Oregon Pinot Noir

[Elissa]

Have you seen this piece in the Wine Spectator? Doesn't mention Domaine Serene, which I've liked.

[Craig Camp]

I too have found the wines of Domaine Serene to be excellent. Grace and Ken Evenstad are very serious about their wines. I think they have succeeded with pinot noir but the chardonnay wines are just OK.

Here is their site Domaine Serene

[Nevan]

I'd say keep checking in on Domaine Serene's chardonnays. Winemaker Tony Rynders is part of a small group of other wineries focused on upping the ante in Oregon chard . . . and it isn't just about Dijon clones. By the way, what was the last DS chard you had?

As for other excellent Oregon pinots, here's my picks:

2000 Bethel Heights Southeast Block Reserve (big aromas of flowey potpourri and spice cake combined with crushed mixed berries; forceful black cherry fruitiness in the mouth, hints of chocolate ans seeet spice; fine grained tannins) $40 (typical for small lot, hand made, low yield OR pinots, even in this economic climate). For me this was the wine of the vintage (with Cristom Louise, raptor Ridge Murto, and Domaine Drouhin not far behind). Here are a few others.

2000 Coleman Vineyard Reserve (warm spicy aormas of plum, dark cherries, blackberries and coffee; in the moputh lots of black fruit with cola, smoke, tobacco, and anise; nice balance, supple tannins) $34

Patty Green Cellars 2000 Bonshaw (elegant red cherry and raspberry fruit with a sense of warm earth, lilacs, vanilla and even basil . . . wonderfully balanced) $38

Lynn Penner-Ash again made a great pinot in 2000 (as well as 1999) (polished forward black vherry fruit with nuances of white pepper) $45.

I could go on (you don't want to get me started).

Killer bargain, if you can find any, is from a teensy little winery in the Applegate Valley (yes, the Applegate Valley) called The Academy. 2000 Pinot noir is incredibly clean (little or no oak), deep boysenberry core with blueberries surrounding, big cherry finish. All kinds of fruit . . . a really different pinot some will love some will think weird and turn up their noses. I love it . . . especially for $19. Other good values (low price, high flavor and character for the price, include Witness Tree Estate, Cameron Willamette valley, Benton-Lane . . . all 2000s . . . which is a very good vintage, though I liked 1999 better, and am really looking forward to 2002.

Got to go . . .

nevan

[Craig Camp]

I'd say keep checking in on Domaine Serene's chardonnays. Winemaker Tony Rynders is part of a small group of other wineries focused on upping the ante in Oregon chard . . . and it isn't just about Dijon clones. By the way, what was the last DS chard you had?

I would guess it was about 4 years ago. I try to have the pinots every year.

[Nevan]

Hi Craig:

See if you can get to taste the most recent two vintages of Domaine Serene chardonnay: I think you'll find them very different from 4 years ago. The vines have more age on them, the winemaker is more focused on them, and the character of the chardonnays has taken leaps forward.

Domaine Serene's 2000 Etoile Vineyard chard is very good, but I find the Cote Sud Vineyard to be excellent. Strong and flavorful fruit, excellent bright structure, little or no oak, Dijon Clone (which means earlier ripening in the cool Willamette Valley climate--though that hasn't been a problem the last 4 or 5 vintages) and a different flavor set than the older chard clones.

I think Domaine Serene is in the top five Oregon wineries producing a whole new generation of chardonnay. I haven't yet had the 2001s, but I am really looking forward to their 2002 chardonnay because the vintage was so great and they were really pleased with the fruit coming into the winery. We'll see!

[Carolyn Tillie]

Not from Oregon, but my favorite Pinot is from Napa Valley's Robert Sinskey. Organic and stupendous, IMHO.

[Fat Guy]

Has this Wine Spectator dude ever heard of SPARKLING wine?

Rhetorical question. They've given 90-92 scores to several Oregon bubbly specimens but there's nary a mention in this article.

Argyle, which Harvey Steiman (the above-referenced dude) has called "Oregon's premier winery" in other writings, got a bit of a bum rap in this piece. Were none of the better pinot noirs sampled? Maybe I have to read more carefully. Also, in the story text, there's this great stuff about the Argyle Nuthouse chardonnay but the way they categorized the lists at the end meant it never got mentioned in the part of the article people actually use for wine shopping purposes. I'm just sayin' it because I like the people at Argyle, and I bet reading this piece they're kind of scratching their heads.

Also WTF happened to Sokol Blosser (no mention)? And Ponzi's lineup (only one is mentioned)? What got tasted?

[mamster]

They didn't take a wine called Nuthouse seriously? Those jerks.

[Nevan]

Every year 'round about May the Wine Spectator does its little round-up of Oregon's wine scene. Mr. Steiman comes up, tastes and tours, and writes his story. I suspect this year he went out to Argyle (and Ponzi, et.al.) and discovered that, yup, they're still great (even though he gave relative short shrift to the pinots)! But there's not much of a story there; he's already done that. Of course they're still great: they have a vineyard and winemaking team that just have it knocked--they know what they are doing year in and year out.

So my guess is that he decided to turn the soil one layer deeper and spread his largess to the generally newer/smaller/younger winemakers working here. Good for him: I think he picked some of the right ones. In the past WS has emphasized DDO, Ken Wright, Ponzi, Argyle, Elk Cove . . . all rather obvious and somewhat easy choices (and all still very worthy). But Scott Shull (to name one of this year's profilees)? Not an obvious or easy choice. . . but a right one! Good for Spectator in bringing some of these folks to a broader audience . . . it's about time!

Switching gears somewhat, I need help. The charms of the oft' extolled Sokol Blosser have generally escaped me. They've got a great site, a nice big sign on Hwy 99, an impressive music lineup, and from what I have had, extremely . . . nice . . . wines. I'll admit to having a more spotty tasting history of SB, and so would be interested in learning what wines to try so I can get a better sense of what gets others so excited.

Thanks!

-nevan

[GordonCooks]

Fave Oregon Vintners

Argyle

Beaux Freres

Brick House

Chenhalem

Domaine Drouhin

Erath

Wetlaufer Old Vines

[John W.]

Scott Paul Oregon Pinot is killer and a good price too ($18 wholesale I think).

[claire797]

La Crema

Edited to say that this is a California wine. Somehow I missed the "Oregon" part.

Edited June 21, 2003 by claire797 (log)

[docsconz]

The Wine Spectator is occassionally pretty good as a travel mag, but I don't give it any credance as a wine journal. As far as I'm concerned they don't have any credibility for reasons that have previously been discussed on EG. Nevertheless, Oregon is certainly making some delicious PN's. One I haven't seen mentioned here yet that I have previously enoyed are the various bottlings from Archery Summit. I haven't had any of the more recent ones since Gary Andrus sold out. Any thoughts?

[GordonCooks]

The Wine Spectator is occassionally pretty good as a travel mag, but I don't give it any credance as a wine journal. As far as I'm concerned they don't have any credibility for reasons that have previously been discussed on EG. Nevertheless, Oregon is certainly making some delicious PN's. One I haven't seen mentioned here yet that I have previously enoyed are the various bottlings from Archery Summit. I haven't had any of the more recent ones since Gary Andrus sold out. Any thoughts?

Archery Summit is pretty well covered by WS - they feature all the mainstream as well as their reserve bottlings in their ratings.

[Nevan]

I am no fan of the Spectator for a variety of reasons, but I still say their coverage of Oregon this year gave overdue attention to some good new winemakers. Which is a relief from the contsant market attention on the tried-and-true producers, including Archery Summit--no matter how good and reliable they may be.

Not to knock AS. I love their wines and I enjoy the people there. But the "story" in Oregon is elsewhere!

Archery Summit is, what can I say, the summit of Pinot noir in Oregon--both in price and quality. They have their detractors (they use gobs of new oak and have a plush style) but for a complex, satisfying, and excellent wine, they are hard to beat (but hard to swallow at the prices they charge).

As the Spectator described, when Gary Andrus left (he is back in Oregon, by the way, but not associated with AS), the winemaking duties passed to Sam Tannahill, who had been his assistant. Sam is an extremely knowledeagble and able winemaker who has spent time in burgundy and is great at combining technical knowledge with the craft side of winemaking. He is now working with Bill Hatcher on a value negotiant-style label called A to Z, and has his fingers in a numbner of piess, er, vineyards (Sam is also married to Cheryl Francis who makes the superb wines from Chehalem--I wonder what their dinner conversation is like?). But Sam soon left Archery Summit and after an in-depth search, Anna Matziger became the winemaker. The official story, and it makes sense, is that Anna had unique experience with the estate fruit, and that the other candidates simply didn't "know Oregon" like her. Anna doesn't have quite the depth of experience that some had expected for AS, but she is highly focused and very familiar with every lot in the Archery Summit vineyards. I think she has proven to be a good choice.

I've tasted all the 2000s (Sam's wines) and all the 2001s in barrel (Anna's wines) that are now being released. I haven't yet tasted the 2002s in barrel, but am looking forward to it. Despite some carping from the sidelines by a bunch of folks, I don't think the quality has fallen off at all. I did find the 2001s marginally "rougher" than the 2000s, but the Arcus, Estate, Red Hills, and Premier Cuvee releases were still superb (the Renegade Ridge label is rather tannic and too earthy). I've always been a fan of the Red Hills, and I am certain that this wine has not diminshed in quality at all.

Great stuff . . . if you can afford it!

[Beachfan]

Chehalem is my fave.

[Fat Guy]

Switching gears somewhat, I need help. The charms of the oft' extolled Sokol Blosser have generally escaped me. They've got a great site, a nice big sign on Hwy 99, an impressive music lineup, and from what I have had, extremely . . . nice . . . wines. I'll admit to having a more spotty tasting history of SB, and so would be interested in learning what wines to try so I can get a better sense of what gets others so excited.

SB is unusual stuff, but I happen to enjoy it. You've really got to buy into the cherry-and-spice point-of-view, though. SB PN w/ foie is a great combo.

[Elissa]

When I heard him speak Ken Wright said he wanted to make wine to drink now, not wine to last for decades. Yet american PN (in my limited experience (and not having had any really old ones)) does not rival (say) La Tache. Clearly the lands and ideas diverge, but isn't one also better or worse? Do you sense movement from or towards an haut Burgundian style? Do you expect the wines to refine themselves over the next centuries (optimistic i know) into something as good?

btw i've liked Westrey.

Edited June 21, 2003 by lissome (log)

[Fat Guy]

La Tache.

No wine from Oregon costs $500 on release. In terms of soil, viticulture, winemaking knowledge, etc., I have no doubt that given license to make a $500 bottle, the folks at Argyle, Ponzi, or any of a handful of other places could produce something that would compete favorably against the best in the world. As it stands, in their price ranges, the best Oregonians are quite competetive with Burgundy -- in my opinion in terms of subtlety as well as quality.

[Elissa]

doesn't la tache command that price for what it may become?

[Fat Guy]

Sure, but with the exception of Archery Summit, the best Oregon PNs in the WS roundup cost $25-$50. The Burgundies in that price range aren't necessarily selling based on what they'll become either. I agree that nobody in Oregon is making anything to compete with the $300+ top-tier ageworthy Burgundies, but I'm not prepared to extrapolate much from that.

[ExpatRaver]

Been really happy with Bethel Heights. 1500 Case production from WV. Great value, and I'll put it a few notches up from Argyle.

[Carema]

I am of the opinion that OR pinot noir's heyday might have passed. 98 & 99 were very exciting vintages but in my experience you have a bunch of expensive PNs running around that are either: too soft or, over wrought. Everything I am seeing is 220 a case cost ( 18.33/btl cost) at a 30% pm that is 26 bucks on the shelf. I also had a discussion with a famous and established oregon pinot maker at length about a very bizarre marketing scheme that is going on there right now. Seems as if someone had the bright idea that if the packaging were pretty, people would pay. There are a bunch of people now buying up the rejected barrels from good producers, making a gignatic & strange cuvee and then bottling it under different brands in very sleek packaging.buyer beware. In fact IMO this is a very low moment for pinot noir in general. It is very sad. I guess it goes back to that long and winding thread- who is drinking burgundy anymore? Who is drinking pinot noir?

[Nevan]

Many Oregon winemakers like to say in one breath that they're not like Burgundy (Ken Wright makes his wines to be consumed within 3-5 years, very un-Burgundy) but that they are like Burgundy (Ken Wright makes his wines to show the terroir . . . a word he doesn't like to use . . . of each vineyard he buys from, very Burgundy-like). Some of this, IMHO, is a lack of confidence that they can produce AND SELL a purely Oregonian wine, that reflects the nature of this climate and soil and doesn't make any pretense at comparison to Burgundy or anywhere else.

Ironically, one winemaker who is very much trying to make wine that reflects purely Oregon aspects is Veronique Drouhin. She can talk more knowledgeably about what makes Oregon pinot different from anywhere else . . . and she rarely tries to compare it to Burgundy (she's also learned to use vineyard and winemaking techniques that work for Oregon and not Burgundy, so she doesn't just transplant her French model here).

I say let Oregon be Oregon and who cares how it compares to Burgundy . . .

In the "good times" some Oregon winemakers decided they could make a run at Burgundy pricing (and therefore market acceptance/credibility). Patty Green released the first $100 bottle at Torii Mor (1998 Quail Hill, 25 cases), and was quickly followed by Archery Summit et. al. I think the highest release price I ever saw was $125. That was then; this is now. There are still a few--very few--$100 releases, but they are not economic and are done for prestige factors. The ones I've tasted (then and now) are not worth their price at all.

And, yes, there is an awful lot of extra juice going begging. New negociant labels are showing up, and just like in France, the quality of the wine is dependent on the quality of the blender/bottler. A to Z is good value, EIEIO is good value, Goosehorn is iffy, etc. This isn't just an Oregon issue, though, it is all part of the same market shift based on excess supply and insufficient demand . . . any wonder there is the Two Buck Chuck phenomenon? And besides negociant labelling, there are also big wineries who have excess wine who are putting out third and fourth labels that disguise their involvement and dump the wine really cheaply to chain stores. And frankly, there are a whole bunch of people who buy wine on price alone, so this tactic moves the juice.

And, yes, it means some bad times for Oregon pinot noir, vintages aside . . . at least the high quality stuff that legitimately costs a lot to make and which should carry a premium price. In California alone there are more pinot noir vines going in the ground in the next two years than exist in all of Oregon today. No wonder you see Ken Wright, Lynn Penner-Ash, Argyle, Domaine Serene, Westrey and others starting to make Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Meunier, zinfandel, and loads of Syrah. Actually, the best stories in Oregon right now--and some of the best wine values--are in varietals other than pinot noir!

[Elissa]

Nevan: surely PN from both Burgundy and Oregon are lucky to have you in their camps. Thanks for all the info. Can we expect Northern RhOre-a-Gonian blends next?

Edited June 21, 2003 by lissome (log)