Son of St John

[cabrales]

I had dinner at the St John bar area mid-last week. The meal was delightful, including in view of my recent interest in UK pig breeds. I'd have to admit that it was difficult, though, to parse whether the nice pork dishes were attributable more to Henderson's preparation methods or to the intrinsic qualities of the pork. A non-rare-breed pork loin I had at St John previously had been good as well.

6 Native Oysters (12.00 pounds)

Snails and *Bacon* -- I was informed the bacon was Old Spot(6.80)

Skate and Fennel (6.90)

*Old Spot* Sandwich (4.90)

Roast *Middlewhite* and Potato (17.20, from restaurant area)

    Glass of French White

    Brittany Cider (for the Middlewhite)

When I arrived, all tables in the bar area were occupied; I settled on a stool at one end of the bar itself. The crowds milling around me were not as distracting as I had imagined.

Small oysters were soon next to me -- relatively flat in shape and tasty.

The next dish was dominated by the generous amount of bacon encircling each snail before it was added to a skewer. The taste of the snails was lost, but the upside was saltiness and smokiness from the bacon (perhaps a bit too much, since there were not high levels of fattiness to offset these effects). A bar team member indicated that all Old Spot meats served at St John (including OS pork chops, e.g. served with prunes, available from time to time) are subjected to smoking prior to being served at St John.

The skate with fennel was refreshing. The skate was (surprisingly) presented in shreds, following the natural flesh of the fish. Capers, lemon and olive oil melded well with the crunchiness of the fennel.

Then, the two best dishes of the meal. A tasty OS bacon sandwich, with salty/smoky effects and just enough adjacent fat cast against the coolness of raw watercress and a dark raisin and onion chutney. Soft, plump bread. There was too much Worcestshire sauce in the chutney, but the overall effect of the sandwich was very good. I couldn't say that the OS bacon was particularly distinctive relative to the range of bacon available generally, but its flavors were sharp. I liked this sandwich -- a bargain at under 5 pounds.

The Middlewhite pork loin was good too. Presented in two slices, each thinner than the typical pork chop, the Middlewhite was juice-imbued and tender. The pork tastes were evident because there was not the toughness and density normally associated with certain pork chops. It was as if I were tasting tenderloin of pork. In each loin section, there was an outside portion that was not particularly tender, but the bulk of each piece was. That no sauce was proffered was appropriate -- none was needed. I paired this dish with Brittany cider, based on the classic pork/apple combination that is uninteresting in most current manifestations at restaurants. With the cider being a liquid, cold, hoppy and more complex than the fruit, the cider worked well with the Middlewhite. Overall, the meal was satisfying and very filling!

Other dishes available from St John's menu mid-last week (the restaurant, and not necessarily on the bar area) included (1) Pig's Cheek and Watercress (6.80; see positive reaction Simon M and I each had to a similar dish described in the "St John" thread), (2) Pea and Pig's Ear Soup (6.00), (3) Roast Beef and Aioli (18.00), (4) Baked Celeriac and Eggs (9.00),(5) Venison Liver, Lentils and Wild Garlic (13.80), and (6) Raisin and Marc Ice Cream (5.20).

Separately, I called Bibendum and was advised that the restaurant serves OS chops during lunch occasionally. However, as the lunch menu changes daily, there can be no assurance when the item may appear.

[cabrales]

A bar team member indicated that all Old Spot meats served at St John (including OS pork chops, e.g. served with prunes, available from time to time) are subjected to smoking prior to being served at St John.

My Old Spot exploits at St John continued with dinner in the restaurant area tonight. The reported smoking process for the OS utilized in the pot roast entree rendered it difficult to taste the pork, and I was happier with OS bacon served in the appetizer dish.

Native oysters (six at 12 pounds)

Cockles, Bacon (confirmed by kitchen to be OS) & Leeks (6.50)

Pot Roast Old Spot & Prunes (15.20)

    Sauvignon de Touraine, Loire 2000, Alain Marcadet (4.10/glass)

The hot appetizer of cockles, bacon and leek was nice. OS bacon in relatively small chunks was flavorful, and had likely been slightly (and appropriately) browned prior to incorporation into the dish. Its prominence was balanced by the plumpness of tiny cockles, and the rounded aspects of softened leek in small pieces and the mellow, but helpful, sauce. Chopped parsley added interest to the dish.

The OS pot roast was a bit disappointing -- not poor, but not up to my subjective expectations. ;) The "roast" resembled, both in presentation and taste, two thin-to-medium-thick ham slices. Medium pink in color and quite tender, the meat had presumably been subjected to hanging and smoking, and reminded me slightly of certain maple-smoked hams, but with less sugar notes and greater saltiness. The meat was relatively lean, with the limited fat restricted to a thin strip. The accompanying, thin sauce reminded me of certain sauces, with a slightly sweet aftertaste, used under certain circumstances with ham. The utilization of juicy, relatively sweet prunes in the dish was helpful. Although a dining room staff member referred to the prunes with the OS dish as pickled prunes, there was not the acidity/vinegar-based aspects frequently resulting from pickling.

In sum, my preliminary assessment is that the smoking process apparently utilized by St John on Old Spot may conceivably render the taste of this breed difficult to sample at the restaurant (?). (Middlewhite might be a better breed to sample there.) Nonetheless, a fairly good meal that helped appease my current curiosity with respect to OS.

Appetizers on the restaurant menu tonight included (1) octupus, apparently served cold (7.00), (2) terrine (involving duck fat and pork, among other things; 6.00); and (3) pig's cheek and watercress (6.60). Entrees included (1) rabbit offal, bacon and mash (12.00), (2) steak pie (27.80 for two), (3) roast lamb, chicory and anchovy (16.80), (4) chitterlings and radishes (12.50), (5) wolf fish (?) and fennel (13.50), and (6) devilled kidneys (12.80).  Desserts included brown bread ice cream (6.80; previously described), and a plate of madelaines (4.50).   ;)

[Andy Lynes]

Separately, I called Bibendum and was advised that the restaurant serves OS chops during lunch occasionally. However, as the lunch menu changes daily, there can be no assurance when the item may appear.

I had the OS chop with rosemary and anchovy butter at lunch at Bibendum 2 months ago and it was truely lovely, better than a veal chop with masala I had recently at Sartoria

[Tonyfinch]

I found the OS chop at St.John very salty.So much so it was difficult to finish and I was forced to order another bottle to wash it down. I was expecting some kind of a gourmet pork chop but it was more akin to a smoked bacon chop and,it being St.John,there was no sauce to moderate or modulate the intensity.

[Wilfrid]

Dinner at St John last week.  A bit hit or miss, although the menu is certainly interesting.  The pig's cheek salad was wildly oversalted.  The roast pigeon was unremarkable, and the accompanying beetroot was picked (i.e. vinegary).  But my dining companions made some better choices.  The roast lamb looked excellent.

Does Fergus Henderson actually cook in the kitchen?  I like his ideas, and his cook book has recipes that work well, but there seems to be a lack of precision in the dishes served in the restauarant.

[Andy Lynes]

there seems to be a lack of precision in the dishes served in the restauarant.

I love that! Have you considered a career in the diplomatic corps?

[cabrales]

I had an average lunch, focusing on pork, at St John's bar area today.

2 Native oysters (4.00 pounds)

Crispy Pig Skin (3.80)

Middlewhite and Mustard Sandwich (4.80)

Brittany Cider (1.70)

The crispy pig skin dish had sounded promising, but was a disappointment. Its texture reminded me, for some reason, of spring onion pastry cakes offered at times within Shanghainese cuisine. The pig skin had been deep fried, but was slightly dry. The fat could, in places, be tasted, but it had a dried, solid feel to it.

The Middlewhite sandwich was better, featuring overly fat-infused large slices of pork (yes, there can be such a thing, when 1/2 of the slices appeared composed of a white, dense fat). Watercress was nicely utilized, but there was excessive butter and perhaps slightly more Dijon mustard than appropriate. That being said, the sandwich was fairly good, with soft, thick bread and a nice taste to the less fatty areas of the pork.

[magnolia]

I was just there - I must have just missed you (though I admit I wasn't paying much attention) - I went to buy some bread and an eccles cake (there were none alas) and salivate over the bar menu - my usual post-gym routine. I was the one who looked...well, post-gym (red face, wet hair).

[cabrales]

There were still eccles cake when I left, because I didn't order dessert and had never tried the cake. I thought about ordering it, but decided against it to save room for dinner.  

[magnolia]

Well, so you know for next time: I usually won't consider anything that doesn't have chocolate in it, but for some reason, I'm addicted to St John's eccles cakes. Buttery, flakey, cakes the size of a small doughnut, densely packed with raisins (I think), cloves and other spices, and possibly another fruit...I've never actually asked. They also sometimes have really good chocolate chip cookies, but their brownies are not that great though. In fact the only good brownies I've had in London are from Eat and Little Red Barn (which is wholesale and mail order only).  I like chocolatey, fudgy brownies and most of the ones I find here are dry and flavourless even though they look really promising...torture.

[cabrales]

I tried, for the first time, squirrel.  It was a revelation.  The nearest comparison I can make is to hare, but more gamey. They served the shoulder, saddle, and legs braised in a sauce thickened with blood and they served the guts on toast

Following up on the squirrel posts in the original St John thread, below are excerpts from articles on the item:

-- The Financial Gazette, March 14, 2002: "Fergus

Henderson . . . offers grey  squirrel . . . . He said the dish was popular . . . 'The (squirrels') flesh is rather like wild rabbit but slightly oilier and it cooks very well,' Henderson told the Daily Mail. The chef pointed out he would not cook Britain's native, endangered, red squirrel . . ."

-- Daily Mail, March 13, 2002: "There, squirrels  . . . served with shallots and bacon. . . . A butcher in Wiltshire who knew Mr Henderson's mother had asked if he would  be interested in squirrel meat. 'I was thrilled and intrigued,' Mr Henderson said. 'Straight away I had the notion of creating something like the forest floor and the foliage and the muskiness of the damp woods.' The squirrels are only available for three to four weeks each year . . . ."

[tony h]

Feeling left out we ate at St John last night.  I liked the relaxed atmosphere although the lack of decoration was a bit stark & severe.

Starters - foie gras (£8.80)  &  pressed pork & gizzard (£6.20).

The foie gras was mosaiced & lovely - a sumptuous and stunning starter.  

The pork & gizzard was a pressed terrine - the pork was a bit fatty for my liking but the gizzard most enjoyable (gizzard of what? - I'm not sure we asked but got confusing & contradictory answers).

Mains - bathcap & greens (£10.80)  and duck breast with radishes (£18.00).

The bathcap was essential pork face - cheeks, that sort of thing.  Ignoring the gristle it tasted better that how it was described.  The greens were the star - french beans with fantastic mustard dressing.  The duck was disappointing - largely tasteless as were the accompanying radishes.   We also had potatoes (£3) and spring cabbage (£3) - both wonderfully cooked.

Wine - chateau gaddy (? - can’t read my writing) -  Bordeaux - very drinkable at £21.

Overall impressions - can't really see what all the fuss is about.  The food was ok - only the fioe gras was truly superb - the rest was average which is a shame because you could so much more with the food than simply dumping it on a plate.  We arrived at 7.30 - by 9 the place was packed and had taken on that "who's here" feel that you get in the Ivy.  Obviously the place to see be seen - which isn’t really me.

Oh yes - thanks to those who told me about comptoir gascon (re the foie gras thread) - I finally made it there yesterday.  What a wonderful place.

[Simon Majumdar]

Sorry BLH

have to disagree, both on St J's ( wonderful ) and Comptoir ( hell hole )

Reasons

1) Never had less than a great meal at St J's.  Often closer to sensational.  It is worth its weight in gold to have such a dependable neighbourhood joint

2) Comptoir is the equivalent of a high class hooker.  Lots of goods on show, but you just know only rich arabs would want to spend that kind of money.  I hate this place and all it stands for almost as much as I hate Le Flaneur around the corner on Farringdon Rd.

Sorry, otherwise you are an estimable fellow?

[Tonyfinch]

Simon,what is it about Le Flaneur that you hate so much?

[Simon Majumdar]

A triumph of style over substance.  Poncey, overpriced, staff that lack knowledge.

I have eaten in there once and it was insipid to say the least and £3.00 for a few tomatoes just because they think people will be fooled into thinking that leaving the vines on them makes a difference is appaling hubris.

I also hate the name it is smug and self satisfied ( didn't Ed White call a book this as well?-arse, shame he is such a great writer ) it is like someone calling their biog "pensee"

It makes you want to slap somebody

Give me Brandisa or Selfridges food hall anyday

S

[tony h]

Sorry, otherwise you are an estimable fellow?

Are you asking or telling?  

I did love the atmosphere & agree it would make a wonderful local.  Just wish the food was better.  Then again, I also wish I lived nearby.

On another note about St J there has been a quite unpleasant after effect and one that I can only raise now that Ruby's sadly left us.  Flatulance.  I can't say I am great sufferer of the condition but since last night's meal I just can't stop.  Has anyone else noted this.  Go on - you tell us - we're all friends here.

More importantly - is there a cure?

[Simon Majumdar]

Neither, I am assuming.

It is strange.  I could tell from your posts that wind was a problem.

Try Koaline & Morph- Horrid pink stuff from the chemist.  Grim, but it works

S

[Jinmyo]

Time heals all, blind lemon.

[Gavin Jones]

I think Flaneur is French for maker of flans - essentially it is a gallic pieman. But fancier. This is because France had Baudelaire and the attention of Walter Benjamin while England had Mayhew & Engels.

I went in the shop (Flaneur) 15 minutes before their advertised end of serving time on a cold Sunday with 3 other people and was told that there over-priced products were no longer available. I will not be stepping back there quickly.

[tony h]

Time heals all, blind lemon.

'Tis an ill wind that blows in the mean time  

[cabrales]

blind lemon higgins -- When you have a chance, could you take a look at the linked "Go to Embassy" thread under this forum?

[Tonyfinch]

'Tis an ill wind that blows in the mean time  

That's what eating bathcaps does for you

[tony h]

When you have a chance, could you take a look at

Hmm, it looks like its only for grown ups.

[cabrales]

Pot Roast Old Spot & Prunes (15.20) . . .

The OS pot roast was a bit disappointing -- not poor, but not up to my subjective expectations. ;) The "roast" resembled, both in presentation and taste, two thin-to-medium-thick ham slices. . . .  reminded me slightly of certain maple-smoked hams, but with less sugar notes and greater saltiness. The meat was relatively lean, with the limited fat restricted to a thin strip. The accompanying, thin sauce reminded me of certain sauces, with a slightly sweet aftertaste, used under certain circumstances with ham. The utilization of juicy, relatively sweet prunes in the dish was helpful. . . .

In sum, my preliminary assessment is that the smoking process apparently utilized by St John on Old Spot may conceivably render the taste of this breed difficult to sample at the restaurant (?).

I had dinner at St John again tonight. Due to the limited attractiveness of other main dishes, I ordered the Por Roast Old Spot Belly & Prunes.  This was as previously described, with a bit too much saltiness. The Macon-Fuisse, 2000, La Solutre (Pounds 5.50/glass) was not a good match for the OS.

The OS main course was preceded by (1) 2 oysters, and (2) one gulls' egg (2.70). The egg was noticeably smaller than hen's egg, but noticeably larger than quail's egg. It had a medium grey outer shell that was speckled with brown areas and that had slight olive overtones. The egg was served boiled, with a harsh celery salt. The white occupied a smaller percentage of the volume within the gull's egg than in a hen's egg, and the yolk was an orange-yellow color and a bit richer.  Not a bad opportunity to taste this item, although it would have been better prepared in a way other than boiled.

I also tried Eccles cake for the first time. With Lancashire cheese (?), it is charged out at Pounds 5-7 in the main dining room. It sold for 1.20/cake from the bar, for take-out. The puff pastry forming the outside of the cake was well-made, as was the filling of plentiful raisins mixed in with brown sugar (molasses-like almost) and various spices. While the cake was good, it taste resembled christmas cake and were a bit too intense for me. However, I can see how it could appeal if one liked christmas cake.  

Other dishes on the restaurant's menu included (1) Pigs' tongues, potato and green sauce (Pounds 13.50), (2) Duck neck and green beans (6.30), (3) Foie gras (appetizer 8.80, main, with turnips, 15.00), (4) Duck leg and red cabbage (12.80) and (5) Roast sea bass, lentils and broad beans (31.80 for 2 persons).

[magnolia]

I think Flaneur is French for maker of flans - essentially it is a gallic pieman. But fancier. This is because France had Baudelaire and the attention of Walter Benjamin while England had Mayhew & Engels.

I went in the shop (Flaneur) 15 minutes before their advertised end of serving time on a cold Sunday with 3 other people and was told that there over-priced products were no longer available. I will not be stepping back there quickly.

These days, flâneur means  "poser". Enough said.