Memphis in May

[Johnathon]

I have decided to hang up the jackets and ties, empty my head of planned trips to French Laundry, Trotters and Ducasse (for the time being) and returning to the age old tradition of pulled pork and BBQ.

I will be in Memphis for the big BBQ competition in May:

http://www.memphisinmay.org/frames.html

...and was wondering if anyone from the area, or those that have been before, could recommend must sees, must do's, must eats and most importantly, the stay the hell away from...

As a photographer and an avid fan of food, this intrigues me as a unique event and one to experience at least once. Travel, food and drink have been documented for a personal book of recipes, great dining experiences, rotten dining experiences and my favourite part... trying to recreate the brilliant dishes eaten around the world by phenomenal chefs at home with local ingredients (bumbling my way through of course!).

I would appreciate anyone giving me more info on the dining (or lack of) in Memphis and watering holes not to be missed for the next chapter in the book of good eats.

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

Hey Johnathon,

I'm a Memphian...not proud of it...but if you want to organize an eGullet group for your pilgrimmage to Memphis I'd be glad to lead the tour.

[Johnathon]

Sorry for the delay, had to wrestle some red chili, cilantro, pancetta pasta off the stove before the hockey game starts!

Your offer is not only generous, but deeply appreciated. My sister and her husband are currently living in Memphis so the group could be a wonderfully diverse crowd to shake up the town and see what food falls out!

I am thinking Sunday, May 18th. Start early and finish late on Beale Street. Would love to hear some of your suggestions for destinations. I will be at the BBQ competition all day the day before gorging myself on as much of the festival's offerings as possible so an evening of maybe at least one white table followed by a series of sauce stained tables would be a great idea.

Anybody else care to join us?

[Johnathon]

Forgot to ask you Spencer, is your avatar from MediEvil? It mad me want to refill my life potions to keep attacking zombies!

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

Forgot to ask you Spencer, is your avatar from MediEvil? It mad me want to refill my life potions to keep attacking zombies!

I'm pleadin' the fifth on that one. But the outing sounds great. As for white table cloth spots you may want to hit Wally Joe's. I've been here thirteen long ass years and have yet to attend a BBQ fest. Up until a couple of years ago the thing wasn't open to the public. Sure you could walk around and watch the goings on but couldn't touch the Q. I'd be discovering the fest along with you guys. Let's get a group together.

[Johnathon]

Sounds like a plan. Once I finalize my travel arrangements I will email my contact info to you off list. You can reach me on my cell phone while in Memphis.

I believe my sister is going to arrange for VIP access to the BBQ competition so I will be able to eat with the judges. I will do my best to see if the invitation can be extended to an e-gullet gathering of sorts.

Is there anywhere else besides Wally Joe's to check out? Doesn't have to be white table as it IS Memphis after all! Just really good food, I am all over local fare or regional specialties.

[Ron Johnson]

I cooked on a team in the Memphis in May contest for a couple of years. Spencer is right, it used to be that the public couldn't eat any of the 'cue. It is my understanding that has changed, so it should be a good time.

Downtown has changed a lot since I got out of Memphis, but I used to like the jukebox at Ernestine and Hazels, the 'cue at Cozy Corner, and food at the North End. If you venture into midtown, check out Old Zinnies and Alex's for some good drinks, and Huey's and Finos for some grub.

Memphis has some good fine dining restaurants, but Spencer would be more up to date on those than I would. Besides, for the kind of weekend that you are planning, you should stick with brews, blues, and barbeque.

[Holly Moore]

I really liked a place in Memphis - The Four Way Grill. Some of the best fried chicken and peach cobbler in the South. Last time through Memphis, a few years ago, it seemed they had closed. Then someone told me it is open. Anyone know, open or closed?

[Johnathon]

Thanks to everyone for some more thoughts as to where to go, what to eat and what to do!

Ron, when were you last in Memphis? Are the places you mentioned still running?

I am beginning to agree that the schedule should really consist of brews, blues and BBQ as the order of the day (and night) for Memphis in May.

Finding the perfect fried chicken is definitely a must as well for this sojourn, especially considering the amount of pork I will be consuming at the BBQ competition! Where is the Four Way Grill located (if it is still there)?

[Ron Johnson]

The places I have mentioned are still up and running. You must have a pulled pork sandwich at the Cozy Corner with the extra hot sauce. Its killer.

The Rendezvous is tourist-laden, but they make good 'cue. If the wait is too long, tell them that you will sit at the bar. Of course, you could easily skip the Rendezvous and have great bbq elsewhere. The Interstate makes really good BBQ, but its a pain to get to.

Fino's is an Italian deli in Midtown. If you need a break from the 'cue go there for an Aquisto or and Agosti sandwich. Very very good.

I am not crazy about Corky's like everyone else in Memphis, its too much like a chain to me. Automatic Slims Tonga Club is frun for a drink while you are walking around downtown, not sure how the food is these days. I could give you a ton more suggestions, but I will defer to Spencer.

Just don't miss Cozy Corner.

[Holly Moore]

I really liked a place in Memphis - The Four Way Grill.  Some of the best fried chicken and peach cobbler in the South.  Last time through Memphis, a few years ago, it seemed they had closed.  Then someone told me it is open.  Anyone know, open or closed?

In which I answer my own question. Alas: Four Way Restaurant

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

GUS' fried chicken is the only fried chicken to eat in Memphis, bar none. Barbeque, do Interstate bbq. Hamburgers--try Dyer's--they fry em in grease that's reportedly 100 years old. In fact, when they moved locations about ten years back the grease was transfered via Brinks truck. Fine dining, as stated above, has fallen by the wayside here. The economy has strangled anyone with talent and let the pecan crusted salmon with beurre blanc drones stand tall. It's all about corporate restaurants and lack of talent....

[Holly Moore]

try Dyer's--they fry em in grease that's reportedly 100 years old.  In fact, when they moved locations about ten years back the grease was transfered via Brinks truck.  Fine dining, as stated above, has fallen by the wayside here.

It appears that you contradict yourself within the course of these three sentences. What greater commitment to fine dining than the use of 100 year old grease? !!!

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

try Dyer's--they fry em in grease that's reportedly 100 years old.  In fact, when they moved locations about ten years back the grease was transfered via Brinks truck.  Fine dining, as stated above, has fallen by the wayside here.

It appears that you contradict yourself within the course of these three sentences. What greater commitment to fine dining than the use of 100 year old grease? !!!

am i missing something? oh nevermind, that's the bane of my existence.

[201]

What's the general scene like for this festival? Is it too late to book a hotel room?

I've been thinking about a trip down to Memphis anyway and this seems like it might be a nice pretense. I notice that Korea is the international highlight this year and that there's quite a bit relating to that aspect of the festival that I would be interested in (certainly not the least of which being a new work by Nam June Paik).

Does Memphis have much of a Korean population and dining scene or will this be a relatively new introduction to the area? As much as I love Southern BBQ, I'd definitely spend a good deal of time at any Korean stalls as well!!

So, basically, I guess what I'm really asking is... will this be worth the trip?

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

What's the general scene like for this festival?  Is it too late to book a hotel room?

I've been thinking about a trip down to Memphis anyway and this seems like it might be a nice pretense.  I notice that Korea is the international highlight this year and that there's quite a bit relating to that aspect of the festival that I would be interested in (certainly not the least of which being a new work by Nam June Paik). 

Does Memphis have much of a Korean population and dining scene or will this be a relatively new introduction to the area?  As much as I love Southern BBQ, I'd definitely spend a good deal of time at any Korean stalls as well!! 

So, basically, I guess what I'm really asking is... will this be worth the trip? 

Is it ironic that our jail in Memphis is located at 201 Poplar. We just call it 201. But seriously, not a great Korean population. No Korean restaurants. You'd probably score a res. with little effort but call now if you want to come. Music fest is always a blast. Three days of big name acts on the Mississippi River. It's our Woodstock. Always seems to rain and create massive mud puddles--which concert goers love to bath in. Barbeque fest is a purported a good time...and like I said before you may actually get to eat the Q. Next year we're saluting Syria....

Edited April 21, 2003 by Chef/Writer Spencer (log)

[Johnathon]

Syria and BBQ mentioned in the same post, I am seeing a very politically incorrect joke coming out of this!

201: The Music Fest, the salute to Korean Cuisine and the BBQ competition all happen at different times of the month of May. Please hit the link at the beginning of this thread to see the schedule so you can decide how many days and which events you would like to attend.

I opted to attend the BBQ Competition only as I have very little travel time in my schedule. Also coming from an incredibly diverse culturally infused city like Vancouver, Asian cuisine (and very good dining establishments at that!) is commonplace. Memphis to me is what Ron mentioned earlier Brews, Blues and BBQ's!

Looking forward to it.