Cortona

[theakston]

We're off to Italy in a couple of weeks (10/10/04) for10 days distributed fairly evenly between Barolo, San Gimignano, Cortona and Firenze.

I have sifted through the various postings and have accumulated plenty of interesting looking rec's for the other 3 but Cortona seems to be missing

Has anyone got any recomendations for restaurants in the Cortona area?(the closer the better, we have a car but I prefer not to drive too far after a few / several drinks)

Thanks.

[toddlowe]

I'd recommend a visit to Il Falconiere, which is a restaurant/cooking school/small hotel just outside of Cortona, perhaps a ten minute drive. My bride and I stayed at the hotel and dined at the restaurant each evening for three days, and were very, very pleased with the experience. Knowledgeable staff (wine and food) and incredibly fresh ingredients made it a wonderful experience. They do have a web site you can visit prior to your trip.

Enjoy - wish it was time for me to visit Italy again!

[Craig Camp]

I have sifted through the various postings

God bless you!

In Cortona try:

Osteria del Teatro

**Taverna Pane e Vino (good basic home style regional cooking and formaggi and salumi) In my opinion this is the spot to eat real local food at real Italian prices.

Portale is very good but not cheap. Il Falconiere as mentioned above is the king of the hill (and price -Gambero Rosso gives it negative points for value).

[redwinegulper]

I agree with you about not driving too far for dinner in Cortona. Il Falconiere is quite good, but as Craig said, very expensive. I would try it one night, but don't expect that feeling of home with gandma in the kitchen. One thing you must try is the Enoteca called La Saletta located on via Nazionale (main street)for a grappa, cafe or gelato after dinner. It is not that it is the best gelato in Italy; but it is the perfect spot to sit outside and experince Italian life. After dinner eveyone (or at least it seemed that way) stolls up and down this street.

There are some great restaurants in the tuscan countryside, and visiting for lunch is a great way to do it. A few possiblities...Il Prato in Pienza, Il Pozzo in Monteriggioni, Locanda dell'Amorosa in Sinalunga

[Bill Klapp]

I have always found Cortona to be the darkest and least interesting of the Tuscan hill towns. Worse, that it was made famous by Under the Tuscan Sun is something of a condemnation of how little we Americani really know about what Italia has to offer. The two most notable features of Cortona are an interesting hat shop in the main piazza, and all of the Americans asking for directions to Frances Mayes' house (which I believe may have been turned into an overpriced rental at this point)! San Gimignano is also something of a one-trick pony. I would allot about 60 minutes for it, and move on. Firenze is of infinitely more interest, heavy tourist traffic and all, and if you are doing the Barolo thing, I would take a look at the recent Alba threads, and line yourselves up some fine meals in the area. For lunch in Barolo, I highly recommend the bar-ristorante (in the back room-the bar in front is dismal, but there is a cute dining room in the back) La Cantinetta on Via Roma (not to be confused with La Cantinella, elsewhere in Barolo). They serve traditional fare, but extremely well-executed. I had the best insalata russa there that I have ever tasted, and they also do awfully well with tajarin and other pastas. You have a fine ristorante there in Borgo Antico, but Trattoria della Posta is in nearby Monforte, as is Il Belvedere in La Morra. If there are any white truffles in this heat-blighted year, you will be in the right place in season. I wear my Piemonte bias on my sleeve, but one does not go to Tuscany primarily to eat well. You will have a perfect opportunity to see what I mean this trip. I'll be right behind you on 11 October...

[Craig Camp]

Worse, that it was made famous by Under the Tuscan Sun is something of a condemnation of how little we Americani really know about what Italia has to offer.  The two most notable features of Cortona are an interesting hat shop in the main piazza, and all of the Americans asking for directions to Frances Mayes' house (which I believe may have been turned into an overpriced rental at this point)!

The Italian Field of Dreams.

[theakston]

Never read the book but heard of it and gave it a wide berth. As I will the Mayes residence.

Bill:

I already looked through the Alba posts and I'm very glad that you recommend the 3 reservations I have for dinner: Borgo Antico, Trattoria della Posta and Il Belvedere!! (that's taken care of the 3 nights we are there!)

We'll check out the Cantinetta for Lunch if we are there during the day - we are also planning to visit the "they wont be any good this year" festival in Alba. Maybe we'll bump into you there?

[Bill Klapp]

You will dine well, my friend! When is the truffle fair this year? It is usually the last week in September, as I recall. This year, I am in denial about the whole business, since I ate so many cheap (a relative thing, of course), tasty tartufi bianchi last year. Forgot to mention-will you be within striking distance of Assisi at any point? In fairness, if I am going to put the "dark" rap on Cortona, I must put the "light" rap on Assisi. I am not Catholic (at least, not yet-I'm waiting to see if Camp's conversion works out), but Assisi is an amazing place. On the way in, you pass more ugly gift-shop schlock than the old Times Square ever hoped to have. But after you get past that, well, there is something truly holy and otherworldly about the place. It is really a "you have to be there" thing.

[Craig Camp]

The Catholic church turned me down Bill, but you are right Assisi is a special place.

[Bill Klapp]

It could have been worse. Had the Church let you in, it would only have been a short time before it would have seized upon one of the many facts of your life that would justify excommunication (or perhaps exorcism).

The Fog Junkie

[tighe]

These places have already been mentioned, but just to second them...

Vini e Pane is a terrific place for a casual and inexpensive dinner. My memory is of 4 courses with a different wine with each course for something rediculous like $20 each.

Locanda dell'Amorosa in Sinalunga remains one of my very favorite places I've ever dined. Maybe if I bring it up enough times, someone else from eG will go there and confirm or contradict my rosy memory of the place. Depending on your budget, it looks like it would be a nice place to stay as well.

Osteria del Teatro has what is, to this day, the best bruschetta I've ever encountered.

I have to disagree with Bill's assesment of Cortona, but I was there in the off-season and found it a very hospitable and interesting place.

[Jim Dixon]

We've only visited San Gimignano during the day since it's a short drive from Chianni there's a jewelry store there my wife really like, and the gelato place in Piazza Cisterna is good). But Bartolo's Inferno in the church is worth seeing, and nearby Volterra also has nice, smaller scale museums...the Etruscan museum is especially good (and we don't really spend much time looking at art or antiquities).

Even more important, the fall is prime time for sagre, the food festival fund raisers that offer a great way to experience part of real Italy. The small town sagre draw the city folk out for cinghiale, funghi, castagne, or some other local foodstuff the town chooses to celebrate. The locals volunteer to cook and the streets fill with vendors of t-shirts, candy, olives, kitchenware, and toys. In October, a Tuscan sagra often includes vino novello, too.

Ask the locals when you drive around and look for small signs. Chianni's Sagra del Cinghiale is sometime in mid-October (I'll get the dates), and it's not far from SG.

Jim

[Pan]

I have always found Cortona to be the darkest and least interesting of the Tuscan hill towns.  Worse, that it was made famous by Under the Tuscan Sun is something of a condemnation of how little we Americani really know about what Italia has to offer.  The two most notable features of Cortona are an interesting hat shop in the main piazza, and all of the Americans asking for directions to Frances Mayes' house (which I believe may have been turned into an overpriced rental at this point)!  San Gimignano is also something of a one-trick pony.  I would allot about 60 minutes for it, and move on.  Firenze is of infinitely more interest, heavy tourist traffic and all

Yes, and so is Siena, but they are both much larger cities than either Cortona or San Gimignano.

As a lover of art and beautiful views, I disagree with your assessments of Cortona, and to a much greater degree, San Gimignano.

Cortona _is_ a very small town, but there is a great painting and some good ones in the very small Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (which I did feel was a little bit of a contrived device to justify charging visitors who otherwise might be seeing the works in their rightful places in the church). The museum of the archeological association is also of some interest. Most importantly, the approach to and view from the city is breathtaking, somewhat as is true of Orvieto (a larger and more spectacular town, to be sure).

As for San Gimignano, it is a small town but has things to see that are amazing. First of all, there are the fresco cycles in the Colleggiata and a bunch of great paintings in the museum in the Palazzo Publico; secondly, there is the great fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzoli of scenes of the life of IIRC Sant'Agostino. Then, there's the beauty of the city itself with all its Medieval buildings and towers, the Piazza della Cisterna, the panoramic view from La Rocca, etc. On my first visit to S. Gimignano, I was there for closer to 5 hours than 1. Later, I had the chance to go back at night, when the day-trippers are gone, it's more peaceful and quiet, and the atmosphere is totally different.

There's a bit of an apples-and-oranges aspect to comparing Florence to San Gimignano.

But when did Frances Mayes' book come out?

[Bill Klapp]

Glad to see the balancing views on Cortona being posted. I saw the art in Cortona and San G, but that is not enough to justify an extended stay in either place, in my humble opinion. Hospitable people and beautiful views abound in Italy, as does interesting stuff to do and see, so it is all relative and in the end, a matter of personal preference. For me, Montalcino totally eclipses Cortona and San Gimignano all rolled into one. A larger, much more interesting town, a super Etruscan museum and, oh, yes, some fine wine shops. Likewise Siena. Same is true of Orvieto, which has the most beautiful cathedral that I have ever seen, as well as better food and wine. The truth be known, I much prefer Umbria to Tuscany.

[theakston]

When is the truffle fair this year?  It is usually the last week in September, as I recall. 

It is October every weekend from the 4th through the end of the month I believe.

After 3 nights in Barolo we have accommodations booked in San G (3 nights) and Cortona (2) before moving on to Firenze. We plan on getting out of San G before the tour buses arrive and returning to dine in the evening. Probably the same in Cortona. So suggestions for day trips and lunches elsewhere are most welcome (we will have a car but prefer to park it for the evening before we get into any serious imbibing).

Thanks a lot for the tips so far. Definitely plan on visiting Siena, Sinalunga is not far nor is Montalcino, and Assissi looks like it would be worth the short hop into Umbria from Cortona (thanks for the tips).

Orvieto sounds good Bill, but I can't find it on my crappy little map (I'll look at a better one later).

Thanks again guys.

Edited September 26, 2003 by theakston (log)

[Pan]

Glad to see the balancing views on Cortona being posted.  I saw the art in Cortona and San G, but that is not enough to justify an extended stay in either place, in my humble opinion.

Extended stay? No, I think you're right; neither town deserves an extended stay. I just think both places are worth visiting and S. Gimignano deserves more than one hour.

I'm frankly unfamiliar with Montalcino and prefer the Duomo in Siena to the similar one in Orvieto, except that the latter has a rare example of well-restored (not horribly overcleaned) great frescos in Italy.

I think the best Etruscan museum I've seen has been in Tarquinia.

I probably prefer Tuscany to Umbria for both art and food, but it's close, and the scenery is wonderful in both regions, though somewhat less cultivated and (therefore) wilder in Umbria.

[Craig Camp]

I probably prefer Tuscany to Umbria for both art and food, but it's close, and the scenery is wonderful in both regions, though somewhat less cultivated and (therefore) wilder in Umbria.

For art yes, but for food? Umbria is a gastronomic miracle. Toscana does not have a chance.

[hollywood]

The best places I've eaten in Tuscany were the aforesaid Locanda dell'Amorosa (and, yes, it is a nice place to stay as well) and La Chiusa in Montefollonico. I'd agree with the comments about Assisi and its cathedral. I wonder to what extent it's been restored since the earthquake. As for San Gimignano, it may be a one trick pony and not worth much time but it's a very beautiful one trick pony.

[tighe]

If you make it to Perugia, and I think its a very worthwhile place to visit, there's a superb restaurant called Il Falchetto, just off the main square. My lunch there of braised lamb in a red wine truffle sauce stands out in my memory.

[hollywood]

If you make it to Perugia,

Chocolate?

[Craig Camp]

The best places I've eaten in Tuscany were the aforesaid Locanda dell'Amorosa (and, yes, it is a nice place to stay as well) and La Chiusa in Montefollonico.  I'd agree with the comments about Assisi and its cathedral.  I wonder to what extent it's been restored since the earthquake.  As for San Gimignano, it may be a one trick pony and not worth much time but it's a very beautiful one trick pony.

The Cathedral in Assisi is almost totally restored.

[tighe]

If you make it to Perugia,

Chocolate?

Yes, the chocolate is stellar, but there is also a very good museum of Umbrian art as well, and the old town is beautiful.

Edited September 27, 2003 by tighe (log)

[Pan]

For art yes, but for food? Umbria is a gastronomic miracle. Toscana does not have a chance.

Consider that I've spent a lot of time in Siena, where I found it very hard to find a bad meal. Also consider that I was not seeking out expensive restaurants and couldn't pay for them. That said, I liked pici with black truffles or mushrooms very much when I was in Spoleto.

[Craig Camp]

Consider that I've spent a lot of time in Siena, where I found it very hard to find a bad meal.

Other than Venezia - you can say the same about all of Italy!

[Pan]

It's not that hard to find a bad meal in Rome, in my experience.