"Jean-Georges at the Berkeley"?

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate information on the restyling of Vong as "Jean-Georges at the Berkeley", per the website for The Berkeley Hotel.

http://www.savoy-group.co.uk/Berkeley/Rest...enu/default.asp

[tony h]

cabby - has he taken over from Koffman - there's an interview with koffman on the site but no mention of his diner? Its not clear from the website (which isn't very easy to navigate).

[Wilfrid]

The menu and, from memory, the prices seem a step up from Vong. Are we sure this in the Vong space, or could it be in the Tante Claire space (the web-site not having quite caught up with itself)?

[cabrales]

I believe Wareing gets the La Tante Claire space, and Jean-Georges keeps his Vong space. However, I can't be sure.

The menu is definitely not Vong-type. I haven't been to Jean-Georges enough times to compare the Jean-Georges at The Berkeley menu to the J-G menu in NY. Given my subjectively not liking J-G's cuisine in NY, I can't imagine going to J-G-B when Gordon Ramsay RHR and The Square are alternatives. I would even go to Petrus over J-G-B.

I wonder how much competition will be engendered between J-G-B and Petrus. How interesting things will become over at The Berkeley.

Edited January 15, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[Wilfrid]

I did scan the menu for NY Jean-Georges sig dishes and couldn't see any. Looks like Vong, only fancied up.

Confusing use of the brand name. And at current exchange rates, I believe the tasting menu is more expensive than NY Jean-Georges - in fact no, I see you can pay $120 for a tasting menu in NY. Sixty quid is close on $100 anyway.

Edited January 15, 2003 by Wilfrid (log)

[cabrales]

I would worry about humiliation at the hands of Wareing if I were J-G and charging 60 Pounds for a tasting menu (albeit one with six courses prior to dessert), relative to Petrus' current 60 Pounds tasting menu (four courses with two desserts). Frankly, apart from foodies, diners in London probably wouldn't recognize Jean-George's name. (I wondered how many people would recognize Gagnaire's name). Everybody is going to recognize "Marcus Wareing's Petrus".

Interestingly, Ramsay cares enough about Wareing's establishment (despite his partial interest) to have listed Petrus (at least a while ago), along with RHR, in the recorded message one got while waiting to be connected to Claridge's reservations.

My take on the J-G-B menu:

-- "Duck breast glazed with 'dragees', baby turnip, sauteed" is a dish "inspired" by a Parisian three-star chef (who has a recipe that utilizes pigeonneau).

-- On Vong, below for comparison is the NY Vong indicative menu from Jean-George's website. Note that there is much more of an Asian flavor to Vong dish names and more explicit mention of Asian spicing than on the J-G-B menu (which admittedly does mention lemongrass, cumin, ginger, etc. -- but a less explicitly Asian overall feel to J-G-B):

APPETIZERS

THE BLACK PLATE (2 PERSON MINIMUM) $23 PER PERSON

CRAB SPRING ROLLS WITH TAMARIND DIPPING SAUCE $13

PRAWN SATAY WITH FRESH OYSTER SAUCE $15

LOBSTER & DAIKON ROLL, ROSEMARY- GINGER DIP $16

RAW TUNA & VEGETABLES WRAPPED IN RICE PAPER $12

QUAIL RUBBED WITH THAI SPICES, CRUNCHY CRESS SALAD $14

ROASTED SWEETBREAD ON LICORICE SATAY, ASIAN PEAR SALAD $14

CHICKEN AND COCONUT MILK SOUP, GALANGAL AND SHIITAKES $8

CRISP VEGETABLE ROLLS, NAM-PRIK VINAIGRETTE $9

SAUTEED FOIE GRAS WITH GINGER AND MANGO $25

DUCK ROLLS WITH PLUM SAUCE $9

SEARED TUNA WITH SZECHUAN PEPPERCORN, SOY-MUSTARD SAUCE $14

WARM ASPARAGUS SALAD WITH AVOCADO & ENOKI MUSHROOMS $12

ENTREES

CRISP BEAN CURD WITH SWEET AND SOUR MUSHROOM BROTH $16

SPICED COD FISH WITH CURRIED ARTICHOKES $19

MONKFISH BAKED WITH SPECIAL SPICES & SEEDS,

POTATOES & ASPARAGUS $27

SALMON WITH LENTIL CRUST, ORANGE-GINGER SAUCE, WILTED

ENDIVE AND SWEET POTATOES $20

STEAMED BLACK BASS, CARDAMON SAUCE, CABBAGE AND WATERCRESS $26

LOBSTER WITH THAI HERBS $36

ORGANIC CHICKEN WITH LEMONGRASS, SWEET RICE IN BANANA LEAF $19

RABBIT CURRY, CARROTS BRAISED WITH GALANGAL $25

BEEF SHORT RIBS BRAISED WITH TAMARIND, MASHED POTATOES $22

DUCK ORIENTAL $26

CRISP SQUAB WITH EGG NOODLE PANCAKE, HONEY-

GINGER GLAZED PEARL ONIONS $30

Edited January 15, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[Andy Lynes]

I believe Wareing gets the La Tante Claire space, and Jean-Georges keeps his Vong space. However, I can't be sure.

That is correct according to this Caterer news article that also covers Jean George. However, when you click on the image for Jean George on the Berekley website, it comes up with a picture of the current La Tante Claire, which is confusing.

[Andy Lynes]

I spoke to the Berkeley's PR department this morning. Jean George has moved into the old La Tante Claire space whilst Vong is refurbished. This should take a couple of months. Jean George will then vacate LTC which David Collins will then renovate. At this point in time , nothing has been 100% decided about who will run the newly refurbished room, although both the Savoy Group and Gordon Ramsay Restaurants are keen that it does become Petrus.

[cabrales]

The Savoy Group is clearly on the side of Gordon Ramsay, who has the recognition in London and whose affiliates are stationed at some the Savoy Group's other properties (Claridge's and The Connaught too (?)). I think J-G is not going to get the LTC space if GR and Wareing want it.

[Andy Lynes]

Sorry Cabrales, re-reading my last post I see I wasn't clear. Jean Georges will definately return to what was Vong, it's being refurbished for that purpose. The question is whether Petrus will occupy the old LTC space once Jean George is settled into it's new home, or if it will be another operator other than the Gordon Ramsay Group that move into it.

[cabrales]

Andy -- If the Savoy Group would likely want Petrus to move into the LTC space, why would another operator receive it? Is it a question of Wareing changing his mind on the move, given that he presumably wanted the move to occur?

[Andy Lynes]

The PR guy just said that nothing had been decided at this point, which I take to mean that the contract is being negotiated. I'm sure Gordon and Marcus want the best possible deal for themselves and The Savoy will try and get them at the best price. They already have very stong contacts with the Savoy Group as they are already run both Claridges and The Connaught, and Marcus is supposeadly taking over the River Room at the Savoy itself so my guess is that it will happen and the PR man is hedging his bets.

[cabrales]

On contract negotiation with The Savoy, to the extent Koffmann did not want to leave, why did he not appear to have in place options to extend his pre-existing lease? Wouldn't he have demanded certain assurances of being able to continue at The Berkeley before vacating RHR?

I wonder what leasing practices for restaurants are in London.

[Andy Lynes]

I believe Koffmann got a great deal when he moved. My understanding from the coverage at the time was that he kept the proceeds from the sale of RHR and then had no set up costs whatsoever at The Berekely. I would guess that under those circumstance he was happy to move under the terms of the initial lease and was happy to take the risk of it not being renewed. After all, he was a 3 star chef with a full restaurant, impeccable reputation and the thought of losing a star and not remaining at the hotel for as long as he liked was probably the furtherst thing from his mind. All guess work though, you'd have to ask the man himself, and when he opens up again this autumn, perhaps we'll get the chance!

[cabrales]

Upon inquiry, I was advised by a Jean-Georges at The Berkeley representation: "The menu has been specifically designed by Jean-Georges, incorporating dishes from both Vong and Jean-Georges."

[Scott]

Financially La Tante Claire had been performing badly, very badly.

Koffmann began shaving the salaries of his existing staff to cut costs, but to no avail -

he just wasn't profitable enough and got the boot.

Chef's ego was not best pleased.

[Andy Lynes]

Very interesting Scott, are you in the business by any chance?

[cabrales]

In what way might Koffman's profits have been relevant to The Savoy group? Did the lease provide for a sharing of LTC profits with the landlord, and is that a practice in the UK?

I would imagine that The Savoy group would have been more interested in customer traffic, so that hotel patrons would be attracted to the The Berkeley and the hotel's prestige would be enhanced, rather than the profits (after taking into account costs) made by Koffman.

[dallardice]

This week's Time Out reports a rumoured falling-out between J-G and the Berkeley, meaning that his new restaurant will not open there. Ramsay is now reportedly looking at the Vong space for a "cafe-style" operation. No change on the Berkeley website at the moment....

[Paul Bell]

The Caterer has confirmed that JG and the Savoy group have not been able to agree on a deal for Vong to remain in the Berkeley hotel, and the space is being taken over by Gordon Ramsay, no details as to what it will be though.

Paul