Smith's of Smithfield

[cabrales]

An "10z Beef Burger, Cheese and Old Spot Bacon" was available at the "Second Floor" dining area of Smith's of Smithfield this past Tuesday night. (See "Rare UK Pig Breeds" thread, once the pre-crash data is reinstated) Despite the Old Spot bacon, I did not order the dish, and had an average meal. This was my first meal taken at Smith's. Consistent with Wilfrid's indications in a post under "St John", I have no plan to return.

1. Lucky Squid, Chili Jam & Chinese Brocoli -- This appetizer was not bad, with squid slices having been cut with criss-cross markings and stir-fried. There were Chinese connotations to this dish, which was appropriately accompanied by a thin sauce appearing to contain soy sauce (or a similar seasoning), chili, sugar, garlic and very limited amounts of ginger. The dining room staff member described nam jim paste (sic), palm sugar and galagal as having been utilized.

Here's an excerpt on "lucky squid" from the chef's book, called "Relax. It's Only Food" (which I, of course, did not buy):

"In the opening sequence of the wonderful Ang Lee film Eat Drink Man Woman, the old chef Mr. Chu is preparing one of his extraordinary elaborate Sunday lunches. In the middle of all the steaming and hanging of ducks and deep-frying of pork, he scores a sheet of pearly squid on a wooden block, using his cleaver in close lines with devastating speed and accuracy -- chok, chok, chok . . . It's all over in a minute, but it is beautiful to watch. That scene changed forever the way I prepare the squid for this dish [with a different sauce than I sampled]. I used to make the diagonal cuts quite far apart, but old Mr. Chu's technique of fine criss-crossing helps the pieces of squid to curl themselves up quite dramatically, like little fir cones, when they are put into sizzling oil. In Thailand, when the squid curls like that, it is supposed to be lucky".

2. Crisp Belly of Pork, Mashed Potatoes and Green Sauce -- The predominant portion of the pork was tough and dense. There was no meaningful section that had the softness and comfort I associate with pork belly. Fattiness, critical to the effect of pork belly, was missing from much of the pork. A pesto- or "salsa verde"-like paste (with, among other things, pine nuts, parsley, mint, basil and olive oil) had been added to the crackling attached to the pork. The crackling was crunchy and abundant, but slightly more "burnt" than I deem appropriate. The pork was presented on top of a large serving of mediocre mashed potatoes, which in turn were surrounded by a flavored olive oil.

3. Cassis Sorbet with Strawberries and Blackberries (off-menu item) -- The sorbet tasted artificial and harsh. I took in no more than a bite.

I had the above with Viognier (3.95 pounds/glass).

I would characterize this restaurant as British/Asian fusion, with certain traditional British dishes being served.  For example, fusion-type appetizers included "Spiced Duck and Green Papaya Salad, Thai Herbs, Chilli Dressing" and "Chicken, Prawn and Coriander Spring Roll, Cucumber and Peanuts"; entrees of that type included "Five Spiced Duck, Pak Coy and Oyster Sauce" and "Marinated Lamb Rump, Butter Beans, Cumin and Lemon."  John Torode is from Australia, and had stints in the UK at Sydney Street, Pont de la Tour, Quaglino's, Mezzo and Bluebird.

The atmosphere, at least in the "Second Floor" dining area if not on the Top Floor, was noisy, lively and reflective of a predominantly young crowd (twenties?). The dining area was full on a Tuesday night. The service was appropriate for the restaurant's style, and dining room team members were able to meaningfully discuss dishes.

Appetizers are generally 4.75 pounds; non-grilled entrees 10.50 pounds.  Grilled items are 11.50 pounds; side orders of vegetables are extra. Desserts are 4 pounds, and included "Hot Waffles, Banana, Toffee and Double Cream". There are Daily Market Specials offered at 9.50 pounds, including pie (Monday -- Cottage Pie; Thursday -- Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Pie)!! The Friday special is another British dish -- Fish & Chips with Tartar Sauce. It's possible Daily Market Specials differ from week to week (?; Please call before relying on the described dishes)

John Whiting -- Smith's offered organic chicken. The menu notes that it "endeavor to use organic or additive-free produce whenever possible", and named South Tofrey Farm as the restaurant's supplier of organic chicken. I was tempted to sample the "Breast of Chicken, Tarragon, Mustard and Champ Potatoes" entree, but chose pork (even though the latter was not of a rare breed) in view of my recent interest in breeds.

[Guest ithinknot]

Thanks for posting this warning. It is a most pretentious place.

I eaten there twice, the second time the joke had  worn a little thin.

[Tonyfinch]

I've also eaten there twice and while the food is as Cabrales describes I don't think its too bad at the price.However it is so noisy and crowded that I just don't find it relaxing and these days I would rather pay a bit more for a more relaxed and restrained atmosphere rather than shout to make myself heard by someone sitting three feet away from me.

[cabrales]

I don't think its too bad at the price.However it is so noisy and crowded that I just don't find it relaxing and these days I would rather pay a bit more for a more relaxed and restrained atmosphere rather than shout to make myself heard by someone sitting three feet away from me.

Tony -- I agree the prices are good, and the meal can be served rapidly upon a diner's request. The prices are appropriate not only in absolute terms, but also in terms of the food quantity received for both appetizers and entrees. For example, my appetizer of squid might have passed for an entree at a few establishments if size of the dish were the only criterion. As for the pork belly entree, the mashed potato component was large and the belly itself was rather filling. ;)   Several entrees had vegetable components/sides that rendered separate payment for side dishes unnecessary.

It's also appropriate, as you note, to focus on the noise level. There was a number of large (6-plus) groups, many of which spoke loudly.  ;)

Have members been to the "Top Floor", and are the prices much more elevated?

[J Acord]

Well,

I've only eaten there once, and it was only on the ground floor for a sandwich (steak and parmesan with rocket) but I thought it was pretty good. Was there on a saturday afternoon, it wasn't too busy or noisy and you got a lot for your money. Just right after spending a hard morning doing nothing.

And besides, the bathrooms were worth seeing, if nothing else!

[Simon Majumdar]

I have eaten only in the very upstairs bit ( away from Hoi Polloi like Tony :) but, while the first meal ( a Sunday lunchtime ) was very good, the next two, evening meals, were horrendously overpriced and no more than OK

It is fine making a big schtick about sourcing the beef, but £27 for Steak and chips takes a lot of cheek to beat

I wouldn't rush back there

S

[cabrales]

I've only eaten there once, and it was only on the ground floor

J Acord -- I asked about eating at the ground floor level Tuesday night, around 9 pm, and was told that food was not being served there at that time. Members interested in eating at the ground floor level may wish to call the restaurant to confirm availability. ;)

[Winot]

I eat on the second floor on Thursday and had the duck & papaya salad starter and the burger referred to in Cabrales' post.

The salad was one of the worst I've ever had.  Hardly any duck, and miserable thin dried out shreds at that.  Far far too much lime juice in the dressing which completely overwhelmed the rest of the dish.  The pre-prandial marguerita was over-limed and under-tequila'ed also.

The burger however was fine and the bacon flavoursome (although there wwasn't enough of it).

The place was absolutely packed with young tits from the City but the music was loud enough to drown out the braying.  I felt too old to be there and I'm 30.  I won't be going to the 2nd floor again.

[Andy Lynes]

I really enjoyed the food at SOS, I had the squid, some venison with spiced squash (for £9.50!) and a dessert I can't recall. Service was dismall and the place is loud no doubt at all. But I'd chance a second visit, maybe a lunchtime.

[Wilfrid]

I have eaten on the top floor, and it is a little more elegant.  Trouble is, as the night wears on, the noise from downstairs becomes noticeable and annoying.  Also, stray drinkers, unable to find room downstairs, start drifting in and making a commotion in the bar.

Horrible, ugly, nasty, noisy place.  Actually, I had the belly pork for lunch once, and was luckier with it than Cabrales.  My appalling experience was ordering one of the lovingly described steaks (they make a big fuss about the source of the meat and its quality) and being served a revolting piece of gristle I'd have thrown at the wall if I hadn't been someone's guest.

[Matthew Grant]

I've eaten here twice, one on the 'Top floor' and once at the 2nd floor restaurant. I found the second floor cooking perfectly adeqaute food for the money, the top floor was a revelation (this was about 18 months ago).

The American waiter was knowledgable about the food and was more than happy to talk to us about it. We both had Sirloin steak from different producers and hung for different lengths. The difference between the two was incredible and I still haven't tasted such high quality meat since. The fat was not too trimmed and added greatly to the cut.

Although the prices are high, the view is great and I think I'm right in saying that the meat is hung on the premises, which obviously should ensure better quality.

[cabrales]

lovingly described steaks (they make a big fuss about the source of the meat and its quality)

Wilfrid, Simon & Matthew -- What is the sourcing of the steak described to be, and what cuts were generally on the menu when you visited? For example, were there rare UK cow breeds?  ;)

[Matthew Grant]

The sourcing of the beef varies, I can't remember specific breeds although these are normally rare breeds which are specified on the night along with the farm the meat came from. The waiter I spoke to claimed that the line of each animal could be traced back over 100 years.

[Wilfrid]

Yes, the breeds were specified, and my waiter seemed very well informed about them.  Sorry, Cabrales, my memory won't help with names of breeds.  My only problem was that the meat on my plate was not fit for a dog.  It really was that bad.*  Maybe I was incredibly unlucky.

*No, I exaggerate.  I think a dog would probably have eaten it.

[cabrales]

On UK farms with special breeds, the March 2, 2002 edition of The Times (London) has an article by Clarissa Hyman entitled "Respect produces the perfect pork chop". It describes the Bells' chemical-free "Shedbush Farm" in Dorset. Clients include Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux Jr. for pork. Tamworth pigs, as well as Aberdeen Angus, Portland lamb, Aylesbury ducks and Blackrock hens (?) may be available.

"Some tenets are distinctly esoteric. Apparently, the zodiac plays a part in the sowing of crops. . . . Denise [bell] says they are inundated by hundreds of callers wanting a single pork chop [not an appropriate request]. . . . . It's important that people compose lists of foods they want and we will notify them when it is available seasonally."    

Shedbush Farm, Muddy Ford Lane, Stanton St Gabriel, Bridport, Dorset (01297 489304; e-mail: HeritagePrime@aol.com)

Wilfrid -- I like your use of asterisks/stars as footnotes in your posts  ;)

[John Whiting]

Sounds interesting; I'll ask Clarissa to email me a copy.

Apparently, the zodiac plays a part in the sowing of crops. . . .

This is probably related to biodynamic horticulture*, a very complex regimen evolved from the teachings of Rudolph Steiner. It's beyond my credibility, but the food tastes good.

*Dorothy Parker: "You can lead a horticulture but you can't make her think."

[cabrales]

Apparently, the zodiac plays a part in the sowing of crops. . . .

This is probably related to biodynamic horticulture*, a very complex regimen evolved from the teachings of Rudolph Steiner.

John Whiting -- Yes, the article did mention biodynamic principles having been used. I didn't know what the term referred to.

"'What makes the farm special is the way the animals are treated. . . . The piglets are fed 'organic human grade food' (the secret recipe will be in an upcoming book [i thought you'd appreciate this plug!]) right up to their first birthdays . . . . The couple aim to attain the ultimate green standard -Demeter, founded by Rudolf Steiner in 1924 -practitioners of which are required to develop 'extensive, proactive methods of caring for the earth and the soil.'"

On the outcome, Michel Roux Jr. is noted as indicating: "This is what chefs dream of -the perfect ingredients. With so much

respect for their animals and land, is it any wonder that the finest produce to be found comes from Shedbush Farm?"

The article notes R Blanc suggests that Shedbush's pork is a thousand times better than any he had previously sampled.

[Matthew Grant]

I was at the Top floor at Smiths oin Saturday.

Its a lot noisier than I remembered it but it had a nice buzz and the views are good if you're at the right end of the dining room.

Starters were distinctly average, Langoustine ravioli tasted tired, scallops with sticky pork and a trio of sauces (this is all from memory so don't take it as gospel) was 2 scallops, tasty but slightly overcooked, with some shredded pork which was cold and definitely not sticky. I couldn't identify the one sauce I could find but think it may have been plum. Our dining guest poured so much black pepper over his smoked salmon that I couldn't give it an honest appraisal.

Mains were better. Between us we chose Longhorn Sirloin (£26), Belted Galloway Rump(£24), Fillet (£28.50 and unidentified despite my request to our waiter) all aged for 26 days and provided form Gary Wallace farms. The Cote du Bouef was unavailable and there was also a Hereford rump.

The fillet was suitably tender and had good flavour for fillet but didn't really set my heart on fire (glad I didn't order it), although my better half thought it was good (she hadn't ordered it either), my non-foody dining partner (I'll spare their blushes although they are a blood relative and they used to be married to my Mother) thought it was "Ultra" .

The rump was good, strong beef flavour (in a good way), nice yellow fat that was perfectly edible, it was slightly overcooked for my liking though (I had asked for medium rare but I would say it was far more on the medium side).

The Sirloin was fantastic with strong gamey flavours, this was the meat of the night, in hindsight I wish I had chosen it. It was my first choice but wanting to try different cuts and letting ladies go first put paid to that. If she's reading this (don't pretend that you're too busy), I hope she appreciates it!

We ordered 3 potato sides, mash (poor) Chips (almost undercooked) and Dauphinoise (good)

I had the ice-cream and Sorbet for dessert which was good but overshadowed by the glass of Tokaji that came with it.

Overall an average experience but meat that you could have fed to the dog. Earlier in this thread I stuck up a little for the prices, my second opinion leaves me thinking that I would have been far happier paying £18 - £20 a steak, especially if the potato dishes are going to be so average.

[magnolia]

OK you guys are oldier and fogier than I ever imagined. I don´t know what it takes to please you, but you must lighten up or you will have no fun, ever. I have said many times that London is short on good food and good value. London is no Paris or New York when it comes to restaurants, with the vast variety of excellent and relatively inexpensive places,

But SOS second floor falls into this rare category, if any place does. I ate there last week and was more than satisfied with the food, the prices and the service. Tables are far enough apart that noise should not be an issue. I can´t recall if they had music on at all. We had three 10 oz perfectly cooked steaks (i.e. all three were cooked exactly the way the diners requested) plus just the right amount of thick cut, not greasy chips and one veal main, two starters (shared) which were a generous portion of chicken liver pate ("parfait" or whatever) and grilled polenta something or other and a very decent bottle of Shiraz if I recall correctly (I thought I posted this already) and we got out of there for under 20 GPB a head (I think there were two bottles of water as well). The service was friendly but not slimy, and one of the party asked loads of questions which were expertly answered (no "I´ll have to get back to you). Except for the gimmicky way they list the prices (i.e .three pounds, 4 and a half pounds) It is about as far from pretentious as you an get without going to McD´s.

I have eaten on the top floor, and found it way overpriced but I wasn´t paying so it only hurt in a righteously indignant sort of way. But it was delicious, filling and good wine list. IT reminded me of an upmarket steak house in New York with waiters that are about 50 years younger.  The downstairs (where I have not eaten but it looks like they must have great breakfast= is something of a meat market at night but they serve drinks made with fresh squeezed juices so it is worth it to go just for that.

[Matthew Grant]

Old and fogey are not words I take kindly to! I reckon I'm younger than most people on here! I listen to Lemon Jelly and Goldfrapp during dinner parties and I have been pleased at SOS.

I agree that the middle floor is good value, I enjoy drinking on the ground floor and the cocktails are great on the 1st floor. However, when it came to the top floor, at these prices your chips should be cooked properly and the waiter should know the answers to the questions without resorting to the kitchen! :confused:

[Simon Majumdar]

Actually I know that Maggie is knocking on herself, so what is it they say about "people in glass houses"

Matthew, I have to disagree the cocktails at SOS amongst the very worst I have had anywhere in the world.  I really can't see the point in having all those bottles behind the bar when most of the staff can't even open a bottle of beer. Depressingly common in NY and London

The middle floor of SOS is a hell hole and people put up with it because it is cheaper.

The top floor while being hideously expensive at least lets you get away from the floppy fringed nitwits who populate the middle and ground floors.  When I go up there I feel like the Omega Man.  if only I had his guns

S

[Matthew Grant]

I didn't have cocktails on Saturday, but when we last went a little while ago, the cocktail waiter was very good and happily made (good) drinks not on the menu. Guess it depends whose working at the time?  :confused:

You'll be happy to know, I shaved my head a few years ago so that Imy hair didn't keep falling into my food and to prevent myself being called a floppy fringed nitwit.

[cabrales]

You'll be happy to know, I shaved my head a few years ago so that Imy hair didn't keep falling into my food and to prevent myself being called a floppy fringed nitwit.

Matthew -- If you're comfortable responding, have you maintained the shaved look since, and why couldn't you have merely cut your hair shorter to avoid having it fall into your food?  

[Matthew Grant]

I was moulting!

[cabrales]

This was my first meal taken at Smith's. Consistent with Wilfrid's indications in a post under "St John", I have no plan to return. . . .

Prompted by this thread, I had dinner at the Second Floor of SOS tonight. For me, the second meal yielded a conclusion identical to the first -- the Second Floor is not worth another visit, even though portions are generous and that dining area is not a bad value-for-money proposition.    Of course, I have not dined in any other area of SOS and cannot provide input thereon.

Below is what I ordered:

Sourdough with grilled field mushrooms, eggs, parsley and shallot salad (Pounds 4.75)

10 oz Rib steak, chips and mustard mayonnaise (11.50)

Apple pudding, custard (4.00)

     Glass of Moet & Chandon (6.75)

     Glass of Scrumpy Jack Cider, UK (2.75)

     Glass of Red Burgundy (5.25)

The fried egg appetizer was average, with 1/2 of the yolk runny and the remainder of it solid. It was too bad the edges of the white portion were not a bit more crispy and interesting.  The saucing was so-so, a bit of Dijon mustard with a sweet variation of pesto-like sauce and a faint hint of the mixture of acidity and limited sweetness (not in a good way) one finds in certain pickles. There were diced onions in the sauce as well.

The Sourdough accompanying the fried egg lacked butter connotations and "soaking effects" from the sauce elements. The mushrooms included in the dish had a large capped portion and were not of a type that I prefer.  They resembled almost porcini (of which I am not particularly appreciative) in taste, to a limited extent. I found the utilization of parsley in this dish helpful.  Surprisingly, the fried egg was acceptable taken with the UK cider described above.

Unhappily, the rib steak that I had ordered between rare and medium rare was overcooked (at more than medium rare). More significantly, the cut of the beef itself was not of a particularly high quality.  The meat lacked a certain succulence, as well as fattiness, and had too many tendons in it. (On the Top Floor, it appears there are better cuts of beef.) I was advised that the beef was an unspecified cross-breed between Aberdeen and Angus, from an organic facility. The mustard sauce was appropriate. The fries that accompanied the steak were decent, being stubby and recently fried. There was also a bit of watercress, which I liked for its peppery connotations and its freshness.  

The apple pudding dessert was good. It was a wedge of almost cake-like material, with appropriately limited, small apple slices near the top of the cake. The cake had a strong cinammon taste (a bit more complex, like "pain epice"), and had a nice texture that was complemented by the custard-based sauce.  Also, the dessert went well with my espresso.

Another disappointing meal overall, though.

The Second Floor was slightly less noisy than before, but the noise level remained too much for me. It was 75% full by 8 pm, almost full by 9 pm. The service remained rapid as I had requested. I noted the decor a bit more. The elevator leading upwards was decorated with beige padding, cast in reddish lights in some places -- not appealing with respect to execution. Some of the walls on the Second Floor were a dark reddish color, and the two key "art" pieces were off-white, one with curved lines shown.

Selected other appetizers included:

-- Richard Woodland's Ham, Pears and Watercress

-- Pork and Prawn Dumplings in Coriander Broth

-- Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Parfait, Toast and Onion Marmelade

-- Peas and Mint Soup (tempted to sample this in view of La Trompette ordering by dining group)

Selected main dishes included:

-- Bream Fillet, Roast Fennel, Shallots, Herb Dressing

-- Roast Cod, Caponata, Basil Aioli

-- Grill: Calves Liver, Bacon Mash, Potato & Onion Gravy

           Whole Lemon Sole, Herb Butter

           Smiths 10 oz Burger with Old Spot Bacon

The daily lunch specials (uncertain available during dinner?) were as described in my first post.

I'd like to end with an excerpt from the chef's book, relating to eggs: "I think eggs are wonderful things, one of the most versatile ingredients in the world, though I can never quite forget the scene in the movie 'Angel Heart' in which the Lucifer character, played by Robert De Niro, declares that the egg is the symbol of the soul and devours it. American diners are the place for terric eggs . . . ."