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L'Absinthe (in Paris not NY)

John Talbott

By John Talbott
in France: Dining

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John Talbott

John Talbott

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I would be interested in knowing if anyone has eaten at Caroline Rostang's new restaurant, L'Absinthe, 24 pl Marché St Honoré in the 1st. I read some time back that she had sold Le Bistro Cote Mer (which is no longer open weekends) and renovated the space in the market but have seen no information since and have not been by there to check the carte either.

John Talbott

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fresh_a

fresh_a

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Actually this restaurant has been around for years, and is owned by MICHEL Rostang, the famous two-star chef. It's a relatively good value for money in a very upmarket area.

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Bux

Bux

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"L’Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder." Definitely in the case of L’Absinthe, bistro chic et pas cher, another success from Michel Rostang, whose lovely daughter Caroline has set up shop with Laurent Montgillard at the pianos, Philippe Morel director du salle.

More at Bonjour Paris.

Caroline Rostang reprend, redécore et réveille le bistrot de son père (Michel).

More at Figaroscope.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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  • 3 weeks later...
meo-camuzet

meo-camuzet

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I would be interested in knowing if anyone has eaten at Caroline Rostang's new restaurant, L'Absinthe, 24 pl Marché St Honoré in the 1st.  I read some time back that she had sold Le Bistro Cote Mer (which is no longer open weekends) and renovated the space in the market but have seen no information since and have not been by there to check the carte either.

I was in Paris at the end of February and ate at L'Absinthe 2 times (lunch and dinner). It was great on both occasions. Then I tracked down Rue Balzac (Rostang's bistro) and loved it as well.

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Cheeselady

Cheeselady

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We were in Paris last week and ate at L'Absinthe. Great food at a reasonable price. The menu includes a number of comfort foods recrafted in a contemporary way. Good and reasonable wine list. The chef at Absinthe is the former sous chef at Rostang's gastronomique restaurant. I highly recommend L'Absinthe.

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Digijam

Digijam

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We stumbled upon Absinthe a few years back, while staying at the St James et Albany down the road, and have been back every single time since. It's got friendly service, a superb atmosphere and always excellent food. Definitely recommend you try to crayfish ravioli.

There's a place just a few doors away, Nomad, that's also worth a spin. The Moroccan influenced dishes can be a little hit and miss, but when they get it right it's very good indeed, and againt it's a wonderfully laidback place.

restaurant, private catering, consultancy
feast for the senses / blog

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John Talbott

John Talbott

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L’Absinthe, 24, Place du Marché St Honoré, 1st 01.49.26.90.04 “Un déception.” 4/26/04

You want to love it; it has absinthe from France & elsewhere, it’s in the Place du Marché St. Honoré, the décor is charming old Paris, eGulleteers love it and it’s now run by Caroline Rostang, whose hand was firmly and well placed daily on the Bistrot Coté Mer for several years. But from the start you realize something’s wrong; the bread is by Banette, the serveurs are over-stretched, the ventilation is non-existent or malfunctioning and the rich French lady next to you salts her entrée not once, not twice, but three times, liberally.

You await the food. The raviolis romans with langoustines are served with a more-or-less tasteless pink sauce all fluffed up à la Philippe Detourbe, but the one langoustine (2E extra) is unappealingly mushy; the rabbit is dry and if there was any anchovy in its stuffing, my taste buds missed it. My wife Colette’s shredded lamb, wrapped in a burned cabbage leaf was equally unexceptional. But the worst part came at dessert when my chocolat moelleux and fondant, Rostang’s classic, indeed, her gold standard at the Bistrot Coté Mer, was overcooked and ran not at all. The last straw: my digestif was served over crushed ice! Our bill was 95E

Maybe it was a bad day, maybe we ordered incorrectly, maybe our expectations were too high, maybe Rostang was still on her Pàques vacation, maybe, maybe, maybe………..

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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