A Chat with Michael Landrum

[DonRocks]

Michael,

A couple followup questions and comments based on your latest replies:

Industry trends that belong in the trash are:

Chefs and owners who do not pay their employees, and even steal their gratuities outright, and piggishly enrich  themselves in an obscene gluttonous orgy of stolen wages and livelihoods.

Critics and the community continuing to support those vile thieves.

Chefs who claim that title over more than two establishments and reap the acclaim that comes from others' work without giving  the proper credit or  fairly sharing  the rewards.

The misappropiation and cynical cheapening of other cultures' heritages and cuisines.

Restaurants that treat any one group of guests differently at the expense of another group of guests.

Critics and the community continuing to cheer those above-mentioned trends.

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Here you've stated what, I believe, you're really wanting to say. But you've said it in such stately, noble terms that it has come across as entirely noncontroversial and inoffensive. That's fine, if this is what you choose to do. However...

Actually, I am surprised that my reponses were not challenged more.  What do I have to do to get a rise out of you guys, call my next restaurant DaSteaks???

No, to get a real rise, you're going to have to name names. And also...

The one thing I would like to change is this: 

Ownership and management are now so far removed from the people doing the work and the guests they serve. 

This denies the guest the real experience of hospitality and prevents the guest  from sharing and enjoying the fruits of the passion and dedication of those creating his meal and the service that frames and enhances it. 

In fact, that passion and dedication themselves are denied a place.

...

Today the corporate restaurant is a plantation system specifically designed to  deny that opportunity and prevent that advancement.  This fact, and its purveyors, sicken me.

If I do have a mission in what I do it is to deny the exploiters who run rampant in the industry today the ability to do business as usual and to bring back a sense of community, purpose and opportunity to the hospitality business by making ownership closer to those served and those who serve.

....

←

Here again you've dropped The Bomb, but have done so in such a non-offensive way that you're almost surely not going to create much controversy. All of this leads in to the following quote:

It would be rude of me in this forum, where I am a guest, to mention by name those of whom I speak. 

←

That is not true, Michael. You are a guest in this forum precisely because we wish you to speak your mind, and yes, this certainly means being more specific should you wish to.

So who are these thieves? And in what way do the critics and community support them?

Who are these multi-restaurant owning chefs who don't share with their employees?

Which restaurants cheapen other cultures and heritages?

What do you mean by "treating some guests differently than others," and which restaurants do you feel engage in this?

Which owners are so far removed from their staff that their restaurants are like "a plantation system?"

As moderator of these chats, and host of this forum, I want to stress to you there is no obligation or pressure to answer these questions, and this is your podium to answer however you'd like. But I sense a real desire coming from you to take off the gloves and let the punches fly, and wish to reassure you that IN NO WAY would you come across as a "poor guest in this house" by speaking your mind anyway you wish, even if that means criticizing me as a forum host, or anyone else in the industry as being guilty of the things you cite up above.

You mentioned continuing support from "critics and the community." You are, I believe, part of the community, so perhaps you'll look at this opportunity as "day one" of reversing the ongoing trend of support.

At some point, I will offer equal time to any person or establishment you choose to criticize, so you need not worry about lack of fairness.

This has been a fascinating chat so far, and I'm certain that every person on this forum would encourage you to speak freely, if that is what you wish to do.

I'm pretty sure I speak for everyone here in saying that you are doing a terrific job with this, and we all owe you a debt of gratitute for joining us.

Carry on Michael!

Rocks

[mnebergall]

Actually, I am surprised that my reponses were not challenged more.  What do I have to do to get a rise out of you guys, call my next restaurant DaSteaks???

Let me ask you a different question:

How did you come by your obvious reverence for a good piece of beef?

[morela]

Carry on Michael!

Rocks

←

Translation:

Saint Michael,

You're the good guy. No need to ask for forgiveness.

Lots of Love,

GOD

[Tweaked]

Gov. Arnold recently banned foie gras in California (starting in 2012), after that date only foie gras produced by humane means can be sold. Similar legislation will be introduced in New York, the location of the nation's only other foie gras producer.

what are your thoughts about "inhumane" food and the anti-glutton movement which is trying to ban a variety of foods (foie gras, chilian sea bass, swordfish etc.).

[JennyUptown]

There are whole discussions on these topics under General Foods, I do believe.

[rosebud]

One other question, which came up on another "chef" chat': What, if anything, do you do to accommodate kids, menu-wise?

[DonRocks]

X

[mnebergall]

X 

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Don:

I really admire your ability to convey so much information so concisely. A+

[bilrus]

I just saw an ad on TV that TGI Friday's is selling a Flat Iron steak slathered with their Jack Daniel's BBQ sauce.

Do you think this comes from the same animal as the ones served at Ray's?

[eatdrinkummm]

Hey Michael,

Thanks for chattin'.

A certain egullet revered chef, who shall remain anonymous for now, called your story the most interesting story of the D.C. dining scene. You've taken on the big boys, steak houses, and made steak and red, red wine more accessible. But isn't there a threat of becoming the Nader of the restaurant scene, the spoiler? I mean, apart from people who don't pay their employees, to a certain degree don't we need celebrity, pomp, ritual? Isn't dining vertical to begin with? We can eat at home, we go out to express more than our want for a good steak. My question can be expressed a little more directly:

Why can't we put on a show at restaurants and still give good food? Why strip away the fluff? Who's going to pay those expensive salaries for FOH people? Those nice suits?

Your man with the fauxhawk,

D (not naming names)

[landrumm2000]

X 

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I did. That is until I needed to come up with an extra special amuse for the eGullet dinner.

[landrumm2000]

I'll be back tomorrow to reply in depth and pith to these fascinating questions and others to come, I hope.

Still some hornets undisturbed in their nest it seems.

[landrumm2000]

Let me ask you a different question:

How did you come by your obvious reverence for a good piece of beef?

←

Asked and answered, counselor. See above.

My reverence is for the guests who keep my business alive by their presence.

If my guests came to me for possum, then you would find in my house a reverence for possum.

[landrumm2000]

Gov. Arnold recently banned foie gras in California (starting in 2012), after that date only foie gras produced by humane means can be sold.  Similar legislation will be introduced in New York, the location of the nation's only other foie gras producer. 

what are your thoughts about "inhumane" food and the anti-glutton movement which is trying to ban a variety of foods (foie gras, chilian sea bass, swordfish etc.).

←

Man reserves his greatest cruelties, and a special type of inhumanity, for those of his kind. Second only to these crimes is the wanton pleasure he takes in the destruction of nature.

A coward fights battles where they are easiest, or sends others in his place.

[morela]

Go outside Landrumm, enjoy the day. Put the top down and ride through the countryside.

[landrumm2000]

Hey Michael,

Thanks for chattin'.

A certain egullet revered chef, who shall remain anonymous for now, called your story the most interesting story of the D.C. dining scene. You've taken on the big boys, steak houses, and made steak and red, red wine more accessible. But isn't there a threat of becoming the Nader of the restaurant scene, the spoiler? I mean, apart from people who don't pay their employees, to a certain degree don't we need celebrity, pomp, ritual? Isn't dining vertical to begin with? We can eat at home, we go out to express more than our want for a good steak. My question can be expressed a little more directly:

Why can't we put on a show at restaurants and still give good food? Why strip away the fluff? Who's going to pay those expensive salaries for FOH people? Those nice suits?

Your man with the fauxhawk,

D (not naming names)

←

To me, there is no threat of anything in being honest, fair and commited.

Let the guest decide where he wants to eat and let the owner worry about how to run his house, for how ever long he has one.

My concern is not for FOH empty suits, but rather for front-line workers who bear the brunt and costs of exploitation.

[TrishCT]

I had the good fortune to dine at RTS on the first night of a recent DC trip. What a wonderful experience. You know how you get an "aha" light bulb moment when you realize you are in the midst of greatness? Well that's what I had. Throughout the meal, I kept thinking, "Michael Landrum is a chef that totally gets it!"

You give your guests so much to savor and enjoy... including a menu with a terrific variety of steak cut options, perfect meat preparation, and mashed potatoes like, well, like I make, which means they're damned good.

You are attentive to your grill and customers alike, ensuring an enjoyable experience for all. My husband said you reminded him of Rocco DiSpirito--pre "The Restaurant"... because you are talented, hard-working and have a special charisma. Thank you for the 2nd class E-G service. It was a true pleasure and we appreciated it.

I'm going to write a bit more about RTS on another thread I started because I want to also comment on other rec's given by DC'ers on this board. Thank you again, Michael, and best wishes for much more success!

[fero style]

My husband said you reminded him of Rocco DiSpirito--pre "The Restaurant"... because you are talented, hard-working and have a special charisma. 

Its true Rocco has got talent and special charisma but I dont really agree how hard working Rocco was , we`ve seen that on Tv and after closing the restaurant.

he was just pretending like it was a hard work for him I guess.

and for some reason I was getting really mad at him because he was wasting all those peoples energy and time for his fame

[TrishCT]

Its true Rocco has got talent and special charisma but I dont really agree how hard working Rocco was , we`ve seen that on Tv and after closing the restaurant.

he was just pretending like it was a hard work for him I guess.

and for some reason I was getting really mad at him because he was wasting all those peoples energy and time for his fame 

←

I think pre-Restaurant he garnered a great deal of respect. With Chef Landrum you have a different caliber professional all the way. Very exciting to witness.

[landrumm2000]

Michael,

A couple followup questions and comments based on your latest replies:

Here you've stated what, I believe, you're really wanting to say.  But you've said it in such stately, noble terms that it has come across as entirely noncontroversial and inoffensive.  That's fine, if this is what you choose to do.  However...

No, to get a real rise, you're going to have to name names.  And also...

Here again you've dropped The Bomb, but have done so in such a non-offensive way that you're almost surely not going to create much controversy.  All of this leads in to the following quote:

That is not true, Michael.  You are a guest in this forum precisely because we wish you to speak your mind, and yes, this certainly means being more specific should you wish to.

So who are these thieves?  And in what way do the critics and community support them?

Who are these multi-restaurant owning chefs who don't share with their employees?

Which restaurants cheapen other cultures and heritages?

What do you mean by "treating some guests differently than others," and which restaurants do you feel engage in this?

Which owners are so far removed from their staff that their restaurants are like "a plantation system?"

As moderator of these chats, and host of this forum, I want to stress to you there is no obligation or pressure to answer these questions, and this is your podium to answer however you'd like.  But I sense a real desire coming from you to take off the gloves and let the punches fly, and wish to reassure you that IN NO WAY would you come across as a "poor guest in this house" by speaking your mind anyway you wish, even if that means criticizing me as a forum host, or anyone else in the industry as being guilty of the things you cite up above.

You mentioned continuing support from "critics and the community."  You are, I believe, part of the community, so perhaps you'll look at this opportunity as "day one" of reversing the ongoing trend of support.

At some point, I will offer equal time to any person or establishment you choose to criticize, so you need not worry about lack of fairness.

This has been a fascinating chat so far, and I'm certain that every person on this forum would encourage you to speak freely, if that is what you wish to do.

I'm pretty sure I speak for everyone here in saying that you are doing a terrific job with this, and we all owe you a debt of gratitute for joining us.

Carry on Michael!

Rocks

←

The criticism voiced by me in this chat has been a condemnation of business practices that are shamefully too common in the industry and that go unchallenged far too often by those who are in a position to know better.

I have mentioned and lauded many positive aspects of the heart and soul of this business--the people who care--and that is what I want to have stand as the result of this chat.

The debt of gratitude is mine for allowing me this forum and inviting me into your "house" for the chance to interact with the community in a much more direct fashion.

[landrumm2000]

One other question, which came up on another "chef" chat':  What, if anything, do you do to accommodate kids, menu-wise?

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We are happy to split any item for kids to share, since we custom-cut our steaks we are happy to cut a smaller steak (or for mnebergall's kids, a larger steak), and we never charge for sides if that's all they want.

[rosebud]

Thanks, Michael. That was a fat one down the middle of the plate if you cared to hit it out of the ball park, so to speak. I won't be showing up at your place with any children in tow, but just wondered if you would take the bait and either wax poetic on the subject of raising kids to eat properly or to entertain us with tales of outrageous requests. You appear to be willing to comply with whatever your customers want, and I can appreciate that.

[DonRocks]

The debt of gratitude is mine

←

No Michael, the debt of gratitude is ours.

This was a red-meat chat (I'll spare you further puns such as how "rare" it is to find someone as engaging as you).

The defining aspect of this interview was that we got to see glimpses of the real Michael Landrum, firing up the grill and tempering a ferocious, perhaps even heroic, individuality with elegance and politesse.

When Michael and I were arranging this, he insisted that we wait for several days after the chat with Tom Power had ended, because he felt that would be a proper gesture of respect to one of the great chefs in Washington. There was no fanfare or drama in this statement; it was just Michael being Michael.

Can you imagine Arlington without Rays The Steaks?

I'm certain I speak for everyone when I say thank you very much for being here, and just for being - once you've tasted prime, there's no going back.

[tanabutler]

Chef, I don't know you, have never been to Washington, D.C., and am sitting out here on the Left Coast howling at the moon with utter pleasure at your contribution to this board.

You are not only generous, but you are very very very funny.

I hope to visit your place one day, but please don't serve me that second "special" amuse. (Not that there's any left after Don got through.)

Thanks again for such a worthwhile read.