A Chat with John Wabeck

[DonRocks]

I'd like to welcome John Wabeck, Executive Chef at Firefly restaurant, as our next guest on the DC & DelMarVa forum.

John Wabeck?

Yes, our own John Wabeck, who will now be free to answer questions about himself, his restaurant, and what makes him tick.

John graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and then cooked at Red Sage before becoming Sous Chef at 1789. He worked as Sous Chef at Asia Nora beginning in 1996 before landing his first Executive Chef position at Nora where he remained for almost two years. His first tenure in Washington, D.C. ended with eighteen months as Executive Chef at New Heights.

Bitten by the wine bug, John went to Napa Valley and briefly worked at the fine Darioush Winery, then accepted a position as Executive Chef of Brix Restaurant where he happened to cook for Phyllis Richman, who put him in touch with the Vice-President of Marketing for the Kimpton Group of restaurants.

Nine months later, he was on a plane heading back to his native Washington (actually, John grew up in Salisbury, Maryland), and took a position as Executive Chef in charge of the Kimpton Group's four DC hotel-restaurants: Topaz, Rouge, Helix and Firefly, later becoming the Executive Chef exclusively at Firefly.

In 2003, John won the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington's Rising Culinary Star award (passing the torch this year to Jonathan Krinn at 2941). He is one of the most sought-after chefs in all of Washington, D.C., often making guest appearances with other great chefs, and is also a popular and well-liked ambassador and friend.

John, welcome in your "official" role here, and let me kick things off with a question: I got tired just typing in all the things you've done. Is it typical for a young chef to bounce around like this in the early part of their career before settling down for the long-haul? And to bring more immediacy to the question, what do you want to do in the future?

[docsconz]

John,

Unfortunately, I don't get down to DC terrribly often. Unfortunate because there are a number of restaurants there I would love to try, including Firefly. Can you describe your culinary philosophy and style? What kind of food do you really enjoy cooking and how do you incorporate wine into your cuisine?

[John W.]

Is it typical for a young chef to bounce around like this in the early part of their career before settling down for the long-haul?  And to bring more immediacy to the question, what do you want to do in the future?

Don;

I think it's typical among sous chefs to move around, I think my "bouncing around" was a lot slower than most. It was very important to me to do a year wherever I went. At least. You learn as much as you can from the chef you are working for, then go out and work for someone else and learn as much as you can from them. Repeat until you think you have enough knowledge to do it as chef.

As for my immediate future, I plan on going to lunch at Equinox today. Past that, I can't really say. I'd love to do something on my own, and with the financial experience I am getting running Firefly as GM (my other job), feel comfortable making the leap now. Opening the four places (Topaz/Rouge/Helix/Firefly) was incredibly eye-opening as to how much openings cost, how quickly things can spiral out of control financially, and how much they are not like "The Restaurant."

I do know this as to my future: It will include wine.

[JPW]

John,

One of the things that I admire about your cooking is the attention paid to the quality of ingredients. I still dream of the smoked duck breast salad.

Where do you provision your stuff around DC (especially relevant if it's open to public)?

Is it easier today than it used to be to find top-notch-kick-ass supllies around DC?

PS - Unfortunately my surburban life, impending child, and budget conspire against my ability to come down to Firefly as much as I'd like, but I'll see you soon!

[John W.]

John,

Unfortunately, I don't get down to DC terrribly often. Unfortunate because there are a number of restaurants there I would love to try, including Firefly. Can you describe your culinary philosophy and style? What kind of food do you really enjoy cooking and how do you incorporate wine into your cuisine?

Doc;

It is really hard to pin down my style, as it changes depending on the concept. The common thread among the places I've worked as chef has been making things taste as they should, with any component being complimentary to the main item. I take a very minimalist approach to most things.

I really enjoy cooking everything. Even the fried oysters that I want to take off every menu change. Green vegetables to see how green you can get them. Perfect scallops. Braises.

As for wine, it's turned from a tasty beverage I enjoy at dinner to a very big part of my life. I emphasize primal flavors here, which I feel makes it much easier to pair wines with. There's not much subtlety here, so when having our lamb dish, if you like pinot, have pinot. If you like merlot, have merlot. I will admit to tailoring the menu to go best with Pinot. And I will also admit to the wine list driving the menu.

[HOOLIGAN]

If and when Jamison and I leave Nectar for a new place I know we both are going to take several months off to eat and stage around the world. Is there any places you would like to go work with, be it pesron, restaurant or winery before you take that leap?

[John W.]

If and when Jamison and I leave Nectar for a new place I know we both are going to take several months off to eat and stage around the world. Is there any places you would like to go work with, be it pesron, restaurant or winery before you take that leap?

Working at a winery would be difficult as I'm not, or going to be, a winemaker. But let's choose Georges de Vogue, F. Mugnier, N. Joly. I'd love to hang out a season with Darioush (I know them well enough to not get in the way, I can rack and top and bottle, but past that am worthy only to shine the 10,000 gallon fermenters).

People and restaurants on the other hand...

Thomas Keller (washing dishes, it doesn't matter)

Charlie Trotter's (as a sommelier stage)

Would love to spend a season with Allen Meadows tasting in the motherland

Michel Bras, Gagnaire, Tetsuya, Gordon

For re-charging purposes, go back to school and work with my old sous chef at Red Sage, Bill Phillips, the guy who gets most of the credit as to what little I've accomplished. I think he's still doing Escoffier Room. Just being in the same room with him is hugely motivating.

[morela]

Here's a quickie, as I'm busying surfing the net with The Other Don Rockwell

What did you have for lunch today? Did everyone stay awake? I know those juicy Monday lunches can be long.

More

[John W.]

Here's a quickie, as I'm busying surfing the net with The Other Don Rockwell

What did you have for lunch today? Did everyone stay awake? I know those juicy Monday lunches can be long.

More

Lunch at Equinox was brilliant, thanks for asking.

Lots of Burgundy, which always makes for a great breakfast, lunch and/or dinner.

JPW always goes on about the duck salad we do at Firefly, go there and have Equinox's version. Also had a poularde canneloni, which was great. Very fine chicken mousse, wrapped in pasta, baked, served with a sauce of red and yellow peppers, super reduced chicken stock and butter.

Everyone stayed awake.

[John W.]

John,

One of the things that I admire about your cooking is the attention paid to the quality of ingredients. I still dream of the smoked duck breast salad.

Where do you provision your stuff around DC (especially relevant if it's open to public)?

Is it easier today than it used to be to find top-notch-kick-ass supllies around DC?

PS - Unfortunately my surburban life, impending child, and budget conspire against my ability to come down to Firefly as much as I'd like, but I'll see you soon!

I don't really buy from anybody different than anyone else. Keany for produce, Samuel and Son seafood from Philly (if you ask nicely they'll send a driver to pick up some steaks from Gino's or Pat's, I prefer Pat's). I buy from farms when I can. We can't afford to buy stuff from the super-premium places, and the restaurant rarely sees wild mushrooms. I do, however spend a lot of time dealing with above purveyors on quality. It's very expensive to re-send a truck out if the produce company sent me crap spinach, so they realize they need to get it right the first time. I hate to have to call them to re-send two bunches of basil (well, not that much), but I will. I've dealt with my fish company (S+S) since I was at Nora. Sammy has put fish that got missed in the trunk of his car and drove it down here from South Philly on Saturday afternoon more than once. Service like that goes far with me.

I think the quality of stuff in DC has improved, but what I would really like to see (and I'm seeing the beginnings of this movement) from these guys, especially produce, is more variety of stuff. The reluctance to bring in a specialty product because it won't sell does not hold merit anymore. DC diners are demanding more than meat and potatoes these days.

[Minister of Drink]

John,

Several times over the last few weeks I have seen you indulging at Teasim on R street (honestly, I am not stalking you--but I go to Teasim everyday and have been to Firefly many times--so you are recognizable).

Since you seem to love tea, I was just wondering if you plan on offering a bigger selection of teabags at Firelfy?????

[John W.]

John,

Several times over the last few weeks I have seen you indulging at Teasim on R street (honestly, I am not stalking you--but I go to Teasim everyday and have been to Firefly many times--so you are recognizable).

Since you seem to love tea, I was just wondering if you plan on offering a bigger selection of teabags at Firelfy?????

Nope. Tea is out. Coffee.

Try something else pal.

[laniloa]

If you were to open a kitchen accessories store, what would you call it????

[Ralph Wiggum]

John,

Is there any dish on your menu right now that you enjoy making more than others? If someone were dining at Firefly tonight, what would you recommend that they order?

[John W.]

If you were to open a kitchen accessories store, what would you call it????

Maybe something original like "John's Country Kitchen."

Not touching this one.

[John W.]

John,

Is there any dish on your menu right now that you enjoy making more than others? If someone were dining at Firefly tonight, what would you recommend that they order?

I like this menu. Often, there's a few dishes that I hate but they sell so I don't take them off. I typically work saute for lunch, our pasta (mushroom cacciatore type thing) is my most enjoyable dish. To get the sauce just right every time takes some discipline. As an added bonus, I'm allergic to mushrooms, so tasting every one (which I do) is like playing with fire.

Honestly, if you wanted me to recommend something, I'd ask what you were drinking.

[laniloa]

Honestly, if you wanted me to recommend something, I'd ask what you were drinking.

OK- so what should I be drinking and then what should I pair it with?

[John W.]

Honestly, if you wanted me to recommend something, I'd ask what you were drinking.

OK- so what should I be drinking and then what should I pair it with?

Off the top of my head: The grilled lamb minute steak with Tillamook mac-n-cheese. Drink the 2001 Yering Station Shiraz from Yarra Valley Australia (I think 5% viognier blended in, not 15% alcohol, not blueberry syrup shiraz). I really like the wine, I really like lamb, everyone wins.

Or, have the soft shells with quinoa and buerre blanc with the 1997 Savenierres, because you can't have enough chenin blanc.

Fried oysters with Camille Saves brut rose (grand cru).

Salmon gravlax with Crenshaw melon and the 2001 Kelham Cellars Sauv. Blanc.

[DonRocks]

John, one thing I've gleaned from you is how important you think it is to pay your respects to other chefs and restaurants in town - you seem to view it as a matter of honor as much as anything. Would you expand on this?

[FunJohnny]

If and when Jamison and I leave Nectar for a new place I know we both are going to take several months off to eat and stage around the world. Is there any places you would like to go work with, be it pesron, restaurant or winery before you take that leap?

NOOO! Verboten!

But seriously, John I am very much looking forward to my first of what I hope will be many great meals at Firefly later this week. As an amateur cook, I am very much affected by the seasonal availability of some things -- around here that would be mostly fruits and vegetables. I often experience a feeling of regret as late October comes and the good stuff dwindles. Have you had much experience with preserving summer's bounty in any way shape or form?

Edited August 10, 2004 by FunJohnny (log)

[Nadya]

John, one thing I've gleaned from you is how important you think it is to pay your respects to other chefs and restaurants in town - you seem to view it as a matter of honor as much as anything. Would you expand on this?

To build on this, and considering the unfortunate trend of chefs putting down other chefs, is there anyone in this town whose cooking you admire?

Secondly, would you give any advice to someone who would like to become a more sophisticated wine drinker?

Now, if I could only have some tips on increasing my tolerance for alcohol...I seem to be useless after two glasses, and it is hurting my social standing

[dscott]

John, to the extent that you're willing to divulge...

your lamb minute steak is fantastic. Even my lamb-hating wife enjoyed tasting mine. My questions are:

-what cut is it?

-how do you prepare/cook it?

Again, fantastic stuff. Thanks for creating such a wonderful atmosphere and wonderful food.

[John W.]

John, one thing I've gleaned from you is how important you think it is to pay your respects to other chefs and restaurants in town - you seem to view it as a matter of honor as much as anything.  Would you expand on this?

It's really tough to explain. It's just how I am. And I wasn't always like this. I can't put my finger on an event that changed my behavior.

The answer could be as simple as I treat people how I'd like to be treated. Or it could be that the chef community in this city is pretty tight.

[John W.]

John, one thing I've gleaned from you is how important you think it is to pay your respects to other chefs and restaurants in town - you seem to view it as a matter of honor as much as anything.  Would you expand on this?

To build on this, and considering the unfortunate trend of chefs putting down other chefs, is there anyone in this town whose cooking you admire?

Secondly, would you give any advice to someone who would like to become a more sophisticated wine drinker?

Now, if I could only have some tips on increasing my tolerance for alcohol...I seem to be useless after two glasses, and it is hurting my social standing

If I list people and somebody is not on there, they get pissed off (really). Let me say this as a broad, ass-kissing statement. I started cooking in DC in 1992. I am quite proud of how far this city has come culinarily. The level of dining has increased immensely. The competition has too. That can only be good.

As for wine, keep drinking. It does amazing things for your tolerance too.

Off the top of my head, buy How to Taste by Jancis Robinson. Do the side-by -side comparisons. You can really develop the understanding of why the world's wines taste as they do. That to me is very important. You can take the wine list with confidence when your table says "I want X."

[John W.]

John, to the extent that you're willing to divulge...

your lamb minute steak is fantastic. Even my lamb-hating wife enjoyed tasting mine. My questions are:

-what cut is it?

-how do you prepare/cook it?

Again, fantastic stuff. Thanks for creating such a wonderful atmosphere and wonderful food.

Lamb is simple, but it's a definite butcher's cut. It's from the leg, the butcher cuts cross-sections with a band saw. We could never do that here (no band-saw).

Olive oil, salt and pepper, on the grill, for a minute (give or take). Let it rest.