Laboratorio del Galileo

[Jinmyo]

I've read a few articles on Roberto Donna's restaurant (the "Laboratorio" or "workplace") within a restaurant (Galileo). The most recent is in the January/February issue of Food Arts.

Just curious to hear views.

[Steve Klc]

Jinmyo--Malawry has a fetching description of a dinner at Laboratorio here:

http://www.geocities.com/malawry/Laboratorio.html

My problem with Donna is that he found it a little too easy to coast in DC as a celebrity chef, allowed others to do the cooking for him for too long, and paid too little attention to his ever-burgeoning array of off-price eateries. For too many years, Phyllis Richman and others gave him a free pass and by and large, the DC media and dining clientele bought into it.  My reaction to the debut of the Laboratorio concept is that it's about time.  If the same media going ga-ga now over Laboratorio had ever speculated why DC didn't have more serious, sustained efforts like this, we might be on the leading edge rather than always behind the curve.

[Jinmyo]

A very interesting and well-done review by Malawry.

Yes, I gathered from Food Arts that he at one time had 12 restaurants and that even though he's done to two, people never think he's in town. So the Lab is one way of showing that he is. Look. Over there. Behind the glass.

[Malawry]

You guys beat me to the punch. I stand by everything I wrote in my review.

Donna does have his finger in too many restaurants around DC. I've never eaten anything worth returning for at any location of Il Radicchio. I work across the street   from Galileo but despite my good experience in the Laboratorio, I would not bother dining in the regular restaurant. (I keep telling myself that if I have a bad work morning I'll go get a glass of wine and a cheese plate at the bar for lunch, but I haven't had a work morning so bad that I'm ready to go for it.) I heard good things about Vivo when it opened, but I have since heard that there was a rapid decline in quality over there. Too bad, 17th Street could use something better.

But Laboratorio....ahhh, Laboratorio. I haven't eaten that many outstanding meals in general, but this was the most outstanding I've had yet. And I don't even eat the meat or fowl dishes everybody else was served.

[awbrig]

How hard is it to get into the Lab?

[Steve Klc]

Call them to see if they have a deuce when you'll be here: 202.293.7191

[awbrig]

No dice. Damn. Get you get me in Steve?

[Malawry]

When those seats are gone, they are gone. There is no squeezing in another table. But keep calling and checking if your heart's set there. Something might open up.

The one time I ate there, I made my reservation about a month in advance. I called a few days before to confirm and they had my name in the wrong book...the regular Galileo book instead of the Laboratorio book. I got really upset about it. I didn't yell or anything but I know my serious disappointment came across to the reservations person because she sympathetically asked me if it was a special occasion. I explained that it was my birthday. And it was after all their mess-up. She asked if she could call me back in a few minutes. I s'pose she called in a favor for me or something 'cause she called me back and said she could squeeze me in. Then, the night-of, the lab was not even packed 'cause one two-top cancelled at the last minute. So it hadn't been a big deal after all. And this was a "special" dinner, a white truffle meal in November. Keep trying, they might be able to fit you in especially if they know you are serious.

[mbthorpe]

Hi, I'm a newbie.

My husband and I had a similar experience to Malawry's - when we went to Laboratorio (5th anniversary dinner), there was an empty table due to a cancellation. You may want to try again the day you want to go, or even the evening of...

BTW, I had the truffle menu. It was marvelous. I would echo previous posters' comments re the main restaurant vs Lab - two different universes entirely!

[awbrig]

This is where I Need to go...

[Mark Sommelier]

I went to the Laboratorio this year for my birthday in April. There were 5 of us. There were only 13 people total in the room. We were pampered beyond belief. The service is smooth and professional. The wines were included. We were served 12 courses. Like boneheads, we couldn't keep our hands off the delicious breads. Roberto is a long time personal friend (I met him when he was a skinny 21 year old cooking at Romeo and Juliet), so maybe I am the slightest bit biased . Despite my ardent protestations, the entire room sang the damned happy birthday song. All in all, a night to remember.

[Busboy]

I've only been once -- got the truffle dinner, unbelieveable -- and my favorite part was hanging out by the prep area (out of the way) and watching Roberto do his think up close. I love watching the way a good chef moves, and he clearly was totally fixated on the dinner. I had to move off because I seemed to be making him nervous, and I wanted him focused on dinner, not asking me how I liked mine so far (how do you say "fabulous" in Italian?).

We called about three weeks in advance for a reservation, and they called a week early to tell us they had a table if we wanted it. Our speculation was that they keep a couple of tables free for last-minute VIPS. A tough table, but not impossible, I guess.

[Joe H]

I have got in the day before because of a cancellation. But, please, anyone on this board who goes-dress appropriately. This is a restaurant where virtually every man will wear a sportcoat. It is not a restaurant to wear khakies too. When spending $400 or more for a meal for two the expectation is that people will understand that appropriate dress is expected. It is also not a restaurant to nurse a single glass of wine. Rather, it is one to indulge and let the wine compliment the courses. There is a wine tasting menu for $60 per person that many will choose. Also, they have a $15 corkage charge which is remarkably low.

Sorry for my attitudes, but someone dressed inappropriately is disrespectful of Roberto and other diners.

[vengroff]

Joe,

In New York, people began to dress down a bit at top-end places when the big banks and law firms started going business casual. But as far as I can tell, that hasn't happened here. When I walk around downtown at lunchtime it looks like midtown or lower manhattan did in 1998. Everybody has a suit on. So why do they want to go casual at Laboratorio, Maestro, or Citronelle? (Does Citronelle still require jackets, or have they given in?) Do you have some insight, or just a warning that people should dress more appropriately?

[Joe H]

I have been to Maestro three times. Every time every single man in the room had at least a sportcoat on, most had ties. Citronelle,Laboratorio and The Inn at Little Washington are similar. The French Laundry, Gary Danko and others in S. F. have dress codes, the Prime Rib has a strict dress code. Throughout Europe it is usually Americans that "dress down." Even in the U. S. it is mostly southern California that is still somewhat casual although restaurants like Valentino have a dress code. With the demise of the dot.coms there has been a resurgence in dress whether in restaurants or in an office. Perhaps this is a reflection of my age (56) but I am sincerely offended when someone dresses so poorly in a top end restaurant. In my opinion that restaurant has no business letting the person in. (It is possible that the middle of, say, August can be a mitigating factor but I still know that the Prime Rib will require a jacket even if it is 106 degrees outside.)

This has been a flash point on Chowhound over the past several years with many people feeling as passionately as I do about this. The Manhattan board once had over 200 responses BEFORE being moved to General where another 150 were posted. The one question that really bothers me is that if I were a woman on a date knowing that I was going to, say, Citronelle or The Inn what would I really think if my date showed up in khakies or jeans? Would I be embarassed walking in the restaurant with him? Would I even go on the date? This is a statement of values and priorities as well as a reflection of a lifestyle along with consideration of others and respect for convention.

There is still much to be said for "dressing up," wearing the best outfit you have and going to a great restaurant. It is the overall experience. Not just the food or the wine.

[vengroff]

I have been to Maestro three times.  Every time every single man in the room had at least a sportcoat on, most had ties.

I guess you weren't there on the night in February when I was. There were a significant number of men in sweaters and slacks. I was new to DC at the time, and quite surprised.

I always wear suits to places like Maestro, but mainly just because I feel I tend to get better treatment.

[Beachfan]

\

There is still much to be said for "dressing up," wearing the best outfit you have and going to a great restaurant.  It is the overall experience.  Not just the food or the wine.

There's also a lot to be said for dressing down. Like Babbo, especially in summer. Sure a sport jacket and smart casual makes sense for an elegant evening, and I"ll occassionally wear a tie, but normally enjoy my meal more when I'm not wearing a tie.

Valentino doesn't enforce it's dress code by the way.

[ExpatRaver]

Having just left Europe after a three year stint there, I can safely say that slacks and sweaters are a staple of the twenty-something crowd. It really isn't the presence of a tie or jacket that declares whether or not you are acceptably dressed (though I personally sport both regularly), but how you wear what you are wearing. I regularly see diners all over DC wearing the latest European fashions, which, I might add, don't include ties so often anymore. I can certainly understand not wanting to allow someone wearing baggy pants or a t-shirt into a restaurant, but the dining experience is about relaxing, enjoying good food, wine, and company in an atmosphere in which you are comfortable. Were I a maitre'd, I would be less inclined to allow a man in a cheap, poorly fitted suit jacket and polyester tie in to dine than a man wearing a nice pair of slacks and a fashonable sweater. Insofar as I'm concerned if you, as a diner, are made uncomfortable by someone dressed in such a manner, you must not be paying enough attention to the food. Like my mother used to tell me, "Stop staring at people and eat your dinner."

[vengroff]

I'm not really interested in becoming a dining room fashion police officer. It's just that I was surprised by what I saw because I assumed that DC dining would be more formal than in NYC. I know the Euro look you're describing, Expat, but that wasn't the type of slacks and sweaters I saw.

[tjaehnigen]

I posted this a while ago over on VinoCellar (dined there in late May 2003), but I figured it would be a good idea to post this here as well. This was my first experience at the Laboratorio... Enjoy!

A Meal Ten Years In The Making…

Well, not really, but it was a special evening that Mrs. TJ and I were celebrating – our tenth wedding anniversary. After deciding to discard plans of possibly going to NYC to dine at the likes of Daniel and spending a romantic weekend away (perhaps seeing a show or maybe a performance by one of our favorite soloists (Gil Shaham)) or even staying reasonably local and dining/staying at The Inn At Little Washington (site of our seventh anniversary), we opted for the stay at home approach to save our pennies for Italy (where will travel to in the Fall). So, where to go in Our Nation’s Capital? So many choices in the city, so many more on the fringes. We’ve been to a number of the finer establishments, but we wanted this meal to be special – something we’d remember. I was my usual ‘can’t make a decision’ self, and the day was drawing close. When I told Mrs. TJ what I’d set up, the look on her face was priceless (imagine a jaw dropping). So, what bubbled to the top was….

The Laboratorio del Galileo!

Roberto Donna’s pride & joy. This is where one of the finest chefs in the USA gets to ‘play’ every night. I think he had more fun cooking, kibitzing, and joking with all of the diners than all the diners had eating his wonderful food and watching this mater practice his craft. This was going to be fun, fun, fun. But I am getting ahead of myself, now, aren’t I?

Bracing for our expected TWELVE COURSE meal, Mrs. TJ and I tried our best to not eat much that day. With 7:30 turned 8:30 reservations ( a mix-up I discovered just a few days before since the hostess had forgotten a class was being held that evening, too), we soon showed up with stomachs growling. The inevitable delays of a class (hey, Roberto was autographing aprons for that evenings’ students) caused the Laboratorio diners to be delayed by about 15-20 minutes. Our stomachs growled a bit more loudly, but were calmed a bit when served what at first I thought was champagne, but later realized was prosecco. Seeing food wander by to diners within the ‘regular’ Galileo restaurant made our stomachs find new strength, but, a few moments later, we were shown in.

Practically starving at this point, we flowed into the Laboratorio and were greeted by Roberto himself, “Buena Sera!” We sat at our specially selected Table #7 (as advised by folks over on chowhound.com) and we now had up front and in wide screen stereo seats to watch the show. (Only one minor problem with this table was there was a door right behind this table where some worker-traffic flowed.)

As we got acquainted with the view and the surroundings, some wonderful salty fried dough appeared at our table and paired perfectly with what remained of our prosecco. We had a full and unadultered view of the kitchen, the plating area, everything. Roberto & his assistants (one of them is Michel Richards’ son, Denes (I think)) were already busily working away, but made time to make us feel welcome. A wonderful assortment of breads also appeared (including this great pumpernickel-like mini-bun with dill and, I think some bacon fat (?!) baked in it (wow).

As we soaked in the whole atmosphere, one of the wait staff popped over to check out our wine that we brought. We gladly partook of the very reasonable $15 corkage fee and decided to bring a stunning 2000 Kistler Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay and a delicious Saffredi 1998 Maremma Toscanna (Fattoria le Pupille). . He quickly got the Kistler over to the chilling bin at the edge of the plating area and placed the Saffredi at the center table. This was a little disconcerting for me, since my seat was faced away from both of these places, but in the end there was nothing to fear. After we suggested he and Roberto each have a taste of both wines, I think he knew we were wine-os and he took care of us and our wine impeccably for the rest of the evening.

At this point, all of the other diners had been seated and the hum of conversation was going and there was excitement in the air. There palpable suspense about what gastronomic delights were headed our way. All the while we got to hear the banter of the staff and Roberto, lots of Italian but plenty of English too. I am not sure who could NOT love listening to the spoken Italian word – it’s like a song to me. Ah, but I am keeping you in suspense myself at this point! On to the meal!

Course #1 -- Peekytoe Crab Salad with Orange Dressing

Formed into a circle, the crab salad was topped with watercress and drizzled with a citrus (I could have sworn it was more lemony, but who knows!), er, drizzle. Very refreshing, very subtly layered flavors. Delicious. We finished of the last swallow of the Prosecco with this as the Kistler chilled away. Nice match again.

Course #2 -- Duck Liver Custard Brulee topped with Rhubarb Marmalade

This was very artfully displayed in mini crème brulee type dishes. The consistency of the custard was perfection. The rhubarb concoction proved to be a perfect foil to the richness of the custard. And I thought I wouldn’t dig the rhubarb (nothing like using the freshest stuff of the moment). This dish was superb. If I wasn’t dining with others in the room, I’d have picked up the dish and licked it clean. It was lipsmacking good, it was. The Kistler matched well here (even though the first glass was not quite chilled enough) as well.

Course #3 -- Morel Mushroom Soup with Fonduta Timbale, Pancetta, Crispy Onions and Shallot Blossoms

I have to borrow Mrs. TJ’s descriptor here… “This course was transcendent. The absolute best of the evening.” Adding to this, the layers of flavor of this dish were many and they all worked so well with each other. The delicious earthiness of the morels, the creaminess of the cheese timbale, the chewiness of the pancetta, the slight crunch of the onions and the otherworldly flavor of the shallot blossoms – wow. One of the best dishes ever – period. The Kistler really started to sing herethrowing a nuttiness into my tastebuds to add yet another layer. It would have been interesting to see how a pinot would have paired here, too.

Course #4 -- Tortelloni of Ricotta and Peas with Parmesan Sauce

“This course and the previous one began my downfall.” is how Mrs. TJ described this dish due to the absolute REQUIREMENT of plate cleanings with bread. The peas perfomed their function of freshening up the perfect hand made tortelloni. The sauce was that of the Gods. What is really funny is that the waiters started ribbing us about how clean our plates were. It was fun watching them whisk, whisk, whisk this sauce for what seemed like an eternity, too. I was reveling in the tastes of this course and I was ‘doing a little in my chair dance and tossed my head about slightly – a fact that did not go unnoticed by Roberto who said ‘No, you don’t a like this too much, no.’ with a big fat grin on his face.

Course #5 -- Eliche with Lamb Ragout

Mrs. TJ described this as ‘…a type of pasta that looked like DNA strands…’, I prefer the word ‘chromosomal’. This was a really good dish, but it’d been outclassed by the prior courses. Still, it was quite delicious and the layers of flavor were there. We had our first sips of the Saffredi with this course as we paused from soaking up our Kistler – paired really nicely.

Course #6 -- Risotto with Langostino and Fava Beans

Perfect risotto with plenty of fava beans and lots of fresh black pepper – the pepper made this course difficult to work with any wine, so I mostly enjoyed this with water. I really enjoyed this dish, too. I had almost forgotten, but Mrs. TJ pointed out, over in her post on chowhound.com, that ‘…(the waiters) started teasing us again -- “Look, they are no cleaning their plates anymore!”’ Too funny!

Course #7 -- Steamed Diver Scallop with Zolfini White Beans and Black Truffle Sauce

This was another splendiferous course. After popping over to ask the assistants what the heck they were doing with this smoky spray they sprayed on the dishes and then promptly wiped off prior to plating (apparently to make the dishes look as shiny perfect as possible believe it or not), we soon saw the fruits of their creativity. With bits of pancetta in with the beans, the scallop had a tremendous carmelization from being seared that added to the flavor joy ride of this course. With the waning bits of the Kistler (not really – I kept a teensy bit almost til the end a la how jb would do), I was in heaven.

Course #8 -- Roasted Breast of Squab over Sicilian Couscous & Asparagus

Couscous has this bizarre texture, in my opinion, but it’s always been an interesting ride. This dish was made all the more better by the sauce concoction that Robert had come up with – a mixture of cinnamon, cumin, coriander, a bit of vinegar, three or four more spices and an aptly named ‘squab juice’ coined by Donna himself. The squab was nicely dense, and countered by the deliciously fresh asparagus. Mmmmm.

Course #9 -- Cheese from the Cheese Trolley

I have not had much experience with the Cheese Course, but this was an interesting and educational one. The Cheese Cart was huge – easily 30+ cheeses seemed to be available. But we unfortunately did not get to pick what we got – instead, we got a ‘flight’ of four cheeses. This flight consisted of Ricotta Infornata Di Bari (made with sheep’s milk and similar in texture to a swiss or gruyere – very mild), Asagio Pressato (faint sweetness with a little bite – and delicious), English Stilton (very decadent and rich – some nice graininess, too – love that), and this crazy weird stuff called Bruss, which was fermented cow, goat and something else cheese made with a hint of grappa – very loose and mushy. This stuff was FUNKED OIUT and had a way to cling (flavor-wise anyway) to the bottm sides of your tongue. Very strange. With a quick chew of some fine mini-bread with what, a whole nut, baked in to it and it was cleansed out of our mouths.

Course #10 -- Frappe Bicerin

This was a ‘liquid’ course made up of espresso, rum, and chocolate. For anyone who loves chocolate & coffee together, you will be in Nirvana. This was a perfect prelude to the next two and final courses. Nice.

Course #11 -- Roasted Apricot Tart with Apricot Sauce, Dried Apricots, and Apricot Ice Cream

Sweet & tart and deliciously yummy. You could not go wrong with this course.

Course #12 – Bombolini

All good things must end, and so our meal did here with these precious little nuggets of dough peppered with sugar and WARM. Nice finish.

It is hard to express how much fun an evening this was. The banter with the chef and assistants, and the wait staff, the hum of the room, the looks that only old lovers who are also the best of friends can give one another, the charting of our history together (when Mrs. TJ asked what I remembered most fondly of our life together, I whipped out my four page list I’d been adding to for the past few weeks (as an aside, I did this same thing to her on our wedding day during the ceremony as a surprise)), the wine, suspending the disbelief of your taste buds, the food itself and so much more. It was a fantabulous evening that was also one that was at the same time very personal and one I will cherish for a long, long, long time.

This rates up there in my Top Four. I have a difficult time figuring out which of the Top Four I enjoyed more – our 7th anniversary at The Inn At Little Washington, our 9th anniversary at Citronelle, our Babbo Experience last fall and now this. A great, great evening in a relaxed, casual environment with the woman I love – man o man I am one lucky, lucky guy.

I would highly recommend dining here. You will not be disappointed in the slightest. In fact, we’re going back there, this time, later this year, to take a hands on class with Roberto Donna and LUNCH (my gift to Mrs. TJ (aside from Italy of course). Mrs. TJ’s gift to me, you ask? Only the most amazing sounding individually guided wine and medieval town tour – very cool.

[vengroff]

Thanks for the report, tjaehnigen, and welcome to eGullet.

I know you said you didn't want to rank them, so I won't ask you to, but since you have been to both Babbo and Laboratorio, I wonder if you could compare the style of cooking at the two of them.

[tjaehnigen]

That's a toughie as both were excellent and close to perfection. They are very similar in that they use the best ingredients, they keep their combinations, at a basic level anyway, simple, they do little to interfere or disguise the food's true flavor and satisfaction abilities and they plate a great presentation with great service. I'd say, from the one experience I have had with both places, that Babbo is a little more adventurous in ingredients and is a bit better and rendering the concept into reality. Don't get me wrong, Laboratorio is amazing. Laboratorio is just a teensy bit more conservative in the ingredients department and Donna tends to mix it up a bit more and tends to combine more things together than Batali does.

But honestly, both places and both chefs are truly excellent. I would not hesitate to go to either place again (hopefully sooner than later).

[Mark Sommelier]

Tj, go for lunch at Galileo and ask if they can make you a veal chop Milanese. Awesome dish, best deal in town. Don't go next week, though - Restaurant Week!

[tjaehnigen]

MS, that dish sounds great. Is it on the 'super secret menu' that most restaurants have?

I wish I had remembered about RW, we're heading to Palena next week for our inaugural dining experience there....

[Mark Sommelier]

MS, that dish sounds great. Is it on the 'super secret menu' that most restaurants have?

I wish I had remembered about RW, we're heading to Palena next week for our inaugural dining experience there....

Tj,

The veal chop was on the menu last time I had lunch there - for $16!!! A whole veal chop pounded, breaded and sautéed. Yum.

We went to Galileo mistakenly during RW last year. I had a great time - everyone else there looked miserable. Go figure.