Celeste

[Suvir Saran]

Celeste

502 Amsterdam Avenue, near 84th Street

212-874-4559

Melancholy and pre-occupied, I was cajoled by dear friends to join them for a healing meal at a local favorite of theirs on the Upper West Side.

This couple will remain nameless for they wield much clout in NYC and it would be a shame for me to be name dropping. But Andrea (one of the more charming, attentive and kind servers I have met in NYC) who waited on our table will remember our group and we her.

I arrived a minute after our dinner reservation. My friends were early. The porch is cleverly and most wonderfully used as a waiting area for guests. How brilliant and simple a gesture, but one not most often used. I was not aware of this detail at the moment but in retrospect, I am impressed and charmed. It was a perfect start for an evening that turned out every bit the healer I needed.

Minutes after I joined my friends in the porch, our table (round and cozy for having intimate and meaningful conversations, which was our goal) was ready. We were invited to follow Andrea, our server for the duration. In her quiet and unobtrusive manner was also the wizardry that comes from a natural instinct for serving without requiring affirmation.

The 2 men at the table were in no mood to drink. My first meal without coke or orange juice, Shirley Temple or Roy Rogers (I order the last two to get shocked looks and surprised stares from friends). We stayed with NYC water, I, in fact drank none over the course of the evening. Our lady friend, the much revered New Yorker drank a glass of wine. No looks were given, no sense of worry about a humble check. Andrea was gracious and lovely.

Even before I had read through the menu, my friends had ordered La Margherita and the Napoletana pizzas. My friends, keen and well versed with Italian fare through years of travel to Italy and months of stay in its many regions, had assured me I would be eating great pizza tonight. They had dined at Otto last night where I had visited last night, not to eat but to give my respects and hellos to several friends seated in several tables. I anticipated this pizza with great trepidation. Having been to DiFara's, and Otto a couple of times in one week, I was not sure I could be charmed yet again in one week.

For reasons best not discussed, I had indicated to my hosts (friends) that I was on a diet and would eat very little. In fact a slice or two of pizza were more than I ought to have eaten, and that was what I had said.

They ordered Frittura di Vegetali di Stagione (seasonal fried fresh vegetables, $8.50) and Carciofi Fritti (fried artichokes, $7.50). I knew this was done with me in mind. The road food warrior (how my male dining companion has been referred to in some food stories) loves meat dearly and my lady friend is no less of a carnivore. They knew me to well and knew my passion for fried foods. Through their mouths, they ordered what I would have ordered when not melancholic.

For the main course they ordered Salmon Croccante (crispy roasted salmon with spinach and potatoes, $14.50) and Paccheri con Ricotta e Pomodoro (very large ribbon paste with ricotta and tomato, $9.50). Note, the carnivorous road food warrior ordered vegetarian with me in mind. What power food has to heal. And especially in the capable hands of sensitive, caring and close friends.

The pizzas arrived shortly after the order had been placed. Nice sized pies. The crust was nice and chewy without being too thin. The crust was thin, but firm enough to carry the weight of a generous amount of sauce (Fat Guy, you would be very happy) and enough cheese to make the American in all of us happy, without any of us feeling the Italian classic had been compromised in any way. The tomato sauce was tasty and salted just so perfectly that the cheese complimented the salt without adding way too much of its own. A detail many chefs forget or simply do not care about. The basil was fresh and ample. I stayed away from the Anchovy and caper topped Napoletana. And believe me it was not easy, it looked amazing. Again the crust seemed perfect. It was not getting soggy and breaking as often becomes the case with thin crust pizzas. And yet the toppings were generous. The road food warrior seemed mighty happy with his choice. And my charming lady friend and I were happy sharing the Margherita. I think she was able to share a half slice with him. And her eyes spoke of great enjoyment that simplicity of fresh ingredients can bring.

The fried vegetables and artichokes arrived next. They were most beautiful to look at. Next time I shall go with a camera. Italian food like Indian, is not always the most attractive when plated. It charms you once you have indulged in it, and after that, looks certainly play very little if any role in its enjoyment. It is the smells, the memories and the passion of the people that become your guide. These two plates were some of the best deep fried foods I have eaten in America. I consider myself the deep fry King. I do it often and do it very well, even if I must say so myself. I find most deep frying (sadly, also those tempura platters I have had at the finest Japanese kitchens) very underwhelming. Most often the batter is too thin, or too dense, or over or under seasoned or most often, just too greasy. At Celeste, they shared a mastery of the deep frying technique. And all 3 of us were lucky to have been its benefactors. The fried onions were addictive. I can never desire onion rings easily, I have been spoiled now (only ones that achieved a similar standing in my book are the ones I had in grandma Hayes town in West Virginia). The vegetables were perfectly fried, they were salted and seasoned with the right balance and there was no trace of grease. Perfect temperature and careful handling after removing from the fryer can help achieve this. The artichokes were fried to a crunchiness that made them crisp but still left some meaty texture in them. What was noteworthy was the fried parsley and the very generous amount of it served with the artichokes. My dear lady friend noted how they loved fried artichoke in Italy but this one became so much better courtesy of the fried herb. And I must say, fried herbs can be just a mere gimmick in some places (since very little of the herb is really used) but at Celeste the chef understood that it was not enough to have used the herb while deep frying, but sharing it in a generous portion elevated the overall experience. I greedily and happily shared both these decisions. I had forgotten my promise to myself for eating light this night. Not that I needed any example, but this clearly made me realize how special dear friends are. They know us better than we know ourselves. At least on some occasions.

Reluctantly and sadly, I knew we had finished our fried course and it was not time for the main courses to come out. I was amazed to see the most beautifully crusted salmon find its way in front of my lady friend. I was at once worried that the salmon may have been cooked a tad much for her liking. She is always after rare fish, well even with meats. Even before this thought had been fully digested by me, my friend questioned Andrea if she had made sure to ask for rare salmon. Andrea with great confidence said yes and that the salmon was certainly rare. We were all happy hearing it, but certainly a little suspicious still. The road food warrior was served his Paccheri con Ricotta e Pomodoro, I was craving the sauce from my seat at the table. I was given a sharing plate. Life seemed beautiful that very moment. Just as quickly as Andrea disappeared, I had the prettiest and tastiest looking fried potatoes on my plate along with some sautéed greens. My first bite into those potatoes took me back to my appreciation of the fried seasonal vegetables. I understood that the chef knew exactly what it took to prepare vegetables with oil. In his hands they found a great tool to take them to their most appropriate next level as immortal food for mere mortals. The greens were not overcooked and yet were not as raw as one can often find in restaurants. The garlic too was ample but without being enough to wound your tongue and kill your ability to taste other foods. The pasta was artisanaly prepared in Italy and the sauce brought to each bite the joy that flashes before me every time I think of good Italian pastas and sauces. The ricotta was just enough to give a nice texture and creaminess without making the dish too heavy. With some freshly ground black peppercorn, I was sated beyond belief. My lady, my sweet friend, knew my weakness for potatoes and proclaimed that she could not eat too much starch and I must eat the remainder of these marvelous potatoes lest they get wasted. She had been charmed by the chefs expertise in rendering a perfectly crunchy and golden crust on the salmon without rendering it overcooked and thereby inedible for her taste. The two of them had understood why this small restaurant had found a place of great repute in their minds. I had realized that with this couple that ate more meals in restaurants than anyone I knew in NYC, searching for new places, it was interesting and compelling to see them come to this place when on that rare occasion, they found themselves eating for pleasure and not for work. I realized what I had understood when first invited, that this was their chosen place, not just another find. I was happy I made the effort to put melancholy behind me and open myself to this opportunity given me by great caring friends.

My friend the most caring lady friend one could hope for, was beginning to describe the cheese assortment and the many stories that come to their mind when thinking of Celeste and its foods, when Andrea came to our table bearing a gift from the chef, a plate of assorted cheeses. Caccio Cavallo, Mild Gorgonzola, Saffron cured pecorino, truffle cured goat cheese and a strong very smelly, thousand year old very soft, dense pudding textured, strong-strong gorgonzola were the chosen cheeses of this night. They were served with chestnut honey (certainly very tasty, but also a beautiful color) and a fig marmalade, not a fan of figs, I can now appreciate why so many people love that fruit. I enjoyed all the cheeses except the very strong soft gorgonzola. My friends told me how one of the partners of Celeste, Carmine hand picked these cheeses in Italy. He is able to smuggle them into the US packed in a suitcase. Many of the cheeses are those that are made in very small batches. John Carlo and his wife Roberta (partners at the restaurant) also own Teodora, another restaurant nearby. It was no surprise for them to find out a while back that Giancarlo Quadalti and Roberta are from the family that owns Rosetta, the best sea food restaurant in all of Rome. Carmine was not at the restaurant to introduce me to the cheeses, but in his absence, my friends and Andrea did a very fine job making the cheese indulgence a treat unlike any other.

My friends tell me the gelato served here is superb and worth the price you pay for it. It is made by an expert downtown and bought my Celeste as the chef and owners try giving their customer the best they can.

I would go back to Celeste when in the hood for sure. But I would also go there to share a great experience with friends. I can tell you for sure that food can heal, and after this meal, I found new vigor, and certainly this long post can attest to that being true.

What the magical Gael Greene had to say about Celeste

Edited January 13, 2003 by Suvir Saran (log)

[jaybee]

Thank you for that review, Suvir.

Celeste replaced Campo, an Argentinian grill that served some of the best hangar steak as part of a prix fixe lunch. I was sorry to see it go.

We've eaten at Celeste twice shortly after opening and found the pizza to be the "main event." My impression was that the starters were more appealing than the entree dishes. Several main courses and pastas left us dissatisfied. Perhaps they have found their stride and improved these dishes. We are their neighbors, and so would hope for a very good kitchen. Based on your experience, I will give it another try.

[Suvir Saran]

Thank you for that review, Suvir. 

Celeste replaced Campo, an Argentinian grill that served some of the best hangar steak as part of a prix fixe lunch.  I was sorry to see it go.

We've eaten at Celeste twice shortly after opening and found the pizza to be the "main event."  My impression was that the starters were more appealing than the  entree dishes.  Several main courses and pastas left us dissatisfied.  Perhaps they have found their stride and improved these dishes.  We are their neighbors, and so would hope for a very good kitchen.  Based on your experience, I will give it another try.

Jaybee what pizzas did you eat there?

What starters do you remember as having tasted?

How long ago was this?

[Rail Paul]

Ed's Levine's food program ("DISH") on Friday originated from Celeste. Much discussion of the menu, inlcuding the artichoke items noted by Suvir.

The group seemed to enjoy it immensely, although I'd doubt they were served exactly the same food an ordinary diner might get.

Archive versions of the show may be available on wnyc's website. It originates, in edited form, on Friday afternoon,at 3 in New York, following the parade of lefty commentators who dominate talk radio on wnyc...

[jaybee]

Suvir, we ate there the day after they opened and the day their blurb appeared in the New York Times. I recall ordering the seafood misto and two pizzas, but I don't remember the specific ones. I also ordered a chicken dish and a pasta. I recall leaving feeling that the pizzas, with their thin crusts were thme main things that were "special" there. The rest of the food, while not bad, did not leave us with a strong desire to return soon. And we haven't.

[Suvir Saran]

Rail Paul, we may well have had the Ed Levine affliction.

But that is the case most everywhere I dine with this couple.

So the standard met by the kitchen was still surprisingly better than at many other places where our friends are recognized.

It was a great meal.

[La Niña]

I went to Celeste a couple of times about 2 months ago. We didn't try the pizza - but neither meal was particularly interesting. It was fine, but nothing special - I'd go back if I were in that neighborhood, but it wouldn't be first on my UWS list.

Edited January 13, 2003 by La Niña (log)

[Suvir Saran]

Ed's Levine's food program ("DISH") on Friday originated from Celeste.  Much discussion of the menu, inlcuding the artichoke items noted by Suvir.

Rail Paul, do you remember what they said about the artichokes? Just curious....

[Rail Paul]

Ed's Levine's food program ("DISH") on Friday originated from Celeste.  Much discussion of the menu, inlcuding the artichoke items noted by Suvir.

Rail Paul, do you remember what they said about the artichokes? Just curious....

It made an impact on me as artichokes are only occasionally mentioned on the radio. Don't recall the specifics

The edition currently on the wync website is Esca from two weeks ago.

I'm guessing the Celeste segment will show up later this week

[jaybee]

I believe Celeste is owned by Giancarlo Quadalti who owns Teodora's, serving Emilia-Romagna style dishes. I wish I had been knocked out by the food. Maybe next time I'll mumble something that sound like "red libeen" and they'll serve us a special meal.

Edited January 14, 2003 by jaybee (log)

[Suvir Saran]

I believe Celeste is owned by people who have another Italian place further south, the name of which escapes me.  They are extremely nice people.  I wish the food had won us over.  Maybe next time I'll mumble something that sounds like red libeeen and see if we get different food. 

I think I mentioned the other place... It is Teodora. They also own a place in Rome that some believe to be the best seafood restaurant there.

[jaybee]

I think I mentioned the other place... It is Teodora.

So you did.

[Felonius]

Admin: threads merged.

I realize there's already a thread about Celeste, but I'd like to start another based on the amazing cheeses I tried there last night.

I've eaten at Celeste six times now and believe it offers one of the best food values on the upper West side. Great homemade pastas (try the ravioli with ricotta and spinach or the tagliatelli with sheep's milk cheese, shrimp and cabbage) for under $10 a plate.

Last night, Carmine (the owner) dropped by my table and convinced me to order a cheese tasting. Little did I know what I was in for!

After dinner, we were brought a tasting course of perhaps 15 cheeses, and I asked the waiter if Carmine would be willing to tell us a bit about them. Carmine sat down at our table and spent the next 30 minutes explaining each cheese in incredible detail. He said that he has over 50 cheeses in his inventory, and ages many of them himself in Italy. I was having too much fun at this point to take notes, so I can only offer a few impressions of my favorite cheeses as follows:

A goat cheese with a juniper and ash crust - incredibly creamy with just enough earthy bite to it.

A cheese that tasted like a French Epoisse - this was the best cheese I've ever tasted in NYC.

A goat cheese that was aged in special pits dug in the ground - Carmine went into an elaborate description of how this cheese was aged in these pits (something to do with religious holidays, clay, cement, straw, and all sorts of tradition - I wish I could remember!). Whatever these people are doing, they're doing a damn good job of it! This was a hard cheese with a texture and flavor a bit reminiscent of Ossau-Iraty to me. Fantastic flavor.

All of the cheeses were excellent and many were accompanied with homemade relishes (bitter orange gelee, quince puree, rhubarb compote, etc.) individually conceived as a complement to a particular cheese. I thought the relishes were a great addition to the cheese.

I must say I was completely unprepared for such an amazing cheese tasting. All of the cheeses were fantastic, with full flavors usually only found at the source in France and Italy. Carmine's obvious passion for fine cheese and his encyclopedic knowledge on the topic made the experience educational as well as fun.

I recommend that any serious cheese-aholics make a pilgrimmage to Celeste (Amsterdam and 85-86th) and ask Carmine to bring them the full cheese tasting menu. Just be sure to arrive early or late, as at prime time there is usually a long wait, and they do not take reservations.

Edited May 18, 2004 by slkinsey (log)

[jogoode]

I've always wanted to try that pasta with shrimp, cabbage and sheep's cheese. They advertise the pasta as egg noodles --is tagliatelli made with egg?

I second the recommendation of the restaurant, and its cheese plate. An outstanding value. I can't stay away from the flat, tubular pasta (name?) served simply with tomato sauce and ricotta. Their tiramisu is great, too.

I believe the owners are opening a spot on Bleeker dedicated to the cuisine of Emilia Romagna. Might even be open now...

[jgould]

does celeste have french wines?

[jogoode]

I don't think so. And their list is pretty small.

[jogoode]

After dinner, we were brought a tasting course of perhaps 15 cheeses, and I asked the waiter if Carmine would be willing to tell us a bit about them.  Carmine sat down at our table and spent the next 30 minutes explaining each cheese in incredible detail.   He said that he has over 50 cheeses in his inventory, and ages many of them himself in Italy.   I was having too much fun at this point to take notes...

Made it to Celeste this weekend. Probably my seventh time there and I still haven't tried that tagliatelle, pecorino, shrimp and cabbage dish. I can't not order the Paccheri Vesuviana: "large tubular shaped pasta with ricotta and tomato." The fritto misto di pesce, with squid, shrimp and an entire small mullet was as light and greaseless as ever. I had the small cheese plate. Since the owner wasn't there -- tending to Bianca, perhaps -- the waitress told us we could feel free to eat the cheeses in any order . I received no description of the cheeses, but an assortment of the same high quality.

I showed up at 7:30 on a Saturday and got a table for two in 5 minutes, though the restaurant was busy, as usual. They offer about 12-14 wines by the glass, all $5. Total for two was about $60.

[Cpalms]

another nice touch with celeste's cheese plate is that they match almost every cheese with a different preserve, its a detail that i really enjoy that some places miss, the other thing I remember about the cheese plate is the price, it was over twenty bucks!!...I really want to like this place but is so damn uncomfortable inside...

[jogoode]

another nice touch with celeste's cheese plate is that they match almost every cheese with a different preserve, its a detail that i really enjoy that some places miss, the other thing I remember about the cheese plate is the price, it was over twenty bucks!!

The small plate is $10 and gives you 5 cheeses. Then there is a larger one for $20 and an enormous one for something like $35.

[Daniel]

I realize there's already a thread about Celeste, but I'd like to start another based on the amazing cheeses I tried there last night.

I've eaten at Celeste six times now and believe it offers one of the best food values on the upper West side. Great homemade pastas (try the ravioli with ricotta and spinach or the tagliatelli with sheep's milk cheese, shrimp and cabbage) for under $10 a plate.

Last night, Carmine (the owner) dropped by my table and convinced me to order a cheese tasting. Little did I know what I was in for!

After dinner, we were brought a tasting course of perhaps 15 cheeses, and I asked the waiter if Carmine would be willing to tell us a bit about them. Carmine sat down at our table and spent the next 30 minutes explaining each cheese in incredible detail. He said that he has over 50 cheeses in his inventory, and ages many of them himself in Italy. I was having too much fun at this point to take notes, so I can only offer a few impressions of my favorite cheeses as follows:

A goat cheese with a juniper and ash crust - incredibly creamy with just enough earthy bite to it.

A cheese that tasted like a French Epoisse - this was the best cheese I've ever tasted in NYC.

A goat cheese that was aged in special pits dug in the ground - Carmine went into an elaborate description of how this cheese was aged in these pits (something to do with religious holidays, clay, cement, straw, and all sorts of tradition - I wish I could remember!). Whatever these people are doing, they're doing a damn good job of it! This was a hard cheese with a texture and flavor a bit reminiscent of Ossau-Iraty to me. Fantastic flavor.

All of the cheeses were excellent and many were accompanied with homemade relishes (bitter orange gelee, quince puree, rhubarb compote, etc.) individually conceived as a complement to a particular cheese. I thought the relishes were a great addition to the cheese.

I must say I was completely unprepared for such an amazing cheese tasting. All of the cheeses were fantastic, with full flavors usually only found at the source in France and Italy. Carmine's obvious passion for fine cheese and his encyclopedic knowledge on the topic made the experience educational as well as fun.

I recommend that any serious cheese-aholics make a pilgrimmage to Celeste (Amsterdam and 85-86th) and ask Carmine to bring them the full cheese tasting menu. Just be sure to arrive early or late, as at prime time there is usually a long wait, and they do not take reservations.

Have you found out the name of that cheese that tasted like epoisse.

[Felonius]

Sorry, but I didn't write down the names of any of the cheeses. I dined at Celeste last night, but Carmine left just prior to my arrival. I didn't do another cheese tasting, since I'd rather do this when Carmine is around to make the selections.

I'll try to find out the name of the Epoisse-like cheese next time I'm there.

[slkinsey]

I'll try to find out the name of the Epoisse-like cheese next time I'm there.

I am almost positive it will turn out to be Affidélices. This is a specialty cheese made by Fromagerie Berthaut in Bourgogne, which makes some of the best Epoisses to be had. Essentially, Affidélices is an Epoisses de Bourgogne that is washed with Chablis instead of marc. It is also a little smaller. I have found excellent examples of Affidélices at Fairway on 74th street.

[jogoode]

I'll try to find out the name of the Epoisse-like cheese next time I'm there.

I am almost positive it will turn out to be Affidélices. This is a specialty cheese made by Fromagerie Berthaut in Bourgogne, which makes some of the best Epoisses to be had. Essentially, Affidélices is an Epoisses de Bourgogne that is washed with Chablis instead of marc. It is also a little smaller. I have found excellent examples of Affidélices at Fairway on 74th street.

I'd be surprised if it the owner included any cheeses that weren't Italian, but you never know. Also, I'm not sure how he'd serve a small portion of an Affidelice, since that cheese is so runny.

[slkinsey]

Well... Affidélices is the only "Epoisses-like" cheese out there of which I am aware.

Perhaps it was a good Taleggio or Robiola Lombardia (Robiola Lombardia is a small Taleggio, really)?

[Daniel]

Ate at Celeste last night as I do weekly.. Had another really great time there.. Started with chicken livers in a sage butter balsamic reduction.. A hardy portion of juicy chicken livers, and the falatta.. Had proscuitto, salami, and breasola with a couple of olives.. Carmine came by a but a sweet compote of apricot and garlic.. Great stuff..

Not a great picture of the livers.. Happened to have my camera so I decided to snap some photos in the middle eating this..

Also forgot till half way into the falatta..

Next came the pasta.. Tagliatella with shrimp, cabbage and a melted cheese..I added red pepper. The pasta is homemade and perfect.. Chewy, tender, a delight! The olive oil they use is really fruity and ties everything together... A lot of shrimp in this dish..

Next was the meat course.. This like the pasta is a half portion as we split them... This is filet mignon.. It was shaved and cooked medium rare.. It was excellent, i just cant remember the flavors on the account of the two bottles of wine and half bottle of port we drank.. But i can tell you i was dragging bread through the plate once the meat was gone..

Next we moved on to the cheese course.. One of the better priced cheese courses as well as extensive normally.. Last night many of the cheese were too close in taste and texture.. But as always the compotes and honey dips he adds to the cheese are outstanding.. But besides the cheese itself, the best part is hearing Carmine's description.. This man has a passion and love for cheese that might go down as the worlds greatest romance.. Like a beaming father he arrives with the cheese plate.. The man travels to Italy with the sole purpose of filling his suitcase with raw cheeses.. He is a real trip..

The cheese at one oclock might have been the epoisse like cheese someone was referring to..

Edited July 12, 2005 by Daniel (log)