Pilafs

[Suvir Saran]

Pilafs (Pulao) - These rice dishes are synonymous with Indian cooking.

Do you have a favorite kind?

How do you make yours?

WHat do you look for in a pilaf?

[Suvir Saran]

I am guessing rice has lost favor with most people.. no one seems to have said anything about this topic... hmmmmmm

[anil]

Pilaf, in itself is identified by many cultures in the Middle-East, as well as in Northern Africa. The two I personally know about in Africa, Egypt and Morroco.  

Many mediterrainean countries like Greece have pilafs as a serving. Yellow Rice pilafs mixed with seafood are well known as Paella, and not to say anything about Rice&Beans in Central America.

[Sandra Levine]

Usually, when I make Indian food, I keep the rice simple -- basmati flavored maid with a coconut milk or flavored with lemon juice and cardamom.  Sometimes I add some toasted almonds, but that's about it. What's your favorite, Suvir?

[Jason Perlow]

How is a Pilaf/Pulao different from a Biryani? I like both.

[Suvir Saran]

Pilafs/Pulao are different from biryaanis in that they are cooked in one pan.

Biryaanis are traditionally rice dishes which are layered.

I have so many favorites.

The Iranians do wonders with rice and pilafs.  And Indians have them to thank for much of their rice genius.

What are the favorite rice dishes of others here???

[anil]

How is a Pilaf/Pulao different from a Biryani? I like both.

Biryani, is like rice-plate, but not quite - One cooks meats, or

vegetables along with the rice. Biryani, is a meal in itself and

a standalone entree if you may.....

Pilafs/Pulao are accompaniments to main dishes. The rice cooked with minimal amount of spices,condiments and flavourings. Sprinkling a handful of peas,along with cloves into rice, makes it into a simple peas-pulao :)

[Steve Plotnicki]

The best pilaf I know of in NYC is available at the Uzebekistani

Cultural Center (kosher) just up the street from the Kew Gardens, Long Island Railroad Station. "Plov" as the Uzbecks call it is a sort of dry stew using rice and lamb. It's quite good, and a heaping portion of it is available at the center for about $10. I've enclosed a recipe.

Recipe for Plov

[Tonyfinch]

Steve,you should sign yourself off with one of those little phrases

"Hates Pie.Loves Plov"

Its very hard to get decent biryani or pulao in London restaurants.Some of the Pakistani restaurants  do them as a special,but only on one night a week.Rice  dishes like these don't take too kindly too waiting around  and those kind of dishes are no good the next day.

Iranian restaurants cook their rice so it forms a golden crust. You can buy special rice cookers which will do this.They will place a large slick of butter on the rice for you to stir in to taste.

I don't know anywhere to get decent paella in London,but many Italian restaurants will do a risotto,insisting that it's cooked there and then and not served from an even recently cooked batch

[Suvir Saran]

In India... many people love Khurchan... it is the crispy crust formed at the base and the sides of the pan in which pilafs are cooked.

In fact at Chotiwaala restaurant in Haridwar they sell the Khurchan for a little more money.  The flavors of the rice and veggies and the essential oils from the whole spices are rather intense in this crust.  It is delicious and it has that tooth that is perfect to bite into.  Goes great with raita.

[Jinmyo]

Khurchan sounds great. I love crispy rice and will often cook gohan (short-grained Japanese rice) at a low temperature for two hours or more to develop a lovely bottom crust that is wonderful with gomasio (sesame salt) and minced scallions and ginger.

As for pilafs with Indian food, I find the other dishes so intense I prefer plain rice. Patna, not basmati unless it is from India and fresh. But since I'm not so into rolling rice balls to dip into the other dishes, I prefer naan or roti.

In general.

So I would make a pilaf to stand on its own.

[Suvir Saran]

Where do you get Patna rice?  What is different about it in comparison to Basmati?

I love pilafs on their own as well.  We make something called Tahiree which is a pilaf made with peas and potatoes and rice and whole spices.  In our home it would be served on nights we wanted to give our appetites a break.

Nothing like having tahiree with raita (yogurt sauce) and some papad (lentil crisps) and some achaar (pickles).

In the winter months.. Tahiree would be made with cauliflower and peas.  Since cauliflower was in season.  Also a great pilaf.

[Jinmyo]

Suvir, I get patna from the Indian shop around the corner (which I frequent rarely because the guy behind the counter is usually on the cell phone and ignores the people lined up at the cash. I think he's saying, "Guarav, there are many people here. They keep looking at me. Why do they not go away?" but I don't speak Hindi so can't be sure) or from another Indian shop in Ottawa's Chinatown (?).

I find basmati waxy and stiff and the flavouring a bit...weird for rice. Note (in the style of cabrales) that I am not fond of jasmine rice either. I like rice as rice. Plain rice, especially gohan, is simply luscious and generous in its simplicity.

Tahiree sounds nice although note (cabrales reference again, as I am missing her frequent posts) I am not fond of peas. Although I love pea greens. Nor cauliflower though I like it roasted with curry seasonings.

Are papad papadum? I've never made them but only have taken them in (another cabrales reference) in restaurants or heated packaged ones a few times.

Which whole spices are used in tahiree?

[Suvir Saran]

But Jinmyo you are missing Cabrales and trying to be her and now I am missing Jinmyo.  What do we do about that?

Waxy... what Basmati rice have you been buying.  I have never had waxy Basmati rice... wow.... we have been eating very different Basmati rice.  I have to understand better what you are reffering to when you say waxy.  I just finished eating dinner.  We ate no rice.  I am happy eating flat bread with curries.  We ate daal (Sabut Masoor Kee daal - Whole black masoor lentils) and Bhutta Masala (corn on the con curry) and haree mirchi kaa achaar (hot green chili pickle).

As for Tahiree spices....cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, very tiny pinch of coriander seeds, whole red chilies and black peppercorns.  Asafoetida and turmeric are added.   Ginger and garlic are optional.

[Jinmyo]

Suvir, note I am not trying to be cabrales but merely referencing some elements of her posting style

1) because it amuses me

2) because I hope it will amuse her when she sees the references and let her know once again how much her contributions are appreciated on eGullet and

3) because I thought it might be amusing to others in a slight way.

So nothing needs to be done except what we need to do.

The basmati I encounter is too old. Which is why I excepted fresh basmati brought by friends from India. The stuff in shops here is dried out and nasty. I've prepared it in many ways, including my 20 cup rice cooker but it's no better than the stuff at the steam tables in Indian restaurants here. Like perfumed candle shavings. Fresh basmati is moist and flavourful (although I prefer short-grained rice). However, it seems that simply calling rice basmati is a selling point here in Canada. I note however that much of what is sold as basmati in grocery store here is actually grown in Texas. So basmati is either a term for rice that ranges from excellent to worthless or should rightfully be used only to refer to the best.

I find patna much more reliable, regardless of its provenance.

"Asafoetida and turmeric are added" just before serving?

[Suvir Saran]

I understood what you were doing Cabrales.  Oh.. sorry I meant Jinmyo.  I was simply teasing you.  No biggies.

The turmeric and asafoetida are added to the Tahiree just after the whole spices have been fried in the oil for a couple of minutes.  As the cinnamon stick begins to unfurl.  Asafoetida can burn quickly.  

Basmati ages brilliantly.  Certainly the rice t hey are selling you is not Basmati.  And you are right in guessing so.  Real basmati rice ages very well.  In fact people pay more for old Basmati.  I always save a bag so I can bring it out for special parties.  A few food writers have spoken with me about doing a story on aged rice and how rice can be treated like wine in many Indian homes.  Good batches of Basmati are hidden in dark rooms (Kaali Kothris) for ageing.  And brought out for special holidays or even weddings.

And I like you do not like Texmati at all.  It certainly has the long grain but is very waxy.

[Jinmyo]

Basmati takes some time to age. How long? What exactly are the flavourings it is aged with?

[Sandra Levine]

Suvir, can you describe the difference in flavor between fresh and aged basmati rice?  Are there any particular preparations that absolutely work better with one or the other?

[Suvir Saran]

Aged basmati works better in any and all preparations.  It is heaven in every grain when simply steamed.  It is perfectly separated long grains of rice with very little starch when cooked into pilafs and biryaanis.

As far as I remember rice was simply placed into large Boras    ( bags made out of gunny sacs  - recycled jute ) and stored in the Kaali Kothris (dark rooms).  I often will throw in a few bay leaves with my rice as I age it.  But in my little NYC home... there is little room to age large quantities and the revolving door of house guests and diners make it impossible for me to ever have too much of anything.

[cabrales]

Suvir, note I am not trying to be cabrales but merely referencing some elements of her posting style

1) because it amuses me

2) because I hope it will amuse her when she sees the references and let her know once again how much her contributions are appreciated on eGullet and

3) because I thought it might be amusing to others in a slight way

Jinmyo -- Thank-you    I miss our ongoing discussions on the board too. I am on the road, like Wilfrid was. I have written up some posts, including the description of lunch at Basildog's, on another computer and am having some technical problems with it.  Posting style is, as you know, particularly interesting in view of the Andrew threads.  

Your posts were wonderful and amused me (just as I was taking in some Pierre Herme patisseries no less).

[anil]

Basmati Rice: At least two three years after harvesting is considered good. I have an Uncle and his family and an aunt and her family, who live in DehraDun, considered home of basmati rice, where people, as suvir mentioned, store sacks of rice in a dark room (Kothri)

[Suvir Saran]

Basmati takes some time to age. How long? What exactly are the flavourings it is aged with?

A Pakistani friend shared her little secret for aging Basmati. She adds bay leaves, cardamoms and cloves in the rice. And a little salt and some saffron strands.

Her Biryani is the best I have ever had. And her rice is always the best. Even simple plain rice.