Costa Rica

[beaucher]

Ahum!

I am writing on this thread as I have just come back from a month long holliday in Costa Rica, and since I am a food writer, I suffered.

It was the 4th time I went. But it was not for the food - the cuisine - if you want. I went for love (the person accompaniing me loves animals and forests and nature in general). So I spent the entire month worrying about and looking for places to eat that were not serving the staple "rice and bean" (gallo pinto in CR) with overcooked meat, fish or chicken variety. A tough job. Mind you, eating rice and beans can be good. But to a unused stomach and digestive track, it is a biological nightmare gone sour.

So I found in isolated places, a few, very few extremely good places to eat. One in particular which is probably totally unknown but that should be noted down by everyone risking it in Costa Rica for more than a week. Unless eating is secondary of course, in which case, you probably don't read these threads anyway.

The restaurant serves indonesian food, thats right. Its on a hill, 600 metres high in the air, above the could almost. It is 1 km away from the sea, so you get to see the ocean, 360 degres of it, all to yourself without the noisy tourist entrapments that are so common nowadays. It serves authentic cuisine, well-prepared, wonderfully aromatic, full of spices (in a country that knows nothing of spices) and ingredients that make you think of Asia instantly. After a month long in the desert of food cultures, it is a saintly experience. The place is right above the village of Uvita, you need a taxi to get up there. No buses, the road goes staight up, 600 m. in less than 600 metres of road. Its called Balcon de Uvita, and it is the saving grace of the entire country. Just for them, I would return to Costa Rica.

[anil]

I agree -CR is a culinary wasteland. In SJO (San Jose) people drink cerveza and eat pollo. For breakfast rice-and-beans. However it does have goodt fresh fruits. Most people go there for "Pure Vida". I do

However of late, many international chains have begun to pay attention to food and brought in good chefs. Much of this has to do with many MNCs opening lots of manufacturing plants in Herraderia (sp?) area. The Sol Melia chain and Herradura have focused on cultivating Japanese, by getting some really nnovative chefs (or did as of 05/03), while Marriott was planning something like Fusion Latin fare.

Then there is the famous Tin-Jo (sp?)

[menton1]

While Costa Rican food may not be spectacular, it is typical of Latin America, with a heavy emphasis on rice and beans, along with well-cooked meats. Not much different than Mexican or Cuban cuisine.

I have been told, though, that the unique dining experience in CR is the "miradores", where they have built the restaurant on the side of a cliff or volcano. The view itself is worth the airfare, I hear. And at night the views of the lights and the surrounding hills is spectacular. Anyone been to the "Miradores"?

[chiquitalinda]

I've travelled extensively throughout latin america, and I'd have to say that hands down Costa Rica has the worst food. In my opinion, its nothing like Mexican or Cuban cuisine, most notably in that its very very bland. Ticos (Costa Ricans) don't go in much for spices (although the local mild salsa, Lizano, found on every table, is really delicious) and they don't have much in the way of distinct food tradition.

Of course, there are notable exceptions and a few restaurants in San Jose serve interesting and tasty food.

As for the miradores - I've only been to one high above San Jose - the view was absolutely spectacular, but the food was terrible, really almost inedible - I guess they can do that since their clientele are probably 100% tourists.

[robyn]

I enjoyed the food in Costa Rica. It was very much like home (Miami) - except they had some really large shrimp - langoustines? - not sure - that were very good grilled. Wasn't "big deal" food to be sure - but I ate everywhere - even roadside stands - and didn't get sick.

I am not familar with the "miradores" - but we did stay in a place in Quepos that was built into the side of a hill on the Pacific Ocean (Mariposa). It was beautiful.

By the way - one of our favorite meals at home is grilled marinated chicken with rice and beans. Just so you know where I'm coming from . And Cuban food is pretty bland - not much different from the stuff in CR. Robyn

[menton1]

Just got a report from someone that spent time in CR, they said the food is quite tasty.

Some of the native fare:

Frescos-- fresh and delicious natural fruit "smoothies", made from tamarind, passion fruit, guava, or star fruits;

Tamales stuffed with pork, olives, rice, wrapped in banana leaves.

Piccadillos-- Vegetables made into little cubes combined with ground meat, onions, garlic, and spices. (Great!)

Gallo Pinto-- the typical rice & beans preparation.

Overall, very fresh, tasty food, very Latin American. Great climate, as well-- who could ask for more?

[holly]

I haven't been to CR for about 10 years, so I am sure lots has changed. Also my memory is a bit murky as to specific locations, but there is a famous corn shack there, they sell creamed corn, corn bread, corn pudding (you get the idea). It is fantastic. While I was there I existed off of bags of rambutan purchased from vendors outside the cloud forest.

One thing I did notice about food in CR was an almost obsessive use of mayo. Mayo on pasta, mayo on salad, mayo in gallo pinto. I am not a mayo fan at all. On the plus side, most restaurants have several hot Hearts of Palm dishes on the menu, a fantastic way to eat Hearts of Palm and a nice change from the out-of-the can selection in most American restaurants.

[Les Salt]

Chiquitalinda mentions Lizano - the ubiquitous salsa product of Costa Rica. I have to admit I'm addicted to the stuff - especially now that BBQ weather is coming up but I'm having trouble finding any in New York.

I used to pick it up (in the tall plastic containers) when I went to CR on treks and

I knew a number of stores in LA that always stocked a few bottles. However, even though I've checked a number of places in NYC that carry food items from Mexico and Latin America, I haven't been lucky. Does anyone have a good source? Or know of a similar product?

The last I heard, the Lizano had been taken over by Unilever. I don't know if that changed the formula or packaging at all.

[Mayhaw Man]

Chiquitalinda mentions Lizano - the ubiquitous salsa product of Costa Rica. I have to admit I'm addicted to the stuff - especially now that BBQ weather is coming up but I'm having trouble finding any in New York.

I used to pick it up (in the tall plastic containers) when I went to CR on treks and

I knew a number of stores in LA that always stocked a few bottles. However, even though I've checked a number of places in NYC that carry food items from Mexico and Latin America, I haven't been lucky. Does anyone have a good source? Or know of a similar product?

The last I heard, the Lizano had been taken over by Unilever. I don't know if that changed the formula or packaging at all.

I have asked about Lizano before in other threads. I LOVE the stuff. It is one of the best all purpose condiments in the history of condimentdom. Oddly, the last place I found any was recently in a salvage store called Hudson's on the Mississippi Gulf COast. We bought the whole case of 700 ml. bottles. I love that stuff.

The importer listed on the bottle is as follows:

Best Food Division

CPC International

Englewood Cliffs, NJ

When you do a quick search on the web it turns out that CPC Internationalis a law firm specializing in all kinds of stuff (what a specialty). I am going to call them this week and see what is up with that.

Recently, I asked Foodie52, who works at the best grocery store on the Planet Earth (The main branch of Central Market in Austin) if they carried it. She responded that people asked about it all of the time, but that they had never been able to determine where to get the stuff.

It is a condiment conundrum and someone needs to get to the bottom of it.

As far as Costa Rica and Food go, I like the food down there. but that is probably because I like all the stuff that Ticos eat.Beans, rice, meat, fish, plantains are pretty much what I eat here. I have had a couple of reasonably outstanding meals (particularly seafood in Manuel Antonio and Quepos), but then again- they were pretty simple.

Our trips down there involve flying in, renting a car, and driving. We rarely have reservations anywhere, except Manuel Antonio ( Villas Nicholas-just because it is small and sometimes full. A very, very cool place near the entrance to the park. Unbelievable views off the porch of the cabinas) and just stop and see what's available. Costa Rica is beautiful, cheap, and fun. I love the place. The last time I was down I spent a couple of days at Arenal watching the volcano and bass fishing. It was a nice change of pace from the beach.

[Les Salt]

Thanks Mayhaw Man. Let me know what you find out.

The only place I even came close to finding Lizano in NYC was in a little place in Chelsea - somewhere near 7th and 22? 23? - sorry forget the name. It was a small Mexican restaurant that had a take-out section and Latin dry goods store next door.

When I asked if they had Lizano, the proprietor said: "Oh yeah, we get a few bottles now and then but it sells in like, five minutes. We had to keep the bottles under the counter for our regular customers who were on a waiting list. Last time we brought in a case so it would last longer and the first guy who walks in, sees a bottle on the shelf and demands that we sell the whole case to him."

I tell you this stuff is like drugs.

Of course the store owner had no idea when they would get more, if at all.

Seems to me like a typical example of what we used to call in our pre-PC days, "Polish Marketing". As in: Find out what the people want and don't let them have it.

Myself, I've always enjoyed Costa Rican cooking. But in the days when I used to hang out there I didn't have to look for restaurants. I stayed with a friend who employed a woman from a nearby town as a housekeeper and she cooked like a dream.

[Mayhaw Man]

I'll look into it as I am interested in whether they even HAVE a regular importer in the US. I find it very odd that a law firm is listed as their importer.

Another thing that seems to put off many tourists on the food is that they seem to be looking for big, North American style restaurants and often, the places are just afew tables in front of a small building. There is some great seafood dining on the west coast, but people look for it in hotels and tourist places, which is kind of dumb down there as I have never met a group of people who were easier to deal with than Ticos. It is true that not many of them speak that much English outside of big tourist spots, but they are extremely patient with people stumbling around in Spanish. In fact, with bizarre traffic patterns and extreme dearth of roadsigns (I believe that they take them down so that you will be FORCED to stop and ask directions, and of course buy something out of politeness) has actually improved my awful gringo spanglish over the years.

It's a great place and if you live near New Orleans and can fly out of there, a pretty cheap long weekend with a reasonably short, pleasant flight (after the stop in Cozumel to dump off the college kids). Get there around lunch, rent a car (small Japanese 4 wd is a good bet) and you are out of San Jose and into the country by 3. We have made it to Arenal by dark once, and to Quepos in about the same time, got there in time to swim on the first beach at Manuel Antonio National Park. The monkeys in these photographs look great in the photos, but they are really aggressive as hell. When walking up to the peak (worth it every time) to see all of the beaches at once, we are always happier when we don't see them. Sloths on the other hand are, well, pretty slothful. The beaches here usually end up on the top ten in the world lists. THey are never very crowded, as this is a pretty primitive place and the park is a walk in deal only. I hope that they keep it this way. THere has been lots of construction in the area in the last ten years and they are in danger of loving the place to death.

[Les Salt]

That lawyer connection IS a strange one. And here is another weird lead. I found an old bottle of Lizano that I had brought back from CA and the name

Productos Agroindustriales del Caribe, S.A was listed on the label.

When I Googled that it brought up this link http://www.bruncas.com/crexport/emp0670.htm

Isn’t area code 506 in New Brunswick? Hmmm...the case continues.

One thing I have had better luck with is ordering Costa Rican coffee beans via the Internet. I get it from a coffee plantation called Doka Estate http://www.dokaestate.com and I usually order the “Estate Peabody” beans. It makes the best cup of coffee going. Or you can phone the farm at 1-877-789-DOKA

No kidding about those monkeys. The room I stayed in (on the west coast) had open windows and they used to run in and out and make total pests of themselves. But did you ever hear the SOUND that they make when they are asserting their “I’m the top banana” claim. The first time I heard it, it scared the shit out me! I’m serious. I thought King Kong himself was just outside my window. Then in pops this tiny little monkey the size of a chihuahua. Go figure.

Hey, New Orleans is terrific. I was there for the jazz fest last year. Had a great time listening to music until dawn and then started the morning with a Hurricane Slurpee for breakfast. Doesn’t get more civilized than that.

edited to fix link

Edited May 17, 2004 by Les Salt (log)

[anil]

Isn’t area code 506 in New Brunswick? Hmmm...the case continues.

011 506 [506 is the country code]

[Les Salt]

Oh, that's right! duh!!!

Thanks for the reminder.

[afoodnut]

For everyone looking for Lizano hot sauce:

I was reading the Denver Favorite Italian Red Sauce thread, and what should be at the top of the page but a google link for ordering Lizano Sauce?

Edited May 20, 2004 by afoodnut (log)

[ninadora]

i bring back gallons of the stuff and never use it...i did when i was in college and ate rice and beans...blah stuff but now..it just sits there but i keep buying it and bringing it home, like a creepy obsessive ritual...

anyone in nyc desperatly in need of lizano i have a couple of gallons up for grabs....it doesn't seem to go bad?

btw..the store in chelsea that sells the hot sauce is kitchen market. YUM!

[MT-Tarragon]

I've travelled extensively throughout latin america, and I'd have to say that hands down Costa Rica has the worst food.

←

<p>

Is the food really worse than Bolivian food? Not that the food was awful in Bolivia, but it was typically pretty bland stuff -- meat, cooked; rice, plain; onion salad.

<p>

I was thinking of honeymooning in Costa Rica, but you're all scaring me. I was thinking of dropping in at the <a href="http://www.cerrocoyote.com/">Coyote Mountain Inn</a> which is supposed to have good food and even cooking classes. Has anyone been in there or known someone who has?

<p>

-Matt

[bentherebfor]

I'm headed for Costa Rica too, for spring break. I was looking forward to trying out the cuisine, but I have to say, I'm feeling a little pessimistic about it at this point.

Is there a dish that is frequently served that is worth knowing about in advance?

What about a dish that absolutely must be avoided (In terms of an American palate)?

Thanks for the help.

Also any notable restaurants in the San Jose area would be greatly appreciated....

B.

[crouching tyler]

I just returned from 2+ weeks in Costa Rica. While it is certainly not a foodie destination, we were able to find plenty of good food, and even some great food. If you must have fabulous food of incredible diversity during your travels, Costa Rica is not the place for you. There are plenty of other reasons to go to Costa Rica, however.

A summary from the food perspective. We had:

- many well-prepared simple meals

- one incredible steak

- daily doses of fresh fruit juices and/or batidos

- consistently superior coffee ( we only had 1 bad cup of coffee in 16 days )

- surprisingly good beer (Batavia Dark)

and one of my favorite foods on the planet: plantains ( platanos). I had them every day, in one of several forms (none of which are healthy, by the way).

And we, too, returned with a hearty appreciation for Linzano - and 3 bottles of it. Good to know there is a source in the U.S. I think it will be part of permanent condiment repetoire, henceforth.

I 'll probably post a few of my recommendations in the next day or so. Like others, I had heard warnings of dire dining in Costa Rica. I was happy to be pleasantly surprised again and again.

[Magala]

If Costa Rica really isn't the place to find delicious examples of unique local specialties, surely there's some saving grace somewhere in a restaurant in San Jose. Give me hope.

I've got two nights in San Jose to have dinner. If I'm "typical Tico" food is crossed off the list, are there other good restaurants? French? Italian? Can I have a great meal somewhere?

The owner of the B&B where we are staying bragged that there were many terrific local restaurants that she would be happy to recommend. When I wrote back asking for her advice on great food, great chefs, and a really memorable meal, she replied, "Well, I have a guidebook you can read. There might be something in there."

[Edible Vancouver]

My wife and I have just booked our flights to CR for 3 weeks in October (before I read this post). You now all have me very scared, however, I am also intrigued to see if it will be as bad as I am now expecting.

We both generally travel solely based on food, so this is a complete depature for us. That being said, I find it hard to believe we will not be able to find decently prepared fresh fish and shellfish, fruits, etc.

We will be varying our accomodation choices which will range from the Four Seasons to tents in the Jungle, so we hope to experience all sides. As with all my travels, we will document everything and take lots of photos so I will certainly report back.

Just out of curiosity - has anyone else been there in October as it seems we are going in the "greenest" month of the year. What should we expect in terms of weather and restaurant closures?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheers,

Eric

[Magala]

We went in July 06. As they say, Tico food is pretty basic, and everything comes with rice and beans, even breakfast. As far as we could tell, restaurant food most places was good at best, but mostly just OK. Eat cheap meals at your average roadside restaurant; the food was just as good and often better than the spendier places.

We had a memorable meal in La Fortuna, by the Arenal volcano. It's the little outdoor steakhouse mentioned in all the guidebooks, about 2km outside of La Fortuna. It's a big blue and white open-air place with a parking lot. It's very good steak. Shockingly, they also had Chilean wine that was pretty good for $8 a bottle. We stuffed ourselves and drank one bottle (plus two glasses) of wine for a total of $45.

(Note: avoid wine in Costa Rica in all but the most expensive restaurants.)

What makes the steakhouse exceptional is its view of the volcano. In the pouring rain and the heavy cloud, we all stared up into the darkness in the general direction of the volcano. You'd hear someone say "look!" and the restaurant staff would hustle to turn out all the lights so people could see the lava. We'd see a few explosions, or catch a few seconds of it flowing down the mountainside. Then it was gone and everyone returned to their steaks and wine.

Our second memorable meal was at a remote eco resort called Bosque del Cabo on the Osa peninsula. They had OUTSTANDING food, three meals a day that impressed and delighted all of the foodie guests. For an example of one particular meal, some of the guests caught some sort of big snapper one morning. The kitchen served it up as ceviche and sushi during happy hour, then baked it in a salt crust and served it to everyone for dinner. Very yummy and cooked to perfection.