? Out of all the contents of Gourmet, what features, columns, or what kinds of pieces are your personal favorites?

I read the Letter From the Editor in all my magazines. Is that something that comes easy and enjoyable for you? I especially enjoyed your Letter in the November issue about the turkey and your determination never again to ruin anyone's meal.

[Ruth Reichl]

First of all, thank you for answering our questions in this Spotlight Conversation, and welcome.

I am a nut about food magazines and Gourmet is of course one of the dozen or so to which I subscribe.  I am fascinated by what it must be like to be an Editor in Chief, so my questions are asked out of that curiosity.  What months' issues do you like the best in general, and are there any certain months that you have any sense of dread about?  Out of all the contents of Gourmet, what features, columns, or what kinds of pieces are your personal favorites?

I read the Letter From the Editor in all my magazines.  Is that something that comes easy and enjoyable for you?  I especially enjoyed your Letter in the November issue about the turkey and your determination never again to ruin anyone's meal.

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I'll answer backwards. Editor's Letter are easy for me - I love doing them. I wait until the very last minute, mostly, and then just sit down and write whatever comes into my head.

Personal favorites? Generally I like the pieces that terrify me, the ones that I know are pushing the envelope, the ones that I know some people will just hate. The David Foster Wallace piece on lobster comes to mind, because it was such a great piece of writing, but also so out there. The piece on Transfats too - I thought it was important, and added new information, moved the argument forward. And MIchael Ruhlman's first piece for us, on Thomas Keller. It was in my second issue, and I worried and worried about including the bit about killing the rabbits. I really loved publishing John Haney's piece about growing up in the east end of London too. John's our copy chief, a great writer, and he got a book contract after the piece was published.

What months do I like best? I'd say the big issues - September through December - because we have so much more room in the winter months, and don't have to make so many difficult decisions about which pieces to cut. I also like the issues where we break the format. They're harder, but very satisfying. The Single City issues (March), and the anniversary issues. We've got one of those in January, and I just love it. I think readers will too.

[Pontormo]

Ms. Reichl:

Thank you for mentioning John Haney's piece, an essay that still haunts me and remains my favorite of all that I have enjoyed reading in Gourmet. I also remember how warmly you introduced his contribution; I am pleased to learn the author has gained recognition for his work.

A member of my family is from that part of London and I almost sent her a copy, but then stopped myself. Her feelings about her childhood are mixed, especially when it comes to matters of class. The gesture might have been viewed as an insensitive reminder of the difficulties she has managed to escape.

Another strong memory from reading Gourmet was the decision to substitute the word "canned" for "tinned" long before your tenure.

It is gratifying to see how much the magazine has moved away from a rarefied position in the publishing world, accommodating so many different kinds of voices.

Edited November 29, 2005 by Pontormo (log)