Frisee Aux Lardons

[smithi]

I really enjoyed this salad at Pastis but they recently took it off the menu (and won't fill a special request for it).  I was wondering if anyone has had a good version elsewhere.  

I recently tried Brasserie's version...it was BAD.  Dressing seemed to be all vinegar and I don't even think they put an egg on the salad (or anywhere else on the plate).

[Wilfrid]

I recall Les Halles did an acceptable version.  It shouldn't be difficult:  D'Artagnan served me one which was unobjectionably composed, but had then been seasoned with about half a pound of coarse salt.

[tommy]

i'd say that Cafe Centro's version is acceptable.  they've been it or miss as of late, but overall i find the place fun and a good value.

[wingding]

Tom Valenti does a really delicious and different take on this dish at Ouest,with sturgeon.Raouls' in Soho did a good traditional version awhile back,but they've changed chefs,so I can't recommend it unconditionally,but it's still on the menu.

[foodboy]

I enjoyed one at Cafe Boulud, but it's the only one I've had, so I can't compare

[jaybee]

I had this salad at Les Halles last week.  It was quite good, though the dressing needed some help.  The lardons were the best I've tasted.  I also have had good versions at Demarchelier and and the "new" Jean Luc on Columbus Ave. and 85th street.

[Pan]

My experience in France was that frisee' was used by restaurants that wanted to save money by not using really good lettuce. In other words, a vegetable that is "tres chic" here just because it's French is just cheap lettuce and not much loved in France. (I don't much love that stuff, either, as you might have guessed; give me a good dark lettuce any time.) A similar phenomenon has occurred here vis-a-vis Evian water (the 2nd cheapest available in France after Volvic, IIRC) and Perrier (not very expensive fizzy water in France). Perhaps Bux will have a few comments, given his greater expertise than I in matters French.

[Bux]

I like frisée. I'm not sure it's an expert opinion, but I also like it with lardons, croutons and poached egg on top as does smithi. Supply and demand (not to mention advertising which, I guess, creates demand) has more to do with prices than quality. I have no idea if frisée is a cheaper lettuce in France, but it works well in the salad that's the subject of this thread. The next time I'm in France, I'll have to check market prices now that my curiosity is piqued.

I've had Valenti's sturgeon salad which is certainly worth having in it's own right. I've also had Cafe Boulud's version which currently comes garnished with chicken livers as well. It may be the best frisée salad in the city, but it comes with a ภ price tag as well as an financial obligation to complete the meal at Cafe Boulud. I've been pleased with the frisé salad at Eleven Madison Park and a dinner companion was pleased with it just last week. Eleven Madison Park is not as inexpensive as Pastis, but neither is it as expensive as Cafe Boulud. If you don't arrive at peak cocktail time you may be able to find a table in the bar area and not have a full meal. You should also be able to make an inexpensive meal of two appetizers, or an appetizer and a pasta at EMP and there are some very inexpensive wines currently on the list which can go a long way towards keeping prices from getting out of line. On the whole I like all three of those restaurants for their location and price point.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Smithi - If I had to recommend one in NYC, I would probably go with Les Halles. But in reality, I think that a proper Frisee Salad, which Bux accurately describes as something with Lardons and an egg on top, like Cassoulet, Pot au Feu, Bouillbabaisse and countless other French classics, just can't be found in the U.S. But if you get the opportunity, you should fly to Lyon, because almost every single restaurant serves that salad. No exageration.

[smithi]

Thanks for all of the feedback.  I'll definitely make plans to try it at Les Halles.  

As far as frisee goes, I agree with Pan.  I'm not a big fan of it.  It's difficult to eat and I've been served frisee that has been very tough (don't know if this is due to the maturity of the vegetable, place it's grown, etc).  

However, the combination of frisee with warm juicy lardons, croutons, an oozing egg and a salad dressing, who's base is bacon grease overrides any negative feelings I have about the vegetable.

 

[Wilfrid]

A nice variation is to add some pieces of blood sausage. You need to cook the blood sausage in the oven first, let it cool, then slice or chop it as you please and fry it crisp.  Replace the lardons with this, or use both and have a party!

[Schrohe]

I haven't been back in a while (primarily because I didn't love all of the OTHER food) but I seem to remember loving the version of this salas at The Village.  I might be wrong, but I think they used other lettuces (as well as Frisee).  It was great.

My favorite version of this salad in the United States is at a place called the Globe in San Francisco...they add some great roasted garlic cloves to the mix.