Schielke's European Vacation

[Jim Dixon]

Ben,

I've posted this here before, but so you don't have to look here it is again

http://www.realgoodfood.com/venice_food.html

Check out especially the bacari (wine bars) listed...most likely one will be open. Alle Testiere has gotten hot (RW Apple mentioned it again today in the NYT...but the place he mentions out by the Lido sounds fantastic, so you may want to pick up a copy of the Wed paper or check the web site..the story is about Venetian seafood), but is worth a try.

We always have the best luck wandering in the outer neighborhoods....you can get a glass of wine and some cicheti (Venetian version of tapas) for a few bucks at a bacaro, and if it's good, stay for few more.

Have a fantastic trip....

Jim

[Schielke]

I checked out some maps and our apt in Florence is less than two blocks away from Il Ritrovo. I have a feeling I will be there more than once if it lives up to its reports.

[DaleJ]

BEN: I was in Folorence a year ago for four days. I ate at Il Ritrove four times. Rosetta is the most beautiful and kindest woman in the city.

[Schielke]

I have a pretty good idea of where I want to eat during my time in Italy, although I am still unsure about Tano passami l'olio in Milan.

During our time in Florence, we were thinking of taking a couple day trips. One perhaps to Bologna for lunch and another to Siena to check out the wine growing region. What is the easiest way to do this? From searching, it seems that an appointment is a must at the wineries. Is a winery tour the way to go? We won't have a car at this point, are there any that are either reachable by train, or inside of Siena? What seems to be the best way to approach this?

Is there anything else really neat that I could check out in the area? It seems as if most of my trip right now is looking at buildings and art and eating in restaurants. I hope I am not missing anything.

As always, thanks so much for the help.

Ben

[tighe]

Ben,

In Siena, the best wine destination is the Enoteca Italiana. Several hundred wines available by the glass at about $3 a pop.

It's difficult or impossible to get to the smaller towns by train, but there are buses from Florence. We found tasting rooms featuring one or more local wineries in both Radda and Castellina. Unless the budget is really tight, I would urge you to rent a car for the day so you can cover more territory. Driving around, you're likely to see signs outside smaller wineries that are open for tasting.

[Craig Camp]

Other than Boccondivino what kind of restaurant are you looking for in Milano and what are you planning to see?

[hollywood]

Tighe,

Nice Nirvana quote. And apt too.

[tighe]

Tighe,

Nice Nirvana quote. And apt too.

Thanks.

Mamster said he would have never guessed I listened to Nirvana, then again, he's met me in person.....

...and now back to our regularly scheduled thread on Ben's honeymoon trip....

[Schielke]

Other than Boccondivino what kind of restaurant are you looking for in Milano and what are you planning to see?

As far as restaurant type, A couple good affordable picks are always good and I would be open to a higher end experience. I am usually interested in dropping the bucks if the meal promises to be unique and well done. In this case, something uniquely Italian.

Perhaps Boccondivino takes care of this requirement.

Here is what I know about so far:

I am planning on going nuts at Peck, so that might fill a meal or three. I know my plane ride home will be very good at least.

I found your recs for local milanese food:

If you want to eat some real Milanese food:

Trattoria all'Antica - 02 8372849 have the nervetti con fagioli for a first course if you have the nerve. They also are one of the few places where you can find casoeula most of the time - eat it.

L'Osteria del Treno - 02 67004749 - this is really a great spot. Don't miss the guanciale al barbera if you are lucky enough to have it available when you are there. Great cheese selection.

Bottiglieria da Pino - 02 76000532 - just simple delicious food. The best trippe in town.

Also don't miss the great wine bar at Ostarie Vecjo Friul - 02 33601498 - great Friuli inspired salumi e formaggi.

Any updates on these places or additions?

Peterpumpkino also said

No mention of my favourite restaurant in Milano, Il Carpaccio (+39 (02) 29405982), located quite near the Statione Centrale and the Principe Savoia hotel (great hotel incidentally, but very expensive). Just tell the owner whether you want fish or meat and the food will just keep coming (i.e. various antipasti, three pastas etc) it's a great way to sample the food and they don't rip you off!

Thanks,

Ben

[Schielke]

Also, I just booked my room at Hotel De La Ville in Milan.

[Schielke]

Craig, what have you heard about Tano passami l'olio? It sounds interesting. Is it any good?

Ben

[MarkinHouston]

"During our time in Florence, we were thinking of taking a couple day trips. One perhaps to Bologna for lunch and another to Siena to check out the wine growing region. What is the easiest way to do this? "

Ben, my research would indicate that the train is the best option from Florence to Bologna. There are trains from 0600 to midnight, departing frequently with travel time of about one hour. I have also read that the bus to Siena will drop you off inside the city rather than outside the walls. The bus takes about an hour. We are also taking day trips to Lucca and Arezzo, and the train is the best public transportation to those locations as well. Good luck.

[Pan]

The long distance bus station in Siena is right near the church of San Domenico, and yes, it is inside the walls. The walk from there to the Piazza del Campo would be about 15-20 minutes if you did it straight. But since you're basically right next to San Domenico, you might as well look at the view from just outside the church and then look inside the church, if it's open.

[Schielke]

Any suggestions on a good winery that is close to Florence? If it is close enough, we could have a car take us out there or drive ourselves when we pick up the rental car.

I am not sure if going to Sienna by bus or train is really going to gain us much ground winery-wise since we would effectively be in the city and not the countryside.

Thanks!

Ben

p.s. man, this is getting close. I am getting pretty excited!

[hollywood]

Any suggestions on a good winery that is close to Florence? If it is close enough, we could have a car take us out there or drive ourselves when we pick up the rental car.

I am not sure if going to Sienna by bus or train is really going to gain us much ground winery-wise since we would effectively be in the city and not the countryside.

Thanks!

Ben

p.s. man, this is getting close. I am getting pretty excited!

As you drive around Tuscany, you will see the familiar rooster logo for Chianti. Now, whether or not this will lead to a winery visit is something to be explored. probably best to have some of the on the ground eg'ers guide you.

[Carlsbad]

I'm new to eG and it's probably too late for suggestions, but I'll put my two cents worth in anyway. First. congratulations. I think you have a great itinerary for your honeymoon. You were wise not to spread it over too much area.

I hope you are able to work San Gimignano in for one of those nights in between. It is a magical place at night and in the early morning before the day trippers get there. The Hotel La Cisterna is a great place to stay, especially if you get the room with a terrace overlooking the countryside. The view actually took my breath away. http://www.hotelcisterna.it/index.html

If you can work the Cinque Terre in somehow, you will be very happy. Maybe on that last night before you get to Milano. It's not very good driving to get there, although it's easier to Riomaggiore on the south and Monterosso on the north. My favorite hotel in Monterosso is the Villa Steno. http://www.villasteno.com/en/

Peck is awesome.

[Schielke]

Not too late at all! Welcome to eGullet and thanks for the suggestions!

Ben

[divina]

Sorry I won't be here when you are.. I am in the states for the IACP conference!

BUT.. wanted to mention that April 25th is a national holiday.. and a sunday!!!

so a good day not to move around !

Enjoy Venice:

Da gigio..Ai TEstiere...Rialto Market.. drink Prosecco

Florence

Cavolo nero is really nice ( see my link to my guide for Florence and chainti)

Beccofino ( chef trained at coccopazzo , only for dinner)

fun funky lunch MArio's neat San Lorenzo market

Cibreo Trattoria or teatro del sale ( membership for teatro 5 euro)

San Gimmy ( takes forever to get there by train and bus.. can add on to your rental car trips.. )

Dorando!!!!

I would suggest driving the 222 Florence- Siena... and wine tour at la Volpaia and lunch there in the village.. very romantic!!!!

La volpaia is outside Radda in Chianti

Do you go to Panzanella in Siena!

I love CIRO!!!

Auguri

Judy

Edited March 23, 2004 by divina (log)

[Schielke]

Thanks Judy!

I am supposedly picking up my rental car on Sunday and heading out to the countryside. Is it going to be hard to eat and find a hotel that afternoon?

Thanks!

Ben

[divina]

let me know where you are headed and I will help!

[Jim Dixon]

Ben,

If you're driving back to Milano for the ride home, check out Levanto as a possibilty if you also want a quick hit of Cinque Terra. It's the northern-most town on the CT rail-trail pass (not one of the five) and a nice little spot. You could ride the train down into CT, walk part of the trail, spend the night, somewhere, and be within a few hours' drive of Milano.

We also found a pizzeria there that served farinato, the chick pea flat bread of Liguria.

Rapallo, farther up the coast, is also very nice.

Jim

[divina]

if you are picking up the car on Sunday morning( on a holiday??)

in Florence, there is no problem getting out ot the countyside for lunch, let me know your destination and I can advise on a place!

[Schielke]

The rental car place did not seem to have any objection when I reserved online. I certainly hope they are open. Perhaps I will drop by the office a few days before just in case.

If I do indeed get the car that day, I would be heading west toward Lucca or possibly even my final destination of Villa Minozzo. I am certainly open to suggestion if there are better options.

Ben

[divina]

in the hills outside of Lucca is one of the Buon Ricordo plate places I don't know how fancy you are.. but I like the Restaurant LA MORA.

my article on buon ricordo plates

[Schielke]

I enjoy all levels of fancy or non fancy. The plates sound like fun! I might seek this place out!

Would they be open on Sunday?