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Yukon River King Salmon


Brad Ballinger

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I picked up a fillet of Yukon River King Salmon last night. This is line caught salmon from the mouth of the Yukon on their way upstream to spawn. The journey upstream is 2000 miles, so these fish store up a lot of fat for the trip. The oil content of these fish is around 30 percent, and the fish are very high in Omega-3 fatty acids. Incidentally, the salmon that travel up the Copper River only have to make a 300 mile journey.

You need to do nothing to this fish other than a film of EVOO, some sea salt, and cracked pepper. I was going to grill it, but the weather wasn't cooperating, so I opted for pan searing. The flavor is unbelievably rich, and the texture luscious.

It doesn't come cheap ($21.99/pound in my market), but it is only one time a year.

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

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I had some for the first time a couple of nights ago. This is indeed the best salmon I have ever tasted. We brushed it with a little hazelnut oil, sprinkled it with salt and pepper and grilled it. The layers came off in nice moist chunks and felt almost creamy on the tongue. I plan to have it at least once again before the season is out.

Practice Random Acts of Toasting

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I haven't had the luck to find any for sale here, but I have had the opportunity to eat Yukon salmon in Alaska a couple years ago. It is definately worth it. The fat content is noticeable higher than other wild Pacific salmon I've tasted. The mouth of the Yukon River is significantly further north, and colder than most salmon fisheries, and like fat people in winter, salmon also protect themselves with fat. Delicious fat. Plus, they think they need all that energy for the long journey ahead.

It was funny, because when we started the trip further south in Homer, mny people said that they prefered the typical farmed Atlantic salmon because it was jucier (fattier), but the Yukon salmon combines the flavor of the wild salmon with the rich fattiness we all crave. The fatty acid that is good for you, that is.

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I haven't ever thought of adding any kind of oil because it renders so much of it's own fat while it's cooking. Do you recommend adding a small amount of oil? I might give that a try.

I stick it under a roaring broiler for a few minutes, then I turn the oven off and let it sit for another five or so. This seems to seal in the juices and crisp up the skin, while leaving the center the way I like it; barely cooked, almost gelatinous. Like fat custard.

I once marinated some in my usual salmon marinade of soy sauce, maple syrup, rice vinegar (the merest drop), water and scallions, but it was a complete waste of time; the fish is perfect on its own, plus salt.

This is my first time out of the States during YRKS season and I'm sad to miss it, but when it's around I eat it as often as I can. It's so good that I try not to worry about justifying the cost to myself. And it's so rich that I'm happy with less than a half-pound serving. Normally I'll eat a lot more salmon in one go.

And when the flesh is all gone, I eat the skin.

Edited by Verjuice (log)
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I haven't ever thought of adding any kind of oil because it renders so much of it's own fat while it's cooking. Do you recommend adding a small amount of oil? I might give that a try.

For a one pound fillet, split in half, I used less that one teaspoon of olive oil. I also seared in a dry, hot skillet.

I like the center the same way -- it's like butter.

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

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I haven't ever thought of adding any kind of oil because it renders so much of it's own fat while it's cooking. Do you recommend adding a small amount of oil? I might give that a try.

For a one pound fillet, split in half, I used less that one teaspoon of olive oil. I also seared in a dry, hot skillet.

We also used less than a teaspoon of hazelnut oil for ours. It probably didn't need it, but we wanted to ensure it didn't stick to the grill.

Practice Random Acts of Toasting

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for the first salmon of the year, particularly a great fish, try this: lightly oil a baking sheet and put the salmon on it, lightly salted. heat the oven to 300, place the rack in the lower 1/3 and place a baking pan under it. Bring a pot of water to the boil. When the water is boiling, pour it into the baking pan. Put the baking sheet in the oven and close the door. cook for about 25 minutes (keep an eye, when you see collagen start to break on the surface, it's done). Remove it from the oven and using a pastry brush dipped in oil, fleck away any collagen.

this (which i learned from paula wolfert) makes the most amazing, pure salmon you've ever had. the color hardly changes at all and the texture is simply melting. i usually serve it with a little bit of tarragon mayonnaise (on the side!) and a cucumber salad.

blatant self-promotion: this recipe from "french fry" was included in best recipes of the year whatever year that was.

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I also vouch by a paula wolfert recipe for perfect salmon, but it is a different one -

i can't remember specifics, but you basically heat up a pot of olive oil (enough to cover the salmon completely) to around 325, infuse the oil with a little garlic and some herbs of choice, and you poach the salmon in the oil.

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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