Michelin-star restaurants in Eastern Europe?

[cevapcici]

Does anyone know of any restaurants in Eastern Europe that have earned a Michelin star so far?

Thanks!

[Gifted Gourmet]

just read the last paragraph! but, if Michelin wanted to check out Gundel Restaurant in Budapest, Hungary, it might not be such a bad idea ...

[albiston]

From what I've heard Michelin doesn't award stars in any region which it cannot cover properly for lack of reviewers/inspectors. I don't know what the situation in Eastern Europe is, but I'm quite sure that in Sweden, Finland and Norway only the restaurants in the respective capital cities are tested and therefore only these could be awarded stars. Any other restaurants are only mentioned in the guide but not graded.

I suspect the situation is not much different in Eastern Europe.

[Jon Tseng]

Nope, no mich guides in E Europe

To be honest you'd be scraping the barrel once you get beyond Vienna. I've travelled fairly extensively in East/Central Europe (am probably the only backpacker who deliberate goes to the most EXPENSIVE restaurant in town rather than the CHEAPEST) and in major cities you invariably find international-posh-business-class-restaurant-wannabees (think of this as the restaurant equivalent of a premium new-oaked international cab sav). In terms of quality the food is - at best - a *, but that's being charitable; generally they are at the rung immediately below.

The other thing to note is that even the best restaurants often lack the consistency which is so important to get a starred rating. One dish or two might be up to a * standard but the rest will let it down.

As for that Gundel review I suspect the reviewer is stark raving mad. It's nice, historic, touristy, business-expense-account focused but the food is * at the level best.

cheers

J

PS www.inyourpocket.com are the most reliable place I know for resto recs in east/central europe

Edited November 4, 2004 by Jon Tseng (log)

[Gifted Gourmet]

I would suggest that cities like Budapest and Prague might have better dining options were it not for living in the Communist bloc for so many long years .. now, since they are democracies and members of the European Union, they might hone their culinary talents more finely ..

all of this, of course, takes time to develop. When I was in both cities last year at this time, the citizens were basically begging for more tourism .. comparing themselves to nations like France and England .. the money needs to start flowing copiously from the tourists to make them rethink their culinary priorities ...

thank you, Jon Tseng, for this terrific website!

[Jon Tseng]

Yes, Budapest and Prague are best (and richest) places

Probably looking at Warsaw next (capital cities tend to attract all the investment...)

Then places start to become much of a muchness...

AVOID SLOVAKIA AND THE UKRAINE

J

Edited November 4, 2004 by Jon Tseng (log)

[Gifted Gourmet]

but, Jon, over time, some interesting dining may reemerge in the countries of eastern Europe ... none of this will happen in a fortnight ... and I do agree with you that capital cities do attract connoisseurs ... and money.

[Jon Tseng]

But NB fine dining driven by foregin business class diners not local money. This is true for virtually everywhere in E Europe - Moscow the possible exception (though haven't been)

Means no native demand for higher restaurant standards... makes more difficult for indiginous cuisine to (re)emerge. Need more popular demand for it to take off - this is very much what (finally) happened in London last fifteen years.

Also raft of other structural factors... need to have trained skilled chefs, wait staff etc. etc.

NB also this is more about fine/michelin dining. There is already good local/home cooking in eastern europe, although against consistency is an issue

J

[zaelic]

I would agree with John Tseng. Downtown Budapest is filling up with expensive, yet howlingly mediocre resturants that depend on business lunches and tourists, which have actually edged out the rather good (but never michelin star level) older restaurants that had been there since the communist era. Food was actually better during the communist era - not as broad a choice, no tuna tatare to speak of - but meats and vegtables were notably better.

Gundel is cute, but it is 90% attitude, history, and appearance and 10% chocolate crepes. Of course, it is very good, but none of my local friends consider it worth culinary hosannas. I live ten minutes walk from Gundels. There are three small, cheap family style eateries in my neighborhood I would immediately suggest for better Hungaruian food.

One of my old employers put it well - he said the restauranty experience in Budapest followed the Russian model: it was where new money went to show off money. It is not about food, it is about expensive surroundings, mini skirted waitresses, and high tabs that will impress whoever you have taken out that night.

[cevapcici]

I'm originally from Slovenia, and being familiar with the availability of great produce, meats, fish, wild game, it's curious that no one in that region has taken advantage of that and gone for a restaurant of a New York/London/Paris level in terms of high end dining, both in terms of cuisine and service. I am sure that there would be enough clientele, both local and tourist.