Sea Urchin

[cabrales]

I had a good sea urchin panna cotta at Artisanal recently. The sea urchin color and taste had been translated effectively into the smoothness of panna cotta. It was unusual that there was an aftertaste of chilli/peppercorn in my throat after the sampling of the item. I wondered what ingredient had caused that effect. I also thought there were very slight hints of lobster taste in the panna cotta for some reason.

It was around 9pm by the time I arrived at the restaurant, and I ordered from the Bar & Late Night Menu (lower prices for smaller or, in some cases, possibly same-size?? portions) while seated in the bar area. The meal at Artisanal overall was average-minus, although my assessment did not reflect a sampling of cheese-based dishes (Gougeres aside) and the items I ordered leaned towards seafood. I knew my ordering (including the sequencing of the dishes) was a bit unusual at the restaurant, but felt like a piece-meal approach.

(1) Three Among Specified Items for $13

-- White anchovies ($6 on bar and late night menu when purchased separately)

-- Octupus with paprika ($6 on bar and late night menu when purchased separately)

-- Gougeres ($6)

(Other selections included Artisanal potato chips, Asparagus tempura, frites with parmesan, escargot pithiviers -- i.e., with pastry very generally, mushroom burgignonne, seaweed salad)

The anchovies were average, as was the octupus which had been cut into small pieces and combined with chickpeas and a dark sauce. The 4-5 Gougeres with gruyere were appropriate.

(2) Sea Urchin Panna Cotta -- Discussed above. The sea urchin item is ordinarily served only as part of the large seafood platter or the small seafood platter (for 2-4 people, at $58), which consists of: lobster, little neck clams, oyster, shrimp, sea urchin (the panna cotta preparation is not specified), ceviche (type not specified), crab and day boat items. However, when I asked the maitre d' whether I could order sea urchins standalone, he gifted me a panna cotta. I also received petits fours, which the bill indicated were normally $6 (?), but which were also comp'd. I have rarely been to a restaurant where petits fours are ordinarily charged to clients.

(3) 1/2 Dozen Kumamotos -- These were appealing -- sweeter than most I Kumamotos I have had.

(4) Crisp Skate Wing, with blood orange Grenobloise and cauliflower ($8.50). Described as being one of Artisanal's "signature dishes" when brought to me, this dish was very poor. The fish, while not of the freshest quality and overcooked, was not stale. A wing of skate had been deep-fried, and then an artificial-tasting, slimy sauce very reminiscent of sweet and sour sauce in Chinese cuisine added (with all respect to Chinese cuisine). The sauce was a reddish/orangish color, like certain sweet and sour sauces, and was too aggressive for the dish as well as plain bad tasting. Blood orange, an ingredient I generally like quite a bit, did not aid the dish. Worse, beneath the skate wing were numerous mini croutons and small bits of raw cauliflower. A misguided dish that I finished less than 1/3 of.

I had two glasses of Chateau Le Sarte, Pessac Leognan 1999 ($8), followed by a glass of Vouvray with the skate.

Items on the bar and late night menu included macaroni and cheese for two ($12), raclette Artisanal (8.50), rabbit au Riesling (12), grilled cheddar and bacon (10). On such menu were also various fondues ($22 for small version for 1-3 persons; varieties included Artisanal Blend; Fontina and White Truffle Oil; Vacherin and Wild Mushroom; add-ons included Kielbasa, beef tips and cracked egg). Items on the main menu included Steak Tartare (19), the Monday daily special of sweetbreads (18), boudin blanc with watercress and mustard vinaigrette ($10/17), fish soup (6.50), the Friday special of bouillabaisse (25) and the Sunday special of coq au vin.

The by-the-glass selection of French whites was quite good. Items I wanted to sample included Beaujolais Blanc, Clos de Loyse (?), Chateau des Jacques 2000, and Menetou-Salon from Pascal Jolivet.

I may return in time to sample the Organic chicken cooked under a brick, with pommes aligot (potato dish) and sherry vinegar ($19.50) or the Wednesday special of Poulet en croute de sel (chicken in a salt crust). However, my first visit does not leave me with a positive take on Artisanal's cuisine (leaving aside cheese-based dishes which I did not sample). Nonetheless, the sea urchin panna cotta was unusual.

[cabrales]

Sea urchin at Nobu does not quite comport with this thread's title regarding non-Japanese restaurants. However, I did have uni tempura at Nobu, NY, recently. It was my visiting family members' turn to pick a restaurant for dinner, after I had selected a meal at Blue Hill. One of my family members used to like to go to Nobu, and noted that dinner prices have declined by approx. 10-20% since she last visited. I have no ability to verify that.

The uni tempura is priced at between $5-10, and one order represents one fair-sized piece of uni wrapped in a shiso (or other mint) leaf. The resulting bundle was deep-fried like other tempura items, and served with a piece of okra, also deep-fried. While this was an unusual preparation for uni, I'd have to admit that I did not find the sampling of the urchin aided in this dish.

Separately, from a meal a while ago, sea urchin veloute at ADNY had also been sampled. A warm temperature to the veloute, and the pouring of it over sea urchin sections at the table. Not poor.

[Liza]

Cabby,

I just got a copy of a magazine devoted to Spanish food and wine, and noted there's an article (and recipes) on sea urchin. Haven't cracked it further than that, but will let you know what discoveries lay within.

[southern girl]

There is also a vert tasty sea urchin panna cotta with sea gelee (a nice sea brine flavored aspic) at Picholine.

[vivin]

My friend had angel hair with sea urchin/green chilli sauce (a special) at Babbo a few months ago. It was yummy.

[cabrales]

In the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts (Fall/Winter Menu Preview), there is a description of Anita Lo (Annisa)'s entree of Chatham Sea Scallops with Maine Sea Urchin, Bacon and Mustard [Greens?] Ragout. Here is Lo's description: "For the ragout, start with a beurre fondue composed of lobster stock and butter. Add sea urchin roe, lardons and Chinese mustard greens. Simmer and add lemon juice and chives at the end. Saute sea scallops and serve with the ragout and a loose potato puree made from German butterballs or fingerlins and lots of butter." This dish, I hope, will be in my tummy during 3Q 2002

[LaNiña]

And Cabby, we have to try that sea urchin pasta dish at Basta Pasta...

[cabrales]

Nina -- Yes. Perhaps we could try the AZ and the BP sea urchin dishes during the same evening by sharing the BP dish and then having the sea urchin dish at the AZ bar area, later this year.

[LaNiña]

Nina -- Yes. Perhaps we could try the AZ and the BP sea urchin dishes during the same evening by sharing the BP dish and then having the sea urchin dish at the AZ bar area, later this year.

Mahvelous.

[cabrales]

Nina, her beau and I attended an Armagnac tasting at D'Artagnan early this evening. The Armagnac furnished was so-so, although one from the 1970s had nice caramelised scents on the nose and tasted fine. It was preferable to a bottle from the 1950s. The tasting was $15/person, which was not a bad deal. We were served mini baguette-based sandwich pieces filled with (1) a small piece of saucisson atop a bit of truffled butter, and (2) a terrine with mushroom components. Also served to us as a nice-tasting piece of confit of quail egg, with mashed French white beans smeared below it.

I tried to visit the restaurant reported on recently by Nina and Simon M. However, the place was relatively busy even at the sushi bar, and I proceeded to Sushi Yasuda. I was fortunately placed right adjacent to Chef Yasuda.

Two pieces of luscious, fatty O-Toro opened my meal. A nice presentation of both the cheek area and regular O-Toro (priced the same). Then: a $22-27 item from the menu of five selections of sashimi. I ordered fluke, squid, Spanish mackerel, orange clam and a white fish as part of this selection (good quantities for this part of the meal). Then, sashimi: abalone; geso (squids' legs); giant clam (excellent tonight); and four orders of sashimi of uni (served with a bit of lemon) I really enjoyed the uni.

Currently, John Dory looks good (unsampled, as St Pierre is commonly offered in France). Also, there is a special seasonal product called myoga (spelling unclear), a vegetable which has tastes of ginger and a scallion-like consistency.

From the special appetizers menu, I ordered a tofu made of codfish roe. Chef Yasuda noted he created this dish. It tasted very soft, almost like custard, and had slight sweetness (very limited). The codfish roe taste was not discernible in the tofu. A ponzu sauce accompanied the tofu, appropriate, but not remedying the intrinsic mediocre nature of the tofu. Mochi, green tea flavor, finished the meal. I like the mattness and bitterness of the dry green tea powder liberally found on the plate.

Overall, a good-to-very-good meal. With an order of sake, $120 with tips and tax included.

[southern girl]

Cabrales...I do not know if you have been to Jewel Bako...if you have...which do you prefer...Sushi Yasuda or JB? I have not been to SY...but I have had Santa Barbara Uni still in the shell at JB...and really enjoyed it and the rest of the sushi/sashimi and other dishes there.

[cabrales]

I've been to Jewel Bako twice, but have only had sea urchin there embedded in a Chawanmusi dish. I prefer JB because of its composed "appetizer" (i.e., pre-sushi or sashimi) dishes.