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David Shaw


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Russ, I'm not trying to cause anyone grief, I'm just curious about how Shaw gets to do what he gets to do. He seems to know some stuff about food, but IMHO not as much as say you or Colman Andrews for example. Still, he gets to go to France (and Spain) and gorge himself on great meals and wine. He gets to go to wine auctions and place bids on very expensive bottles for himself and Selvaggio (Valentino). He seems like a jet setting foodie with a diplomatic pouch. And he gets paid (handsomely, I assume) to do it. But frankly, allthough his adventures provide vicarious thrills (and heavy doses of envy), I've rarely noticed any meaningul insight into food or wine. I'm not bitter, just curious how this came about. Thanks. And as long as I'm here, what's your opinion on the best burger in LA?

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David is a very good friend of mine and one of the most passionate eaters I know. Contrary to what you might expect, almost all of his grand adventures are self-funded. Almost unique among food writers, he's been doing this stuff for the last 20 years only because he likes it (a short stint several years ago as restaurant critic at, I believe, GQ excepted). This is not a case of Johnny Apple one-man-cost-center.

I suppose I can understand why some people don't care for this approach. For myself, as someone who does NOT live the culinary high-life, I find it kind of fascinating. Not that I'd want to do it myself. Let me also point out for those of you who don't follow the Times, David is our Pulitzer Prize-winning media critic and has taken on his own paper on some fairly serious issues, something that takes a fair amount of ... well, rocky mountain oysters.

Best burger? So subjective. I have to say I've always found both the Apple Pan and Pie 'n' Burer disappointing, but I recognize that I am nearly alone in that. My choices are mainly local, as burgers are not something I travel across town for. Since local for me means Long Beach, I'll pick the one at Jongewaard's Bake 'n' Broil (get the special and have a wonderful piece of pie, too). For fast food, I don't think In'n' Out can be touched. It's enough to give hope to fast food.

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