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Wild woman wines


Florida Jim

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Our friend Karin came to town and to dinner. She is one of those over 40, take no prisoners types that doesn’t even know what “standing on formality” means. And yet . . . she has these brief moments when from beneath all that strength comes a moment of insight and consideration so sweet and feminine as to disarm even the most macho of our guests. An extraordinary woman that I am lucky to call friend – and a damn good drinkin’ buddy – ‘you know what I mean?

Aperitif:

2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne:

This has a lovely red cherry nose with hints of cinnamon and earth; a beautiful palate of fresh red cherries, medium power tannins and nice intensity. Maybe a little short (or at least drying) on the finish but a good wine with time ahead of it.

Scores high of the VLM translucence scale and delivers all the finesse one is allowed to enjoy. Given a year or two, it will be even better.

About $18, delivered.

With a salad of arugala, roasted beets, walnuts and ricotta salata:

2001 Donnhoff, Estate Riesling:

Not near as sweet as on release but enough RS to stand with the naturally sweet beets; a few bubbles at this point but for a wine in transition, still lovely. This needs a year or two also and was a grand bargain at $13.

With grilled NY strips:

1996 Lynch-Bages:

This started out very CA in style on the nose with a substantial wood component and lots of extracted but simple fruit; about an hour later this started to head in direction no CA cabernet can go – a sort of power-fruit element with very solid earth tones and a bit of green (or maybe spearmint) around the edges – a much more interesting wine with enough depth to be alluring and enough simple power to be a strong player with the steak. I have my reservations, but this has more latent stuff than I can fathom. I will wait a good while before trying another.

About $70, full retail.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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Jim,

Many '96 Bordeaux are drinking very well right now. Thanks for the notes on LB. My 2 current favorite '96s are Poujeaux and Ormes de Pez. These are very engaging and charming wines. I believe there is a fair amount of Poujeaux left around. Poujeaux and Roc de Cambes are always sleepers.

Mark

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