Strasbourg on the way north!

[Bernaise]

Hello to all of the hard-working French eaters -a full time job indeed!

I will be in Strasbourg and the vicinity = Sarreguemines in the first few days of October before heading out for Italy. I was wondering if anyone had any information about where to eat and/or any local specialities I simply cannot pass up? Perhaps there are some local fairs/ harvest festivals etc.? Little known but fabulous restaurants?

Any and all tips appreciated

[42390]

Auberge du Cheval Blanc (2 stars) in Lembach is fabulous. Here is a link: Cheval Blanc

Please go. You will enjoy it tremendously.

[jamiemaw]

Bernaise,

One of the best meals we've taken in France recently was at L'Arnsbourg , about 40 minutes northwest of Strasbourg, up the A4. You can find their website here

Don't be put off by the three Michelin stars--it's a relaxed and modern room (set in a lovely field) with a relaxed and modern menu. And at about 55 to 110 Euros for the prix fixe at dinner, a relative bargain. There are often special value cards at lunch.

Jean-Georges Klein, the chef-proprietor, and his wife Cathy (who speaks very good English) are a pleasure. We were there for the Relais Gourmands convocation; Cathy booked us into a nearby inn that was just fine.

It's closed Tuesday-Wednesday.

I hope you can make it.

Cheers,

Jamie

Edited September 2, 2004 by jamiemaw (log)

[kerriar]

The choice you make will depend to a great extent on where you stay – do you want to spend a night in this most distinctive French city or is the Alsace countryside that attracts? Sarreguemines is probably 100 km from Strasbourg – about an hour by motorway with I think just one péage.

Sarreguemines is an industrial city and I'm not sure if you'll want to spend any more time there than you need to. It certainly has no reputation as a tourist destination but you will be fairly near some of the most attractive countryside and towns of eastern France.

If you want something which is typical of Alsace and Strasbourg, then go to a winestub of which there are plenty. Top of any list will be the inevitable Chez Yvonne (the name over the door is S'Burjerstuewel, but nobody ever uses it – and yes, there is a real Yvonne but I think she has now retired), near the cathedral in Strasbourg. It is always lively and charming and the slightly kitschy veneer only enhances the athmosphere. The food is very definitely a "cuisine de terroir" and you will be hard pressed to find anything more Alsatian. The menu is fairly short and never seems to change – baeckeoffe, choucrout, quenelles de foie, etc. There is a selection of about 12 or 15 good Alsace wines by the glass or pichet. The choice of bottled wines is limited but quality and prices are way above average – e.g. Ostertag, Zind-Humbrecht at something close to shop prices. If you are there during the weeks when the European Parliament is sitting, a reservation is essential. Anybody who eats there frequently must have interesting arteries.

For a more classic French style, Beurehiesel and Au Crocodile no doubt deserve their stars and I have eaten well and enjoyably in the latter on several occasions. They are both favoured spots for well heeled political lobbyists – this will give you some indication of the style to expect. They are also expensive – the bill will be a multiple of what you pay in Yvonne's and I don't recall seeing any authentic baeckeoffe on the menu. Outside Strasbourg, I really know the southern Vosges much better than the northern area where you are heading. I drive through this area a few times a year and have generally not stopped north of Strasbourg. Perhaps it's time to change this habit - Cheval Blanc and l'Arnsbourg both sound worth visiting so thanks to 42390 and jamiemaw for widening the horizon.

I can't finish off without a word about l'Auberge de l'Ill at Illhaeusern between Strasbourg and Colmar. For me, it must rank as one of the great dining experiences not just of France, but of Europe. It is stylish, luxurious, relaxed – go there with someone you really care about and you will have a memory for life. The food, - I took no notes but look, it's been reviewed many times and by better hands than mine (but strangely, not on eGullet as far as I can see) – for instance see http://observer.guardian.co.uk/foodmonthly...,807508,00.html but you will find many more. It's probably given me the most expensive bills I have ever paid – but I can't wait to go back again.

[Bernaise]

I am constantly impressed with the enthusiasm and generosity of the people who participate in this forum! Thank-you so much for all of the information, suggestions and links. I just knew someone here would know where to find fine food in the Alsace region.

[pim]

The three star to go to is Le Buerehiesel.

The two star to avoid is Julien.

Also you might want to drop by La Fromagerie des Tonneliers, lovely selection of farmhouse and artisanal cheese--or if you are a big cheese fan, perhaps the sister restaurant La Cloche à Fromage.