1880, Bentley Hotel

Andy Lynes · April 4, 2004

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Star Grazing

An Interview with Chef Andrew Turner

Chef Andrew Turner cooks haute cuisine in posh hotels. Whether alongside Albert Roux at Hanbury Manor in Herfordshire, or as head chef at The Berkeley or Browns in London, that is what he does. Installed in South Kensington's gloriously over-the-top "The Bentley" since October 2003, Turner continues unwaveringly along that path. In conversation, Turner comes across as determinedly unpretentious and keen to open up what he does to the widest possible audience. His "grazing menu" concept for example appears to be an attempt to democratize fine dining.

"I first saw them in New York around the time of Nouvelle Cuisine. I wanted to do something that wasn't French, so rather then have a "menu exceptionale" or "menu prestige" I wanted to make it more accessible, which is where grazing menus come in." In a note on the restaurant menu, Turner explains the idea further, "there are many choices available on the a la carte and sometimes it is difficult to choose. That is why I have created a unique dining experience inviting you to graze through in miniature the a la carte selection".

With many restaurants now offering multi-course tasting menus, its perhaps an over statement to describe the grazing concept as "unique". However, Restaurant 1880 is unusual in that its grazing menus constitute 98% of its sales. This enables Turner to keep his prices relatively low for cooking of this level in London (6 courses for £40.00 climbing to 9 courses for £49.00).

"We know what people are going to eat and we have the portion sizes right, so there's no waste," explains Turner. "It's also easy for the kitchen to serve the food this way. We did a private party for 60 cooked by three people. We know when the different sections of the kitchen will be hit so we all move onto them to get the food out." Ideally, Turner would like to see 1880 move completely to the grazing concept, but a la carte remains essential for hotel guests who just want one or two courses. He is planning however to add 5 and 10 course menus to the 6,7,8 and 9 course versions currently offered.

"Seared Celtic Scallop, Cauliflower and Courgette, Capers and White Sultanas" is typical of Turner's style. Inspired by New York chef Jean George Vongerichten (whose "Vong" restaurant occupied the front dining room at The Berkeley when Turner was head chef of the Knightsbridge hotel), the chef describes it as "a European version of sweet and sour". Turner uses diver caught Orkney Islands scallops for the dish, "Unlike dredged scallops, there's no sand or grit trapped in the shells. That means we don't have to wash them and can retain all the natural sweetness of the meat". The dish is sauced with a classic beurre blanc, finished with some lightly whipped cream to which salted capers (washed then soaked in vinegar) and white sultanas are added, the sweet and sour elements. Further sweetness is derived from thinly sliced cauliflower florets dusted in icing sugar which are sautéed from raw. It's presented in a bespoke made, wide rimmed dish, playfully embossed with the chefs thumbprint.

Turner strongly believes in the importance of wine at the dining table and confers with sommelier Patrick Salles to ensure that his food works with the bottles on 1880's list. "Although it's a team effort, I create the food. Patrick will pick four or five wines he knows will be available when a particular menu is on that will be a good match. I get feedback from Patrick on the food and may tweak a recipe because if that. I try to avoid vinaigrettes and tomatoes for instance, and things like apple couli can be a problem."

Other factors can affect the food and wine pairings; "Ingredients can change during the season. We get asparagus from Germany in May and that will change over the 6 weeks it's available. We started off serving it with truffles, but the asparagus became more acidic, so we baked it with Emmental to counteract that."

Turner says that he "cooks what he wants to cook" but will visit the dining room and ask for feedback. He keeps a close eye on every plate that comes back to the kitchen to see if it has been cleared or not and will increase or reduce portions as necessary. The chef describes his cooking as Contemporary European. "A deconstruction

of classic food followed by a reconstruction of those same ingredients, but

in a contemporary style."

Although he is firmly in the classical tradition and is "unsure what signals Molecular Gastronomy is sending out", he is not adverse to a little experimentation of his own. Trimmings from a starter of port cured foie gras are blitzed in a Pacojet machine to make an unusual ice cream, and a pre-dessert of iced lychee is served with a sprinkling of chili that has been first fried, then confited in stock syrup.

The following nine course grazing menu was created for eGullet.com by chef Andrew Turner with wines matched by sommelier Patrick Salles:

Smoked Salmon and Blue Cheese Beignet

Champagne Tattinger

Rabbit Veloute, Olive and Ginger Baton

Pork Rillette Spring Roll with Truffle and Truffle Jus

Craigow Reisling 2003, Tasmania

Lobster and Avocado Salad with Squid Ink and Pistachio Sauces

Pinot Blanc, Benwirth, Marcel Deiss 2001 Alsace

Port Marinated Foie Gras, Gingerbread, Mesclun Salad

Green Apple Sorbet, Apple Crisp

Mas Amiel SW 2000, France

Celtic Scallop with Cauliflower Puree, Caper and Raisin Sauce

Soave Classico superiore “La Rocca”, L.Pieropan, Veneto 2001, Italy

Cutlet of Lamb, Beignet of Lamb Breast, Sweetbreads

Pomme Parisienne and Tarragon Sauce

Chateau Teyssier, Grand Cru 2000 St Emilion, France

Cheese

Chateau Teyssier Grand Cru 2000 St Emilion France

Iced Lychee with Chili in a cone

Chocolate and Orange Pannacotta, Orange Sorbet, Orange Crisp

Golden Cut Riesling 2003 Clare Valley, South Australia

The Bentley Hotel website

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Scott · April 5, 2004

I really enjoyed an 8 course meal here 2 weeks ago, my only thoughts were that the cooking was excellent, but still perhaps not up to the ambition of the setting.

MobyP · April 5, 2004

Being part of this bold and adventurous eGullet Team, I had a fantastic time. I think the problem is not that the food wasn't up to the ambition of the setting - it's the customers that weren't. You'd have to be Adnan Kashogi or the Duke of Marlborough to feel comfortable in that room. You actually get escorted from the front door of the hotel down to the Restaurant. This is CCTV old-style. Even in the mens room, there were eyes afoot.

The food on the other hand is probably one of the best bargains in London. £49 for a nine course menu, the likes of which you'd have to go to a seriously starred restaurant to find, at three times the cost. Yes, I know, it's all very vulgar talking money. The food here is absolutely beautiful in that small portion French Laundry sort of way. You wouldn't think they'd have the time to issue those sorts of presentations. The proteins are all treated lovingly (if in a very legal and law-abiding sense).

The pork rillette spring roll came with a beautiful and fragrant disk of black truffle balanced on top - it was a joy to eat next to the rabbit velouté. The lobster salad, beautiful. The foie gras came with an apple crisp, and freshly squeezed apple juice for you to drink quickly alongside, was luverly. Look, I'm feeling the sort of effusiveness that always ends up lowering my IQ by fifty point (in case you wondered). But it was all - well - bloody nice. It's in the same family as Thyme, but a more formal arrangement of limbs is required.

The breads were a slight contrast - beautifully made, but all quite rustic - rip n' tear sorts of things, rather than ducassian portioned Alladin Slipper rolls.

I'd return, and will, in a second.

Andy Lynes · April 5, 2004

Some of wine pairings were gorgeous, particularly the pinot blanc with the lobster and the Mas Amiel with the foie gras. Andrew Turner himself is a very likeable bloke and I couldn't fault the cooking technically. The flavours of the main ingredients were very clear and obviously of the highest quality.

However, I didn't like the over elaborate presentation and structure of some of what we ate, for eample the apple couli in a shot glass and apple crisp served on the side of the foie. The foie, gingerbread and beautiful little salad were enough for me.

I'd love to eat Turner's cooking in a more relaxed setting, one where perhaps he might feel more comfortable in knocking out a more relaxed style of food. But I agree with Moby, if you can accustom yourself to the milieu in which Turner currently plies his trade, you can enjoy a bit of a bargain.

tony h · July 5, 2004

Anyone been recently - is it still worth the trip?

Gavin Convery · July 5, 2004

Looked at the website, like the concept, put it on my list of places to go.....

MobyP · July 5, 2004

Tony - the setting is so far ott ostentatious that you can only laugh. The food, however, is for the most part expertly done, with enormous atttention, and a real bargain (at 43 quid for nine courses - or along those lines). This is high level haute cooking - not necessarily blisteringly original, but extremely tasty.

oldschooltie · July 5, 2004

Tony - the setting is so far ott ostentatious that you can only laugh. The food, however, is for the most part expertly done, with enormous atttention, and a real bargain (at 43 quid for nine courses - or along those lines). This is high level haute cooking - not necessarily blisteringly original, but extremely tasty.

went about a month ago.

Food was superb, wines pretty good, service for the most part good. Shame that the place is, to my tastes, quite bizarre and - although it shouldn't affect the enjoyment of the food - it does.

Place was pretty empty and had a slightly desparate feel about it.

Real talent, but I think will struggle in that location.

tony h · July 7, 2004

Thanks - have now booked

Any suggestions on reasobnable wines i.e. sub 40 pounds?

Cheers

Tony

MobyP · July 7, 2004

We let Patrick Salles the sommelier match wines for us (although to be fair, it was one of those incredibly rare freebies, so I wasn't paying). But to my knowledge, it's not extortionate. I seem to remember him matching us up witth several alsatian whites - all of which were lovely.

tony h · July 9, 2004

The basement bar is impressive & seductive and I felt a little out of place not having rented my companion for the evening. We confused the bar utterly by trying to pay for drinks in cash – or was it that we expected change from a 20 – who knows.

The restaurant itself is initially intimidating & grand – stuffed with very large chairs and chandeliers – but the very friendly waiters quickly put at our ease.

The menu is huge & not just physically – 3 course ALC plus a variety of grazing menus from 6 course up to 10. We chose the 9 course meal – 10 would have been vulgar.

The bread trolley arrived - more a small shop on wheels – with an astonishing choice. Everything was excellent – particularly the foccacia which was still warm. Butters and flavoured oils were on offer.

Prestarter – a spoon with carpaccio and tartare of tuna dice – very refreshing.

1. Small cup of clam broth – I was the only not to like this – it lacked depth & salt and I thought the vegetable dice was a little too big for the small cups. Then again, I prefer puree’d soups. The other 3 gulped it down.

2. smoked salmon with caviar – stunningly presented with little discs of mustard & dill sauce on either side and painstakingly carved cucumber batons. This was pretty good.

3. roast scallop with tomato flavoured broth – again – a little lacking in salt for my taste – but great scallop. Can’t remember the other garnishes

4. roast foie gras - with small potato discs & shredded config of leg (I think) – fabulously glutinous ginger scented sauce.

5 halibut with peas, broad beans and pea spatzel (sp) – red wine sauce. This was seriously bad – the halibut was over cooked and dry and there was a faint rubbery taste to the dish. The peas & beans were wonderful – but again – lack of salt or sharpness to the sauce to lift it. This was a great shame as there was obviously a serious amount of effort put into getting the sauce to that sublime stickiness.

6 lamb – lovely, succulent piece of loin served on the bone with small bits of sweetbread on either side. Stunning red sauce. However – it also came with a small rectangle of unidentifiable matter coated in breadcrumbs – no one could figure out what this was – also – no one much cared for it. Only a small blemish to a great dish.

7 cheese next – two very large plates for us – one with hard cheese and one with soft cheese. Very fine accompaniments of apple syrup-thing & fruit compote. The als0 brought us some finely sliced apple. This was really good.

8 a chocolate dome circled with varying sized dots of chocolate sauce & red fruit puree. Not me – but the others loved it.

9 a beautiful plate with 3 dimples and a different red berry inspired dessert in each – a drink (good), berries and donut-like pastry square – very good and lastly a small cheesecake – also very good.

52 pounds each – not bad

On the whole – a pretty good meal which was spoiled in places by a lack of seasoning. Presentation was faultless. The room was odd – and after close inspection during the evening our conclusion was that it would fit in seamlessly in Las Vegas – a bit too much white a gold plus those marble pillars topped with clam shells is a place even changing rooms wouldn't go.

MobyP · July 9, 2004

We chose the 9 course meal – 10 would have been vulgar.

Hear hear! :biggrin:

Andy Lynes · July 9, 2004

However – it also came with a small rectangle of unidentifiable matter coated in breadcrumbs – no one could figure out what this was – also – no one much cared for it. Only a small blemish to a great dish.

That would have been the "Beignet of Lamb Breast". I thought overall the lamb dish was the highlight of the meal when I went.

tony h · July 9, 2004

Beignet of Lamb Breast

curious - just what is a beignet?

lamb breasts - a new one on me

Cheers

Tony

Jon Tseng · July 9, 2004

curious - just what is a beignet?

A fritter ie something batter an' deep fried. Can be savoury or sweet

eg "Beignet of Chocolate and Caramal a l'Ecosse"

:wink:

chrs

J

Conor · July 9, 2004

Good to see you enjoyed your meal last night, I hope you enjoyed the Gavi and Bourgogne Pinot Noir as well.

The confit lamb breast is not a beignet but is indeed coated in breadcrumbs. It is to provide a contrast both in texture and flavour to the lamb cutlet, but I will certainly pass on to Andrew your indifference.

While the decor will not be to everyones taste, I would recommend all e gulleteers to visit 1880, and to get the full experience opt for wines to match.

Please let me know if any of you are visiting in the future.

endless autumn · July 9, 2004

The lamb breast sounds very much like the Elizabeth David's classic 'Breast of Lamb Ste-Menehould' which is gorgeous.

Lamb's breast braised with green bacon, carrots, onions, herbs very very slowly, then pressed, cut into strips, coated with mustard and herbed breadcrumbs and grilled with a little clarified butter.

unbelievably cheap (a breast will cost you 50p at a farmers market and will feed four) and truly alchemical. also known as 'lamb fingers'.

MobyP · July 9, 2004

There's a veal breast dish in the French Laundry book which is almost identical.

Gavin Convery · July 9, 2004

Good to see you enjoyed your meal last night, I hope you enjoyed the Gavi and Bourgogne Pinot Noir as well.
The confit lamb breast is not a beignet but is indeed coated in breadcrumbs. It is to provide a contrast both in texture and flavour to the lamb cutlet, but I will certainly pass on to Andrew your indifference.
While the decor will not be to everyones taste, I would recommend all e gulleteers to visit 1880, and to get the full experience opt for wines to match.
Please let me know if any of you are visiting in the future.

Conor, I take it you have some connection with the restaurant? If you don't mind could you reveal what that is?

I like the concept of grazing menus generally and so am impelled to go especially with accompanying wines which gives you some idea of the overall cost without the shock of some wine lists.

Conor · July 9, 2004

Hi Gavin, I'm the Restaurant Manager at 1880.

We have a sommelier's menu which is a suprise 8 course menu with wines to match for £100. But we can also match wines with any of our grazing menus which range from 5 courses up to 10 courses with prices starting at £40 for 5 courses.

jimbob · July 9, 2004

Conor,

Have you ever considered a 'high end' wine matched menu. As at Troisgros a while back and it was amazing to see Dom P 1996 and Coche Dury paired by the glass with food.

I don't mean to say you do not serve good wine but I would love to see world class pairings.

I guess the concern is having too many half full bottles going to vinegar.

Andy Lynes · July 9, 2004

The lamb breast sounds very much like the Elizabeth David's classic 'Breast of Lamb Ste-Menehould' which is gorgeous.

I think it was a very similar preperation.

tony h · July 9, 2004

I will certainly pass on to Andrew your indifference.

i think its the halibut he needs to worry about

Andy Lynes · July 9, 2004

I must say that I'm quite pleased this thread has popped up again. When Moby and I dined at the restaurant it did cross my mind that the restaurant deserved to get some more "foodie" customer action than it appeared to have on the night we were there.

Conor · July 9, 2004

Jimbob, it would indeed be great to match menus with wines like this, but I do not think it would be as succesful as it needed to be to prevent the wine "turning to vinegar"

Prices are already high in London, and while I feel our food and service is comparable to most of the very top places in London, Troisgros has had 3 michelin stars for 30 years and has become a destination for people wanting to sample the best.

1880 is not at that level.....yet!

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