Lake Orta region

[talpearl]

Dear Bill Klapp

Thanks for great Info on Piemont region

Travelling to that region in end of November

Thought of starting my trip in and around Lake Orta

Any great places to eat ?

[robert brown]

Talpearl, just call me Bob Klapp. One third of the Michelin three-star restaurants are very near the Lake of Orta, which is the say Ristorante Al Sorrisso. My one encoounter with it is abouot seven years old and for what it's worth, we were not bowled over. But that is meaningless. Just in principle you should go because it's there. Pinocchio in Borgomanero (one of the hardest-to-find restaurants in all of Piemonte) has for the past 20 years never let us down. Our last dinner 18 months ago was very good, although we experienced one highly contemporary dish, as if the chef had been down to Roses (el Bulli).

This area of Piemonte is terrific for discount shopping: Loro Piana, Colombo, Agnona, and others. It's worth digging out the info. on the web. In Quarona, where the Loro Piana factory and discount store is the "Bib Gourmand" restaurant Italia, which gave us a tasty, solid, honest and well-priced lunch.

Where are you staying? We have spent nights in both San Rocco and the pseudo-Moorish "folie" Villa Crespi. We much prefer the former. While contemporary and not as distinctive as the latter, it is just as comfortable and, most important, right on the lake and a five minute walk into the old, rather charming village of Orta San Giulio. Villa Crespi is not on the lake and not near anything where you can walk to and kill some time.

[Bill Klapp]

I AM Bill Klapp, and here we have one of those rare moments of disagreement. Robert ordered the wrong thing at Al Sorriso seven years ago, and I am still at a loss to imagine what it might have been! It is the finest ristorante that I have visited in Italia (so far), and amazingly unstuffy (and not terribly expensive) for a three-star. Great fish dishes, great wine list and a cheese cart from God! And I favor the delightfully "pseudo-Moorish" (we agree on that!) Villa Crespi, which has a fine restaurant in its own right. I do agree on Pinocchio, however.

[robert brown]

I recollect having something akin to a shrimp cocktail at Al Sorriso, but it isn't a matter of ordering wrong since the dish should not have been offered in the first place. But I have it in mind to go back.

I found the Villa Crespi kind of spooky in places and somewhat isolated. I would stay at San Rocco, still.

[talpearl]

Rob & Bill

Thanks for the info

I thought of villa crespi but have been convinced by both of you to stay at san rocco

For the rest of piedmont should i be reserving spots at rests. at this time if i'll be there in end of nov

[robert brown]

talpearl, Bill votes for the Villa Crespi. What can I say? How many nights will you be staying around the lake?

I wold certainly book your restaurants. It is still the busy period. What have you selected? Right now I am high on Il Centro in Priocca d'Alba, as is Bill. That would be my #1. I'll leave it there.

[talpearl]

Robert and Bill

After doing some extensive research on the web on trying to find the best restaurants in Piedmont I have come with a list of great places based on hear say

I would like your input as to the 3 best, must eat while in the region,great food and wine, restaurants in the heart of piedmont

Leave atmosphere up to my girlfriend who will be sitting

across from me

Since you guys have extensively visited this area I am fully going to rely on your advice

Here' s my list

1.Da cesare .......Alboretto della Torre

2.Casinalenuova ...... Alba

3.Giardino de Felicin.....Monfort d'alba

4.Locanda nel Bergo Antico

5.la Posta

6.Il Centro

7.Sancarlos Hotel

or any choice that outweighs these?

Waiting for the vote from the experts

Thanks

[robert brown]

talpearl, I have dined in all but two; Borgo Antico and Sancarlo. Bill, I am sure, has hit all of them several times, while I have visited these places between once and three times) But since you ask (and Bill can back me up or contradict me), here's what I think:

Your list covers several of the good ones. I think we would put Enoteca in Canale (just down the road from Il Centro) on the list and maybe even one of the three you should visit. Felicin has pretty much been exposed as a money-grubbing tourist trap and lacking in integrity. Bill would agree with me on that, I am sure. Cascinalenuovo I have been to just once. I though it was good, but not a place I felt was distinguished. Trattoria Il Posto is more traditional than Il Centro and Enoteca, but real solid. I have found it a bit variable to a certain extent, however. Cesare is inventive without being off on a tangeant; but its specialty is simply grilled meat, particularly goat. Peaches with porcini is a great dish you will likely encounter. My list of three is Il Centro, Enoteca and Cesare.

[Bill Klapp]

Talpearl, I drafted a long-winded response, but lost my connection as I was trying to send it! Robert is right-I strongly favor Crespi, because, while everything Robert says about san Rocco is true, I find that it has something of a European convention hotel quality about it. Nix Felicin and Sancarlino, and definitely do Trattoria della Posta in Monforte. I would also nix Cascinale Nuovo, which, while good, has a lame and overpriced wine list. I have not been to Borgo Antico or Da Cesare lately, but have heard good reports on both. I still say that Sorriso is the best ristorante in the Piemonte, and not to be missed. Il Centro keeps getting better and better. A friend had a funghi (mushroom) feast there two nights ago. I also second Robert's recommendation of All' Enoteca (also called Enoteca del Roero) in Canale. More to follow...

[Schneier]

I dined at Al Sorriso once last year. I didn't save my noted, so can't post a review. But it was an excellent meal.

Tiny restaurant, so make reservations early.

Bruce

[robert brown]

Bill, you also get a tonier clientele at the Villa Crespi while San Rocco is more bourgeois and families, though I doubt you'll get kids at that time of year. One factor wold be how much time one spends out and about. I just found it nice to be able to walk into town and gaze at the lake.

Talpearl, where are you staying after the lake? Trattoria della Posta might be worth trying to work in since it is the more down-to-earth cuisine-wise than the three I suggeted. But I would be lost to tell you which of thoe three to throw out. My only complaint about Enoteca is the room and ambiance. It is on the second floor of the local enoteca and what seems to be the town hall. It is a little dreary, I thought. But that's not a reason to skip it. I guess you should try to add another meal unless you are down there just for a couple of nights.

[Bill Klapp]

Talpearl, sorry, but my laptop crashed as I was about to finish up. In Alba, we love Osteria Lalibera for a casual lunch or dinner. I also believe that Antine in Barbaresco is at least the equal of Il Centro, although with a less traditional atmosphere. In the Torino area, try Combal.0 in Rivoli (doing a Piemontese El Bulli thing) or Le carmagnole in Carmagnola (fixed price meal with matched wines; idiosyncratic but great fun). Finally, the long-awaited new Guido (actually, the second new Guido, but I think the one with the most promise) in Pollenzo is open (e-mail info@guidoristorante.com, phone +39 0172 458422, fax +39 0172 458970).

[cork]

"Finally, the long-awaited new Guido (actually, the second new Guido, but I think the one with the most promise) in Pollenzo is open (e-mail info@guidoristorante.com, phone +39 0172 458422, fax +39 0172 458970)."

Bill, have you eaten there? Do they have a running webpage?

[Bill Klapp]

www.guidoristorante.it is the webpage, but not much on Pollenzo (it covers Santo Stefano Belbo, too). Also, I suspect that info@guidoristorante.it, rather than ".com", is the e-mail address, despite what was given on the Pollenzo branch's business card. I have not eaten there yet. I hope to next week.

[JosephB]

Bill,

I was told that IL Centro is booked months in advance. Any insight into this?

[Bill Klapp]

That doesn't sound right to me.

[JosephB]

Thanks Bill. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

[RRainey]

Why are you taking about staying at lake Orta and driving all over the place to get to these restaurants?.

Why not stay in Alba which is more central to most of the places you want to go. Lalibera didn't do it for me I was there a couple of weeks ago,food was not of the quality of many other places. Had to ask for them to decant my Borolo, for the price highly overrated. Some say Osteria Del Arco has gone downhill i found it great,

Also has a nice 90 aldo Conterno Borolo single vineyard (don't remember the specific name of the vineyard) for 60 euro! A fabulous wine (first wine on Borolo page). RR

[JosephB]

Bill,

I was told that IL Centro is booked months in advance.  Any insight into this?

Bill,

What I should have said was that I heard that Il Centro's Fritto Misto alla Piemontese must be booked long in advance.

[Bill Klapp]

RRainey, glad to see your good report on Arco. It has gone through some changes in the last couple of years, but it was fabulous, and I hope that it has returned to form. Ate at Lalibera last night, with the following observations: involtini di peperone (roasted red and yellow peppers stuffed with tuna, capers and homemade mayonnaise) was the standard by which this dish should be measured; carne cruda was a little stringy and not as finely chopped as it could have been; vitello tonnato was of average quality; a small tart filled with a Parmesan-cardoon mixture and topped with a sunnyside-up QUAIL egg was off the charts good; crema di zucca (like a cream soup, but really, more solid than liquid-pumpkin puree with a ball of chestnut puree in the middle, sprinkled with cocoa powder) was also superb; tajarin with fenferli mushrooms was exquisite; cernia (fish) on a saffron-mushroom base also a big winner; cheese plate outstanding (11 varieties with an excellent cugna); white chocolate mousse with a hazelnut sauce was the dessert of the night, although my plate of 4 small desserts based upon mountain honey was a close second. Drank 2002 Almondo Arneis Ciliegie (the best Arneis that I have ever tasted) and Alfieri's "second-growth" Barbera d' Asti (behind Alfiera), La Tota, both at 12.50 Euro and both perfect with the meal.

[talpearl]

In the midst of arranging piedmonte trip for end Nov

This is what i have so far.

Booked dinners at Il Centro and Da Cesare.

Lunch at Enoteca in Canale.

First night at Villa Crespi in lake Orta cheaper tha San Rocco

Dinner at Al Sorriso

I still don't have lodging arrangements in the Alba region

Possibly villa Favoritta and Hotel Al Castello

Or my brother is arranging a visit with lodging at the Cerreto wineries

Anyone know about Cerreto wines and lodging?

Is La Meridiana nicer than the previous hotels ?

Am I missing out on anything?

Thought of visiting the Grand Paradiso National Park,small village of Pont

is said to be beautiful.

Waiting for a reply from the experts!!!

[Bill Klapp]

La Meridiana, and local B&Bs in general, are better than ANY Alba-area hotel. They are industrial in character! And this just in from my 2004 Gambero Rosso, purchased yesterday: at 90, GR rates the dining room at Villa Crespi the best ristorante in the Piemonte, 2 points ahead of Combal.0 and Flipot at 88, and 3 ahead of Al Sorriso at 87 (Le Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso rounds out the GR top five). Since Flipot, Sorriso and Combal.0 are three of my top five in Italia, query whether you should miss Villa Crespi! Work in a lunch at Crespi?

[RRainey]

I did not pass through Pont on this last trip but we did visit Cogne.Unfortunately two of the restaurants i wanted to go to were closed,Bon Bec and Lou Ressegnon. Scenery was great and town was nice. If you like small mountain towns with views of the alps i would go but not if you only have say one night there. We visited Macarini in La Morra which is very close to Belvedere a classic restaurant with a great view as the name suggests. RR