Michel Bras, Laguiole

[Matthew Grant]

A slightly overindulged Rachel battled gamely on our eating extravaganza weekend and was persuaded to attempt the "Decouverte & nature" tasting menu. After watching the sunset from our room we were unable to start in the reception area whcih was full up and we had to move straight on to our table in the middle of the dining room by the Window, the first time in 3 attempts despite requests everytime, I'm not sure on what basis they are allocated. The same amuse followed as before, it would be nice if they could be varied slightly, a couple of the spoons were different the best of which was a crab mousse, another of beef consume was incredibly salty and should not have been leaving the kitchen.

Gargouillou in a smaller portion seemed far better with more purees this time and adding a complimentary note to the dish.

Le Turbot poele aux agrumes & aux Capres assaisonne de pomme-celeri-gingembre;oseille de Guinee & keffir. Quite simply stunning. Words cannot describe how good this dish was. The most perfect piece of Turbot with citrus and capers, accompanied by a small dice of apple ginger (?) and celery and keffir. The single guinee leaf (red sorrel?) added and interesting sour note.

We substituted the Foie Gras dish, previously I wasn't so impressed and I'm not always keen on rich Foie Gras in large tasting menus. I was also keen to try "la ventreche de thon mi-cuit, la creme de Bouchot et le jus de crustaces; Beauvais a l'huile d'olive, sweet banana, chicoree & touche de para". Another wonderful dish. Good quality tuna belly, gently seared an accompanied by a shellfish sauce, the shellfish sauce being so classical tasting you wouldn't have known you were at Michel Bras until you looked at the plate and found a sweet banana chilli, cold mash potato and some flowers. ONe small issue, I found 2 small slithers of bone in my tuna, at this level this shouldn't be happening.

"Traditionnellement a la pomme de terre: la rapee de cepes de nos hetraies; celeri-rave & vinaigrette aux truffes de Compregnac" spaghetti like celeriac and cepes with truffle vinaigrette. The cepes are stunning at the moment and combined with the vinaigrette and celeriac made a couple of beautiful mouthfuls of food. The Truffles are mild tasting, when asked our waitress said that they were frozen truffles and returned a few moments later to tell us exactly where they were from (just outside Millau). This sequence of 4 dishes was possibly the best I had ever had.

The lamb came as a long slice of the saddle, cooked precisely with slight browning to the fat, this came with fennel and a sweet crisp fig "cigar" .

Cheese was average for a restaurant of this standard although it was well described by our waitress who assisted our muddling French by translating everything perfectly throughout the meal.

Dessert started with a Chicory version of the coulant accompanied by a squash and vanilla ice cream, this was the best version of the coulant I have tried, the chicory mild but detectable in the chocolate, the squash adding another note to the ice cream.

Roast figs stuffed with a little fennel were accompanied by star anise ice cream, unusual dessert combination that worked well together. Finally, coffee jelly with a chestnut mousse and dulce de leche. An ok dish but by this point slightly irrelevant. Coffees, petit fours ad candy floss followed once again.

I think that service here has been mentioned before, I can't quite put my finger on it but it isn't quite up to 3 star standards, During both meals I noticed that the ladies of the Bras family don't manage the dining room but merely perform as hosts, chatting to tables and smiling nicely. Occasionally I saw empty tables left with napkins and dirty plates once the diners had vacated. I didn't necessarily feel this was the fault of the waiters/waitresses but more down to management who walked past several times without picking anything up. Almost as if they were too senior to perform that task.

Another thing I noticed, I'm not sure if Moby's review had been read by many people that were visiting the restaurant both nights I was there but hardly anybody ordered the tasting menus. I saw one table order a single course, another order two. On the first night I could only see one person eating the tasting menu and on my second just 2. This surprised me, on our previous visit I recall nearly everybody ordering it.

Overall a fantastic meal set in an impossibly beautiful location. Michel Bras prefers the area when it is slightly grey and cloudy and I couldn't agree more, the orange skyline contrasting with the grey clouds, rain visible in the distance made for a perfect evening. I really could have died asleep in my bed that night but it would have been a while coming, I lay awake for ages I was so excited by the food!

Edited September 20, 2005 by Matthew Grant (log)

[docsconz]

Despite Matthew's raves about some of the food, some of his other comments along with Moby's and my own recent experience at Pierre Gagnaire makes me wonder if some of the titans of French avant-garde cooking are having some troubles maintaining consistent creativity that continues to astonish and still be delicious.

[Carlsbad]

Thank you to all for the informative and entertaining reviews.

[Silly Disciple]

Thanks Matthew for a very informative review.

I am going to chez Bras in about three weeks time, and based on your report (and praying MobyP was there during an off-day and I won't) I would be inclined to order the "decouverte & nature". Would you say this is a wise choice for a first visit? Ours will be a party of 4, would it be wiser to order a la carte and share?

Also, would you mind telling me how much did each meal set you back?

Thanks.

[docsconz]

Silly, I will be looking forward to your report as well. Michel Bras along with The Fat Duck are two of the more intriguing restaurants in Europe to me that I haven't been to yet.

[MobyP]

Despite Matthew's raves about some of the food, some of his other comments along with Moby's and my own recent experience at Pierre Gagnaire makes me wonder if some of the titans of French avant-garde cooking are having some troubles maintaining consistent creativity that continues to astonish and still be delicious.

←

Gagnaire was always problematic, but not because of consistency, rather because he generally refuses to do the same thing twice. As his wife has said, he just gets bored. The difference is, when he hits the right note, it's at such an astronomically high level as not to be believed. Even his biggest fans say that 1 or 2 meals out of 4 can sometimes have bad elements or even fail as a whole.

I'm glad Matt had a good meal at Bras. I trust his taste buds.

Edited September 21, 2005 by MobyP (log)

[Matthew Grant]

Thanks Matthew for a very informative review.

I am going to chez Bras in about three weeks time, and based on your report (and praying MobyP was there during an off-day and I won't) I would be inclined to order the "decouverte & nature". Would you say this is a wise choice for a first visit? Ours will be a party of 4, would it be wiser to order a la carte and share?

Also, would you mind telling me how much did each meal set you back?

Thanks.

←

If it is your first visit to Michel Bras I definitely recommend "decouverte & nature" to get an idea of his cuisine, I wouldn't make any changes to the menu on a first visit unless there is something that you aren't keen on eating. The tasting menu costs €152 per person - a bargain compared to Parisian 3 star restaurants. The first meal came to around €385 in total (food only). Vegetable dishes average €40, Entrees around €43, Fish between €33 and €86. Meat courses top out at €130 for the beef. The lamb is €62, Chicken and Rabbit €45.

If you do order ALC be careful how much you order, we were advised against ordering from all 4 sections of the menu, the ALC dishes were surprisingly large!

←

I'm glad Matt had a good meal at Bras. I trust his taste buds.

And I yours Moby, perhaps you just hit it on an off day (unacceptable).

Edited September 21, 2005 by Matthew Grant (log)

[robert brown]

Why not decide when you get there? October is a key period for dining, maybe the best of the year in terms of fish and game. If you see highly-seasonal dishes and/or whole products on the bone that are offered a la carte and not on the tasting menu, you might want to, for example, double-up or order a dish or two made for a minimum of two people.

[Matthew Grant]

The Grand Hotel Auguy is nothing special to look at but us reasonably priced and also has a pretty decent restaurant.

Decouvertre du Terroir D'Aubrac Par Isabelle was a hearty tasting menu:

Tapas de Charcuterie maison pour grignoter en Attendant

Crepinette des joues de porc confites, Creme de Lentilles et jus de Viande: Shredded confit pork moulded into a luxurious meatball with a decent creamy sauce with some meat jus. Pretty much as it reads, the porc having excellent flavour.

Pave de Boudin Noir, pommes en l'air, Vinaigre de Cidre accompagne d'un Foie Gras Poele: Excellent, a small disc of black pudding topped with a disc of apple and a small piece of Foie Gras. The Cider vinegar reduced to lend some sweetness to the dish. Very small but perfectly cooked Foie Gras.

Filet de Truite du "Gagnot" en Croustillant de lard, Sauce au Laguiole petit Chou Farci paysan.My minds a little blank on this one but I do rememember that we were both disappointed with the quality of the fish and the fact that it was woefully underseasoned.

Sorbet a la gentiane du Plateau de L'aubrac

Tripous Maison a la facon d'Eleonore: I gamely attempted this the bundle of tripe was very strongly flavoured and sitting in a which I presume it was cooked in. Not really a favourite, nothing to do with the cooking, I suspect it is more

psychological.

Pieds de Cochon braises, cuits en galette de Poitrine fumee, jus de Roti: The pigs trotter had been braised and chopped into small pieces with a high proportion of the gelatinous fat and arranged into a gallete contained with a slice of bacon as the containing wall. This was very rich and would have perhaps benefited from slicing the trotter rather than chopping it, however it did have excellent flavour.

At this point Rachel opted for Faux-filet grille "Bouef Fermier d'Aubrac", an excelent piece of beef with good flavour completely trimmed of fat. Both dishes were served with a great sticky garlicky aligot. We ate here again a couple of nights later and the aligot was of the same standard. Better than Michel Bras!!!!

Good cheese was followed by Dessert. At this point you may notice a pattern in my reports. I just can't remember the Desserts!!! A poached pear of some sort, very nice but further than that I can't remember.

Overall a very solid meal, perhaps not the best balanced tasting menu but accomplished cooking and deserving of its one star rating.

Website Here

Edited September 21, 2005 by Matthew Grant (log)

[Bux]

Nice looking place. It's a pity it's so close to Michel Bras and has to compete with it at all. Both your menu and the Spring tasting menu were very appealing.

[Bux]

Despite Matthew's raves about some of the food, some of his other comments along with Moby's and my own recent experience at Pierre Gagnaire makes me wonder if some of the titans of French avant-garde cooking are having some troubles maintaining consistent creativity that continues to astonish and still be delicious.

←

Gagnaire was always problematic, but not because of consistency, rather because he generally refuses to do the same thing twice. As his wife has said, he just gets bored. The difference is, when he hits the right note, it's at such an astronomically high level as not to be believed. Even his biggest fans say that 1 or 2 meals out of 4 can sometimes have bad elements or even fail as a whole.

I'm glad Matt had a good meal at Bras. I trust his taste buds.

←

An intersting comment and one to bear in mind. First, it may tend to make any single meal risky, especialy if you will only have the opportunity have that one meal, and especially if that one meal consumes your budget for multistarred dining at Parisian prices. For those who've managed two or three meals, if the last one is faulty, it can send the signal that Gagnaire is slipping, when it may just be he's uneven.

[PS]

We had a really good 30 euro lunch menu there back in June. From the menu:

L'amuse bouche du jour

Tartare de saumon a l'huile parfumee et Brousse de brebis aux herbes, Tuile au pavot

Faux filet "Boeuf femier de l'Aubrac" grille avec Aligot de Montagne

Giboulee de Cerises en chaud-froid a la glace Pistache et ses Jesuites tiedes

It's been a while, but I seem to remember the perfumed oil with the salmon being delicious, the steak and aligot was magnificent - simply and perfectly done. The dessert was also splendid - again, simply done but a great mix of flavours.

(I took a phot of the menu, hence the better recollection of the menu names than the actual dishes)

All in all, we thought it was excellent value and fortified us sufficiently to go and spend 300 euros on some superb Laguiole knives...

[docsconz]

Despite Matthew's raves about some of the food, some of his other comments along with Moby's and my own recent experience at Pierre Gagnaire makes me wonder if some of the titans of French avant-garde cooking are having some troubles maintaining consistent creativity that continues to astonish and still be delicious.

←

Gagnaire was always problematic, but not because of consistency, rather because he generally refuses to do the same thing twice. As his wife has said, he just gets bored. The difference is, when he hits the right note, it's at such an astronomically high level as not to be believed. Even his biggest fans say that 1 or 2 meals out of 4 can sometimes have bad elements or even fail as a whole.

I'm glad Matt had a good meal at Bras. I trust his taste buds.

←

An intersting comment and one to bear in mind. First, it may tend to make any single meal risky, especialy if you will only have the opportunity have that one meal, and especially if that one meal consumes your budget for multistarred dining at Parisian prices. For those who've managed two or three meals, if the last one is faulty, it can send the signal that Gagnaire is slipping, when it may just be he's uneven.

←

The problem is, when this happens during a first experience, the tendancy is to not give a second - especially at Paris three star prices.

[molto e]

I ate the same menu that Doc did at Pierre Gagnaire, but not on the same day and I would not give him another shot at 400 euros a head. The combinations of flavors were not pleasing and that was unanimous at our table. I would be so bummed to travel to Chez Bras and not enjoy the meal. I do agree that dining at a restaurant once is like playing russian roulette.

Molto E

[Matthew Grant]

Nice looking place. It's a pity it's so close to Michel Bras and has to compete with it at all. Both your menu and the Spring tasting menu were very appealing.

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I think Michel Bras probably leads to a large amount of its custom. The restaurant was nearly full both nights we were there.

[Silly Disciple]

can anyone comment on dress code at chez Bras? thanks.

[Laidback]

can anyone comment on dress code at chez Bras? thanks.

←

I was there last week and was one of only 3 men wearing ties. I would describe it as casual elegant.

[Matthew Grant]

It's the most casual 3 star you can imagine. Smart Jeans and jumpers are perfectly acceptable, very few people in jackets hardly anybody in ties. It is very relaxed.

[Mumin]

I have a thing fore the cooking of Michel Bras and i realy love his book. Now I am thinking to get a reservation at the restaurant of Michel Bras. My question is if ther is sombody that have been ther resently. And mayby have som pictures of som plates or at least can tell me if the food experiens is worth the trip and cost!

[molto e]

I have a thing fore the cooking of Michel Bras and i realy love his book. Now I am thinking to get a reservation at the restaurant of Michel Bras. My question is if ther is sombody that have been ther resently. And mayby have som pictures of som plates or at least can tell me if the food experiens is worth the trip and cost!

←

Here are some pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chezpim/sets/336285/

[Dave Hatfield]

I have a thing fore the cooking of Michel Bras and i realy love his book. Now I am thinking to get a reservation at the restaurant of Michel Bras. My question is if ther is sombody that have been ther resently. And mayby have som pictures of som plates or at least can tell me if the food experiens is worth the trip and cost!

←

We, a party of 6, were at Bras for lunch not too long a go. In a nutshell - none of us would go back.

The area the restaurant is located is very beautiful & the restaurant archetecture is stunning. We did not like the layout of the dining room. Tables were so far apart & sort of shielded from each other that although the restaurant was full you didn't get that buzz & ambiance that is usually part of a great dining experience.

The service was not up to what one would expect. Example: two of our party arrived about 15 minutes before the rest of us. They were plunked down in the waiting area, but not offered a drink or anything else. During the meal there were a number of small slips in the service that better training mught have eliminated.

The food was, as you would expect, very good & beautifully presented. But it was not memorable; neither my wife nor I can clearly remember a single dish.

Finally, the wine list had the distinction of being the most over priced list I have ever seen. Nice wines, great wines, but silly prices. There was hardly a wine of any description under the equivilent of $60.

So, we certainly won't go back.

Interestingly one of our couples who had stayed overnight in a local B&B decided to have lunch at Le Vieux Pont in Belcastel the next day. (Le Vieux Pont has one Michelin star) They had a better meal, enjoyed it more & paid a lot less. We agree having been to Le Vieux Pont a number of times. Bras might go & take some lessons. Not on the food, but on how to run the restaurant. Great ambieance, great service, great food and fair prices.

[malcolmwilliamson]

On the evidence of one meal there eaten about 4 years ago a definite NO.

[Pork Belly]

On the evidence of one meal there eaten about 4 years ago a definite NO.

←

If you are interested in the cooking of Michel Bras, by all means go if you have a chance. He offers a very personal dining experience that is not for everybody. I had an excellent meal there three summers ago. I love the way he uses vegetables and herbs, some courses by themselves; others paired with seafood and meat. And all his ingredients are top-notch. I agree with the previous post about the service and the wine being very expensively priced. The service was not as polish as some of the other 3- star restaurants, probably dued to the fact that his restaurant is seasonal, open only from April to October. The staff was friendly and cheerful but lack the warmth and generosity of other great family restaurants like Arzak, Troisgros, Pic and L’Auberge de I’Ill. Another reason to go now is that Michel Bras is in semi-retirement. He is still very much involved though the kitchen is run by his son. Try to book a room because the hotel and setting are spectacular.

[Matthew Grant]

GO! If you have the book you already have photographs pretty similar to the real thing. I've eaten there 3 times, 2 of the meals were outstanding, one merely good. Much as I like Le Vieux Pont it is incomparable to Michel Bras. I've attached links to my reviews below, there are many others on the board, some not so complimentary (in fact my Girlfriend thinks it a lilltle ho-hum) but IMO this is a restaurant not to be missed. Incidentally on ths issue of cost, while not cheap it is possibly the best value 3 star I know.

Le Vieux Pont

An oustanding Michel bras meal!

Good Michel Bras Meal

Excellent Michel bras Meal

[Dave Hatfield]

GO!

Chacun a son gout.

Interesting though that every one so far who has been has mentioned the service in a negarive manner.