Arles

[Freckles]

Going to Arles. What should I see? Where shall I eat, please?

[cindyr]

Going to Arles.  What should I see?  Where shall I eat, please?

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How lucky you are to be visiting one of the best cities in France! Go for the Roman ruins, Van Gogh (pronounced van gog) and perhaps a bullfight. There is a pass you buy at the tourist office that gives you access to the Roman arena, theater, forum, circus, baths and to one or two museums. Everything can be seen on foot, including the space where the painter was once interned. Here there is a famous garden and a nice cafe where you can seek solace from the sun. As for the food, I was sick there - le sel de camargue makes for a great gargle.

[zeitoun]

Do not miss the countryside! The Camargue region is absolutely splendid.. Some places I recommend are Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, Aigues Mortes and Saint Gilles du Gard.

As for food, I can't help much since my last visit to the region dates back to 1990 I think, I was still a young lad then. My Pops was footing the bill, so he picked all the restaurants

This website though will give you an idea on the region's various food specialties.

[Carlsbad]

He had a delightful dinner last summer at La Gueule du Loup, 39 rue des Arènes, a short distance from the Place du Forum. The set menu was about 25€ as I recall. The upstairs dining room is intimate, but comfortable, and the food was excellent.

The Hotel Nord-Pinus on the Place du Forum is a great little hotel, and hopefully by now, they have their restaurant open again. When we stayed there last summer, the chef had quit suddenly, and they were looking to replace him. By the way, driving in the old center of Arles is not recommended for the faint of heart.

[Poppy Quince]

Going to Arles.  What should I see?  Where shall I eat, please?

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The Abbaye de Montmajour is a couple of miles outside Arles on the road to Fontvielle. This is a spectacular ruined abbey that's on the UNESCO list of sites. If you look carefully on the walls of the cloister you will see incised drawings of ships alleged to be made by sailors visiting the abbey when the area was still accessible by water.

http://www.monum.fr/visitez/decouvrir/fich...l?lang=fr&id=88

I recall spending a sunny lunchtime on the terrasse of the café just across the road. Nothing remarkable about the food, but a true Provençal moment.

[menton1]

Just about 10 miles up the road from Arles is Oustau de Baumaniere an institution for over 40 years. The original owner, Raymond Thulier, is gone now, but it has been passed down to the capable hands of his grandson, Jean-Andre Chariol. The garden setting where dinner is served is spectacular, with the cliffs of Les Baux as a backdrop. Its also a lovely place to stay-- rooms will be less costly for one night than dinner.

http://www.oustaudebaumaniere.com/

Edited July 8, 2005 by menton1 (log)

[zeitoun]

Just about 10 miles up the road from Arles is Oustau de Baumaniere an institution for over 40 years.  The original owner, Raymond Thulier, is gone now, but it has been passed down to the capable hands of his grandson, Jean-Andre Chariol.  The garden setting where dinner is served is spectacular, with the cliffs of Les Baux as a backdrop.  Its also a lovely place to stay-- rooms will be less costly for one night than dinner.

http://www.oustaudebaumaniere.com/

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Good thing you mentionned it, I am planning a trip to the area for sometime in the fall (most likely Avignon), I am considering dinner at L'Oustau one night. Have you been recently? Given there 2 star rating, what is the food like? Somehow still "provencal" or a little more modern/upscale?

[menton1]

Good thing you mentionned it, I am planning a trip to the area for sometime in the fall (most likely Avignon), I am considering dinner at L'Oustau one night. Have you been recently? Given there 2 star rating, what is the food like? Somehow still "provencal" or a little more modern/upscale?

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It's kind of both. Menu changes seasonally, check the web site above. It will be a magnificent experience, anyway. Another great place in the area, a little friendlier on the wallet is La Regalido in Fontvieille. Also a Hotel-Restaurant, this is a restored olive mill.

http://www.laregalido-provence.com/defaut.htm

[Kate Hill]

Going to Arles.  What should I see?  Where shall I eat, please?

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I like the honest and gutsy cooking at

La Charcuterie, 51, Rue des Arènes - and the Nord Pinus for a drink and peek at Peter Beard's great photos of Africa and Isak Dinesan- a fantasy hotel.

Definitely drive to Le Sambuc in Camargue country to eat at La Chassagnette. Jean-Luc Rabanel has beeing making food magic from a small organic garden in this strange landscape. He was a local Garonne Valley boy made good and we miss him.

and for a great view of Arles at home on the Rhone, La Peniche across the river... says Capt' Kate

[Poppy Quince]

Patricia Wells' very recent review of La Chassagnette:

http://www.iht.com/articles/2005/07/07/travel/TRFOOD.php

[cigalechanta]

You must make a trip to the Camargue to dine at La Chassagnette, an organic farm/resto on the D 36 and I forget where to turn(i don't drive) A special place.

The other is Chez juju if it is still there on the beach. Last year the goverment reclaimed the beach and burned down the squatters shacks. I hope it's still there if anyone knows. You pick your fish from a tank, it's weighed and cooked on the open fire.

[cigalechanta]

I just read the review you posted, before me, what a difference I have experienced when twice there. I love the place, service was great, food wonderful.

[cigalechanta]

The oustou is still good cooking. La chassagnette is not filled with over 80s, more like younger lovers on my two visits or curious food lovers.

Menton, I want to go back this year to the Le Jardin de Quai in Isle =sur-La-Sorgue. Has the food improved under the new chef?

[Carlsbad]

Last summer, we stayed at La Cabro d'Or, a one-star little sister to Oustau de Baumaniere, and right next door. We had been there in 1989, and it was even better this time. The hotel is gorgeous, and quite reasonably priced. Dinner on the terrace was magical. The food was outstanding, and to watch the sun reflecting against Le Baux while the sounds of nature are all around is about as good as it gets. You can see the menu and details here. While we were there, I looked again at the Oustau, and was glad we were where we were.

I agree with Kate Hill, the Nord Pinus is a fantasy hotel. The intimate bar is almost perfect, and if it's too hot, you can have a drink (perhaps some of the thyme-flavored fire water) outside in the front, on the Place du Forum. The women who run the hotel are very welcoming, professional, and helpful.

There is so much to see in the area. Don't miss, in addition to what has been discussed, Nimes, Le Baux, St-Remy, the Pont du Gard, Avignon.....

[JudyB]

Good thing you mentionned it, I am planning a trip to the area for sometime in the fall (most likely Avignon), I am considering dinner at L'Oustau one night. Have you been recently? Given there 2 star rating, what is the food like? Somehow still "provencal" or a little more modern/upscale?

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If you're going to Avignon I would most definitely recommend going to Restaurant Christian Etienne. We have had the excellent "Menu Tomates" a couple of times now. See Duncan's Christian Etienne write up from a couple of years ago, or the restaurant's own website.

[zeitoun]

Good thing you mentionned it, I am planning a trip to the area for sometime in the fall (most likely Avignon), I am considering dinner at L'Oustau one night. Have you been recently? Given there 2 star rating, what is the food like? Somehow still "provencal" or a little more modern/upscale?

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If you're going to Avignon I would most definitely recommend going to Restaurant Christian Etienne. We have had the excellent "Menu Tomates" a couple of times now. See Duncan's Christian Etienne write up from a couple of years ago, or the restaurant's own website.

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Thanks for the heads up, i'll keep it in mind..

[John Talbott]

FYI, the Aug-Sept Saveur, the US one, has an article on Nimes (32 km away but hey....) in which it recommends Les Amis de Pablo Romero, Le Bistrot "Au Chapon Fin," and a restaurant wine bar Chez Michel.

[Poppy Quince]

FYI, the Aug-Sept Saveur, the US one, has an article on Nimes (32 km away but hey....) in which it recommends Les Amis de Pablo Romero, Le Bistrot "Au Chapon Fin," and a restaurant wine bar Chez Michel.

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Great timing; we'll be in Nîmes in September. I'll look for the Saveur issue tomorrow. Thanks!

[cigalechanta]

In Arles, there's a wonderful restaurant filled with locals called L'Affenage

[Freckles]

Sadly, since I was there only Sunday and Monday nights, most restaurants were closed. We did dine at a casual Italian place called Palao, recommended by our hotel. The food was simple but very tasty. The service, on the other hand, was appalling. It took them more than an hour to take our order! And the restaurant wasn't even full. When we tried to order risotto, which we had heard was the house speciality, the waitress pointed to the half-empty restaurant and said, "let me be frank. We're too busy with the full restaurant, so we really don't have time to cook this for you." Whatever...

[Poppy Quince]

FYI, the Aug-Sept Saveur, the US one, has an article on Nimes (32 km away but hey....) in which it recommends Les Amis de Pablo Romero, Le Bistrot "Au Chapon Fin," and a restaurant wine bar Chez Michel.

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Great timing; we'll be in Nîmes in September. I'll look for the Saveur issue tomorrow. Thanks!

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I picked up a copy of Saveur and found that the article was about the Feria des Vendanges, an annual event that will be occuring when we're there in September. We didn't know about it when we made our arrangements and didn't know what to expect, so this is serendipitous.

Thanks again for the heads up, John.

[Brenda]

I just got back from Arles. Stayed at the Nord Pinus - great hotel - very unusual. A drink there is a must. We also ate there one night - good simple food -pasta, tuna tartare etc.

We ate good pizzas at Estaminet (in the Place du Forum). Also, try the ice cream at Le Soleilis (Rue Dr. Fanton). The cinnamon, apricot, and bitter almond flavours are to die for.

We also ate at a neat little place - can't remember the name - "Tarte, Vin, et Cie" perhaps - it's at the end of the Rue des Suisses where it meets Rue Doisneau. Delicious grilled rabbit and pommes dauphinois. The quirky owner was very charming as well - She brought us organic sparkling wine from a little vineyard (gratis) for my husband's birthday.

Drink lots of rose. Have fun

[dellis453]

You must make a trip to the Camargue to dine at La Chassagnette, an organic farm/resto on the D 36  and I forget where to turn(i don't drive) A special place.

The other is Chez juju if it is still there on the beach. Last year the goverment reclaimed the beach and burned down the squatters shacks. I hope it's still there if anyone knows. You pick your fish from a tank, it's weighed and cooked on the open fire.

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How long is it since you visited? I had the most disappointing meal there ever.

It was pretty empty(being Monday) Taureau (bull) was on the menu. After a discussion with the waiter, I decided to tryit. Now to be asked how I wanted the meat cooked (medium rare), I thought it would be pretty tender.

We asked the wine waiter to bring us a glass of wine as we were driving, he eventually plonked it on the table without saying what it was. Ok that can be forgiven.

What cannot be forgiven is the meat that was served to me. Each bit had chewy gristle,and to cap it all there was a hard piece of bone/fat served on the plate. I complained. Nothing happenend. Eventually yet another waiter came along and asked if everything was OK. I said no I had made a complaint.

Eventually the chef,Arman Arnal who was trained under Alain Ducasse (!) came to the table to tell me that the meat should be like that as is organic!

At that point we curtailed our meal and left. My husband obsevered a German couple close to us who seemed to be having similar problems.

It may still have a wonderful vegetable garden, but I guess they think they can serve anything up to tourists. It is longer under the watchful eye of Jean Luc Rabanel!!