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TN: 3 Winners from the Loire


Craig Camp

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I tasted each of these wines several times over the last two days and wines like these make you wonder why we spend so much time talking about cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and chardonnay. These wines literally dance on the palate with their wonderful acidity and purity of fruit.

Muscadet Sevre et Maine, sur lie, Domaine de la Pepiere, 2001

This could be the finest Muscadet I have tasted. Brilliant pale gold. This wine is full of firm honey and mineral aromas that somehow succeeds in being lean and rich at the same time. There is a undercurrent of fresh bread dough that gives the green apple fruit and chalky aromas an extra dimension. Amazingly mouth-filling for such a firm, structured wine. The tart green apple flavors are enriched by a touch of honey richness followed by a firm mineral, sweet lemon and orange finish.

Touraine, Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay, 2001, Organically grown Ecocert Certified

C. Roussel et D. Barrouillet

Brilliant ruby/purple. Fresh cherry/raspberry aromas with an underlying touch of spices. This lovely wine is absolutely alive on the palate. The fresh acidity makes the bright flavors of dark wild fruits - cherry and plum - just explode on your palate. The amazing blend of delicacy and lightness on the palate combined with the literally singing fruit flavors have to be tasted to be believed. An extraordinary wine that will challenge palates deadened by over-extracted wines laden with alcohol and tannin. Drinking this wine is like watching a ballet.

Chinon, Les Granges, Domaine Bernard Baudry, 2001

Very brilliant and sparkling ruby with hints of purple. Fresh aromas of wild strawberries mixed with wild herbs - even a touch of lavender. These same essences continue on the palate. Strong bitter cherry flavors broaden into a kind of ripe yet dedicate ripe plum and edible flower flavors. The beautiful acidity refreshes and dances across your tongue. As soon as the long spicy fruit finish disappears you feel compelled to go back for another taste. Cabernet Franc at its best.

I highly recommend all of these wines, but be warned these are elegant ballet dancers high up on their toes not massive power wines. Compliments to Louis/Dressner for bringing in such treasures.

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Chinon.... Cabernet Franc is a woeful autumnal grape with restrained power, elegance and a hint of melancholy. It is our mission to get all of Chicago (or at least our small slice) into this underappreciated gros bouchet.

over it

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