Black Forest, Lucerne and Geneva

[Hallie]

We will be driving through (and stopping in) Heidelberg, Baden-Baden, Lucerne and Geneva en route to (and back from) Italy. I've realised that I've spent so much time thinking about our arrival in Bologna that I've completely neglected my research into places to eat in Germany and Switzerland.

We'd really like to try restaurants that offer traditional cuisine from these areas. Also, some good fondue recommendations for Switzerland. Any feedback anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

[estherschindler]

I've been through the Black Forest twice, and though I had enjoyable meals in Baden-Baden I'm not sure I know enough to give specific restaurant recommendations.

However -- I'll recommend what to order, instead. If you're leaving soon (and your note implies that you are), you'll be in Germany in the middle of asparagus season. Most restaurants have asparagus specials, often advertised as "frische spargel" (I'm murdering the spelling). In fact, most have a separate menu with the asparagus items , and a major one is asparagus as entree.

That sounds odd to us, but IMHO it's wonderful. You get at least a half pound of white asparagus per person, generally accompanied with boiled white potatoes and hollandaise sauce. You often have a choice of add-on, such as sliced Black Forest Ham (for which we have a weakness).

[alithea]

There is a Michelin 3-star in Baiersbronn (Black Forest) called Schwarzwaldstube. It might also be Pfifferling (chanterelle) season, and like white asparagus, there are special menus centered around Pfifferlinge all around the country. Both Black Forest Ham and ham from Tirol are excellent, don't miss them.

[Wine Avenger]

For "traditional regional German cuisine" while driving thru Deutschland, just pull over. Don't expect unique culinary revelations. Its mostly about hearty, comfort type chow, but all too often deep fried, cream sauced to death and oversalted as all get out.

Great use of root vegetables, super fresh local ingredients, lot's of cured, pickled and smoked items and perhaps the world's most sure handed use of the lowly cabbage (kraut to remember). Bread and exotically seeded rolls are among the best anywhere.

As in most of Europe, unless its a top dining experience, avoid all temtation to order beef. It'll be unrecognizable as you know it and inciinerated to a deep grey (perhaps a good thing). Ditto for most typical restaurant lamb. If you believe as I do that everything from a pig is great, you'll get along just fine. The overall flavor palette of German cuisine though, is decidedly beige.

Germany is a beer drinker's paradise, but if wine's your game, guess what? 80% of the wine any reasonably cultured German drinks is dry (trocken)-Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) Gewürztraminer, Silvaner, all classic accompaniments to the seasonal spagel (asparagras), the novelty of which having had thrust at you in every course, every damned day, you will quickly tire of. Riesling has way too much personality and acidity for the funky green spears.

Speaking of Riesling, well balaced dry Riesling from Germany is what the Germans drink and is unquestionably the most food friendly wine on this planet. Most American importers are forever stuck on the sweet treadmill (amazing, unique wines with no peers, but somewhat limited food uses). Take this opurtunity to discover (nay, revel) in the dry Rieslings of Germany (I'm beginning to sound like a travel poster). They, and one of the most gorgeous and varied countrysides you have ever driven through will be the real revelation of your trip. Avoid all rotwein!!! (red wine as only the Germans could name it)

PS. The wurst rocks. WG

Edited May 2, 2003 by Wine Avenger (log)

[estherschindler]

I agree wholeheartedly with the Wine Avenger. But I do want to add one of my own surprises about food in Germany: an abundance of venison and rabbit on the menu, and a lot more duck than we're used to. The last time, I counted: in ten days, I saw only one restaurant that had a chicken dish listed.

The good side of this is that I discovered what good things could be done with venison and rabbit. The disadvantage is that I can't afford to make any of them myself, because the meat is so much more expensive here.

[pirate]

Evidently the Wine Avenger has not drunk the Baden reds from the Kaiserstuhl area. Or the delicious Spaetburgunder Weissherbsts.

[swissmiss]

If you are going in the summer, or even early summer if I remember well, make sure to eat filets de perche in Geneva. Since you'll be driving, you'll easily be able to go to one of the small villages along the coast of the lake. Hermance is really pretty and has good restaurants for filets de perche. They are definitely a specialty of the region. As far as fondue, a good one won't be hard to find either in Lucerne or in Geneva. Go to an old-looking place, nothing that looks like it's been around only a couple of years! (My favorite fondue place is Le cercle des agriculteurs in Chatel-St-Denis, which is right at the border between Vaud and Fribourg. The name, loosely translated, means the farmers' club, and is nothing fancy but has the best fondue.) In Geneva, I think that Les Armures in the Vieille Ville (Old Town) has good fondue. Malakoffs (fried breaded cheese) are another good specialty found around Geneva and in Vaud.

Enjoy your trip!

[alithea]

Evidently the Wine Avenger  has not drunk the Baden reds from the Kaiserstuhl area. Or the delicious Spaetburgunder Weissherbsts.

Right on!! I had a fabulous German Spaetbergunder at Restaurant Margaux in Berlin. German red wine can be VERY good -- but they make so little of it that it's all slurped up domestically, and you need to know what to look for. (Which is why I left it to the sommelier.) I wish I could name a Weingut that specializes in reds, but I can't. However they are around and are worth asking around for.

[vserna]

Les Armures is the absolute choice for fondue in Geneva's old town. Or (even better, to my taste) for raclette preceded by a healthy portion of 'viande séchée des Grisons', Switzerland's version of bresaola. The drink is a good chasselas white from Vaud or Valais. Look it up...

http://www.hotel-les-armures.ch/

[Paul Bell]

Definitely Les Armures in Geneva if you want the traditional Swiss thing.

In Lucerne the best restaurant is probably the Old Swiss House, very similar in style to Les Armures but probably not as good.

My favourite restaurant in Lucerne is in the Wilden Mann hotel (actually three restaurants as they have a terrace, a dining room and a stube, the same kitchem and food but very different rooms. The food is quite traditional with some lighter Italianate touches, which I guess is still traditional if you come from Lugano.

Another good restaurant is the Rotes Gatter in the Hotel des Balances, it has a terrace by the river and serves a lighter style of food but very good.

Paul