The Ethics of Mentioning Friends

[TAPrice]

I was struck by this particular paragraph in Patricia Wells' group review of Hong Kong restaurants in the NYT (originally printed in the Times owned IHT):

http://www.nytimes.com/iht/2005/05/26/dini...T-26trfood.html

"Sitting there, drinking a very crisp and very chilled French Chardonnay from the south of France, we feasted on some spectacular and super spicy fare: The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the best razor clams I have ever tasted, except at the hands of the chef Joël Robuchon. They were moist, meaty, festive and fun to eat, whole morsels of protein and density."

Wells has written a book with Robuchon in the past. Should she have disclosed this connection? Is this any different than Amanda Hesser's transgression of dreaming about Jean Georges while reviewing another restaurant? Does it make a difference that Hesser used a comparison to damn a restaurant while Wells uses it to praise a dish?

I'm posting this not as an accusation, but because I would be curious to hear how other people see the ethical issue. Every food writer no doubt has many friends in the food world. Is full disclosure of that relationship necessary every time a name is mentioned? Do the ethical issues play out differently in reviews and features?

[touaregsand]

Maybe I'm not reading enough into it. But it sounds to me like she is mentioning who prepared the best razor clams she ever had. If she mentioned her connection to him and the book that would be more of a direct plug I would think.

[TAPrice]

I don't think she is plugging the book (for all I know, it's out of print).

It's more a question of when a writer should acknowledge potential conflicts when making subjective judgments.

Personally, I'm not even sure if this is an ethical lapse. That's why I'm asking the question. On the face of it, though, it seems parallel to the lapse that caused Hesser such grief: the gratuitous mention of friend in the review of another chef's restaurant.

As I asked before, it may be entirely different that Wells praised with the comparison while Hesser damned. I suspect that nearly any chef would be happy to play second fiddle to Robuchon.

Would either of these versions dramatically change the sense:

1) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the best razor clams I have ever tasted, except at the hands of the chef Joël Robuchon (full disclosure, I once wrote a book with Robuchon).

2) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the second best razor clams I have ever tasted in my entire life.

I know, this is starting to sound like a college philosophy course.

Edited May 31, 2005 by TAPrice (log)

[Badiane]

this is irrelevant, but for those of you that own a copy of the Patricia Wells book on Robuchon, have a look at the picture of the pineapple dessert....there is a giant hair on the plate! Entertains me to no end, that does!

[touaregsand]

Would either of these versions dramatically change the sense:

1) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the best razor clams I have ever tasted, except at the hands of the chef Joël Robuchon (full disclosure, I once wrote a book with Robuchon).

2) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the second best razor clams I have ever tasted in my entire life.

I know, this is starting to sound like a college philosophy course.

I need a joint.

I don't think it's an ethical lapse in the article.

3) The razor clams were great, but for some reason I mention Robuchon which has nothing to do with the restaurant and he is not even a dining companion.

a) I am name dropping to show my level of dining experience

b) I am name dropping to mention a famous chef I know, a little plug.

c) I wasn't really thinking about the implications of all this. The razor clams were so good that it reminded me of the best and who prepared them.

d) The chef is no Robuchon

e)____________________________

f) ______________________________

g)_________________________________

[russ parsons]

first, hesser was not criticized for mentioning a "friend's" restaurant; she was criticized for mentioning a restaurant owned by someone who had once blurbed one of her books. right or wrong, let's get the facts straight.

second, what would have been the preferred construction for ms. wells' sentence? "except at the hands of the chef Joël Robuchon, with whom I wrote the book "Simply French." now, that sounds a whole lot more objectionable to me.

rather, what i found grating was the needless name-dropping in the first place. what did robuchon have to do with the story? why mention him at all? it would have been far more elegant just to say "among the best i've ever tasted" and leave it at that.

[aprilmei]

If she really had been trying to "plug" Robuchon (and I'm not saying that was her intention) then why didn't she mention Robuchon a Galera, his restaurant in Macau?

[Bux]

. . . .

It's more a question of when a writer should acknowledge potential conflicts when making subjective judgments.

Personally, I'm not even sure if this is an ethical lapse. That's why I'm asking the question. On the face of it, though, it seems parallel to the lapse that caused Hesser such grief: the gratuitous mention of friend in the review of another chef's restaurant.

As I asked before, it may be entirely different that Wells praised with the comparison while Hesser damned. I suspect that nearly any chef would be happy to play second fiddle to Robuchon.

Would either of these versions dramatically change the sense:

1) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the best razor clams I have ever tasted, except at the hands of the chef Joël Robuchon (full disclosure, I once wrote a book with Robuchon).

2) The two best dishes of the evening were a first course dish of razor clams in a spicy sauce, the second best razor clams I have ever tasted in my entire life.

I know, this is starting to sound like a college philosophy course.

←

I don't see the potential conflict. I don't see an ethical lapse. As for your two potential versions, the first should be seen as a conflict of interest and the second is far more condescending to the restaurant at hand. Robuchon was pretty well acknowledged as the best chef in the world at his peak of influence. Her relationship to him is incidental in the way she mentions his name. Robuchon was so far above the fray of "who's the best chef" that being second to him at his peak is far less of a second best situation than your number two version where it seems a mere mortal might serve better razor clams.

I agree with Russ that there's no comparison to the way Hesser mentioned Jean-Georges in the review of Asiate in the NY Times. I am less inclined to find the name dropping objectionable. It's unnecessary, but given Wells' connection to Robuchon and his legendary status, I can understand the implication in her mind. I also happen to believe that most people who read the article in the NY Times or the IHT are going to know and understand both the nature of her relationship to Robuchon and his place in the pantheon of chefs and read the reference to mean only god could serve better razor clams. Those people who don't know or understand that relationship aren't really serious about food, or need to do some reading. To object on the basis that not everyone can be expected to know that at one point in her already established career, she tied herself to Robuchon, would be to call for a dumbing down of all criticism and reporting. There are limits to the need for disclosure.

[Daniel]

I dont think a person has an ethical responsibility to disclose his relationship to a particular place unless its financial. Its established that a proper reviewer will not be swayed personally, its simply business.

In Hesser's case, she was tied into Jean George financially.. You think his good word might have helped sell books.. There is also the possible motivation for her to think she might receive fuiture endorsements if the relationship stays on good terms.

[touaregsand]

I dont think a person has an ethical responsibility to disclose his relationship to a particular place unless its financial. Its established that a proper reviewer will not be swayed personally, its simply business. 

  In Hesser's case, she was tied into Jean George financially.. You think his good word might have helped sell books.. There is also the possible motivation for her to think she might receive fuiture endorsements if the relationship stays on good terms.

←

How is she tied to him financially?

[Daniel]

I explained that she had gained from him writing in her book, and the implication that he would agian help her in future books.. So book sales is a financial motivation, no?

[TAPrice]

Thanks for the responses. As a gut feeling, Wells' statement just didn't seem to be as problematic, but I couldn't put my finger on why that was.

Bux, I guess what you're saying is that part of Wells' authority derives from her close association with Robuchon. It would be odd for her not to draw on that while evaluating other chefs. That makes sense. It's the context of Wells' experience that makes all the difference.

[touaregsand]

I explained that she had gained from him writing in her book, and the implication that he would agian help her in future books.. So book sales is a financial motivation, no?

←

I haven't read the Hesser article so I don't know the context in which it was mentioned.

If they have a relationship to begin with I don't see why she would find it neccessary to constantly 'plug' him to maintain that relationship. Or that he would demand it of her. Where's the implication she needs him to help her with future books? Simply because they worked together before? Or has a project been announced?

she was tied into Jean George financially

is an overstatement, no?

[Daniel]

I explained that she had gained from him writing in her book, and the implication that he would agian help her in future books.. So book sales is a financial motivation, no?

←

she was tied into Jean George financially

is an overstatement, no?

←

If you think that its not a benefit to have one of most respected and wildly popular chefs ever to give you an endorsement and to have his name on the jacket, you are being naive.. His name will automatically give whatever he endorse instant credibility and respect.

Edited June 2, 2005 by Daniel (log)

[TAPrice]

Edited to be erased: I read the last reply too quickly and missed the context.

Edited June 2, 2005 by TAPrice (log)

[touaregsand]

I explained that she had gained from him writing in her book, and the implication that he would agian help her in future books.. So book sales is a financial motivation, no?

←

she was tied into Jean George financially

is an overstatement, no?

←

If you think that its not a benefit to have one of most respected and wildly popular chefs ever to give you an endorsement and to have his name on the jacket, you are being naive.. His name will automatically give whatever he endorse instant credibility and respect.

←

Did I say endorsements don't help sell books? They don't magically turn books into bestsellers, by the way.

Also, I highly doubt that she has to keep plugging him in order to maintain a positive relationship.

[Daniel]

I explained that she had gained from him writing in her book, and the implication that he would agian help her in future books.. So book sales is a financial motivation, no?

←

she was tied into Jean George financially

is an overstatement, no?

←

If you think that its not a benefit to have one of most respected and wildly popular chefs ever to give you an endorsement and to have his name on the jacket, you are being naive.. His name will automatically give whatever he endorse instant credibility and respect.

←

Did I say endorsements don't help sell books? They don't magically turn books into bestsellers, by the way.

Also, I highly doubt that she has to keep plugging him in order to maintain a positive relationship.

←

No .you asked if it was an overstatement to say they were tied financially.. I have well proven the point that there was a financial tie..

Now, wether or not you think she continue plugging him or not is irrelevant.. What proof do you base this on other then the evidence of her bias. I can tell you that she acted extremely unproffesional in her mentioning him in a review of another restaurant.. And you can say she is either retarded or bias in her awarding of three stars to Spice Market..

Edited June 2, 2005 by Daniel (log)

[touaregsand]

No .you asked if it was an overstatement to say they were tied financially.. I have well proven the point that there was a financial tie..

The question was rhetorical.

I have well proven the point that there was a financial tie..

A financial tie implies more than a glowing blurb which won't automatically add to the sales of her book significantly. Who was it that said, "it's not the royalties. it's the advance you get." I recall it was a pretty famous food writer.

If Hesser is an investor in the restaurant I would call that a financial tie.

You're assumptions are different than mine and we are not making the same connections. Let's leave it at that.

EDIT: Her capacity as a writer at the time she wrote the article calls the mention into question, IMO, more than simply plugging J.G.V..

Edited June 2, 2005 by touaregsand (log)

[Daniel]

I think you are the one assuming, I cant believe you are going to argue that an endorsement by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the most popular chef's and restaurantaurs in the World, wouldnt not help a author make sales.. Its a fact that the endorsements are on the jacket cover, its a fact that they do promote sales..

Wether or not you think she did it to win his favor is up for debate, but you must concede the impact of his reviews to the sale of her book and her reputation.

[touaregsand]

I think you are the one assuming, I cant believe you are going to argue that an endorsement by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the most popular chef's and restaurantaurs in the World, wouldnt not help a author make sales..  Its a fact that the endorsements are on the jacket cover, its a fact that they do promote sales..

Wether or not you think she did it to win his favor is up for debate, but you must concede the impact of his reviews to the sale of her book and her reputation.

←

Where did I argue that it would not help? I argued that the degree it would help is arguable.

[Daniel]

I think you are the one assuming, I cant believe you are going to argue that an endorsement by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the most popular chef's and restaurantaurs in the World, wouldnt not help a author make sales..  Its a fact that the endorsements are on the jacket cover, its a fact that they do promote sales..

Wether or not you think she did it to win his favor is up for debate, but you must concede the impact of his reviews to the sale of her book and her reputation.

←

Where did I argue that it would not help? I argued that the degree it would help is arguable.

←

Ok so now you understand that they are financially tied.. Now you are on to questioning how financially tied.. I really dont know the answer to that..

[touaregsand]

I think you are the one assuming, I cant believe you are going to argue that an endorsement by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the most popular chef's and restaurantaurs in the World, wouldnt not help a author make sales..  Its a fact that the endorsements are on the jacket cover, its a fact that they do promote sales..

Wether or not you think she did it to win his favor is up for debate, but you must concede the impact of his reviews to the sale of her book and her reputation.

←

Where did I argue that it would not help? I argued that the degree it would help is arguable.

←

Ok so now you understand that they are financially tied.. Now you are on to questioning how financially tied.. I really dont know the answer to that..

←

No, I still think 'financially tied" is an overstatement. Maybe his endorsement will help sell 50 more books. Not a huge royalty windfall.

Even bestselling authors write sales losers.

[slkinsey]

Daniel and touaregsand, let's try to keep this on topic and not try to nitpick each other.

The premise that Hesser had some kind of substantial financial entanglement with Vongerichten because he blurbed her book is absurd. It's not like she's one of the backers for Spice Market, or that they are working together on a new cookbook. People blurb books all the time as a matter of professional courtesy. To suggest that there is a quid pro quo relationship over a book blurb because of the dollar value that blurb brings to the table strains credulity.

Now, there may be valid reasons for Hesser to have disclosed her relationship with Vongerichten. One could make the argument that she should have disclosed the fact that he blurbed her book. I'm not making those arguments, I'm just pointing out that they don't have to do with whether Hesser is profiting in any financial way from Vongerichten's blurb on her book cover. More to the point, going back and forth over this very minute point is not contributing to the dialogue on this topic of discussion.

[JohnL]

I think the real point is: critics need to exercise care when they make comparisons or references.

The real problem with Hesser's reference to JGV is that it was poorly chosen to begin with regardless of any "ties" financial or otherwise (she could have been dating him secretly for all we know).

The fact is her reference was a cheap shot at the restaurant she was reviewing and was out of left field so to speak.

It did little to advance her point. (it was literary name dropping to show she is savvy).

This is the real problem with Hesser and her ilk--their work is burdened with their egos and attitudes--they are trying to be hip.

[JohnL]

ps

To get back to Wells. Her reference to Robuchon was marginally ethical-- I think.

She was obviously using him as a reference point.

This too is akin to name dropping to a lesser degree than Hesser because it is more germain to the review she is writing.

However-I wish she would have elaborated a bit as to why those razor clams are slightly better at Robuchon instead of assuming we all know what Robuchon's clams are like!