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Mixed bag


Florida Jim

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With potato/parsley soup and cheese toasts:

1999 Dom. de Roally (Henri Goyard), Mâcon-Village:

Ripe chardonnay fruit scents with an aroma of poached pears in cinnamon, deep, clean and expansive; viscous on the palate but the acid structure sparks flavors that echo the nose and add white pepper, light honey, mineral and spring water, concentrated, intense, very slight RS and perhaps the best balance of any chardonnay based wine in recent memory (a symmetry that is both hard to explain and harder to match); long, mouthwatering finish.

I understand that this was the last vintage where Goyard was in total charge – I have had two previous bottles that showed closed and sweet – this was magnificent and a wine I wish I had more of, especially since it cost $21, full retail. Started to tighten-up some with air, so it will do fine with further time in the cellar.

With gremolata seared chicken and a potato, mushroom and beet gratin:

2000 Raveneau, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre:

Smells like a fountain that someone squeezed lemon juice into – crisp, penetrating, lightly lemony and very fresh; not as viscous in the mouth as the preceding wine but more complex with licorice accents to the mineral/fruit driven flavor profile and some green chili hints, bright and intense but still slightly closed; long finish that’s full of cut. This has opened quite a bit since release when it was simply too acidic and tight to drink. But this vineyard seems to grow grapes for vin de garde, especially in Raveneau’s hands. Many years to peak but excellent with the dish.

With leftover pork loin and my Mom’s potato salad:

1996 Dom. G. Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny:

Bright tones of beet root, black raspberry, spice and mushroom on a crisp, slightly attenuated nose; flavors follow the nose with an elegant delivery that is bright and almost seamless; medium length, slightly tart finish. Ultimately, a pleasant wine and nice with the dish but does not live-up to my expectations for either Roumier or Chambolle.

A little softer after 6 hours in the decanter but still not special.

With pasta in red sauce with Italian sausage:

1995 La Jota, Petite Sirah:

Powerful scents of plums, cherries, spice and bitter-sweet chocolate with just a hint of tar; very full bodied with incredibly fine and sweet tannins (and plenty of them) with flavors that follow the nose, concentrated, intense and a worsted texture that coats the mouth; long, tannin-sweet finish. Bitter-sweet chocolate is the dominant flavor, the texture is simply yummy and the tannins are not in the least bit drying. The most enjoyable petite sirah I can remember and at peak, now. Excellent with the dish.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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