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WTN: 2000 Pinot Noir Ice Wine,


Nevan

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2000 Ice Wine, Pinot noir, St. Hubertus Estate Winery, Okanagam Valley (British Columbia, Canada)

Polished old gold color, hinting at a dainty pinkness, but looking closely, there is no redness at all, just a deep honey gold color. Deep and high-toned aromas of spiced honey. Surprisingly thin texture (for an ice wine) carries nicely sweet (but not as intensely sweet as some ice wines) and flowery flavors of apricots, honey and . . . grapes. Lacking acidity, the sweet flavors are a dessert-unto-themselves, and a refreshing denouement to a short round of traditional pinot noirs.

(Note: this is a true ice wine, unlike most American “icewines”, meaning the grapes were hand picked and pressed naturally fully frozen—at –13 degrees centigrade at 48.4 degrees brix

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2000 Ice Wine, Pinot noir, St. Hubertus Estate Winery, Okanagam Valley (British Columbia, Canada)

Polished old gold color, hinting at a dainty pinkness, but looking closely, there is no redness at all, just a deep honey gold color. Deep and high-toned aromas of spiced honey. Surprisingly thin texture (for an ice wine) carries nicely sweet (but not as intensely sweet as some ice wines) and flowery flavors of apricots, honey and . . . grapes. Lacking acidity, the sweet flavors are a dessert-unto-themselves, and a refreshing denouement to a short round of traditional pinot noirs.

(Note: this is a true ice wine, unlike most American “icewines”, meaning the grapes were hand picked and pressed naturally fully frozen—at –13 degrees centigrade at 48.4 degrees brix

2000 Ice Wine, Pinot noir, St. Hubertus Estate Winery, Okanagam Valley (British Columbia, Canada)

I have had this before and I do like the thinness to them, but the lack of acidity to balance the sweetness and flavour left me feeling cheated for the money you pay on these ice wines. I have had many different ice wines from BC and while some are spectacular while others just don't hit the mark. Some come in these amazing bottles that are works of art on thier own and they are getting experiemental with the grapes they are making them from, some being made from Cab franc and even merlot. But again I don't think they are worth the money. If you get a chance and can get some cedar creek wines, they are doing an Erenfelser that has all the complexity of a dessert wine, about half the sweetness and a quarter of the cost, it is an amazing wine. Till next time.

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A great dessert wine needs a lot of acid to balance the sweetness. If it doesn't have it, the wine becomes cloying. Thanks for the review.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Yes, this has been my biggest issue with nearly ALL the Pacific Northwest late harvest-style wines: lack of acidity. They have pretty flavors of sweet fruits and flowers . . . but so does canned fruit cocktail juice. I am on a constant hunt for a sweet wine maker in this region who knows the importance of acidity in balancing and brightening a late harvest wine--and mostly I've been disappointed. The closest I've found is Andrew Rich's late Harvest Gewurtztraminer, but even that could do with more acidity.

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Yes, this has been my biggest issue with nearly ALL the Pacific Northwest late harvest-style wines: lack of acidity. They have pretty flavors of sweet fruits and flowers . . . but so does canned fruit cocktail juice. I am on a constant hunt for a sweet wine maker in this region who knows the importance of acidity in balancing and brightening a late harvest wine--and mostly I've been disappointed. The closest I've found is Andrew Rich's late Harvest Gewurtztraminer, but even that could do with more acidity.

For an interesting comparison try the J B Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spatburgunder TBA. It will amaze you as to what a Pinot Clone can do as a sweet wine. If you can find an old one you will be in heaven. The Germans understand that you must have the acidity to balance the sweetness. Most recently I have had the 1976 J B Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spatburgunder TBA and it was an old brick, strawberry blond color with the most amazing nose of Botrytis, caramel, red fruit( raspberries maybe). The first swallow was an explosion of sweet ripe fruit with a strong backbone of acidity. Paired with a lemon curd tart it was one of the best pairings I have had.

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dlc - - any suggestions on where I/we all might find this wonderful sounding wine? I live in the boonies, so it would have to be via Internet/mail. I know how rare/expensive TBAs are, but for a good one, I'm willing to pry open the pocketbook!

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I also live in the boonies but have a wineshop owner who loves Reisling. This bottle was imported by Chateau & Estates in NY. You might try your local guy and see if he can find it. I think that the winery also works with importer Terry Theise. Sorry I cannot be of more help. I have had this wine in the cellar for about 10-15 years and am down to my last 3 bottles so if you find any please let us all know.

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