Global Wines

[docsconz]

....

My lasting memory of the wines of Basilicata will not be the beautifully stacked barriques with not a drop of wine split anywhere, nor the new space-age cantina being prepared for future wine-tourists, no doubt searching out those elusive vanilla-flavoured, micro-oxygenated ‘90s’. No, my memories will be of the Lucani people, for whom wine is produced for their family by their family. Wine that is produced with as much care and above all pride, as any of the other wines I saw produced and tasted in this dramatic and often overlooked wine region.

My epiphanic moment came at the family dinner table watching Giuseppe’s father’s gnarled fingers prizing the crown cap off of a bottle last year’s vintage. It was then I was suddenly reminded of Mr Broadbent’s comment during the film “A Standardised Wine.” Yes Sir, I think I agree with you. Maybe now, after 3 years of studying, I’m finally beginning to understand what this wine lark is really all about and long may my journey of discovery continue. Saluté!

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Nice essay, thank you. But if I may, I'll use it as a launching point for something I've been thinking about a great deal - because I have come to believe we are fondling the elephant's trunk and calling it a snake: the problem isn't one of winemaking philosophy - like the gentlemen in your tale, vintners will make what the market demands, little philosophy there; it isn't even a problem with the critics: who among us believes that if Parker started championing old-school Cahors those wines would become popular? I don't.

The problem is simply the workings of an economy of mass consumption, and it has parallels in virtually every facet of our lives. Think of moviemaking, think of literature, automobiles, clothing. In each of these an homogenizing effect follows from the pressures placed on the producers to sell to the widest possible market. Gap, Hollywood, SUVs, Harry Potter, each steamrolling the competition.

But in those as in wine, the solution needn't to be "found", it already exists: quirky, idiosyncratic instances of all of these are widely available. Hundreds of them, in fact. To focus back on wine, look at the hundreds of grapes Italy grows, sangiovese and nebbiolo aside. The NYT ran a piece not long ago on the little culture of weirdd winemaking flourishing in (I think) the Adriatic coast just East of Italy (which former Yugoslav nation is that?).

The problem isn't bringing the wines into being. They're out there, oceans of them, delicious, unique... and unavailable. We know they exist, but we don't know *how* to get them. Because the mass-produced, massively-bought "product" can afford to be massively marketed and universally distributed, but our little guys cannot. So the problem is, first, one of disseminating the information; and second one of physically connecting the curious bibulator with the adventurous winemaker.

And the structures needed for that aren't in place. Not yet, and they may never be. But the *tools* needed are slowly coming into place: the Internet lets us talk to most anybody anywhere; and shipping is becoming *much* faster and less expensive as a retail proposition.

But I'm not sure *we* are ready to put our wallets where our (as the British put it) whingeing is. I know a lot of wine drinkers. 99% of their wine purchases go to what, six grapes? Let's put it this way: riesling is an exotic choice for many. I see a great many odd little bottles of unfamiliar wines gathering dust in local wineshops. The world is awash in the tears of importers who tried to blaze a path and had their wallets brutalized and lightened by an inflexible consumership: them's us, folks. When was the last time you went out and *sought* a new grape, a new region, just because it was new? I haven't nearly often enough, though I will say that I think I try. And I'm sure my excuses for not doing it more are much like yours : "I don't know; and I can't afford it" are foremost.

I have met the enemy, and he isn't Parker. He is us.

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Well said, although one must beware the fashionableness of always seeking out "the latest thing" or newness for its own sake. That would be somewhat ironic in this situation as you are talking about discovering older unique and unusual wines and not necessarily the latest "creation".

[Capaneus]

Well said, although one must beware the fashionableness of always seeking out "the latest thing" or newness for its own sake. That would be somewhat ironic in this situation as you are talking about discovering older unique and unusual wines and not necessarily the latest "creation".

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Personally, I do like seeking out older, overlooked regions or grapes. But I think there's merit in seeking out new wines of whatever kind. The danger lies in finding merit only in novelty, which is something I often see in art critics, who have grown tired of such jejune fare as craft, storytelling, workmanship, and the like.

But if someone tried something *really* new in winemaking, I would like to see serious drinkers give it a sip, and pass judgement. Good *or* bad, up or down. It's about being open, not automatic acceptance.

For the record, I see very little truly new in wine: most often , it's just another appelation making wine "just like they do in Napa/St.Emilion/Super-Tuscany/Barossa/your favorite region". Good places all, with good wines, but imitation is not innovation. Nor is the race to higher extraction and concentration. That seems to me analogous to making movies with more and louder explosions and bigger car chases. Not really new, just... bigger.

[JohnL]

Capaneus--you have made some very good points.

However--your premise is a bit faulty.

first-as to Parker "championing old school Cahors."

I recommend you read his essay on the region in the latest buyer's guide. He covers Cahors quite nicely.

read what he says about the wines made from Ugni Blanc, Gros Mensang (not exactly as popular a grape as merlot)--he loves them.

Want a tip on an "obscure wine? parker recommends the sweet wines from Domaine Cauhope, Domaine Guirouilh, Clos Urolat and Cru Lamurooux.

second--we need a dose of reality.

Right now in most major markets in this country, there are more wines from more places in the world available than at any other time ever.

Add in the internet-and anyone who is looking for an "obscure" wine should be able to find it--if it isn't available now it will be.

There is in New York at the moment a succcessful shop that specializes in wines from the Loire.

I can get "old school" Cahors in any number of locations. (not counting the internet).

The truth is, even in say, France--the French consumer can find wines from Australia and the US on shelves next to the locally produced stuff.

There has never been a better time to be a wine lover --no matter where you live--and it is going to get even better.

Finally, we wine nuts often get a bit blinded by our constant search for new and exciting wine experiences. The more obscure the better! We lose sight of the fact that there are large numbers of people who are perfectly happy with a glass of simple chardonnay (maybe a pinot grigio or a sauvignon blanc for a change of pace).

These folks will try a new wine if recommended and may become fans of that wine or maybe they will stick with the chardonnay.

Well there are more choices for even these people--I am seeing proseco turn up on by the glass lists along with the champaigne--in fact not long ago--there were few choices by the glass anywhere--right now in Manhattan at a popular restaurant Fiamma--one can chose from over a hundred wines from all over Italy all available by the glass or the bottle--most priced around thirty or forty dollars--by the bottle.

Most people will come around to new wines--they will just get there after we do.

So things are not so bleak.

The acopalypse detailed in Mondo Vine-doesn't exist--in reality--only in the minds and fears of short sighted wine makers afraid of competition and progress.

--and knowledgeable consumers!

Rejoice! The Glass is half FULL!!!!!

Edited September 12, 2005 by JohnL (log)

[docsconz]

JohnL, I agree with just about all of what you say, although I get concerned when all these different varietals start to taste the same, like "fruit bombs".There is a greater variety of wine globally available today than yesterday, but there is also a greater amount of wine from various varietals and places that simply taste the same. It is harder to choose a wine that is distinctive. As an example Saturday night at dinner we had two wines, a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a Barbera D'Alba. They were different varietals from different regions, but essentially the same wine.

[JohnL]

JohnL, I agree with just about all of what you say, although I get concerned when all these different varietals start to taste  the same, like "fruit bombs".There is a greater variety of wine globally available today than yesterday, but there is also a greater amount of wine from various varietals and places that simply taste the same. It is harder to choose a wine that is distinctive. As an example Saturday night at dinner we had two wines, a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a Barbera D'Alba. They were different varietals from different regions, but essentially the same wine.

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Even a wine that is vinified to be "fruit driven" should display the characteristics of the grape.

That is the wine should taste like the grape it is made from.

For example, to stick with the Barolo example I cited earlier, if you look at the wines from Scavino which are in the so called modern fruit driven style--they still are distinctly Barolo and display characteristcs of the nebbiolo and the place--terroir. The wines are more fruit than earth (terroir). As a contrast-there are the barolos of G. Conterno which are "old style" wines wherein the terroir hits you over the head-the fruit is less forward.

I enjoy both styles--one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted was the 1970 Monfortino from Conterno and I have had some wonderful wines from Scavino.

The problem with the Conterno wines is the fact that they are difficult to drink young and often need twenty years or so to develop and sometimes the fruit loses out to the tar notes and tannin.

The problem with the Scavino wines is often the fruit takes center stage at the expense of the earthy flavors one gets in the Conterno. when Scavino gets it right though the terroir is definitely there perhaps 'under the fruit". The upside is the Scavino wines are more enjoyable at an earlier age.

In fact, when both these wines are "on" they are superb in their own styles.

The truth seems to be that there are pluses and minuses to wines vinified to be fruit driven and those that are vinified to be more terroir driven. In each case there will be elements of fruit and terroir present in the best examples of each style.

Having said this, I believe that fruit driven wines posses an important advantage. They are easier to drink at much younger ages. They appeal to a broader audience (or potential audience).

It is simply a financial fact of life that a winemaker will benefit from producing these wines than if he (or she) was vinifying wines that required extended cellaring.

I believe that good winemakers can produce fruit driven wines that do exhibit plenty of character and will be complex and interesting, but there will be many wines in this style that lose their "sense of place."

just as the "old style" winemakers will struggle with getting enough fruit presence in their wines to survive the tannins and ageing.

For the time being, the "old style" producers will have a market of connoisseurs--Conterno has few problems selling his wines (at very high prices incidently).

The question is, future generations of Conternos. Will they have a market? One hopes so. as more and more wine lovers emerge more people will see the benefits of a modest cellar and will discover and buy different styles of wine.

Hence in Mondovino you have the Montille family situation. Will the younger Montille's "give in" to the financial pressures or will they make the wine as their fathermakes it?

or, in their case, the best, will they be able to make wines that are a successful compromise--better balancing the fruit and the terroir?

[docsconz]

JohnL, we certainly do not disagree. I enjoy fruit driven wines and agree the best also have a sense of their varietal as well as terroir. The wines I mentioned had neither. It was as if they were the same wine in different bottles with different labels. It is the risk of proliferation of this kind of wine that concerns me. Perhaps if they were labeld as"Internationally styled wines that provide a certain flavor profile" I wouldn't mind so much as they would be predictable and people could choose accordingly. I might even choose them once in awhile! I am not against these modern styles. They absolutely have their place. I would just hate to see a homogenized style of wine push more unique styles off the shelves.

[JohnL]

I agree but I doubt we will ever see the style of the wine on the label.

Who would do that--oversee it?

I certainly would not trust the winemaker--ever read the occasional description on the back label of a bottle of wine? They all read as if the wine is '47 Cheval Blanc! :-)

The government--the EU and/or our BAT are mastrers of confusion as it is now!

Well ya know!

I think we have finally managed to combine/sum up? all the related threads (Mary--is there any kind of eGullet prize Doc and I can share?)

1--Globalism

2--Mondovino

3--Robert Parker

Parker?

I think this is where Parker and others (Tanzer, Robinson, Burghound, Rogov, the wine Spectator et al)

have a place. Also eGullet etc.

There is so much wine from so many places out there and given the ever changing dynamics of the producers and the market place--it is almost impossible to navigate the wine world without enormous sums of disposable income and endless free time. And even then.....

We can certainly debate (endlessly) the merits, or lack of, any and all these folks, but it is the press, the critics etc that can provide immense help and guidance. (Toss in the far to rare-knowledgable and helpful retailer/sales person as well) who can play an important role in guiding and educating wine drinkers at all levels.

We often get lost in debates over scoring systems, point totals, tasting notes and palate preferences losing sight of the potential benefits these folks offer.

For eg--to give Mr Rogov a "plug" he certainly does not need (from me at least) I have recently been interested in learning about and tasting wines from the Middle East--regardless of his personal preferences, scores etc or whether I agree with his assessments or not--his perspective and the information he conveys has enabled me to find my way around --a part of the wine world that has previously been a total mystery to me. I suppose I could have done this on my own but I just don't have the time or money to poke around in the dark --he has at least provided a flashlight if you will. (I have also had a lot of help from a retailer--Eli Hardoff in Tappan NY who carries a lot of Israeli wines and has a passion for the Middle East).

In the end--I think that the wine world is constantly moving--so are our palates (I can provide a long list of wines I loved twenty years ago and now find of little interest). The more information we can access, the better off we are!

There is one absolute that everyone involved with wine--at all levels-- agrees with:

The more one learns about wine, the more one realizes there is so much more to know about it.

and no one will ever know everything there is to know!

Edited September 14, 2005 by JohnL (log)

[docsconz]

Nice summary! I have nothing else to add at this point of the discussion.

[Rebel Rose]

Mary--is there any kind of eGullet prize Doc and I can share?

I hereby bestow upon you both the title of WineDips (Wine Diplomats).

As for levels beyond that, we'll see . . .

The next step would be the confidence to start a conversational grass fire . . .