TDG: Wine Camp: Barolo Wars

[Fat Guy]

A not-so-long time ago in this galaxy . . .

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[docsconz]

Another superb article from Craig. How do you do it? What is your assessment Craig of where Angelo Gaja fits in? His name was notable by its omission from your lists. I realize that he is more well known for his barbarescos, but he does also make some well known barolos.

[Craig Camp]

Another superb article from Craig. How do you do it? What is your assessment Craig of where Angelo Gaja fits in? His name was notable by its omission from your lists. I realize that he is more well known for his barbarescos, but he does also make some well known barolos.

Thanks Doc.

Gaja's positive influence on all Piemontese winemaking (or all Italian winemaking for that matter) cannot be denied. Sperss, like all the wines from Angelo Gaja are always of the highest qualtity - and price. It is however not on my personal short list of wines I would personally buy. There are just too many other Baroli that are more interesting and that cost less.

[Andre]

Another superb article from Craig. How do you do it? What is your assessment Craig of where Angelo Gaja fits in? His name was notable by its omission from your lists. I realize that he is more well known for his barbarescos, but he does also make some well known barolos.

Thanks Doc.

Gaja's positive influence on all Piemontese winemaking (or all Italian winemaking for that matter) cannot be denied. Sperss, like all the wines from Angelo Gaja are always of the highest qualtity - and price. It is however not on my personal short list of wines I would personally buy. There are just too many other Baroli that are more interesting and that cost less.

Thank you for another great article Craig,

I full agree about Angelo Gaja. The wines seem to lack the complexity and unique character other fine Barolos have.

Many of the things you wrote about Barolo are true for Chianti. They all divide into two basic groups. Modern Chianti dominated by friut and oak, and traditional Chianti with its dry earthy finish and acidic aftertaste.

Hopes the classification system works for preserving the authenticity of the vineyards as supposed to.

[Bill Klapp]

Strong work, Craig. I disagree only in one particular: I often drink old Barolo for breakfast! You were right to highlight the continuum nature of this "debate". For me, Giacosa has become something of a stealth modernist (selling what used to be his riservas a year earlier now, secretively updating his maceration and other cellar techniques), while Gaja, considered by some to be one of the founding fathers of the modernist school, is a closet traditionalist. Other than his Costa Russi, none of his wines give the early pleasure characteristic of the modernist wines. Indeed, his San Lorenzo and Sori Tildin (excepting maybe the extremely fruit-forward 1997 vintage) are huge wines that evolve at a glacial pace, slower than Giacosa's Barbarescos and slower than most Barolos. I have all the major vintages of both from 1967 on, and in my opinion, only the 1967 and 1971 San Lorenzo and the 1970 and 1971 Tildin are fully mature. The 1978s are still babies, and while the later wines are theoretical beneficiaries of the "modern" techniques, I'm not drinking mine anytime soon. A good test of the degrees of "modernism" would be to pop a 1996 Sperss and a 1996 Sandrone Cannubi at the same time.

[Dante Naimo]

This was indeed a well written and balanced argument. I enjoyed it.

[futronic]

Excellent article Craig. Like you, I prefer the traditional style of not only Barolo, but Barbaresco, Chianti and Brunello. I won't turn down anything made in the modern style, but I still like the old method of winemaking.

Keep up the good work.

[Carema]

E. Behr ,in his fabulous mag the Art of Eating, also did a knock down job of explaining the tensions between the two camps. It came out in 2002. if you go to Art of Eatingyou can order a back issue (#58).

Edited September 9, 2003 by Carema (log)

[Bill Klapp]

Carema, I read the Behr article, but came away unconvinced. I drink both styles, and probably in equal quantities, so I tend to believe that this is a war without casualties and without a loser (at least, yet!). As I recall, Behr concluded that the modern wines give greater pleasure early on, but become somewhat muddled and nondescript over time, while traditional wines, despite greater oxidation at birth, deliver greater complexity and even purer, more intense flavors and aromas later on. I am not sure that the modern-style wines have been around long enough to give this a fair test, and until the best 1989s or 1990s in the modern style are fully mature (not just drinkable, mind you, but fully mature), I do not believe that one can draw meaningful conclusions. In addition, I have had some old Giacosas that are delicious, but also muddled, in that they do not deliver a range of distinct flavors and aromas, but rather, only a very pleasant, albeit delicious, tannin-free Nebbiolo wine. (I am a huge Giacosa fan, so I do not find that to be true of his best wines from the best vintages, which give you all that you could ask for.) I make the point only to say that I do not buy the "muddled modern" theory in Behr's article. I have done my own testing, using the 1985 Sandrone Cannubi as the modernist baseline, against 1985 Giacosas and Conternos. I find that most American friends overwhelmingly favor the Sandrone, which is invariably more approachable, while I favor the traditional wines from that vintage, which are tighter but still wonderful. I will say that the 1985 Sandrone has a lot of life left ahead of it, so I am skeptical of the oft-heard generalization that modern-style wines are not ageworthy. (There are some, however, that might support that argument, such as Manzone's wines, which often fade within a decade.) For me, the real question will not be longevity, but rather, what complexity, nuance and sense of place each style delivers when fully mature.

[Barolo Boy 69]

I must agree with Bill and disagree with Craig about the aging of the

modernists. Firstly, most people, including myself, would think that a

1985 is a reasonably old wine. I know that the most traditional of

Langhephiles would rather talk about or drink 25 year old Barolo but even

for educated collectors 15 to 20 years certainly isn't young. I have

recently tasted Clericos and Altares from the early 80's (82, 83) and think

that given their limited experience at the time they held up pretty well.

Sandrone certainly had more vintages under his belt with his cellar work

for Marchese di Barolo and being a few years older that smost of

the "Barolo Boys". I think that the best of the modernist wines certainly

give a sense of place and are not just fruit bombs. I have no doubt

when I drink Altare's "Brunate" that this is the elegance of which it is so

famous. Yes, I know that new oak is present but it is only a tool and given

just a few years it will recede into the backround and what I am left with

is the the pure pleasure of Elio's wine.

[Craig Camp]

I don't think you disagree with me. As I said in the article the aging issue is now the focus of debate . You do not have to look to far to find someone that will complain that the newer style wines are not aging well. This is just the next chapter in the Barolo wars. Myself I believe the jury is still out on these wines and I have tasted ones that are aging well and others that are not.

As fine as the Altare Brunate is it just does not have the same sense of place as Marcarini Brunate. I would certainly feel more comfortable aging the Marcarini for the 25 years that you mention. At the same time I think the commitment to quality of Elio Altare is incredible as are his wines.

As I tried to explain in the article I admire both styles and respect winemakers from both schools.

[Carema]

Carema, I read the Behr article, but came away unconvinced.  I drink both styles, and probably in equal quantities, so I tend to believe that this is a war without casualties and without a loser (at least, yet!). 

Absolutely Mr. K. I was just providing more material for a fascinating topic. I love Conterno and Parusso both. I love Nebbiolo period and the more of it the better. yeah for orange wine!

[Barolo Boy 69]

Craig, great reply. Yes Carema! the more the Nebbiolo the better.

Back to the wars for a second. A truce does seem at hand among the

producers but Craig is right as the slamming going on among the

drinkers of Barolo. The noise from the "traditionalist" camps has been

certainly increasing with more pointed comments about de Grazia's

producers in particular. (disclosure: I am a friend and client) Silly eh!

Especially since Marco now represents Cavallotto (no oak) and sells

Boasso (no oak). Sandrone only uses a part new oak and most of the

wood is larger than barrique, tonneaux and up. Many, though not Altare,

are mixing up the wood sizes as well. For 1999, Enrico Scavino has

added LARGE botte back in his wood scheme (tho' they are French and

new but they will not be replaced on the 3 year typical rotation) for all

his Barolos. A lot of the traditionalists complain about the use of roto-fermentors by the Barolo Boys but did they even take a look

at Aldo Conterno's cantina. No barrique for the Barolo but a bevy of

rotos.

[Carema]

Cavallotto (no oak)

botte is oak, nest pas, it is just big and neutral...... perhaps you meant no new barrique.

[Echezeaux]

I've known the Cavallotto family for years and was distressed when they signed on with Marc (don't call me Marco anymore) de Grazia.

I immediately phoned to say "Congratulations...it will be nice to be able to more easily buy your wine..." and also "But how many French oak barriques did you have to buy?"

I was thrilled when they told me they were not going to change their winemaking. And I visited recently...no French oaked Barolo!

[Craig Camp]

Cavallotto remains one of the great bargains of Barolo. Really wonderful wines. I bought the 96 Bricco Boschis on close-out at $20. It was extraordinary. Needless to say I bought every bottle I could find.

The introduction of large French oak (as compared to Slovanian oak) botte is a growing phenomena in Piemonte. I think the results look very promising.

As Barolo Boy notes. the war seems to have passed from the producers to the consumers, wine trade and press who are all viciously debating the issue with the same passion as Catholics when the Vatican dropped the Latin Mass. Tradition dies hard, but some traditions should die. The old style is not inherently great and the new style is not inherently evil.

[annunziata]

very interesting article - you have a great understanding of this singular and incredible wine producing area. i had a 79 monfortino a few weeks ago and i have to say it is lingering on immortality, is was simply outrageous - however i have to give it to the modern movement. i'm not a flashy fruit bomb wine lover, i really slant to old world wines, especially italian. i give it to the modern movement because as in most revolutions they begin with the best intentions, but lack the proper execution. think about it, before altare and sandrone became fashionable they were really putting there asses out there and flying on instruments, some vintages mistakes were made, however they kept learning. i think many mistakes were made especially in the early 90's. however when they got it right and when mother nature pitched in, i have had the most fragrant, powerful and blessed wines of my life. as the modern guys learn more the best wines are yet to come. less new oak is best in most, but not all cases.

i also believe wines of place are not just reserved for the traditionalists, if anyone sticking their nose in and tasting a barolo from clerico thinks it is from australia or california, they may want to visit a doctor. not only is this nebbiolo, it screams monforte.

i liked you comment about the traditionalists really stepping up their game, improving and responding to what was happening. properly ripe fruit, cleaner environments, more sound winemaking has had an profoundly positive effect on these styles

to fire a shot in the aging argument: i don't believe all modern producers will age well, no question about it. just like most traditional barolo never comes around. but i had an 82 altare barolo aborina the same night as the monfortino and i almost fell off my chair. i'm finding the best modern guys who are gifted with the best vineyards are making wines that shed the young flare and ease into a complex, layered and gifted wine -unmistakable nebbiolo

kudos to the conterno brothers, giacosa & macarini, i will continue to buy and drink as many as i can get my hand on. but my heart is with the clericos, scavinos, la spinettas of piemonte.

[Craig Camp]

BAROLO, Italy (Reuters) - As the sun sets over the rolling hills of Piemonte, a perfect bunch of Nebbiolo grapes glows purple against the white clay soil, promising what could be one of the best Italian vintages in memory.

[Bill Klapp]

Be still, my heart! However, I just checked the weather forcast, and it looks like there could be a week of gully-washing, beginning the afternoon of September 22. A race against the clock?

[Barolo Boy 69]

Bill, in speaking to Enrica Scavino at about 6PM her time she said that

rain was due tommorrow Wednesday but looked at some weather sites

and they showed light showers for late Monday early Tuesday with more

rain late in the week near the weekend. Scavino picked Nebbiolo Monday

starting with Fiasc and will continue with thier crus until? What news

do you have? I have seen a post from Oliver Mc Crum that some of his

producers had begun to pick Nebbiolo last week. Any insights.

Thank you. Anyone?

[Barolo Boy 69]

Should clarify, I spoke to her on Monday @ 6 PM.

[Craig Camp]

There was a light steady rain on Tuesday, but no thunderstorms. Today (Wed.) is bright and sunny - not a cloud in the sky.

[Craig Camp]

Marcarini started picking nebbiolo this week. I am headed down there early next week for a closer look at several properties.

[Barolo Boy 69]

Craig, Bill. et. al., I have seen Alba forecasts with some light rain,

mixed and sunny days (on accuweather.com) is that what took place? Was

the rain significant? Are people holding off using the rain to refresh

or is it too late? Craig, you said you were going to see Marcarini and other

properties. I have heard about reduced yields. How did the Barbera

and Dolcetto harvest proceed. Any info would be most appreciated.

[Bill Klapp]

Pouring buckets in Alba today! Hopefully, it will salvage the white truffles! Barbera and Dolcetto came in with no rain to speak of, with uniform reports of excellent quality. I am guessing that most of the nebbiolo is in by now, but if not, I think that there will be time to take today's rain and wait to pick. The weather is cool and seasonal now, with not much more rain predicted.