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Wine Geography


Craig Camp

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Good article from Jancis. I've always liked her writing. I don't see this "absence of sub-appellation" labeling in other California growing areas as much as I do in Napa. Sonoma and the Central Coast typically carry more sub-appellations and vineyards designations. But there isn't as much comparatively in Napa.

It would be interesting to see some consumer research on this -- do consumers view Napa Valley with almost brand-like awe?

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

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I believe it is changing. Interesting that Jancis mentions Howell Mountain - that is where I am. We make two Cabernets, both named Ladera, both totally estate; one has Howell Mountain as an appellation designate and the other is a vineyard designate named Lone Canyon Vineyard. Our Howell Mountain wine is from our Howell Mountain vineyards and our Lone Canyon is from our estate vineyard at 1,100 feet in the more western Mayacamas Mountains. Both are mountain fruit (Ladera means hillside) and the Howell Mountain vineyards range in elevation from 1,500 to 1,800.

Also, I know of few wineries that are actually above the 1,400 foot elevation level (that is the technical cut-off for being able to use the Howell Mountain designation) that don’t use it on their label. For the first time, a number of winery owners are formally organizing themselves to be sure the appellation maintains the quality, working towards a specific Howell Mountain appellation.

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I think that the problem with getting "consumers" to understand the differences is part of the problem inherent in the wine industry -- the producers seldom talk to the consumer. Advertising is NOT the norm and so the producers talk to the distributor ... the distributor to the retailer ... the retailer eventually takes the message to the consumer (if you are lucky). Add another layer in there if you are talking about restaurants. Even vintner's associations are plagued with the same game of "telephone." The message often gets garbled or lost.

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I think that the problem with getting "consumers" to understand the differences is part of the problem inherent in the wine industry -- the producers seldom talk to the consumer. Advertising is NOT the norm and so the producers talk to the distributor ... the distributor to the retailer ... the retailer eventually takes the message to the consumer (if you are lucky). Add another layer in there if you are talking about restaurants. Even vintner's associations are plagued with the same game of "telephone." The message often gets garbled or lost.

Very close, but I think the problem is bigger than that -- and one that is very hard to fix. It is a matter of being able to teach the difference between the taste in terroirs. I'm here in the industry, and I can hardly tell the difference between a Stags Leap appellation Pinot Noir and a Carneros Pinot Noir.

I talk to people all day long and am beginning to learn that there IS a difference between Mountain fruit and Valley fruit, but to start sub-dividing it up after that -- and to know what those characteristics are -- is an undaunting task.

Yeah, the wine snobs and those who write about it (the James Laubes and Ustinovs and Parkers) can figure it out, but few people beyond that can expend the time and money to learn the differences. I would love to, but I could never expect John-Q-Public to want to.

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I think even now, Napa Valley has more cache and name-recognition than any of its sub-apellations for most consumers, thus there hasn't been much reason for producers to push the sub-appellation envelope. With the exception of arguably a few sub-aps such as the Rutherford Bench or perhaps Howell Mountain, the effect of terroir hasn't been hugely noticeable even when the sub-aps have been pushed.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

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- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

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I can hardly tell the difference between a Stags Leap appellation Pinot Noir and a Carneros Pinot Noir.

Stag's Leap Pinot Noir? :blink::biggrin:

My Bad!

I assumed that the Robert Sinskey Winery LOCATED in the Stag's Leap district, made their Pinot from vineyards in that area.

Nope - all their Pinot vineyards are in Carneros (as the phone call I just made proved).

Mea culpa.

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Well, I wasn't trying to point out an error. I was actually showing confusion at having never heard of a Pinot Noir labeled SLD. There may or may not be one in existence. I just found it odd that such a cab-intensive AVA would also be associated with Pinot Noir to the point of putting SLD on the label.

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

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Well, I wasn't trying to point out an error. I was actually showing confusion at having never heard of a Pinot Noir labeled SLD. There may or may not be one in existence. I just found it odd that such a cab-intensive AVA would also be associated with Pinot Noir to the point of putting SLD on the label.

No blame -- it was good for me to figure this out. I have long-since admired Sinskey's Pinots, as well as those from Patz & Hall, which are also grown in the Carneros district. It is all beginning to make sense to me, for which I am extremely grateful.

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