Battery Gardens

[oakapple]

The fine restaurants south of Chambers Street can be counted on the fingers of one hand, making any new arrival in this neighborhood a news event. Battery Gardens is a recent arrival, occupying the space that was formerly American Park. It's located in Battery Park, just steps away from the Staten Island and Statue of Liberty ferries.

The space has been remodeled in pale greens, paper-thin white shear curtains, marble table-tops, and plush ultra-comfortable off-white slipper chairs. It reminded us either of a 1930s cruise ship or a movie star's boudoire; we weren't sure which. The dining room offers floor-to-ceiling picture window views of New York Harbor and the Statue of Liberty. There is an ample outdoor dining area, with an open-air bar.

The menu is a serious one, under the direction of executive chef Tommy Lee, who comes to Battery Gardens from the Pierre Hotel. Per the website, "Specializing in American continental cuisine, his menus reflect his Korean heritage and vast knowledge of seafood."

Appetizers and salads are $8-15 (most under $12). Soups are $5-7. The menu offers several gourmet pizzas at $10-12, meat entrées ($17-27), pasta ($14-16), and fish ($18-26). There is also a raw bar, with Little Neck Clams ($7/half-dozen), Blue Point Oysters ($12), or Fruits of the Sea ($30, $55 or $75). The fish category on the menu offers the most choices, which is unsurprising given the chef's background and the location of the restaurant.

I started with the Grilled Diver Sea Scallops ($10), which are served with Spicy Asian Peanut Sauce and Red Cabbage Slaw. This came with three scallops, and the inspiration to serve it with asian peanut sauce was heavenly. For the main course, I chose the Miso Glazed Chilian Sea Bass ($25), which comes with Jasmine Rice, Sesame Hinted Shitakes and Green Beans. The miso glazing was just hinted at (as opposed to Nobu's version of it, where it's far more powerful), but this allowed the beautiful flaky fish to do the talking. It was an enormous portion, which I devoured.

My friend started with the Tempura Sampler, which isn't currently shown on the website. It came with 7 or 8 tempura pieces — a mixture of potatoes, shrimp, and chicken with a tangy dipping sauce. I tried a few pieces myself, and it really was done to perfection, although the sauce perhaps was a bit too ordinary. She continued with the Pan Seared Tuna ($24), which (per the website) came with Corn Fritters, Red Onion and Tomato Salad, Cilantro-Chili Aioli. This was a nearly porterhouse-sized portion, which she enjoyed, but I found it a bit blander preparation than the sea bass.

There were some service glitches. When we arrived, they took my order for a cocktail, but neglected to ask about a glass of wine with dinner. By the time they got around to it, I was nearly finished eating. Two cups of decaf coffee arrived lukewarm. When we asked for fresh cups, they returned a bit warmer, but still shy of the correct temperature.

Battery Gardens hasn't been "discovered" yet. On a Saturday evening (8:00pm reservation), it was less than half full. One very large, elegantly-dressed party seemed to be having a celebration. Most of the other diners seemed to be at least "smartly" dressed, suggesting they considered their visit here a night on the town. My friend and I came casual, but we did not feel out-of-place.

Battery Gardens offered us a thoroughly enjoyable meal, with dramatic views to match. On a nice evening (which regrettably this wasn't), a scenic walk along the Battery Park esplanade would be the perfect nightcap. In any event, Battery Gardens offers serious food in a locale where there has historically been precious little of it. I hope the restaurant succeeds.

Edited August 18, 2004 by oakapple (log)

[Suzanne F]

Damn! but I wish they'd proofread the menu. What a mess. Grrrrr.

And am I missing something, but what is "traditional" about Middle Eastern spicing in beef tartare, or . . .

oh, nevermind.

Anyway, thanks for the report, Oakapple. I suspect that it will stay less than half-full for many reasons, not the least of which is that it's a venue for tourists, and only a very small percentage of them would be willing to pay those prices. But I still might check it out.

[Bux]

And am I missing something, but what is "traditional" about Middle Eastern spicing in beef tartare, or  . . . 

oh, nevermind. 

Or when they say

"Specializing in American continental cuisine, his menus reflect his Korean heritage and vast knowledge of seafood."

I'd like to know whch continent.

I don't know what tourists pay for dinner, but if the food is serious, the price is certainly not out of line. At $10 for the appetizer and $25 for the main course (and that's towards the high end quoted) I expect serious food, but not necessarily great food. As I look at the online menu, I see far less expensive options and it looks as if one can graze and get out of there with a tab not much higher than in a diner. I may be over reacting to the post than to the prices, but I probably expect a little better service than they have at the moment. My personal preference is probably towards an emphasis on wine not cocktails, but that's more of a subjective thing and tourists of all ages seem more intent on cocktails than wine in NY. Please don't read a value judgement in that although you're welcome to tell me that tourists over forty drink wine as often as natives. I have no idea if the location is a good one or not, but would it would probably have to be a destination restaurant for me at that location. There are many people who live much closer than I do and plenty of people who work downtown as well as hotels downtown, however.

[oakapple]

Sad to say, but service glitches such as I described are common in New York at this price range. See, for instance, the thread on two-star Artisanal, which is probably a tad pricier than this place. Of course, during a 60-90 minute visit, you tend to note (and hence, report) the things they did wrong, and pass without notice the many they did right.

I have no idea if the location is a good one or not, but would it would probably have to be a destination restaurant for me at that location. There are many people who live much closer than I do and plenty of people who work downtown as well as hotels downtown, however.

In the location, I would expect Saturday and Sunday to be their slowest days. Indeed, many downtown restaurants simply don't open on weekends, aside from the Seaport and Battery Park City, where there are large tourist and resident populations respectively.

At the location, they're fairly convenient to the row of office towers along Water Street, and I wouldn't be surprised if their lunch business equals or exceeds their dinner business.

[Bux]

Sad to say, but service glitches such as I described are common in New York at this price range. See, for instance, the thread on two-star Artisanal, which is probably a tad pricier than this place.

I think I never recovered from the intial sense I had after reading "fine" and "serious" and that it was compounded by Suzanne's comment that it was outside the range of tourists. In fact I edited my post with the comment about prices after I went to the web site just before I posted, but the bulk of my comments were made thinking it's a $45 three course dinner, which still isn't expensive for NY.

[oakapple]

I think I never recovered from the intial sense I had after reading "fine" and "serious" and that it was compounded by Suzanne's comment that it was outside the range of tourists.

I see your point. I meant "fine" and "serious" compared to the rest of what's available below Chambers Street. This isn't Babbo.

I think there are some pretty expensive places that draw very heavily from the tourist crowd. The question is whether that formula will work in this particular location.

[Suzanne F]

I'm just wondering how, given that the menu is literally all over the map without any particular distinguishing features ("Grilled Branzini $22.00

Isreali cous cous, Citrus Dressing, Peppernade" --- ), they will position themselves as a destination for anything beside the view. Other than Bayard's, and maybe some place at the Ritz Carlton, true, there just isn't real fine-dining down here to draw people from other neighborhoods, and my guess is that most "neighborhood" people (the closest identifiable nabe being BPC) go uptown. I know I do -- even as far as Soho. (The only times I went to American Park were for functions.)

When I said it was not likely to be a tourist venue, I was thinking of the vast majority of folks I see when I'm walking around down there: either they look/sound as though they'd be more comfortable hitting the Applebee's or Chevy's at BPC, or that they might want someplace better known and better established if they're going to spend real money.

And if a key to success is repeat business, this place is just not positioned to get it from locals OR from visitors.

[alacarte]

I went by Battery Park on Sunday and checked out the brunch menu -- pretty mundane stuff (eggs benedict, minute steak and eggs), with a $25 pre-fixe price tag. The area was TEEMING with tourists, not surprising b/c it was a lovely day.