"The Hope of D.C.'s Aproned Ranks" - Anne Hull

[chefette]

Someone MUST have read this by now...

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...5052800490.html

Anne Hull - "The Hope of D.C.'s Aproned Ranks"

[zilla369]

I think it's an extremely well-written piece.

The writer, Anne Hull, was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in 2000 for her serial in the St. Petersburg Times about Mexican women working in a crab house in North Carolina: Una Vida Mejor

[Steve Klc]

Add this to the required reading list for anyone considering a career-change and going $35,000 in debt to attend a culinary school. Tough to pay back those loans on $8 an hour, no health insurance, vacation time or sick leave.

Very compelling piece, I'm glad the Post editors decided to run it on the front page and above the fold.

[Fat Guy]

No question, it's well written. But it's also so far behind the curve it's hard to figure out why such a talented journalist would expend so much energy on it. The play-by-play kitchen report has been done to death at this point. And the New York Times is already in the middle of a huge series on class that runs far broader and deeper than this piece (and even what the Times is doing feels like a been-there-done-that project calculated not to be interesting or newsworthy but rather to win journalism awards).

[Steve Klc]

I'm afraid it's not behind the curve, Steve. This subject is very rarely discussed by those considering entering the field, most who do aren't prepared for the reality that awaits them. We need more of this, not less, even if it feels like it has been done before. There's always room for more sophisticated writers to connect the dots for the more critically-aware readers and diners, but this piece will come as a shock to, oh, say, 500,000 Post readers living outside the Beltway (not to mention a nationwide net audience) who sometimes forget how well they have it, as they put the paper down on their granite countertop and take sip of fresh squeezed OJ this morning. And, I'm not confident that the majority of big-city diners are past this brutal point of awareness, let alone the casual strip-mall diner out with their family.

And I know that incoming culinary students, weaned on the potential celebrity of the Food Network, looking for an alternative to college, have not read these types of pieces enough to the degree that it has sunk in--to realize that once they are out of school they'll be behind the dishwasher who was shown how to clean squid, and who is already doing it wickedly fast without compaint because his very livelihood depends on it.

[Mayhaw Man]

No question, it's well written. But it's also so far behind the curve it's hard to figure out why such a talented journalist would expend so much energy on it. The play-by-play kitchen report has been done to death at this point. And the New York Times is already in the middle of a huge series on class that runs far broader and deeper than this piece (and even what the Times is doing feels like a been-there-done-that project calculated not to be interesting or newsworthy but rather to win journalism awards).

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I don't think that stories like this can be done to death. Newspapers at their best are there to cover issues that are important and, most of the time, current. Ms. Hull has certainly achieved this in spades in this well written story.

This piece (and, admittedly, many others similar to it) touches on so many issues that should be of concern to all of us. I can't possibly continue this without leaving food and going into a giant political diatribe, but I will say that using the kitchen worker as a metaphor for the huge division between the classes in this country is a valid one.

And I agree with Steve that this story would be decent required reading for anyone who is considering a career move to the back of the house. It's a tough racket and not for the faint of heart.

Hats off to Ms. Hull and good luck with the awards.

[Louisa Chu]

Miguel gets overtime?? I'm working in the wrong restaurants!

[SuzySushi]

WOW is it well-written! Kudos to Ms. Hull, and thank you, Chefette, for posting the link.

Most "civilians" (unless they've read Bourdain's book) think of the restaurant industry in terms of celebrity chefs -- they don't see the sweat and blood of the line cooks, the dishwashers, who are the backbone and muscles of the business. She tells a compelling story.

[chefette]

and thinking about this today - something that Ms. Hull did not bring up - because it was apparently not relevant to her point is that this isn't just how hispanics that used to be gang members and learned to cook in prison are scraping by in top kitchens to make food for the gentrified $600K condo owners - this is exactly the same pay and same life that the college grad 30-something career changers going to work as cooks get. School does not count as your dues - you don't come in and get to be higher up the (forgive me) food chain because you speak english or have some diploma in your pocket.

Miguel actually has alot on the ball, has a great resume and lots of good experience behind him and will hopefully do well.

just a little seed to keep in mind as a reality check.

[simdelish]

this isn't just how hispanics that used to be gang members and learned to cook in prison are scraping by in top kitchens to make food for the gentrified $600K condo owners - this is exactly the same pay and same life that the college grad 30-something career changers going to work as cooks get.  School does not count as your dues - you don't come in and get to be higher up the (forgive me) food chain because you speak english or have some diploma in your pocket.

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My thoughts exactly as I read this! All career changers in culinary school should read this! But of course the schools would never let them see such a thing...

Reality check-mate!

[robyn]

No question, it's well written. But it's also so far behind the curve it's hard to figure out why such a talented journalist would expend so much energy on it. The play-by-play kitchen report has been done to death at this point. And the New York Times is already in the middle of a huge series on class that runs far broader and deeper than this piece (and even what the Times is doing feels like a been-there-done-that project calculated not to be interesting or newsworthy but rather to win journalism awards).

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It may be "been-there done-that" - but I won't consider it really done until I see upper middle class people boycotting expensive restaurants that abuse kitchen help the way they used to boycott grapes because of farm worker abuse.

In my book - abuse consists of things like hiring illegals to keep wages sub-standard - not complying with wage and hour laws - not complying with safety and environmental laws - etc. - etc.

I keep hearing lots of people in the industry saying simply that this is the way things are done - but I don't buy it. Much like I wouldn't buy it if any other employer in the US made the same argument. If the employer has to raise prices to make everything "kosher" - so be it. And if people won't buy at those prices - so be it. We're not talking life and death here - simply discretionary consumer purchases - and high-end ones at that.

As most people who know me know - I'm no liberal. I'm just someone who has employed people/firms in many capacities for many years - and I can't think of any rationale that would entitle me to have the people who are working for me treated like dogs.

Can you think of any persuasive rationale for this industry mentality - other than the old "everyone does it"? Robyn

[touaregsand]

and thinking about this today - something that Ms. Hull did not bring up - because it was apparently not relevant to her point is that this isn't just how hispanics that used to be gang members and learned to cook in prison are scraping by in top kitchens to make food for the gentrified $600K condo owners - this is exactly the same pay and same life that the college grad 30-something career changers going to work as cooks get.  School does not count as your dues - you don't come in and get to be higher up the (forgive me) food chain because you speak english or have some diploma in your pocket.

Miguel actually has alot on the ball, has a great resume and lots of good experience behind him and will hopefully do well. 

just a little seed to keep in mind as a reality check.

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Most of the hispanics I've met in kitchens were recent immigrants OR born in America (2nd,3rd generation) with culinary degrees OR career changers with University degrees (one drove up in a Bentley) OR...

Maybe I've seen more diversity amongst hispanics because I live in Mexico, er Los Angeles.