Schwa - Chicago

[Lenski]

You share our enormous appreciation of both Michael and Nathan's talents. They continue to dazzle everyone that welcomes the culinary delights that this tiny kitchen produces. Chicago has no challengers to these two innovators. Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points. And, you can provide your own wine! What could be better?  Chicago savor these two talents for all of 2007. We all want them to stay and continue to work their culinary magic. Judith Gebhart

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Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points.

And, IMHO, they rival chefs with a much higher price point. Apart from their highly sophisticated cuisine, there is something very special going on at "Schwa." I cannot put my finger on it; however, I believe the (welcome) lack of pretentiousness, Nathan's exquisite taste in music (not to everybody's taste but...), and the sense of camaraderie established by their cooking/serving combination makes "Schwa" an experience to behold and savour. Here is to 2007 and my respects and myI-am-not-worth-it shout-out to Michael, Nathan, Blake, Pedro and the new guy whose name escapes me at the moment.

Lenski,

[docsconz]

You share our enormous appreciation of both Michael and Nathan's talents. They continue to dazzle everyone that welcomes the culinary delights that this tiny kitchen produces. Chicago has no challengers to these two innovators. Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points. And, you can provide your own wine! What could be better?  Chicago savor these two talents for all of 2007. We all want them to stay and continue to work their culinary magic. Judith Gebhart

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Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points.

And, IMHO, they rival chefs with a much higher price point. Apart from their highly sophisticated cuisine, there is something very special going on at "Schwa." I cannot put my finger on it; however, I believe the (welcome) lack of pretentiousness, Nathan's exquisite taste in music (not to everybody's taste but...), and the sense of camaraderie established by their cooking/serving combination makes "Schwa" an experience to behold and savour. Here is to 2007 and my respects and myI-am-not-worth-it shout-out to Michael, Nathan, Blake, Pedro and the new guy whose name escapes me at the moment.

Lenski,

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I think what you described is a very important ingredient in Schwa's success. Though the food is undeniably excellent, the challenge will be repeating the quality and consistency in a larger venue should they be so inclined. I am by no means urging this, as what they have now is indeed something special and it would be a shame to spoil it if they were unable to transfer that specialness to a lrger setting. In the meantime those lucky enough to dine at Schwa should enjoy it for what it is.

[ronnie_suburban]

In case anyone missed it, Lisa Shames wrote a great piece about Michael Carlson and Schwa, which appeared in the March 27 edition of NewCity Chicago:

Carlson has the experience to run with the culinary alchemists, having worked with England's Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck and Achatz at Trio. Yet he also has his feet firmly planted in the traditional style of straightforward Italian cuisine, influenced by his time spent at Chicago's Spiaggia with chef Paul Bartolotta, and in restaurants in Italy. It's this combination of culinary techniques from two opposite sides of the spectrum that's getting Schwa's food noticed.

While Schwa's three-course and nine-course menus change--look for an oysters and oatmeal dish to make an appearance soon ("It sounds weird, but they really go together well," Carlson says)--one ingredient is a given: fat. "Fat carries flavor really well," he says. Which brings us back to those popular ravioli that have been on the menu since day one. "What isn't there to like about it?" he says. "It's butter, eggs and great cheese. It's basically fat on fat on fat."

With all the attention it's received, some have predicted that Schwa might trade in some of its funky charm for the big bucks in the not-so-distant future. And while Carlson does admit that they have had some offers, he has no plans to sell out. "Ideally, we would like it if we could find a bigger space. But to be able to do it ourselves, so we would be able to stay with what we have here because we are happy doing it." He adds, "We are working like a hundred hours [a week] and it doesn't feel like anything."

The Sultan of Schwa

=R=

[Lenski]

Thanks for the link. I went to "Schwa" a month or so ago and, as you know, I have been a huge fan of that restaurant.

However, the last meal that I had there was the best meal that I have ever had at Schwa. I had the oysters "thing" and it was out of this world. Desserts have really improved.

If it only were easier to get a table there.....

[BryanZ]

How far in advance should one book a table? Will they do single diners given how few tables they have?

[Lenski]

I just booked for late May and June, but not for the dates I wanted. It is very difficult to get a table there since the space is very, very small. Also, they close on Saturdays (few exceptions aside).

[nsxtasy]

Also, they close on Saturdays (few exceptions aside).

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Still? I know he was closed Saturdays for the past few months, due to the birth of his child, but I thought I had heard he was open again on Saturdays... no?

[ulterior epicure]

How far in advance should one book a table?  Will they do single diners given how few tables they have?

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Bryan,

I dined alone at Schwa... but that was before the sh*tstorm of press and media really made reservations impossilbe. In fact, I called the week before and was fine. There were even a couple of walk-ins the evening I was there. This was circa February of 2006.

I really don't know how the current reservation policy/conditions are, but would be interested to hear.

u.e.

[BryanZ]

Is 773-252-1466 the correct phone number? No one is answering the voicemail is full.

[Lenski]

Is 773-252-1466 the correct phone number?  No one is answering the voicemail is full.

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Yes, that is their telephone number. They rarely answer the phone after four pm since they all start cooking. A colleague told me (can anyone confirm?) that they might be close all July.

[nyokie6]

I've been having the same problem as BryanZ. I generally start calling for reservations 3 months in advance, if possible. Today is the 14th day that I've gotten the mailbox full message. Any ideas?

Thanks, Tobi

[nsxtasy]

Any ideas?

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Try e-mail?

Email Chef, Michael Carlson

michael@schwarestaurant.com

Email Sous Chef, Nathan Klingbail

nathan@schwarestaurant.com

[cookthis]

Is 773-252-1466 the correct phone number?  No one is answering the voicemail is full.

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Yes, that is their telephone number. They rarely answer the phone after four pm since they all start cooking. A colleague told me (can anyone confirm?) that they might be close all July.

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yeah i am pretty sure that they are going to be closed all of july. i am going out there next week to do a stage and possbily extern there for part of the summer.

Blake told me that they have been extermely busy lately. he also said, that they were going to be closed for the first two weeks of april. this is why their voice mail would be full and no one is answering calls. try back sometime this week, if not, the week after. word out

[nyokie6]

Blake told me that they have been extermely busy lately.  he also said, that they were going to be closed for the first two weeks of april.  this is why their voice mail would be full and no one is answering calls.  try back sometime this week, if not, the week after.  word out

Thanks

[ronnie_suburban]

I was lucky enough to get into Schwa a couple weeks back, right after the crew returned from their time off in New York. A friend had scored a Wednesday-night reservation and offered one of the seats to me. It had been about 8 months since my last visit and with the exception of the heaven-sent quail egg ravioli, the menu was entirely new to me.

As was alluded to above, Chef Carlson along with Nathan, Blake and the rest of the crew display the kind of genuine hospitality that is a natural offshoot of loving what one does in life. They are sincere and eager to please in ways that cannot be faked. Dining at Schwa is a joy not only because the food is so good but also because its vibe is so sweet. When you sit in the dining room at Schwa, you know that you're being fed by men who take pride in what they do -- and those other 25 diners in the room are as happy to be there as you are. No one just stumbles into Schwa.

It's probably not meaningful for me to comment on the evolution of specific dishes at Schwa because I haven't dined there frequently enough to have an adequate perspective. However, this meal was quite a departure from my last meal at Schwa. The biggest difference I noticed was the resourceful and innovative pairing of sweet and savory components in some dishes. Again, this an anecdotal observation based on nothing more than my last 2 meals at Schwa.

peas & carrots

This was a fun dish, which was a clever departure from the peas and carrots that most of us grew up with. Here, small pieces of crunchy, Thai-style pickled carrot were served in a small bowl along with an ultra-thin sheet of pea-wasabi 'nori' that crunched first and then melted in the mouth. It was delicious and the contrast between it and the tangy carrot was wonderful.

oysters

This is a dish that I never would have expected at Schwa. It combined lightly-breaded and flash-fried kumamato (iirc) oysters with rich, gooey oatmeal that had been laced with Blis maple syrup and studded with plump, warm raisins. Also served with this was a raw oyster shooter in a tiny shotglass at the top corner of the plate. This seemingly wacked-out combination really worked. The oatmeal and oysters complemented each other very well and the sweet accents provided by the maple and the raisins rounded out the dish nicely. Who knew?

fava

This may have been my favorite dish of the entire meal. It was basically early spring on a plate; a delicious salad of fresh favas, ramps and morels served with a demitasse of warm fava soup that had been laced with black truffle. I could have had this one again and again.

quail egg ravioli

I'm not sure what else can be said about this spectacular and sublime dish. It's hearty and delicate all at once. The combination of ricotta, quail egg, parmigiano reggiano, brown butter and black truffle is one of the most delicious I've ever experienced.

steelhead caviar

This was another dish which reflected the perceived change I mentioned above and again, it was quite successful. Here, sake-cured steelhead roe was combined with pinenut puree and topped with yuzu foam and barnacles. I was surprised by how well the roe worked with the intensely earthy pine nut. Its saltiness cut through each spoonful of puree magnificently, almost like a spotlight through a dense fog. It was almost as if you needed the roe on your tongue to illuminate the depth of the nutty puree. The barnacles were chewy, briney and delicious and the yuzu accented the other components terrifically.

halibut cheeks

These tender cheeks, cooked en sous vide and served with dual sauces of meyer lemon and basil, over artichoke confit, were terrific. Again, the meyer lemon sauce was very sweet but it combined well with the basil which muted the sweetness a bit. Together they formed a solid background for the aromatic fish. The artichokes were tasty in their own right and provided a nice textural contrast with the cheeks.

sweetbreads

The best sweetbreads I've ever had were at my last Schwa meal and these were nearly as good. Here, piping hot nuggets of lightly-coated and sauteed sweetbread were served with various plum elements, including a brightly-flavored salad of fresh and juicy, ultra-thin slices and a remarkable smoked puree. These elements were grounded masterfully by a portion of pungent queso de valderon at the bottom of the bowl. I loved the way the sweetbreads combined with the smokey puree. They almost tasted like bacon nuggets when dipped in it. Wow!!

lamb

Strips of succulent lamb loin, cooked en sous vide, and a square of delectable, braised, crispy lamb belly, which I'd never tasted before, were served together with green curry and root beer flavors. Both lamb cuts were terrific and the house-made root beer highlighted the meat well. The lamb belly was absolutely delicious and really concentrated in rich, lamb flavor.

cheese

Next up was a bite of savory, humboldt fog cheesecake with grains of paradise crust and pear emulsion. HF is one of my favorite cheeses of all time, so I really loved this clever and delicious bite. It was delightfully odd to be eating a piece of cheesecake with the flavor of humboldt fog. And I really loved the the sweet pear emulsion in the immediate background.

dessert

We were served a couple of dessert plates that were novel and delicious. The first was a uniquely-sweet beet semifreddo with bacon and chocolate. These components worked well together and the normally-savory components paired up remarkably well with the sweet ones. The second dessert, warm soft-pretzels with honey-mustard, dates and tumeric ice cream was also delicious. The pretzels were perfectly tender inside and released steam when we cracked into their shells. And the honey mustard was compelling. The turmeric ice cream made me laugh at first because of the way it echoed and amplified a similar note in the honey mustard. A very fun dish.

There was so much more to our meal and most of it had only peripherally to do with food. As I mentioned above, dining at Schwa is special. There is an immediacy to the experience that is unique -- and that immediacy adds to the excitement. But if the food weren't fantastic, none of that would matter. Schwa is an artist's studio where private performances are served and eaten nightly. It is an intensely personal experience that never feels intrusive. It's so much like being a guest at a friend's home, that you feel like you should offer to help clear the table when the meal's over. Of course, not too many of us have friends who can cook like this.

=R=

[melkor]

I was at Schwa a week or so after Ronnie and had a very similar menu. The ravioli, favas, and sweetbreads were all incredibly delicious. It was by a large margin my favorite meal of the week I spent eating in Chicago.

[david coonce]

My wife and I are going to be in Chicago in a couple weekends ... we called Schwa (have eaten there before) re: reservations but can't ever get hold of a real person...Are they closed on Sat/Sunday? What's the lag time on Reservations? If we called now could we get a seating mid-week in late-July, for example? Anybody with knowledge should let me know.

[nsxtasy]

Are they closed on Sat/Sunday?

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They had been closed on Saturdays earlier this year, following the birth of a new child in the Carlson household, but I thought they recently started serving on Saturdays again.

They are closed on Sundays. If you are looking for a restaurant open on Sundays in the innovative/splurge category, Alinea is open on Sundays, and so are NoMi, Spiaggia, and Seasons. A lot of the more casual restaurants are open on Sundays too, including Spring, Custom House, and mk.

What's the lag time on Reservations? If we called now could we get a seating mid-week in late-July, for example?

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Yes.

[KateinChicago]

dessert

We were served a couple of dessert plates that were novel and delicious. The first was a uniquely-sweet beet semifreddo with bacon and chocolate. These components worked well together and the normally-savory components paired up remarkably well with the sweet ones. The second dessert, warm soft-pretzels with honey-mustard, dates and tumeric ice cream was also delicious. The pretzels were perfectly tender inside and released steam when we cracked into their shells. And the honey mustard was compelling. The turmeric ice cream made me laugh at first because of the way it echoed and amplified a similar note in the honey mustard. A very fun dish.

I just ate at Schwa and pretty much agreed with everything Ronnie said about the restaurant and the experience EXCEPT the dessert. The beet semi-freddo was excessively salty to my taste and it suffered in comparison to the more traditional chocolate semi-freddo it was paired with. I didn't like the pretzel at all and pretty much stopped eating the dessert at that point as it just tasted so off to me. Fortunately what preceded the dessert was just fantastic.

My party of six didn't do the tasting menu because only half of us wanted to eat that much and the restaurant discouraged splitting the table between the three course and the nine course menu.

We also started with the aptly described (by Ronnie) peas and carrots. I thought it a very cute amuse albeit not exactly a flavor revelation. My five friends ordered identical dinners since their were only two choices for each course. The risotto with strawberry, asparagus and saba and the berkshire pork with braised napa cabbage, pureed parsnips, sauteed morels, black truffles and morel foam. I ordered the sunchoke soup with orange and allspice with raw sunchoke salad and the sable fish on a bed of fava bean puree with ramps and morels. The morels weren't supposed to be part of my dish but one of my friends hates mushrooms so I asked if they could give me the morels they wouldn't be using in her pork dish - they happily agreed. I thought that the morels worked beautifully with this dish and was happy to have them.

I'd never had sunchokes before so didn't know what to expect but what I got was absolutely delicious. My friends all offered me tastes of their risottos but only one wanted to taste my soup - a fact that I became very happy about. I tasted the risotto first and was really wowed by the combination of strawberry asparagus and the syrupy grape of the saba along with shavings of pecorino romano and some other additions along the side of the plate. I thought that I might have mis-ordered as the risotto was so perfectly cooked and flavorful - until I took my first sip of the soup. It was lick the plate good and it was only then that I realized that they served no bread with the dinner which I regretted because I could have used it sop up every last bit of the soup.

As an unexpected surprise we were served a course of the quail egg ravioli which everyone has raved about earlier between our first and main courses. I can't add anything other than how terrific this was. The thought of a runny yolk gives me the shivers, it's a childhood thing that I can't out grow, but, as the server told us to eat the ravioli in one bite, I never had to actually see the yolk. What a great bite that was!

Everyone was equally thrilled with their seconds. We all noticed that the Berkshire pork was saltier than expected but in a good way, I thought, and it all came together with the parsnips and morels. The truffles were more of a garnish than a real flavor element but it was universally enjoyed. I thought that the sable fish was beautifully cooked, crusty on the outside and impossibly tender and moist and the fava beans and fava puree really worked. The ramps were, well, just "there" and didn't add a whole lot but certainly didn't detract and the morels just made me very happy .

I loved the "vibe" of this place. It's pretty stark but the enthusiasm of the staff and the passion that they clearly put into the food made it a very memorable evening. I've mentioned that I didn't like the dessert and I really didn't like the dessert at all but I'd go back to the restaurant because the savory courses made up for that. My group was clearly the oldest group in the restaurant (we're in our mid to late 40's). The amenities are minimal but I liked bringing our own wine and the corkage fee ($2.50 a head) was very reasonable. It was a little strange going to the toilet which is located in the kitchen area. There is no valet parking and off Ashland the area requires permits for parking but nobody was ticketed.

This is fine dining as far as the food goes but it is definately not a fine dining experience as far as the ambiance and amenities. Most of my friends agreed that our husbands and SO's probably would be put off by the hip hop music, the very close quarters and noise level and the lack of valet parking. I know that my SO would kill me if I brought him to Schwa despite the terrific food. He likes widely spread out tables, deluxe service, low noise levels etc. all the stuff that you want/expect at a fine dining restaurant. He loves Seasons at the Four Seasons, Tru, Avenues, Spiaggia, One Sixty Blue and places like that when we do fine dining. If that's your thing you won't be happy at Schwa. But if you love great food and the peripherals are secondary I heartily recommend this place (despite the dessert) .

Kate

[dansch]

Having just relocated to Chicago, this is one of the places I am really excited to check out. I actually just called yesterday looking for a reservation and booked one out in June.

This is fine dining as far as the food goes but it is definately not a fine dining experience as far as the ambiance and amenities.  Most of my friends agreed that our husbands and SO's probably would be put off by the hip hop music, the very close quarters and noise level and the lack of valet parking.  I know that my SO would kill me if I brought him to Schwa despite the terrific food.  He likes widely spread out tables, deluxe service, low noise levels etc. all the stuff that you want/expect at a fine dining restaurant.  He loves Seasons at the Four Seasons, Tru, Avenues, Spiaggia, One Sixty Blue and places like that when we do fine dining.  If that's your thing you won't be happy at Schwa.  But if you love great food and the peripherals are secondary I heartily recommend this place (despite the dessert) .

Based on everything I've read, this is just the kind of place for me. Cloying service and pretension kind of put me on edge - it's just not comfortable to me. Not that I won't dine in places with them, but the idea of food at this level without it sounds fantastic.

Frankly, I go out dining for the food. When I travel I'm a street-food *and* 3-star kind of guy - I want the best possible food regardless of the setting. While I see that the ambiance of a fine-dining establishment is part of the overall positive experience, so too for me is crouching on a tiny stool in a packed alley of Hanoi at lunchtime with businessmen and old ladies eating off a plastic plate. I guess what I'm saying is that no amount of service or amenities can make up for lackluster food, but that fantastic food is still fantastic to me regardless of setting.

I also really like the idea of folks that want to produce food at this level, but want to maintain a hands-on approach, want the business to conform to their life (closed weekends, time for the family, etc.), and are creating the food experience that they want, not what convention mandates (huge staff, fancy decor, gentle music). That's something that I wish I had in my own life (I'm not in foodservice professionally) and can appreciate when other have created in their own.

All that said, the proof is in the pudding; I'll post my thoughts after my dinner there in June.

-Dan

[bushey]

When I called several weeks ago, they indicated that they are still closed on Saturdays. They also indicated that they were fully booked as far out as they take reservations..................

[dansch]

When I called several weeks ago, they indicated that they are still closed on Saturdays.  They also indicated that they were fully booked as far out as they take reservations..................

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When I called yesterday they were able to give me a couple of time options on June 21 (I just asked for their first-available day and that's what he offered).

-dan

[BryanZ]

Will they seat a single diner? I move out to Chicago for the summer in a couple days but want to lock down a reso at Schwa as soon as possible. If I book for one, could I theoretically add a second if I find someone who wants to go with me?

[ulterior epicure]

Will they seat a single diner?  I move out to Chicago for the summer in a couple days but want to lock down a reso at Schwa as soon as possible.  If I book for one, could I theoretically add a second if I find someone who wants to go with me?

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I went alone. But, that was early last year, before the storm of press really bumped them up to star-quality.

[santo_grace]

Will they seat a single diner?  I move out to Chicago for the summer in a couple days but want to lock down a reso at Schwa as soon as possible.  If I book for one, could I theoretically add a second if I find someone who wants to go with me?

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I would think you could add 1 person very easily, since the table would be a 2-top. They don't have a bar to seat you at, which is what some smaller places might do if you are a single. Just ask them when you make the reservation if you can add another person. I would guess if you gave them a days notice it would be fine.