Two lovely Italians

[Florida Jim]

2002 Tiefenbrunner, Chardonnay (Alto Adige):

A clean Chardonnay nose; a little lemon zest and pear, a touch of vanilla and some mineral/ medium body in the mouth but racy with crisp acids, flavors that follow the nose adding a spiciness not found in the nose, good concentration and intensity, balanced/ medium long, clean finish with spicy after-tones.

According to the website this is 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged in stainless – I think not. If this doesn’t see a little wood (perhaps a “tea bag”) then I’d say there’s some Pinot Grigio mixed in. Nonetheless, this is crisp and elegant with a pleasant spicy dryness that adds a level of complexity not found in similarly priced Chards. For instance, Brun’s ’02 Beaujolais blanc (about $11), has more depth and texture and less spice; still it’s well structured and delivers another quality version of unwooded Chard.

At about $9, retail, this is a good accompaniment to food and, as it warms, pretty good on its own. This house also does a Gewertz. and Pinot Grigio at similar price points that are worth checking out. Its proximity to the Austrian border accounts for its not so Italian name.

2002 Anselmi, San Vincenzo:

Smelling of apples, melon, flint and a hint of resin, this wine is fatter and rounder than most Soave while still bright and clean on the palate. The flavors follow the nose with a pleasant dry-ripeness and perfect balance. The finish is of medium length and leaves the mouth refreshed.

Although this producer no longer uses the Soave designation (due to unapproved viticultural practices) this wine is clearly of its place. And it is just delicious.

About $9, retail, this was excellent with chicken nachos and lovely on its own. Delightful.

Best, Jim