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With pan-seared salmon, mushroom compote and baby greens salad:

1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir White Rose Vnyd.:

fresh and alive on the nose; cranberry, cola, black cherry, slight spice/

medium body, bright and racy on the palate with flavors that follow the nose and add a hint of maple sugar, good depth to the flavors, intense and concentrated, well balanced/

long, clean finish.

‘Has the sensation of vigor and youth but also unusual depth. On release, this wine seemed one dimensional and simple. Although it still retains its original, ripe sweetness, it is developing some complexity and slowly opening to reveal greater depth than its first impression.

Likely needs another 5 years to open fully but was excellent accompaniment to the salmon and mushrooms.

270 cases produced; about $60, delivered.

With assorted cheeses:

1996 Terre Rouge, Syrah Pyramid Block:

(I think this was the last year this vineyard designation was used.)

high-toned syrah smells more in the Hermitage mold than what I am used to from the US/

medium body, bright and almost edgy in the mouth with an integrated series of flavors ranging from bramble to raspberry; quite intense, concentrated, balanced/

medium, crisp finish.

Younger that its 7 years, it has shed a bit of its original tannin but retains its acidic backbone. Just beginning to open with good complexity and some very focused Hermitage-like syrah flavors.

For the past several years this wine has been closed and simply about its structure – I am pleased to see it “coming around,” albeit gradually.

Excellent with the cheese course.

About $40, full retail.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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