25 for $25

[ScorchedPalate]

Luckily, Cam and I are perfectly happy to have separate opinions where tasty food is concerned. :)

In other words, you're fine with Cam hanging onto his misguided opinions about some foods?

Heh, yep! And he is tolerant of my biases, too, which include an unnatural affection for dried coconut, which he terms "pencil shavings."

Speaking of which, I had the ever-glorious coconut cream pie tonight at Etta's. We basically split the 25/$25 menu's three courses, and added on other things that were too good to pass up, to make (at least) two meals' worth of food.

The 25/$25 meal also included perfectly-prepped Etta's "rub-with-love" salmon, which was served with southern-style greens, and a cornbread pudding that was decadent enough to actually deserved the name. Cam had the oysters (only two, but perfect as always, chez Douglas) as his starter. Alternate options were iceberg wedge with bleu (starter), Alaskan snapper (main), and cherry sorbet (dessert). Considering that the salmon alone goes for $24, I think we got our money's worth.

~Anita

[tsquare]

Did my Union duty (and hi tighe and scrat who were also there, again...) and have to say, call me a peasant. It was all so nice, but nothing popped for our table. I guess I like more assertive flavors. We joked about going out for pizza afterwards - we ended up feeling satisfied, but this is not a big meal, still a deal, but not my taste. Ah well.

[Really Nice!]

...And finally, an anecdote. Our waiter was just a bit behind all night -- we sat for some time waiting to put in our order, our wine would arrive just after the food that we'd ordered it for, he got the first bottle wrong...not big stuff. He knew it was happening and apologized profusely toward the end of the meal, explaining that he had one of the local food critics at another table and implying that things weren't going as smoothly as they should.

Here's a Seattle PI review of Union two days later...

[tighe]

Did my Union duty (and hi tighe and scrat who were also there, again...) and have to say, call me a peasant. It was all so nice, but nothing popped for our table.

My sieve-like memory for names and faces betrays me again.....

I loved the menu, thought it was maybe even better than what we had last week.

[vengroff]

We visited Union again last night for the $25 tasting menu. The main dining room was full when we arrived shortly before 8, so it seems that the $25 tasting menu strategy is working. I hope these people keep coming back when it reverts to $48, because even at that price it is more than worth every penny.

I haven't written as much about the food itself here as I should. But rather than focus specifically on what we had last night, since it will be different tomorrow or the next day, I'd like to offer some observations from multiple visits.

First, Chef Ethan Stowell is a master of avian cookery. From tiny quail with crisp cracking skin over smooth savory bits of meat, to duck breast served perfectly medium rare over wilted greens, to the house confit of guinea hen, it's all first rate. Every bird that comes out of the kitchen has the kind of bold distinctive flavor that makes you realize just how much is missing from the chicken dishes you might pay similar prices for at other restaurants. Foie is, as one would expect, perfectly executed, in a thick slice with crisp seared sides, accompanied by a rotating selection of fruits.

Second, the fish courses. Union sources from the east coast and Europe in addition to the Northwest. They get fish like rouget, sturgeon and dorade that you don't see as often as often as the ubiquitious salmon and halibut. But far from just being a novelty, these fish are put into well-executed combinations that really bring out their particular characteristincs.

Finally, the cheeses, which are uniformly exceptional, and presented at the peak. You can tell Union is serious simply by looking at the goat cheeses they stock. Not once have I ever seen a milky white round of young chevre. Instead, it is made clear that goat cheeses exist in a broad spectrum, just as their cow and sheep counterparts do. If a blue goat cheese appears on the menu when you visit, jump on it.

Last night we continued our odyssey through wine director Reinier Voorwinde's half-bottle collection. It ended up being a California does Rhone kind of evening. We started with a Treana Mer Soleil Marsanne/Viognier. It's a nice alternative to your run of the mill Chard. Next up was the Fife L'attitude 39, which kept us happy though the meat and cheese courses.

Others may disagree, but I really like eating at the bar in general, and Union is no exception. One of the advantages of sitting at the bar is that Avel and/or Jason can guide you through their extensive selection of European aperitifs and digestifs--not just your standard Campari and Lillet, but more exotic stuff like the strangely satisfying herbacious Liquer Fabrique par Les Freres Chartreaux.

By all means, whether you've been already or not, get yourself to Union and support what they are doing during their $25 promotion. More importantly, keep supporting them once the promotion is over.

[seacrotty]

The 25/$25 meal also included perfectly-prepped Etta's "rub-with-love" salmon, which was served with southern-style greens, and a cornbread pudding that was decadent enough to actually deserved the name.

A late contribution about our dinner at Etta's... Once again, I was reminded of the power of local ingredients. I usually avoid salmon at restaurants because I've eaten too many plates over the years served up by cooks who 1) couldn't get the good stuff and 2) didn't know what to do with it when they did. But at the risk of sounding like a tourist, I am coming to love ordering salmon in the PacNW. The fish at Etta's was tender, perfectly cooked, and delicately flavored.

c

[Blue Heron]

Last evening's $25 dinner at Union...

Celery Root Foam, served in a demitasse - this light foam packed a wonderful intense & fresh flavor, and was outstandingly delicious. Thumbs up!

Stellar Bay Oysters with Casa Brina Olive Oil and Meyer Lemon - 2 small oysters on the half shell served icey cold, I liked these a lot.

Carrot Soup with Guinea Hen and Leek Salad - the standout here was the flavorful shreds of Guinea Hen that were served on top of the soup. I would have loved a plate of that Guinea Hen! Yum. The vinegar in the leek salad was slightly distracting to me, however, and the carrot soup mainly served as a foil to enjoy that wonderful Guinea Hen.

Seared Ahi Tuna with Avocado Puree and Blood Orange - Seared crisply on the outside with just a little sea salt, and then unctuously tender rare on the inside, this was excellent, and paired well with the puree/guacamole type sauce underneath it w/blood orange puree surrounding the avocado puree.

30 Day Dry Aged Beef Loin with Oyster Mushrooms and Red Wine Sauce - Maximum amounts of mmmmms and yums around the table as we ate these thin slices of (med rare I think?) beef that were fanned over perfectly cooked mushrooms and excellent saucing, too.

Blue De Gex Raw Cow's Milk Blue with Frisee Salad - very good, but didn't knock my socks off. Served w/ thin sliced current walnut bread. The frisee was good.

Green Apple Sorbet with Creme Fraiche - disappointing. Not much flavor here.

Chocolate Mousse with Brandied Whipped Cream - not too sweet, just the way we all like it and a nice way to end a terrific meal. We drank a Willamette Pinot Noir with our dinner, which was tasty.

*note - Unfortunately I won't be able to make it to Thursday's group dinner here. Have fun guys!

Also, last night as we were arriving we had some added entertainment with the 8 story building right across the street being knocked down. Once the restaurant even shook a bit! Fortunately the engineers have organized it so the building pieces fall in that contained area. :)

[ScorchedPalate]

*note - Unfortunately I won't be able to make it to Thursday's group dinner here. Have fun guys!

Rats! We'll miss you.

[SeaGal]

I'd be happy to fill in Blue Heron's place on Thursday night. Let me know if you want me.

Jan

[tsquare]

I took in the $12.50 lunch at Earth and Ocean. Same menu as dinner with smaller portions. Stuffed anyway.

They gave me an extra taste of creamy lucious sunchoke soup with my meal. Their bread is a basic french, but with a moist dough, slightly sweet. Salad was shaved fennel and watercress with flash fried capers. These are salty and addictive. Main was a slightly chewy rare hanger steak over grits and onions with a red wine sauce, and some broccoli rabe. Very good. Dessert - 3 smallish housemade fig stuffed shortbreads with dried cherry compote, two sauces, and a small pastry cup filled with a ball of lemon sorbet.

Made me wish I had gotten there for the menu they served the first half of the month. Such a deal!

[sequim]

Ooh whee, I just got a rez for the last day of the month's $25 special at Union! I've never been there and after reading everything I'm very excited to go. If anyone else is thinking of going next week, their times have gotten very limited, mostly just 5pm and then after 8pm.

[LEdlund]

I just wanted to remind everyone of our dinner tomorrow night. I have confirmed the reservation for:

me

SeaGal

HeyJude and Richard

MsRamsey

Seawakim and Seawadave

Fwed and Ed

ScorchedPalate and Seacrotty

The reservation is for 6:00. Don't forget to bring cash - probably around $40.00 if you're not drinking wine, more if you are. I figure the most fair way to split the bill is to come up with two prices. One for the wine drinkers and one for the non-wine drinkers.

A couple of people have asked me what is the appropriate attire for Union. I've only been there once and I don't remember what others were wearing (I was on my way to the symphony and dressed accordingly). Can anyone who has been there more recently answer this?

Looking forward to seeing everyone tomorrow.

Lauren

[ScorchedPalate]

"Seattle nice" -- meaning men pass unnoticed in jeans and nice sweater, would be more comfy in chinos and a nice shirt, and might be considered a little overdressed in a suit. The times we have been there, I have seen people in all of the above, though. We usually dress just a touch nicer than our normal workwear when we're going out to dinner, and we were comfortable that way all three times we've been. If the chef's table is the one right near the pass, we should be fine, temperature-wise, but for all other diners I recommend wearing or bringing a jacket or sweater that you're comfortable eating in, in case you get seated in one of the meatlocker-esque window alcoves.

[SeaGal]

I'm looking forward to both the dinner and to meeting everyone--also to seeing LEdlund and MsRamsey again after our Salumi trek.

Jan

[laurel]

Here are some pictures from when I went to Union on the 15th:

Guinea Hen Pate:

Roasted Beets, Chevre, and Watercress:

Kohlrabi Soup with Foie Gras Mousse:

Seared Tuna with Grapefruit, Avocado Puree, and Parsley Oil:

Rare Duck Breast with Chantrelles and Porcini Mushrooms and Port Glaze:

Lemon Sorbet:

Vanilla Panna Cotta in Grapefruit Soup with Mint Chiffonade:

[heyjude]

Nine of us just enjoyed the $25 Tasting Menu at Union. Except enjoyed is a feeble word for one of the best restaurant meals Seattle has to offer. Chef Ethan Stowell was incredibly generous to us and stopped by our table to say he regularly reads eGullet. While it would be difficult to choose a favorite from the nine courses, the vanilla bean flan was flawless. Our menu was quite different from the ones previously described, but beautifully balanced and just the right amount. Service was also great. Thank you, Hans. We can't wait to return.

[sequim]

Nine of us just enjoyed the $25 Tasting Menu at Union. Except enjoyed is a feeble word for one of the best restaurant meals Seattle has to offer. Chef Ethan Stowell was incredibly generous to us and stopped by our table to say he regularly reads eGullet. While it would be difficult to choose a favorite from the nine courses, the vanilla bean flan was flawless. Our menu was quite different from the ones previously described, but beautifully balanced and just the right amount. Service was also great. Thank you, Hans. We can't wait to return.

That sounds wonderful, I wish I could have been there!

Does anyone have time to post what you had?

[ScorchedPalate]

Does anyone have time to post what you had?

I think LEdlund took home a copy of the menu for transcription.

But I've actually got two 25/$25-related questions for the assembled:

1) This one came up last night at dinner, and I thought it would make a nice sub-thread. Purely for the sake of argument: Given that there are 23 weeknights (Sun-Thur) this year in March, which of two the participants would you choose to avoid if you were trying to eat out every night of the promotion? (And yes, since Union isn't officially participating, I guess you'd have to lose 3 of the 'real' places.) Here's the list, so you don't have to scroll up.

2) Back to reality: I've got a hankerin' for Italian. Given that we've never been to any of the three, would you recommend Assaggio, Tulio, or Serafina? (I've already gotten a pretty firm wave-off on Vivanda...)

~A

[sequim]

I think LEdlund took home a copy of the menu for transcription.

But I've actually got two 25/$25-related questions for the assembled:

1) This one came up last night at dinner, and I thought it would make a nice sub-thread. Purely for the sake of argument: Given that there are 23 weeknights (Sun-Thur) this year in March, which of two the participants would you choose to avoid if you were trying to eat out every night of the promotion? (And yes, since Union isn't officially participating, I guess you'd have to lose 3 of the 'real' places.) Here's the list, so you don't have to scroll up.

2) Back to reality: I've got a hankerin' for Italian. Given that we've never been to any of the three, would you recommend Assaggio, Tulio, or Serafina? (I've already gotten a pretty firm wave-off on Vivanda...)

~A

I'll reply to #2 to praise Tulio as I simply love that place. However, I've never been there for dinner, just lunch as over the past few years I've always worked in the vicinity. I've never had a bad plate there. The only bad thing was one waitress who's just terribly slow and clueless. I hope she doesn't work there anymore. The last time I was at Tulio I had their pea vine and gorgonzola tortelli (the ravioli type pasta so not sure if I spelled it right) - it was awesome and came with a pea vine broth.

I've only been to Serafina once and found their service was really bad although the food was good. Never been to Assaggio.

Edited March 26, 2004 by sequim (log)

[LEdlund]

Here's last nights menu:

Seaweed salad with sesame oil and sesame seeds

I am a sucker for anything with sesame oil so, for me, this was the perfect amuse.

Striped Bass Tartare

It was bound together with avocado and lime. The avocado I have been buying lately have tasted nothing like this did. Very creamy, buttery and fresh tasting.

Watercress Soup

In the middle of the bowl was a dollop of creamy fennel and crab salad topped with a special treat just for us - caviar! I can't remember who said it, but the comment was made that this soup is how green tastes. It was so vibrant. It's funny, but until I looked at the menu this morning I had no idea there was crab or fennel in that salad. I don't know what I thought it was, but I would have never guessed crab or fennel. I guess I was overwhelmed by the generosity of the caviar.

Seared Ahi Tuna

This was sitting on top of a sort of ragout of fiddlehead ferns, bacon and lemon. The tuna was warm all the way through while remaining to be raw. The ferns were slightly tangy and the bacon, well, smoky. We decided Ethan is the king of texture. This really showcased his talants.

Seared Foie Gras

How spoiled are we? We are so spoiled that we had extra course, just for us. And this course was superb. It was paired with blood oranges and a reduction of some sort. As good eGulleters should, we practically licked the plates clean.

Grilled Lamb Chop

With potato puree, red wine sauce and hazelnut oil. As the crab and fennel, I didn't detect the hazelnut oil. I'm not usually a lamb lover (except for Vij's popsicles) but these might convince me I do love lamb.

Blue de Gex

Served with toasted pecans and a port reduction. Mmmmm creamy cheese and warm pecans.

Pinapple and Banana Sorbet

With Creme Fraiche. Not my favorite course. Luckily Ed was able to help me finish

Vanilla Bean Flan

When I saw this on the menu, my heart sunk. I have a real aversion to flan. Can't stand it usually. I thought, well at least I will save those calories! Of course I had to have a taste before I passed it on to a more appreciative diner. Let me tell you, this was a real surprise to me. I loved it. The texture was more creamy than I think of for flan. It was topped with unsweetened whipped cream and the combination of the two flavors and textures fun.

I wasn't involved much in the ordering of the wines (just the imbibing of them) so I'll let someone else speak to those. There was a Pinot Noir that I really liked. And a Riesling.

It was a fun group. So many lively conversations going, sometimes I felt I was having three at once! MsRamsey and I were commenting on the wonderful friends we have made through eGullet. We have a great community here.

[sequim]

Thank you very much LEdlund for the night's recap! I'll also be happy to hear what wines were drunk and enjoyed.

That's what I love about the eGulleters - they may have an aversion to something but they're always willing to give it a second chance.

[lala]

Has anyone done the $25 thing at Kaspars? How was it?

[seacrotty]

I can't remember who said it, but the comment was made that this soup is how green tastes.

I'll take credit for the green comment. Thanks for the recap, LEdlund. And thanks to all the eGulleters -- I had a wonderful time meeting you all.

There were at least six different bottles of wine flying around. Dimly, he remembers:

St. Innocent Pinot Noir: Most complex non-French pinot I've ever tasted. Lotsa fruit on the nose, then leather, tobacco, spice, vanilla, mineral. Yum.

Jean Baptiste Adam Tokay Pinot Gris (Alsace): Just sweet enough, and a little caramel/honey. I ordered a glass to sip before we started, and then the group decided it sounded good enough for all, although Union doesn't put it on their list by the bottle. Nevertheless, Hans (our server and sometime maitre d') obliged.

Hans also appreciated our show of strength in the wine department, relating unhappily the story of the group of eight that recently came in, ordered the 25 for 25$ menu, and drank nothing but water all night long. No offense intended to the teetotalers out there.

There was a French chablis and another red down at our end of the table, and I know that the other end of the table had a couple of bottles of the Qupé syrah.

cameron

Edited to repair broken sentence and add sad water anecdote.

Edited March 26, 2004 by seacrotty (log)

[SeaGal]

OK, Union just became my favorite special occasion spot--or any occasion spot. Last night's tasting menu was impeccable and amazing! It's rare for me to be bowled over by every course in a meal and I can honestly say that each course was the closest thing to perfect that I've experienced all in one meal.

Thank you LEdlund for the detailed explanations of the meal. Though I loved it all, the standouts for me were the Striped Bass Tartare, the Foie Gras with blood orange and the perfectly cooked (on the rare side of med. rare) lamb with it's reduction sauce and the ethereal potato puree-I'm a real lamb lover. Although, the watercress soup was also a revelation (I think it was Seacrotty's observation about it being how green should taste) and the flan was definitely the best I've ever had and the tuna was amazing--see, it's hard to pick out a favorite

As far as wines, I should remember cause I helped order, but I only remember that we had 2 whites--the reisling which was very nice, but sweeter than I care for and a 2000 Chablis, but not sure which one. The Chablis was really good, very dry and minerally and a perfect match for the seabass tartare. The other two wines were the Pinot Noir which LEdlund mentioned and a Rhone Gigondas. I hope that Scorched Palate and/or Seacrotty will fill in the details on the wine. I thought the wines were really good and reasonably priced.

It was great meeting everyone--what a fun group of folks to have a meal with

[LEdlund]

Jean Baptiste Adam Tokay Pinot Gris (Alsace)

That's right, I thought it was a Riesling but it was this wine. I loved this.