The Mediterranean Feast

[chefzadi]

I have not read every page of this wondrous book. Each page swells with knowledge and scholarship.

If I may be so bold as to clumsily share my thoughts I would like to begin near the end of the book. In a chapter titled Conclusion the Unity of the Mediterranean.

There were two Mediterraneans- East and West, Turkish and Spanish, Islamic and Christian.

As I hope is somewhat evident by now, we can say that there are many Mediterraneans. There is the Mediterranean as defined by climate, another defined by the sea, and yet another defined by history. There is a human Mediterranean marked by movements of its peoples, and it is this Mediterranean that can provide a unifying concept. The human Mediterranean reveals itself through literature, art and architecture, and gastronomy. The movement of peoples has also meant the continual repopulation of the Mediterranean.

From my own point of view I have seen the Mediterranean as North and South, the European side and the African side. This of course has to do with the history of the Magrheb and Algeria in particular. But the North and South of course can be considered the West when seen in relation to the Mashriq. And East and West make more sense for historical purposes which I won't get into too much now.

Yes, the art and architecture of Maghreb have been discussed in this forum in other threads. The Roman mosaics of Tunisia. The Byzantine and Roman ruins in Setif, Algeria. Ancient footprints are petrified next to modern buildings. The Maghreb has a long memory as does the Mediterranean itself.

Edited April 30, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[chefzadi]

Further in this chapter is The Wandering Jew

I mentioned in the Beautiful Algeria thread that for the most part there is no distinction form Jewish Algerian cooking and non-Jewish Algerian cooking. The differences would be related to Kashrut and not in the ingredients or use of aromatics. This is why I had a bit of trouble wrapping my mind around Jewish recipes of the region. In the back of mind the question, "why is this particularly Jewish and not simply Algerian or Moroccan or Tunisian?" lingered.

The discussion in the book is just a few pages, but very concise as is Mr Wright's style of writing. The role of Jews as transporters, exporters and documenters is very clearly stated.

As a side not this reminds me of my Israeli friend who I met in Korea. His mother was a Moroccan Jew. She came to visit and he of course brought her to the restaurant I was working at. She immediately hugged and kissed me allover. It's the bled that we share.

[chefzadi]

I'm still trying to absorb this book. I read Escoffier and Ducasse's big book with ease. But Clifford Wright's books blow me away. He wrote it in less time then it will take me to comprehend it.

[chefzadi]

I had the oppurtunity to change the buffet menu for Intro II. I chose a range of recipes from Mr Wright's book so that my students could get a sense of culinary history as well. I will post the menu and more photos later this week. I didn't have a chance to take too many photos. The food was attacked very quickly by the visitors.

I'm off to enjoy the weekend.

[chefzadi]

This is the Buffet Menu for The Mediterranean Feast

(Alot of these recipes are fantastic for Summer and easy to make)

Gazpacho- Andalusia

Salata Mishwiya-Maghreb

Salat al-Khudra- Syria

Tarte au Roquefort- Languedoc

Batatis Mirhya-Algeria

Couscous-Magrheb

Safranli Pilavi- Turkey

Moros y Cristianos- Valencia

Harisa-Tunisia

Acili Esme- Turkey

Brik bi’l Tunn- Tunisia

Alboronia- Andalusia

Lu Spaghetti ou Pistou- Provence

Melanzane all Finitese- Calabria

Zagrebacke Glive s Makaronem- Croatia

Poumo d’Amour a l’Antiboise- Provence

Lamb Marqa (tajine)- Maghreb

Shakhsukha al-Bisakra- Algeria

Shish Tawuq- Arab Levant

Arros a Banda- Valencia

Albondigas a la Andalusia

Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Olives- Algerian style

Doner Kebab-Turkey

[FoodMan]

Farid-

This is a whole lot of stuff!! How long does it take to prep all that? What is the "game plan" to execute sucha varied buffet?

Elie

[chefzadi]

I'll post about the game plan later.

I want to quickly add that it's a fanatastic buffet, catering, potluck menu.

It's also great for Kosher or Halal menus.

[chefzadi]

Farid-

This is a whole lot of stuff!! How long does it take to prep all that? What is the "game plan" to execute sucha varied buffet?

Elie

←

It took about 3 hours with 36 students. It would take less time and man power with experienced cooks. Remember they are learning and there is time spent on explaining things.

My wife and I could do the prep together in the same time. But we read eachother's minds and have a rhythm going, like a good kitchen line should. I usually piss her off though. Heh, heh.

The game plan is all in the prep or mise en place. Alot of the recipes have the same ingredients. A list is made of the TOTAL ingredients, cuts and amounts.

[kanljung]

I got my copy of this marvellous book yesterday. I've only had time to read the introduction yet. This one will certainly keep me occupied for a very long time.

Thanks Farid, for leading me on to this book!

[chefzadi]

Hi Kanljung

Glad to hear you have the book.

Its's really dense with information, non? I appreciate his writing style, very straightforward and energetic. Mr Wright wrote a fascinating peace about Timbuktu

There are more photos of the buffet here.

[Swisskaese]

I have a question about the Shakhsukha al-Bisakra.

Here in Israel, the Morrocan community makes Shakshouka that is made with merguez sausages, tomatos, eggs, garlic, hot pepper sauce and onion. It is made in a frying pan, cooked on the stove top. The eggs are cooked by making indentions in the pan and gently placing the egg in the indentions. It is served with Harissa.

The Hungarians also have a similiar dish.

Is your dish a cousin of this? It looks like a type of lasagna.

Edited September 19, 2005 by Swisskaese (log)

[chefzadi]

Shakhshukkas are egg and vegetable dishes made in a pan as you describe. Sometimes the eggs are stirred in or left whole and placed into indentations and poached.

Shakhsukha al-Bisakra is an entirely different dish with a similar sounding name. Traditionally it's made with rougag. Yes, it can be described as a type of lasagna dish, though not Italian influenced at all.

The Shakhshukkas you describe the Moroccan community in Israel eating sounds more like an Eastern Algerian preparation. Harissa is Tunisian and Eastern Algerian. The Moroccan interest in hot peppers is relatively new. And merguez is more of an Algerian specialty.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that Algerian jews are the smallest in number in Israel compared to other North Africans.

[Swisskaese]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that Algerian jews are the smallest in number in Israel compared to other North Africans.

←

Yes that is true. I believe that the majority of Algerian Jews emigrated to France.

Israel's North African influences are mainly from Moroccan, Libyan and Ethiopian Jews.

Edited September 20, 2005 by Swisskaese (log)

[chefzadi]

Jacques Derrida would be one of the more famous Algerian Jews who moved to France. He was pretty vocal about Algerian immigrant rights.

Whether we were muslim, pied noirs or jews when we immigrated/exiled to France we simply became Algerian. Equal.