Anthony's, Leeds

[YKL]

found this on a random google search - which might be of interest

http://www.sugarvinetrade.com/Leeds/profil...ile.asp?story=8

Thought it was interesting to show how committed they were to getting the quality and detail right for every single aspect of the product. However, am not sure that the statement that the site did not need much work rings entirely true!!

cheers

Yin

[Steve Martin]

I can't believe he's only twenty-blinkin-four.

Same age as Martel Smith.

Great article.

My wife felt cheated by the lack of amuses with the set lunch. I am not at home to cross examine her on whether this was explained on the menu.

I feel that 'consistency' would be better achieved by treating all the guests to this hospitality. I usually avoid an a la carte because I think the set menus are more likely to be a closer communion with the chef and feature the freshest produce, not because they are cheaper.

Of course, it is no coincidence that Gueller's Rascasse was the only restaurant in the country to have a star and a Bib Gourmand at the same time. A bare bones option must always be offered in Leeds. Or indeed Harrogate, where he had to degrade from restaurant to bistro.

So, Anthony, be sure and keep them amused ;-)

[Carlovski]

Clue there how he makes his Parmesan Butter

Tony takes the fat he has rendered by slowly simmering Parmesan cheese in water and whisks it with butter. Using a spoon dipped in hot water, he shapes the mixture into perfect quenelles to serve with the bread.

Mmm, Parmesan fat

[Gary Marshall]

I can't believe he's only twenty-blinkin-four.

Same age as Martel Smith.

Great article.

My wife felt cheated by the lack of amuses with the set lunch. I am not at home to cross examine her on whether this was explained on the menu.

I feel that 'consistency' would be better achieved by treating all the guests to this hospitality. I usually avoid an a la carte because I think the set menus are more likely to be a closer communion with the chef and feature the freshest produce, not because they are cheaper.

Of course, it is no coincidence that Gueller's Rascasse was the only restaurant in the country to have a star and a Bib Gourmand at the same time. A bare bones option must always be offered in Leeds. Or indeed Harrogate, where he had to degrade from restaurant to bistro.

So, Anthony, be sure and keep them amused ;-)

yes martel is also frighteningly young- and talented.

i think the no3/ anthony's double header will soon become the alternative hibiscus/merchant house weekend.

there's no mention of amuses on the menu's but i rarely see them listed unless to boost a tasting menu.

i sense we completely disagree over the set lunch issue,

i would take it anywhere to be a cheaper introduction to the cooking, rather than a 'what's fresh' issue (even thought they may well be the same) in my experience eg no3, winteringham, anthony's that appears to be the case.

i would be pleased by the addition of amuses but not expecting of them, the amuses at anthony's to be fair are much more complex than many i have had.

but don't get me wrong i've had the set lunch at anthonys several times and enjoyed it, but the alc is the way to go, though when it's a choice of small, medium or large tasting menu it'll be even better!

gary

[Steve Martin]

i sense we completely disagree over the set lunch issue,

i would take it anywhere to be a cheaper introduction to the cooking, rather than a 'what's fresh' issue (even thought they may well be the same) in my experience eg no3, winteringham, anthony's that appears to be the case.

i would be pleased by the addition of amuses but not expecting of them, the amuses at anthony's to be fair are much more complex than many i have had.

but don't get me wrong i've had the set lunch at anthonys several times and enjoyed it, but the alc is the way to go, though when it's a choice of small, medium or large tasting menu it'll be even better!

gary

I don't think we are in complete disagreeance, Gary.

Set menus are, indeed, always more economical.

A choice of set menus is my ideal as well, and not for economy's sake.

I tend to dine abroad more these days and the amuse is usually a gift from the chef to everyone and often presented as such. An argument could be made that the people who allow the chef to set their menu deserve more reward than those who insist on an a la carte.

It is similar to my air travel, whereby I get a deep discount but am discriminated against because of it. They lure people in with a cheap option and then make them feel less welcome. Once you have got them in the door, you should butter them up, with or without parmesan.

I mentioned earlier that I don't think that Anthony's menu should be described as an a la carte: it is more like the French "menu". In my ideal world the chef would tell you what to eat and the lack of the waste that a la carte produces would bring prices down.

[Gary Marshall]

In my ideal world the chef would tell you what to eat and the lack of the waste that a la carte produces would bring prices down. 

exactly

anthony's food is best in multiple, small courses of his choosing, unfortunately not everyone is as trusting as us

gary

[Suzi Edwards]

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?

[Andy Lynes]

In case you weren't joking Tarka its 0845 7 48 49 50, but I always use the website. It might be worth checking Apex fares to Leeds.

[Suzi Edwards]

i was joking, but thank you anyway andy!

[Steve Martin]

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?

It is described twice in this thread, Tarka.

By the way have you heard about the Chicken Tarka dish. It is like Chicken Tikka, but it's a little otter.

especially moderation.

[Suzi Edwards]

i think you miss my tone steve (that's what the winking emoticom is for), it was a joke between moby and i. he knows i'm on the hunt for the perfect tarte tatin and have also eaten in almost all of the MG restaurants...it may become my signature dish.

unlike chicken tarka :-)

[MobyP]

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?

It is described twice in this thread, Tarka.

By the way have you heard about the Chicken Tarka dish. It is like Chicken Tikka, but it's a little otter.

especially moderation.

Oh dear oh dear.

And the eGullet luncheon voucher goes to...

[Suzi Edwards]

right, am going on the 20th.

it's so nice to have lovely things to look forward to.

[MobyP]

You're going tomorrow???

[Suzi Edwards]

june.

figure he'll have the tarte tatin down pat by then :-)

[YKL]

ummm .... I wondered about your dates too Tarka - but isn't the 20th a sunday? in which case .... *think* anthony's might be shut on sundays.

hopefully I am wrong - but phone number is 0113 245 5922 if you want to check?

regards

yin

[Andy Lynes]

So that National rail enquiries website will come in handy after all...

I had the best tarte tatin of my life in Leeds at Pool Court at 42. It was a while ago now, more than 5 years, but its still the same head chef, although the pastry chef might have changed.

[Suzi Edwards]

i meant the 19th. i actually don't even know what day it is today.

[Andy Lynes]

Its the 18th of June. Quick, get packing!!!!

[Suzi Edwards]

thank you for making me smile andy :-)

i am having a horrible day.

[Gary Marshall]

A quick trip to anthony's and i must report i'm quite full

First news is that the a la carte is changing soon, when i get it i will post it.

also there were a few more faces in the dining room and the phone was merrily ringing away, so hopefully there's a financial reward for all their hard work, olga and tony will be in on their day off working to perfect the a la carte.

Olga offered the chance to try some new dishes, as ever i was a happy and willing guinea pig and said i'd try anything they wanted to cook.

First up a new 'cocktail' amuse: mango and rapsberry grappa, the individual segments of raspberry had been picked apart in and placed in a tall grappa glass with the grappa (not noticable) and a tiny jug of mango juice, all very pleasant.

then the paprika crisp which is a rice puff, almost a quaver (for UK readers) which was both salty and paprika-y ,mmmm.

next was a new dish, 3 roast sprats with a japanese mushroom (who's name escapes me but the best explanation is that it looks like an exclamation mark), also fine diced shallots and a dressing, very nice and nicely salted.

next up the now famous bread with salted and parmesan butter.

new starter was crab claw, on top of a crab remoulade with white asparagus, the plate was dressed with pumpkin seeds and a quenelle of yoghurt ice cream and a reduction i didn't quite catch. This was excellent, 3 little piles of crab claw with the quenelle on a long rectangular plate. very fresh, remoulade excellent and a great dish.

unfortunately it transpired i had already tried most of the new main courses in the tasting menu of a few weeks ago, so i stuck with the house fave salt cod with pork belly cannelloni. Very good it remains, and it's staying on the menu too.

as i'm out for dinner tonight i declined desert but glady accepted some samples of the new fudges, a smoked one (interesting) and a yoghurt and balsamic (yes please).

with half a chablis and 10% service added the bill was £42.

still the dogs dangly bits.

gary

[YKL]

aaaggghh!!! darn it - it's happening again! Was already fighting the temptation to wander in for lunch tomorrow after the excellent piece in the Independent but my reserves of self control are dwindling fast.

Might not be able to read egullet for much longer at this rate!

[Gary Marshall]

better be quick, think they are virtually full for tomorrow lunch never mind dinner, 0113 245 5922 you know it makes sense!

gary

[Suzi Edwards]

next was a new dish, 3 roast sprats with a japanese mushroom (who's name escapes me but the best explanation is that it looks like an exclamation mark), also fine diced shallots and a dressing, very nice and nicely salted.

i htink they might be called enoki mushrooms.

turns out jack has taken all of your advice gary and we're eating at 3 york place on the friday, anthony's on the saturday and staying at the boutique hotel that completely escapes my mind now.

so, other than eat, what does one do in leeds? any recommendations for cocktails? any really fabby shops that i don't want to miss?

[MobyP]

I am so painfully jealous...