WTN: 7 from Lolonis

[geo t.]

Noted Metro Detroit area wine raconteur R.J. Tibus stopped into the place where I am gainfully employed with a guest recently, one Petros Lolonis, of the Lolonis Winery in the Redwood Valley of Mendocino County, California. Mr. Lolonis was in town to promote his product line in retail and restaurant establishments, and R.J., being his local distribution rep, was doing double duty as both teller of tall tales and chauffeur. I first tasted the fruit of the Lolonis family’s labors back in the late ‘70s, in the form of Fetzer’s Lolonis Vineyard Zinfandel.

Petros father began planting grape vines in Redwood Valley over 70 years ago, and the family has carried on with the endeavor, selling grapes to Christian Brothers during Prohibition for sacramental wine, and afterwards, to the likes of Charles Krug, Geyser Peak, Italian Swiss Colony, Parducci and Sebastiani during the ‘40s and ‘50s. In the mid-50s, Petros brother Nick convinced their father Tryfon to switch to organic farming, and they’ve practicing those methods ever since. Beneficial predators such as ladybugs are used instead of pesticides, and cover crops also used to keep pests away from vines, as well as to return nutrients to the soils. In 1982, Petros and his brother Ulyssus established the Lolonis winery, which now produces a range of bottlings, both red and white, which are made by Ed West, along with Consulting Enologist Jed Steele.

Being that I was at their last stop of the day, Petros and R.J. bestowed upon me their entire case of samples, and here’s what we found. (Note that prices listed are those in said establishment where I’m gainfully employed.)

2002 Lolonis Redwood Valley Fumé Blanc, 13.5% alc.: Pale straw color, with clean green apple and pear aromas that, while pleasant enough, don’t exactly jump out of the glass. Flavors echo and expand with good acidity, but there’s only moderate sauvignon character here. Still, it has good presence and intensity, and matches well with Kim’s flavorful curried chicken and rice. Sees no oak, fermented in stainless steel.

2001 Lolonis Redwood Valley Chardonnay, $18.99, 13.4% alc.: Pale to medium straw color, with creamy pear flavors and aromas, and an added fig – like note on the palate. It moves along with good acidity on a medium full bodied frame, is moderately oaked, and while it’s not too complex, it’s easy to drink, and goes well with the same chicken and rice dish as the Fumé Blanc. A decent $17 chardonnay that shows more varietal typicity than the sauvignon blanc. Aged 7 months in French oak.

2001 Lolonis Redwood Valley Zinfandel, $17.49, 13.8% alc.: Ruby garnet color, with sweet toasty oak over raspberry and black cherry flavors and aromas. Medium bodied, with good acids and intensity, moderate tannins, and a decent finish. A good burger – pizza – pasta wine, and drank almost as well on the night after.

2001 Lolonis Redwood Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $18.99, 13.8% alc.: Ruby dark garnet color, with a sweet toasty oak, red currant, raspberry, cherry stick bouquet that follows through in the medium full bodied flavors with earthy underarms, good concentration and a decent finish. Not too complex, and a little “brighter” than I tend to like my cabernet, but not a bad wine by any means. Aged in French and American oak.

1999 Lolonis Redwood Valley Merlot Private Reserve, $25.99, 13.8% alc.: Ruby dark garnet color, with a somewhat stingy sweet oak, black currant and black cherry bouquet that follows through in the flavors with added earthy undertones. Medium full bodied, it seems a little lean on the mid – palate back on through the finish; not terribly complex, it’s only marginally better than the wines in the regular line. Aged in French and American oak.

1998 Lolonis Redwood Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, 13.8% alc.: Ruby dark garnet color, with a toasty oak, tar, black currant and cherry stick nose, this seems typical for the vintage, being a bit light on the palate and somewhat hollow in the middle. Showing soft tannins, decent acidity and a decent finish, this isn’t very “cabernet – like” for my tastes. A good wine, but that’s all.

2001 Lolonis Redwood Valley Orpheus Petite Sirah, $29.99, 13.8% alc.: Dark garnet color, not quite inky; toasty oak takes a backseat to the chocolate, blackberry and black cherry flavors and aromas. There’s a good dose of tannins here, as you’d expect from petite sirah (there’s some valdiguie, also known as Napa Gamay blended into this), and while it seems to lack some depth at first, it fills out with air, becoming rich, rough and not quite rowdy. Easily the best wine of this bunch, and one that will benefit from some time in the cellar; should be showing at its best on or about its 10th birthday. Aged in French and American oak.

I found these wines to be well made; they perform correctly, doing what they’re supposed to, but with the possible exception of the Orpheus, they’re not very exciting. They don’t have that extra “something” that makes me want to buy more of them and take them home. Still, they’re interesting to taste, and a good choice for those looking for organic wines. (Sulfite content is only about 50 parts per million; the legal limit is 250 ppm.) I certainly enjoyed my conversation with Petros. Many thanks to him, and to R.J. Tibus for letting me sample the wines of Lolonis.

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

Edited April 30, 2004 by geo t. (log)

[Alex]

A belated welcome to eGullet, geo!

I'm with you on the Lolonis. We've had a tasting here in GR, sans Mr. Lolonis. I enjoy their Chard and Cab ok and am a big fan of the Orpheus. I do like to support their use of organic farming.

Where in Detroit do you work?

[geo t.]

Thanks for the welcome, Alex. I work for Papa Joe's in Birmingham and Rochester Hills.