WTN: Two 2001 German Whites

[Brad Ballinger]

Lee Short and Bruce Schneier (both who post on eGullet) had come up with a wacky dinner theme about a year ago, that we finally made happen -- Fire and Ice. The dinner menu consisted of alternating courses of flambe and sorbet. Every non-sorbet item had to be set on fire. In addition to bringing two sorbets, I also had a salad course. What to set on fire, I wondered. Since the dressing for said salad was warm, we decided to heat some Calvados, ignite it, then add it to the warmed vinaigrette. At least that made it on theme. The only other unorthodox flambe item was a ratatouille, which either got a similar Calvados treatment or a cognac treatment.

Some sorbets hit on all cylinders while others got an A for ambition but not much beyond that. They were persimmon-lemongrass, grapefruit-tarragon, lime-asparagus (no thanks), kumquat-ginger, mango-pommegranate, shiitake-tomato-basil (DNPIM), lychee-coconut, and a mixed fruit-mirabelle eau de vie.

I didn't take notes on all the wines, but thought I'd give a progress report on a pair of 2001 German whites.

2001 J.J. Chirstoffel Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. AP no. 260204100602. Incredibly pale color, hardly a tint at all. Similarly subtle and elegant in the mouth. Nose that carries a bit of diesel. Flavor profile of slate, lime, and apple with an almost perfect acidity for first rate balance. This wine is so seamless, clean, and complete. And you can easily leave it alone for five years. Paired surpisinly well with french onion soup (made with duck stock).

2001 Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spatlese #2130, Pfalz. AP no. 51740791302. Pronounced grapefruit flavors with an undercurrent of litter box minerals. Powerful fruit, but not in the overpoweringly mutant way this grape can be, and bracing acidity. The balance here isn't as tightly woven as the Christoffel, but there's no complaints either. This wine was paried with the grapefruit-tarragon sorbet and transitioned into a Asian-themed salad (with Calvados). It was a good wine for the salad. And there's no rush to drink it.