A Chat with Gillian Clark

[Gillian Clark]

Overall, my impression is that you are unorthodox and brave.

Unorthodox? I don't think so. I am such a traditionalist. Robin makes fun of me because while every other cook in town is wearing all of those chili peppers, fish, bread basket, wacky chef pants; I have always worn houndstooth. I've worn black this year...that was a big step.

Brave? Or maybe just a little naive and at times desperate. Some of my best food came from being the only one in the kitchen all day long and needing a soup before 5. Being naive I have gone places, and said things and wound up places I would not have ordinarily.

Oh...I made a crack about your chicken you posted a picture of on the site. I used you in an anology.

[Gillian Clark]

Good Morning Folks,

Just wanted to add to my list of places we go to eat. We eat so much American food at Colorado K. We often crave something Asian. I really enjoy Sakana and Nams of Bethesda. Pizza Paradiso also counts me as a regular.

[mr food]

Ms. Clark,

thanks for your response. I'll be sure to send a glass of something good back your way when I visit (if you drink alcohol). This chat has been extremely interesting.

[Gillian Clark]

I just wanted to add before we wrap this up just a few comments about stereotypes and how they relate to all that goes on on Colorado Avenue.

You may not know that Robin is white and when the letter to Tom was made public, many people came up to her to congratulate her on her well written letter. One guy waved me out of the way so he could say something to her in my kitchen.

I have come up against stereotypes from both black and white. We all have our definitions on how one or the other should behave. I struggled with it and still do. As a kid I was accused of talking white. My brothers were victims of playground fights. Even my daughters are harrassed because of their diction. And I had a boss tell me in my last suit job that I was not qualified because of my race. How could I know how to effecitively market to white people? It has been life long learning.

Evening Star was an eye-opener. Here I was with a staff composed of people in a former life I wouldn't talk to . Drug addicts, people living in shelters, wife beaters, ex-cons...one thing brought us together. The need to cook for a living. Why aren't you out sweeping the street? I often asked them. You cook there's a reason. When I pushed them too hard or fussed about something not being right, they'd complain. I'd say, "The food is more important than your feelings." Don't get me wrong. That goes for me too.

We took a lot of heat for having Aunt Jemima pictured in our restaurant. Her smiling face, while it makes some of us black folks cringe, is part of Americana. How could I leave her out? I have come to terms with Aunt Jemima and I've acknowledged my secret admiration of her. Who knows her story? Was she sold away from her parents? Did she have to nurse those white kids and not feed her own? Are they horrible to her? Does she sleep in the barn with the animials? Nonetheless, this woman has arrogance and self-respect and honestly believes she is the best at what she does. Against all odds. She should be poisoning these people. Instead she wants them to eat well. Now THAT is "the food is more important than your feelings.

Colorado Kitchen is Aunt Jemima. Smack it down and it will be here cooking up a storm. It is the bandana in 3 dimensions. Because the people on the walls think they are von Karajan. We all have that in common. The need to cook to express ourselves that way. Gerard, Yannick, Roshena, Gillian, Susan, Rastus, Jemima, Ann, Todd, Tom, Ris, Carol....all of us Jemima and Von Karajan.

As far as daSto is concerned. I think the language is a great equalizer. I laughed at Robin yesterday for saying it, "You talk black," I said. But seriously, it was a simple name to fit a simple thing. Just as Colorado Kitchen is not heady or pretentious. I could have called it Chez Gillian but how would that have looked? The simple name drew such ire. But think of it. All of us are saying daSto. How's that for eliminating stereotypes? Being black, being white, talking black, talking white...shouldn't we get rid of the differences and the lables.

It brings to mind the Sneetches of Dr. Seuss fame. Bellies with stars and bellies with none. Then who had stars from the start and who had none? WOW...how soon could they no longer tell the difference.

I admire all of your intuitiveness. So many have come by and asked us how to pronounce it. What language is it? Is it Swedish?

Maybe.

Cheers to you all.

It's been fun. Thanks for letting me clear the air.

Gillian

[DonRocks]

There's nothing I can possibly add to this marvelous chat except to say thank you, Gillian, for what has been an amazing glimpse into your work.

Cheers!

Don

[mnebergall]

It's been fun. Thanks for letting me clear the air.

Gillian

So, Gillian is taking credit for the amazing weather?

[JennyUptown]

Really great chat. I enjoyed it, but also found it very enlightening.

I should warn you, though, that I may now darken your doorstep (once I can eat solid food again, that is). Should I book as "overeducated white chick"?

Just being a smart ass...or trying anyway. I look forward to getting to CK.

[Al_Dente]

I went and darkened her doorstep for lunch. Great burger!

Enjoyed meeting you briefly , Chef!

Thanks!

Apparently, I don't look like my picture (according to whom I presume was Robin).

[morela]

I went and darkened her doorstep for lunch. Great burger!

Enjoyed meeting you briefly , Chef!

Thanks!

Apparently, I don't look like my picture (according to whom I presume was Robin).

did you have a special soda too? did you like the wallpaper in the bathroom?

[DonRocks]

did you have a special soda too?

No, but I did (a Route 66 root beer and a Boylan's diet black cherry soda) early this evening as her doorstep was darkened for dinner.

[pastramionrye]

i am shocked my comment about her calling herself CHEF got so much play....blushes.

but someone had it right...when they equated it to a dcotor calling himself, simply, doctor.

but i guess it just is a nickname.

anyway, miss gillian... the chat was very interesting to read.

i ate there for my birthday in february, with my folks, and i gorged. i had somesort of salad, a fish entree AND a hamburger!!! plus i think i had a dessert somewhere in there too.

[butterfly]

I really enjoyed reading this chat. Sorry that I missed it.

I'm living in Madrid now and I can honestly say that one of the places in DC that my mind wanders to the most is Colorado Kitchen. It's the most "American" place I can think of.

While I'm certain that Ms. Clark could easily execute lofty and more complicated dishes, what I appreciate most is her ability to elevate the most simple food to perfection. Despite what the elitests might think, this is the mark of an artist (and a scientist).

Those biscuits run out because they are perfect. Even if you stow a few in a zip loc bag in your purse and eat them the next day, they hold up. Yes, it is hard to fry things! A simple waffle tastes the way it should. It is unbelievably hard to do these things right. Especially when fewer and fewer are doing these things at home--soon we may all forget what the most simple things are supposed to taste like.

After seeing you back in that kitchen working so hard and producing so much good food, I just can't understand how people can criticize what you have managed to create. If you want to wear a tiara and call yourself the queen--who cares!?

In any case, I look forward to seeing how your empire has expanded when I land back in DC. And please make sure to put your biscuit recipe in the cookbook.

Best of luck!

[Al_Dente]

I went and darkened her doorstep for lunch. Great burger!

Enjoyed meeting you briefly , Chef!

Thanks!

Apparently, I don't look like my picture (according to whom I presume was Robin).

did you have a special soda too? did you like the wallpaper in the bathroom?

I had a Boylan's Cream Soda. I didn't get a chance to check out the bathroom.

[Gillian Clark]

my folks, and i gorged. i had somesort of salad, a fish entree AND a hamburger!!! plus i think i had a dessert somewhere in there too.

So you're the one who had the burger and all that food. We talked about you...we were impressed.

[Gillian Clark]

I really enjoyed reading this chat. Sorry that I missed it.

I'm living in Madrid now and I can honestly say that one of the places in DC that my mind wanders to the most is Colorado Kitchen. It's the most "American" place I can think of.

While I'm certain that Ms. Clark could easily execute lofty and more complicated dishes, what I appreciate most is her ability to elevate the most simple food to perfection. Despite what the elitests might think, this is the mark of an artist (and a scientist).

Those biscuits run out because they are perfect. Even if you stow a few in a zip loc bag in your purse and eat them the next day, they hold up. Yes, it is hard to fry things! A simple waffle tastes the way it should. It is unbelievably hard to do these things right. Especially when fewer and fewer are doing these things at home--soon we may all forget what the most simple things are supposed to taste like.

After seeing you back in that kitchen working so hard and producing so much good food, I just can't understand how people can criticize what you have managed to create. If you want to wear a tiara and call yourself the queen--who cares!?

In any case, I look forward to seeing how your empire has expanded when I land back in DC. And please make sure to put your biscuit recipe in the cookbook.

Best of luck!

Wow...thanks for the kind words. Your post reminded me of the introduction to Marion Cunningham's cookbook (and research projcet), The Lost Recipes. I'm hoping to keep the food that is American alive and inspire people to try them at home.

We hear a lot of compliments all day long. But comments like yours, where I can tell someone really understands what I'm up to, really make my day.

[Jason Perlow]

INCOMING!!!!

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/artic...4-2004Aug9.html

[DCMark]

Gillian:

If you are reading this still I wanted to say that your paragraphs on raising children is an inspiration and excactly what I have been thinking for years. While I do not have children I watch the differences between children eating with the family in France vs. the US and it really explains many of the problems I see in kids today.

Regardless, I am now committed to frequenting your restaurant more often.