need help to plan 10-day gastronomic tour of italy

[athinaeos]

fellow eGulletians!

i ask for your help in planning a 10-day gastronomic tour of some regions of italy, to take place in early november this year

i plan to visit campania, emilia romagna and toscana

kindly focus on ristoranti, trattorie and enotece which have offered you a memorable experience

many thanks for your help

[Kevin72]

You've definitely got some culinary heavyweights in there. How will you be planning on getting around? My word of caution is that when we've gone we've had a similar timeframe to work with and didn't budget in travel time effectively. If you're going by train you're probably killing a day in travel getting to or from Campania from the North. Our first time over we had planned on doing Rome in addition to Tuscany and E-R but then had to leave Rome out when we looked at travel times by train. Likewise, if you're planning on touring the smaller hill towns of Tuscany, there's train and bus schedules to consider that run at different times on different days. Just some advice there.

MichaelM went to Montalcino and Bologna earlier this spring and did a solid writeup of highlights and "best of " restaurants there: Link to the thread

Edited for clarity.

Edited September 13, 2005 by Kevin72 (log)

[docsconz]

My suggestion would be to spend two or three days in each place or better yet select two places and split them up. Campania and either Tuscany or E-R would work or Tuscany and E-R. I would suggest staying at an agriturismo or two. In Campania I strongly suggest Agriturismo Seliano. This is a great place to experience the essence of Mozzarella di bufala and Campanian cuisine. The down side since you are coming from Greece is that the major nearby tourist attraction are the Greek ruins at Paestum.

Near Modena is another great Agriturismo, Villa Gaidello. This is right in the heart of balsamico and parmiggiano country.

In Tuscany near Montepulciano is Poggio Etrusco, the agriturismo of the noted food writer and eGullet member Pamela Sheldon Johns.

[athinaeos]

thank you kevin (and all 72)

i plan on driving to save time

the link is useful

regarding toscana, i have been in montalcino twice,

this time i was thinking of visiting ristorante gambero rosso

any vies on this?

cheers

[athinaeos]

thank you john,

great suggestions for Campania and E-R! the fact that Phaestum is around the corner of Seliano, is a plus!

i never get tired of ruins, especially as i am fast becoming one myself!

i have been twice in Toscana

this time i was wondering whether the "gambero rosso" is worth the trip

any views on that?

cheers

[Kevin72]

Ristorante Gambero Rosso has quite a following on these boards if I recall and has been mentioned on a few threads.

Good that you're driving--that frees up considerable time and you can visit the little corners of each of the regions. I second, third, and tenth docsconz's Villa Gaidello recommendation, which a car is pretty essential to get to.

[robert brown]

Not always favorably. I called it the biggest disappointment of my 16-day run around Italy. Though we often think alike, the Sultan of Dining and I feel the same way. If you want to try Gambero Rosso nonetheless, you might eke out a good meal with the gamberi in chickpea sauce and a meat dish. Fulvio does those better than fish, we both believe. Otherwise, my somewhat detailed reports are free for the viewing and encompass to a large degree the territorio you will be visiting.

[athinaeos]

thank you robert,

kindly direct me to your reports, i am new and not very ggod in guessing

gambero of toscana is out for the moment, but how about the gambero in E-R?

cheers

[robert brown]

Athinaeos, now you're talking. You can read about my visit to the cheaper Gambero Rosso by going into the Italy forum page and scrolling down to the various "Bob's Italy Trip" reports. My visit to Vissani is on a prior Vissani thread that Francesco started several months ago. If you need help, we're all here. Happy dining.

[Ore]

While in Campania, you should check out the area near Avellino and Taurasi. There is great wine to be drunk, and great food to be eaten. Look up:

La Locanda di Bu in Nusco.

La Maschera in Avellino.

The restaurant in the Feudi di San Gregorio winery, called 'Marenna

That whole area is blooming and booming with some amazing food.

Good luck.

In E-R,

For some good 'real' food check out Al Vedel. Sure, I am biased to the place as I have worked there, but if you do dine there, you must ask for a tour of the salumi (Culatello) area. Alberto on Il Forno has links. The wine list is great as well.

Have fun!

[athinaeos]

thank you ore,

i was introduced to Feudi di San Gregorio when i had a bottle of Patrimo 2001

the wine was still very tight, but a potential knockout when it relaxes a bit more

your recommendation adds to my first positive impressions

do you have any views on amerigo (savigno) in E-R?

cheers

[athinaeos]

Robert,

i read your report on the cheaper Gambero Rosso

it looks like a must!

thank you

[albiston]

athinaeos,

do you have any slightly more detailed plans for Campania? I have quite a lot of tips for the region (I'm originally from Napoli), so if you have a special place in mind I could reply in a more detailed way .

[athinaeos]

dear alberto,

many thanks for your feedback!

i have an italian friend in Paris who insists on calling me Salvatore, because she says I remind her of Napoli!

i therefore claim to be a Napolitano, even if it is by the declaration of friendly powers!

going back to the itinerary, i am thinking of staying for three days either in Ravello, or near Paestum "Agriturismo Seliano", or near Melizzano "aAgriturismo Mesogheo"

i plan to visit the eternal sites of Pompei and Paestum

other than than, i have no more fixed commitments

i am thinking of visitng "il torre del saracino" and the "feudi di san gregorio" estate

kindly go ahead and make your recommendations!

cheers

[MMerrill]

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=879868 We stayed at Seliano last March and had a wonderful lunch at Il Papevero in Eboli, described in the above link. Highly recommended! And have you read through this link about Marenna'? http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=768163 We also had dinner at Da Amerigo is Savigno several years ago - and spent the night in one of the rooms they rent. The whole experience was delightful - the little town in the hills, wonderful food, and welcoming staff in the restaurant. Also highly recommended!

Molly

[albiston]

  athinaeos said:

i have an italian friend in Paris who insists on calling me Salvatore, because she says I remind her of Napoli!

i therefore claim to be a Napolitano, even if it is by the declaration of friendly powers!

People always tell me that I don't look or sound Neapolitan at all. Maybe we got mixed up at birth .

  Quote

going back to the itinerary, i am thinking of staying for three days either in Ravello, or near Paestum "Agriturismo Seliano", or near Melizzano "aAgriturismo Mesogheo"

i plan to visit the eternal sites of Pompei and Paestum

In the area there are three nice restaurants/trattorie I would suggest. In Capaccio there's La pergola, which I tried recently and will report about soon, and Nonna Sceppa, which looks like a holiday banquet sort of place -if you know what I mean by that- but is well worth a visit. I did not manage to visit Il Ceppo in Agropoli but Boris_A strongly reccomended it and I trust his judgement. I'd absolutely visit the mozzarella producers named Vannulo (pictures and report coming up too). They're one of the only two producers of organic mozzarella in Italy and their products are fantastic, both mozzarella (in its many forms) and the rich ricotta di bufala. That's so much the case that they only sell directly and there's always a que at the shop. Best to go early. They also organize visits to their facilities.

  Quote

i am thinking of visitng "il torre del saracino" and the "feudi di san gregorio" estate

kindly go ahead and make your recommendations!

cheers

←

Call torre del saracino beforehand, because they should move soon to a new location. In the same area you might also want to consider Taverna del Capitano, and clearly the obvious Don Alfonso. Regarding Feudi: marenna is suppoosed to be nice, but if I had to chose, I'd drive a little bit more till Vallesaccarda and eat at the Oasis restaurant.

Edited September 21, 2005 by albiston (log)

[athinaeos]

thank you molly,

il papevero sounds great!

albiston recommended the oasis as a better choice compared to Feudi's restaurant

i read ore's report, it definitely looks like a nice place but i have to choose between the two

and the amerigo seems like a place to visit!

cheers

[ann]

Since you're clearly into more than just great food, do try to visit Ercolano as well as Pompei - it's smaller and more intimate, and in many ways more enjoyable -- and just 18km away. And here's another vote for Seliano, where the evening meal is a communal affair and fairly basic, but well-prepared with the freshest ingredients and overall a delightful experience. They'll also take you to visit their bufala farm if you're interested.

[Leslie]

  athinaeos said:

do you have any views on amerigo (savigno) in E-R?

←

We found Da Amerigo thoroughly satisfying, with the rusticated dining rooms totally belying the modern kitchen. You will find what we presume to be emilian specialities that we haven't seen elsewhere. I believe that they are only open for dinner on weeknights (we went for Sunday lunch), so recommend a weekend lunch (or an overnight stay at the locanda)--the drive is very pretty once you escape the Bologna dintorni.

Leslie

[athinaeos]

ann,

thank you for making the suggestion

Ercolano is now in the schedule!

in these trips i am always pressed for time and need clear priorities to manage the conflicts

cheers

[athinaeos]

thank you leslie,

your post confirms the overall impression i have from guides and the press

cheers

[athinaeos]

thank you alberto,

one more thing: how about north - northeast of Napoli?

cheers

[albiston]

  athinaeos said:

thank you alberto,

one more thing: how about north - northeast of Napoli?

cheers

←

For food I'd definitely go to La Caveja in Pietravairano, about 60 Km from Naples and easy to reach with the motorway. Not much else to do around there though, but a good choice if you drive northwards, though there's also a couple of very good stops in Lazio if that's on your itinerary.

Instead, if you're planning on seeing more of inland Campania I'd definitely visit the beautiful Sant'Agata dei Goti and once there Mustilli, who make wine but also have a small hotel/restaurant which is not bad. Be sure to ask for a visit of the cellars if you go there, it's worth it.

If youn have any other question, just ask .

[athinaeos]

alberto,

i just had a look, and sant' agata looks very nice!

it is also not one of the mainstream tourist destinations, while it is close enough to napoli!

thanks!

[cmben]

This comes under the heading of a "adventure". This Ristorante is half way between Imola and Dozza, south of Bolana. Off of the Via Emilia some 8 Km out in the country it is actually a adjunct to a prosciutto producer {no, you can't smell the farm}, and is extremely popular with the locals who usually appear in large family groups. To say the place is lively is an understatment.

The menu is made up of "Specialita tipche romagnole" and it doesn't get much better. Pork {suprise}, mushrooms, truffles, regional pastas etc. The wine list, mainly local producers also inculdes some incrediable bargains from all of the northern regions. It is easy to get a great bottle at a great price.

My favorite dish was Stinko. Basically this is what we know as Oso Bucco but here it is pork shank that has been braised in balsamic vinegar and arrives at table with a mahogany glaze of the balsamic that is crisp like a skin. The underling pork is tender and succulent. My wife's favorite was the fresh pasta with chicken livers in wine sauce, again simple and elegant. Over the course of a few weeks we ate our way through a good part of the menu and I can honestly say there wasn't anything, even the odd and unfamilar, dish that we didn't like.

Bar-Ristorante Valsellustra di Bianluca, Via Valsellustra, 16 Tel: 0542-684073