The French Laundry 2001 - 2005

[Gifted Gourmet]

suffice it to say that we felt it was at least as good as it was on our previous visits, and if Keller and his crew are being stretched thin in any way, it isn't showing up in the food, the service, or the overall experience.

My point exactly ... nothing will be allowed to diminish Keller or his well earned legend status in any way shape or form ...

[Painting]

we felt it was at least as good as it was on our previous visits, and if Keller and his crew are being stretched thin in any way, it isn't showing up in the food, the service, or the overall experience.

i'll rest easy tonight, thank you for the head's up report :-)

Edited June 2, 2004 by Painting (log)

[jshufelt]

As soon as we found out that a friend was getting married in Santa Rosa over Memorial Day weekend, my wife and I kept our eyes on the French Laundry website, awaiting an opening date (and the opening of the reservation lines). The timing worked out, and after close to two hours of dialing on three phones, we secured reservations for lunch on May 29. Having dined here before, we were curious to see what might have changed since our previous visits.

Neither the ground floor dining room nor the upstairs dining room appear to have changed perceptibly; however, the kitchen has been broken up into multiple rooms, and the hallway leading to the pass now also leads to a small above-ground temperature-controlled wine cellar. The herb garden in the patio area is now a lawn, having moved across the street to a larger empty lot, and it appears Keller is taking advantage of the extra space to expand the garden. The kitchen is now connected by a walkway and a trellis to a new smaller building, which (if I remember correctly) houses office space and administrative functions. All of this renovation was done in the French Laundry style, so while you may notice a change in the external layout, the decor and style remains the same. Reassuring, but the main concern is this: what's happened to the food? Has the layoff affected the kitchen? Has the opening of Per Se stretched Keller too thin?

We needn't have worried.

Cornets: black sesame seed tuile with salmon tartare, red onion creme fraiche, chive

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 1999

The traditional French Laundry starter, although the presentation was slightly different. Instead of being asked to remove the cornets from a Lucite triangle, a silver conical base was placed on the table, and a rounded silver rectangular plate with three holes was centered on the cone, with a cornet in the holes at either end. We later noticed that there are custom variations of the cornet holder; if you're a party of five, for example, the plate will be circular, with five holes. The cornets themselves haven't changed, and if anything, the fish seemed fresher than I remembered, and the tuile slightly more buttery and crunchy. There is something about the combination of fresh fish, creme fraiche, and a buttery crunch, a textural interplay that really makes this work.

French Laundry Cured Shad Roe "Porridge" with Persian Lime Salt and Shaved "Bonito"

The first course is presented in a bowl with a porcelain dome. The domes are removed to reveal what at first glance looks like a deep orange-red soup; on closer glance, it's microscopically small eggs. A second server approaches with a wooden box, and opens it to reveal a block of dried tuna, allowing us to inspect it and get a good whiff. Shavings of this are then sprinkled on our shad roe, no more than a quarter teaspoon, just enough to provide the aroma. The roe itself defines salt, then ocean, instead of the other way around, with the occasional bonito smell to accentuate the dish. This was perhaps the most challenging dish of the tasting, in that liking the texture of roe and its fishy saltiness would be a prerequisite for full enjoyment of the dish. We both found it excellent.

Moulard Duck "Foie Gras au Torchon" Served with Pickled Middleton Farms Strawberries

Selbach-Oster Riesling Auslese 2002

Sauteed Moulard Duck "Foie Gras", Red Haven Peaches, Pickled Ramps and Peach "Coulis"

Lustau Manzanilla Pasada Sherry

When we ordered the nine-course tasting menu, which included the foie gras au torchon (with a supplement), our server asked if we both liked foie gras; if so, he offered to replace one of our torchons with the sauteed foie gras being offered on the five-course menu, so that we could experience both kinds. The sauteed foie was quite nice, with a crisp and almost smoky exterior, with a molten and creamy interior. The peaches provided complementary sweetness, but I was surprised at how well the ramps went with the foie; I wouldn't have guessed that a salty oniony flavor would necessarily be a good match. Nor would I have guessed that a sherry would work well, either; this pairing was suggested by our server, who was responsible for all of the other pairings throughout the meal with the exception of the red wine for the meat courses. The sherry had a sweet port-like aroma in the glass, but on the tongue, it was very dry, with a mineral and wood taste that cut through the richness of the foie and the sweetness of the peaches. The whole dish consisted of a remarkable set of contrasting flavors.

The torchon, on the other hand, is pure richness and texture. I still haven't tasted a smoother foie than Keller's torchon, and on the warm slices of brioche (which appeared every few minutes at our table, like clockwork), it's heaven. The pickled strawberries were the essence of strawberry, and the riesling was sweet and syrupy. The Brittany sea salt and the balsamic vinegar dots on the opposite side of the plate are of course a nice touch, but really, a smear of torchon on the brioche is all that is needed.

Somewhere around this point in the meal, bread service happened. Two kinds of butter, along with a few kinds of bread; slices of ciabatta, sourdough, and walnut/olive bread, along with crusty french sweet rolls.

Crispy Skin Filet of Japanese "Suzuki", Roasted Big Island Hearts of Palm, "Edamame" Beans, Radish Salad and a "Wasabi-Yuzu" Emulsion

Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu "Les Chaillets" 2001

If you're like me, when you read this item on the menu, you see "radish" and "wasabi" and think your sinuses may be in for a workout. In fact, this is a mild, mild dish. The fish is prepared perfectly, with a just-crispy skin and tender flesh, topped with a microscopically thin julienne of radish (which I didn't identify at first until I glanced at the menu again and put two and two together). I'd be willing to bet that the soybeans were blanched in a large pot of salty water, based on the green color, and the tender salty bite. The emulsion was so mild as to provide almost no flavor, just some creamy texture to offset the fish. I would have actually liked a bit more savory flavor, a bit more spice in the seasoning. This was probably the least interesting dish of the meal. The Condrieu had a pleasing floral and ever-so-slightly sweet aroma, and as with the sherry, the aroma in no way prepares you for the taste, which was mineral, crisp, and clean, and a perfect complement for fish.

"Caesar Salad": Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Roasted Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, "Confit" of Sweet Garlic, Parmesan "Croutons" and "Bottarga" Emulsion

Of course, it's all about the lobster tail, a near-spherical chunk of meat topped with a paper-thin crisp of Parmigiano Reggiano. I find myself conflicted with this dish. The tail has the sweet taste of lobster that you want every lobster to have, the flavor is so, so good. But the texture is chewy, which is a disappointment when I recall the first lobster dish I had here a few years ago, which combined that perfect lobster flavor with meltingly tender flesh and a saffron vanilla sauce you never want to be without again. That was probably one of the best two or three dishes of my life, so by contrast, this otherwise excellent lobster seems somewhat average. The bottarga was grated over the plate at tableside, and the roasted romaine tasted surprisingly like fresh baby spinach.

Breast of Wolfe Ranch White Quail "Farcie a la Mousse de Truffe" with Braised Heirloom Beets and Perigord Truffles

Marcassin Estate Pinot Noir 1999

The first of two standout meat courses, the quail skin is perfectly and evenly browned, and just crispy enough. Cutting through the skin, you reach tender quail meat, and a white stuffing flecked with truffles. Savory, delicious, and with the wine, very satisfying. The beets provide a little bit of fruity sweetness, but it's all about the bird and the stuffing.

My credit card and I succumbed to the siren song of the cult wine. But it's a beauty, with berries, cinnamon, and clove in the nose, and a lingering finish to match. It was served in monstrous Riedel Burgundy glasses, nearly large enough to insert my head. Someday I need to splurge and get a couple of these, it's nice just to watch wine swirl around in one of these glasses, let alone drink it.

Herb Roasted Saddle of Elysian Fields Farm Lamb, Wild Asparagus, Cepe Mushrooms and Sauce "Fines Herbes"

As good as the quail was, the lamb is better. By French Laundry standards, the portion for this dish was quite large, with three nice slices of pink lamb draped over tiny asparagus stalks, flanked by meaty mushrooms in a pool of sauce that you can tell will be wonderful before ever swiping a bite through it. And it is. We linger over this dish a while, taking our time with the lamb and the sauce and the wine. In some ways, this dish is less composed than others in the sequence; no delicate assemblies of ingredients, no meticulous arrangements of garnishes. But perhaps that's simply because more composition is unnecessary here.

"Pecorino Con Foglie De Noci" Green Asparagus Salad, Toasted Pine Nuts and Thirty-Year-Old Balsamic Vinegar

Three triangular slices of pecorino romano rest on a bed of asparagus tips, pine nuts, and a few tiny dices of tomato. A server presents a bottle of 30-year old balsamic for our inspection, fills half of a tablespoon with it, and then gently tilts the spoon to dot the plate with the vinegar. I'm personally not a wild fan of cheese courses, but I thought this one was more balanced and thought out than previous ones we've had here. I'm thinking in particular of a goat cheese and heirloom beet course, where I thought I could have produced a similar course at home in short order that would have tasted essentially the same. Decidedly not what I want to be thinking during this kind of meal.

Passion Fruit Sorbet, Coconut "Gelee" and Roasted Maui Pineapple

I shudder when I recall this dish, it was that good. The sorbet was creamy and rich, and the passion fruit flavor was taken down just enough so that it didn't dominate the dish, and blended with the sugary pineapple bits and the pool of almost-foamy coconut cream at the bottom of the bowl. The flavors of the three components were integrated perfectly here; I can't see how the dessert could be improved.

Tart of Valrhona Manjari Chocolate with Burnt Sugar Ice Cream and "Fleur de Sel"

Chambers Rosewood Muscat NV

Chateau de Jau Banyuls Rimage 2001

I suppose I'm not a true chocoholic; as much as I like it, I'm ultimately happier and more interested when the dessert menu has non-chocolate non-vanilla items on it. But this was a really nice dessert. The burnt sugar ice cream was dulce de leche, caramelized just a little further to bring out a hint of smokiness, and the salt/chocolate combination was an eye-opener. It makes sense in retrospect; you use salt to bring out flavors, so why not use it in a dessert to achieve the same effect? Still, it was a surprise. Our server recommended two different wine pairings for this dish, so we each tried one of the recommendations and shared the glasses. The Banyuls was tart and grapey, and the tartness paired well with what was not a wildly sweet dessert, but we both strongly preferred the muscat, which was syrupy, golden goodness, even though intellectually it may not have been as good a match.

"Mignardises"

From memory: two pates de fruit, one mango, one raspberry; a lemon tartlet; a caramel macaroon the size of a nickel; a chocolate "tiramisu" with a sprinkle of 24k gold leaf; two paper thin discs of Valrhona chocolate sprinkled with toasted almonds; and two apple/ginger shortbread wafers.

From start to finish, the meal lasted almost five hours. My wife and I both thought that while we've had individual dishes here in the past that reached higher peaks (the aforementioned lobster with saffron-vanilla sauce, and a dessert study in pineapple), this was the most consistent meal in terms of quality from dish to dish, with no major letdowns, and solid wine pairings throughout.

According to our server, the restaurant reopened on May 18. Even allowing for the obvious technical competence of the kitchen staff, I find it remarkable that it could resume producing meals at this level less than two weeks after opening. Time to start saving up for the next visit...

[Painting]

Having secured Aug 2nd res and listening to all these great reviews since the re-opening, I'm delighted to here that i'm a worry-wart and I'm ready to chow down :-)

[rdailey]

jshufelt- Great post. Definately helps get me pumped up for my dinner there next week.

I notice that you did not mention any canapes (ie gourgeres, canape soups, etc) or extra desserts (pot de cremes, creme brulees, etc) as they have regularly offered in the past.

I have not been there for lunch before, is this common?

[jshufelt]

I notice that you did not mention any canapes (ie gourgeres, canape soups, etc) or extra desserts (pot de cremes, creme brulees, etc) as they have regularly offered in the past.

I have not been there for lunch before, is this common?

No canapes or extra desserts that I recall. Previously, we've been there twice for dinner and once for lunch, and on those visits, extra desserts were supplied each time. No clue what may or may not trigger the extras, or whether there has been a policy change since the closing.

The menu format is the same at lunch as it is for dinner, although it does change between lunch and dinner each day.

[Really Nice!]

Jshufelt, excellent review! Thank you.

If you don't mind my asking, what is the price of the nine-course tasting menu? I've been able to get to The French Laundry once a year since 2000, and each year the menu is $10 higher than the year before (which I do not mind). Based on that I'm projecting that it's now $145. But, with the expense of renovations, closing it down for four and a half months, and losing income due to the unexpected closing of Per Se for a month, I'm wondering if it's more.

Thanks again for the review.

[jshufelt]

If you don't mind my asking, what is the price of the nine-course tasting menu?

It was $150 for the nine-course menu. The foie gras courses I described each required a $20 supplement. A gratuity of 18% is charged.

And, of course, none of that includes wine...

[chaud-froid]

Last year the tasting menu was $135. It will be interesting to see if there is a point where the increasing price causes demand for reservations to fall. We don't appear to be there yet at $150 (plus $20 foie gras suppliment plus tax plus 18% = $215 PLUS wine [and tax and tip]).

[Painting]

$150 (plus $20 foie gras suppliment plus tax plus 18% = $215 PLUS wine [and tip]).

I really dislike giving an additional tip over above a manditory gratuity, if they are going to force me to pay a tip, then screw them I say.

[IrishCream]

$150 (plus $20 foie gras suppliment plus tax plus 18% = $215 PLUS wine [and tip]).

I really dislike giving an additional tip over above a manditory gratuity, if they are going to force me to pay a tip, then screw them I say.

What is your reasoning, Painting? FL has a very high staff to customer ratio. If you think of it in practical terms, 4 or 5 staff members see to each table plus a sommelier (many people tip the sommelier separately but some don't ). So let's say the 18% has to be divided between 4-6 staff members. For a two top, the total bill may be as little as $500. So the included gratuity is less than $100. Divide that out and remember that FL does not turn many tables...many customers spend 4 or more hours enjoying their meal. If every customer stuck to the 18%, I'd bet the FOH staff would make less tips per hour than a server at a place like the Black Angus. Yet they are expected to be perfect.

[Painting]

What is your reasoning, Painting?

I feel a tip is something that is a gift from me to the person(s) that offered service. And as a gift, I tend to give readily but when I see it being turned into another venue to pay the stuff a wage, then I get huffy about it.

I normally tip 20-30% because that's what I feel is apporiate in my situation because it's my way of saying thank you. If the business is going to force me into saying thank you, then screw them and they can have their 18% and go to hell.

As for the employees, they make a wage, I don't feel obligated to pay them a secondary paycheck. Like i said it should be thank you gift not a forced contract tax or fee.

And to really think about it, I rather have the money go to the underpaid mexican dishwashers in the back, they are the ones more deserving an additional income.

As to get back on track with TFL, I have no problem paying the 18% tax but they shouldn't expect me to tip an additional 20-30%, it's wrong IMHO.

PS. I'm very impressed that you learned to use the computer at your ripe old age of 99 :-)

Edited June 4, 2004 by Painting (log)

[chaud-froid]

$150 (plus $20 foie gras suppliment plus tax plus 18% = $215 PLUS wine [and tip]).

I really dislike giving an additional tip over above a manditory gratuity, if they are going to force me to pay a tip, then screw them I say.

I was referring to the additional tax and tip on wine, not a tip beyond the 18%.

It seems to me that a $90 tip on a dinner for two (tasting menu, foie gras option, and a single bottle of wine at $110) is sufficient.

Edited June 4, 2004 by chaud-froid (log)

[BouchonIntern]

I wondering here...about the grat. and tip. Granted I was just working at Bouchon and what I know about TFL is what I heard from the staff that came to work at Bouchon during the TFL closing.....I am told that leaving a tip there is actually forbidden. The waitstaff doesn't even get the 18% grat. that is just to help pay the $27/hour that they make. correct me if I'm wrong. But I think thats how it works there.

[jschyun]

Whoah, I thought people worked at FL for free because they were so happy to work for TK. At least that's what I heard.

[Hest88]

Do the waiters really make that much an hour? Not that they don't deserve it, but that's certainly a far cry from the below minimum wage salary that most waiters get.

[Really Nice!]

I am told that leaving a tip there is actually forbidden.

The waitstaff doesn't even get the 18% grat. that is just to help pay the $27/hour that they make. correct me if I'm wrong.

I leave an additional $60 to $100 every time I dine there.

I find it hard to believe they're paid $27 an hour given that the staff (waitstaff included) spends more time there when the restaurant is closed than when it's open.

[BouchonIntern]

Like I said, I really don't know if it is true, and don't wish to start any rumors given the chance that I might want to work over at TFL in the future. It was just something I overheard from one of the staff.

[rose and antojitos]

Do the waiters really make that much an hour? Not that they don't deserve it, but that's certainly a far cry from the below minimum wage salary that most waiters get.

But most waiters make tips in addition to an hourly pay.

[rdailey]

I had the good fortune to dine at French Laundry last Friday. I had offered to take my parents, who were going for the first time. There were three menus offered, the 9-course chef's tasting ($150), the 9-course vegetarian($125), and the 5-course dinner($135).We had a brutally late 9pm seating, so we arrived about 20 minutes early to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine in the garden. I saw many changes to the grounds including the removal of the huge tree that hung over the entry patio, the small planted area near the door was also gone. A new building housing offices and wine storage has taken up some of the garden as well. It also seemed that they had new chairs for diners that were much more comfortable than their old ones.

We were offered gruyere gorgeres while we waited. Unfortunately, at 9:10pm the hostess said, "We apologize for the delay in seating, some of the earlier seatings are having a VERY good time." I assumed this was code for, the guests at your table are taking too long and you're going to have to wait until they leave. She offered us complimentary refills. Soon 9:30pm approached and we began to get irritated, it was getting really late to sit down to a 3 hour meal, but thankfully we were finally seated.

My parents do not have the appetite they once did and were only ordering the five course, so I did as well. Although, it became apparent that due to the delay we were to receive several extra amuse-bouche. I saw a table next to us order the 5-course dinner and not get anything "extra" but the traditional salmon cone.

Also of note, Chef Keller was present and I watched him delicately slice a duck breast. It was amazing to see that he was doing a whole lot more than just overseeing, but actually was really cooking.

Here is my dinner as I recall it:

"Bacon and Eggs"

This was the first "extra" amuse we received immediately after being seated. A tablespoon with a poached quail's egg in beurre monte and topped with brunoise and bits of Hobbs bacon. A delicious and creative first bite and a Keller classic that I had not had before.

Salmon Cornet

Another classic that is always delicious. My father who does not care much for salmon loved and wanted 10 more.

???

Apologies, unfortunately I do not recall exact ingredients of the next amuse. What I can remember was that it was a thinly sliced clam place atop a yuzu vinagrette (it resembled more of a foam) and topped with a delicate daikon and cucumber relish.

Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras with Santa Rosa Plum Sauce and Pickled Ramps

Of all of the foie gras I have had, I can easily say that no one does it better than the French Laundry.

Pan Roasted "Noisettes de Lotte" with Butter Braised "La Ratte" Potatoes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, and Lobster Vinagrette

This was a very rich and earthy fish dish that complimented the monkfish perfectly. There was beautiful lobster roe powder sprinkled over the top. The fish was cooked exactly right. This was only one of two choices for the fish course.

Breast of Liberty Valley Duck with Poached Bing Cherries, Fennel Marmelade, and Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras

I know I had the foie gras for my first course - I blew it. My parents had ordered the lamb, which was the only other meat choice and I wanted to do something different. I just didn't see that the it came with the foie... but I really didn't care at that point. The waiter even joked with me, "You can never have enough foie gras!" Then went on to explain that the restaurant goes through 60-70 pounds of it each week. It was great with the poached cherries, but the breast was a bit chewy and disappointing.

White Peach Sorbet with Candied Kumquats and Lemon Verbena Soup

This was another "extra" our table received and thank goodness! (In the past I have not received a sorbet course when having the 5-course dinner.) FL has always served the best sorbet courses and this was no exception. After the heaviness and richness of the previous courses, it was clean, refreshing and perfectly balanced between sweet, sour and acidic.

Andante Dairy "Crottin" with Heirloom Beet and Perigord Truffle Marmelade

A mild goat cheese that was heated placed atop the beets and a small micro cilantro salad. Tasty, but lacked something. My father was fortunate to order another cheese course worth noting - Roquefort placed on top of a Vidalia Onion custard and served with Medjool dates and a 50-year old sherry vinagrette. This was incredible and my father's favorite course. The dates exploded with flavor.

"Coffee and Doughnuts", Praline "Creamsicle", and "Strawberry Shortcake"

We shared all three offered desserts, which are Keller classics. The nostalgia factor is what keeps the coffee and doughnuts on the menu. The cookbook really seems to have gotten the classics stuck on the menu. The Creamsicle was a praline ice cream coated with chocolate, served with candied hazelnuts, hazelnut dacquiose, and a warm honey and cinnamon soup poured around everything. The strawberry shortcake was an unusual composition that included a creme fraiche cake, marscarpone ice cream, strawberry gelee and a sauce of honey and 15 year old balsamic.

Mignardises

A vanilla creme brulee for mom and maple syrup panna cotta for the men. Well prepared but nothing exciting about these. The macaroons have gotten bigger, but are still as scrumptious. There was also a small plate of forgettable chocolates, jellies, and wafers. However our waiter offered us hand made truffles, that were much better than the petit fours, made with peanut butter, caramel and Earl Grey tea.

Overall a fantastic dinner that included relaxed, well paced, first class service that went out of its way to please. Our young wine steward was enthusiastic and paired an amazing auslese with the foie gras. A decadent 2000 Musigny was poured for the fish and meat courses. However, twice our food was at the table prior to our wine and we had to nudge the wine staff to get the wine to the table quicker. This complaint coupled with the lengthy wait for the table, I'm sure would be considered major flaws by more decerning diners. However, I feel the other elements of the meal more than made up for the faults.

There were fewer choices on the dinner menu than I have seen in the past and I suspect this is related to the lengthy closure of the restaurant.

Let me know if I can add anything further...

Edited for spelling...

Edited June 14, 2004 by rdailey (log)

[tanabutler]

I had the good fortune to dine at French Laundry last Friday. I had offered to take my parents, who were going for the first time. There were three menus offered, the 9-course chef's tasting ($150), the 9-course vegetarian($125), and the 5-course dinner($135).We had a brutally late 9pm seating, so we arrived about 20 minutes early to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine in the garden. I saw many changes to the grounds including the removal of the huge tree that hung over the entry patio, the small planted area near the door was also gone. A new building housing offices and wine storage has taken up some of the garden as well. It also seemed that they had new chairs for diners that were much more comfortable than their old ones.

We were offered gruyere gorgeres while we waited. Unfortunately, at 9:10pm the hostess said, "We apologize for the delay in seating, some of the earlier seatings are having a VERY good time." I assumed this was code for, the guests at your table are taking too long and you're going to have to wait until they leave. She offered us complimentary refills. Soon 9:30pm approached and we began to get irritated, it was getting really late to sit down to a 3 hour meal, but thankfully we were finally seated.

My parents do not have the appetite they once did and were only ordering the five course, so I did as well. Although, it became apparent that due to the delay we were to receive several extra amuse-bouche. I saw a table next to us order the 5-course dinner and not get anything "extra" but the traditional salmon cone.

Also of note, Chef Keller was present and I watched him delicately slice a duck breast. It was amazing to see that he was doing a whole lot more than just overseeing, but actually was really cooking.

Here is my dinner as I recall it:

"Bacon and Eggs"

This was the first "extra" amuse we received immediately after being seated. A tablespoon with a poached quail's egg in beurre monte and topped with brunoise and bits of Hobbs bacon. A delicious and creative first bite and a Keller classic that I had not had before.

Salmon Cornet

Another classic that is always delicious. My father who does not care much for salmon loved and wanted 10 more.

???

Apologies, unfortunately I do not recall exact ingredients of the next amuse. What I can remember was that it was a thinly sliced clam place atop a yuzu vinagrette (it resembled more of a foam) and topped with a delicate daikon and cucumber relish.

Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras with Santa Rosa Plum Sauce and Pickled Ramps

Of all of the foie gras I have had, I can easily say that no one does it better than the French Laundry.

Pan Roasted "Noisettes de Lotte" with Butter Braised "La Ratte" Potatoes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, and Lobster Vinagrette

This was a very rich and earthy fish dish that complimented the monkfish perfectly. There was beautiful lobster roe powder sprinkled over the top. The fish was cooked exactly right. This was only one of two choices for the fish course.

Breast of Liberty Valley Duck with Poached Bing Cherries, Fennel Marmelade, and Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras

I know I had the foie gras for my first course - I blew it. My parents had ordered the lamb, which was the only other meat choice and I wanted to do something different. I just didn't see that the it came with the foie... but I really didn't care at that point. The waiter even joked with me, "You can never have enough foie gras!" Then went on to explain that the restaurant goes through 60-70 pounds of it each week. It was great with the poached cherries, but the breast was a bit chewy and disappointing.

White Peach Sorbet with Candied Kumquats and Lemon Verbena Soup

This was another "extra" our table received and thank goodness! (In the past I have not received a sorbet course when having the 5-course dinner.) FL has always served the best sorbet courses and this was no exception. After the heaviness and richness of the previous courses, it was clean, refreshing and perfectly balanced between sweet, sour and acidic.

Andante Dairy "Crottin" with Heirloom Beet and Perigord Truffle Marmelade

A mild goat cheese that was heated placed atop the beets and a small micro cilantro salad. Tasty, but lacked something. My father was fortunate to order another cheese course worth noting - Roquefort placed on top of a Vidalia Onion custard and served with Medjool dates and a 50-year old sherry vinagrette. This was incredible and my father's favorite course. The dates exploded with flavor.

"Coffee and Doughnuts", Praline "Creamsicle", and "Strawberry Shortcake"

We shared all three offered desserts, which are Keller classics. The nostalgia factor is what keeps the coffee and doughnuts on the menu. The cookbook really seems to have gotten the classics stuck on the menu. The Creamsicle was a praline ice cream coated with chocolate, served with candied hazelnuts, hazelnut dacquiose, and a warm honey and cinnamon soup poured around everything. The strawberry shortcake was an unusual composition that included a creme fraiche cake, marscarpone ice cream, strawberry gelee and a sauce of honey and 15 year old balsamic.

Mignardises

A vanilla creme brulee for mom and maple syrup panna cotta for the men. Well prepared but nothing exciting about these. The macaroons have gotten bigger, but are still as scrumptious. There was also a small plate of forgettable chocolates, jellies, and wafers. However our waiter offered us hand made truffles, that were much better than the petit fours, made with peanut butter, caramel and Earl Grey tea.

Overall a fantastic dinner that included relaxed, well paced, first class service that went out of its way to please. Our young wine steward was enthusiastic and paired an amazing auslese with the foie gras. A decadent 2000 Musigny was poured for the fish and meat courses. However, twice our food was at the table prior to our wine and we had to nudge the wine staff to get the wine to the table quicker. This complaint coupled with the lengthy wait for the table, I'm sure would be considered major flaws by more decerning diners. However, I feel the other elements of the meal more than made up for the faults.

There were fewer choices on the dinner menu than I have seen in the past and I suspect this is related to the lengthy closure of the restaurant.

Let me know if I can add anything further...

Edited for spelling...

I read your post, rdaily, and you report on seeing Chef Keller in his kitchen.

My brain might kick out gospel or something, but instead this sweet line from 'Pippa Passes':

"God's in His Heaven/All's right with the world."

Lovely post. You have enjoyed great privilege, and blessings.

[rdailey]

Thanks.

It was quite an honor to finally see him "in action". Although I must say he looked tired. It may have just been a long day, but I can imagine the struggles with the Per Se fire and getting FL reopened has aged him quite a bit... On the other hand, Laura Cunningham (the GM) looked beautiful and sophisticated as always.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Rdaily, did you have any wine pairings?

[rdailey]

My parents are not big drinkers and I was going to have to drive back to Marin at 1am so I was trying to drink lightly. As well, we had 2 glasses of Schramsberg sparkling wine before being seated. Unlike what I have heard about Per Se, FL still does not offer half-glass tasting pours. Since I did not have the chef's tasting menu, I did not find out if they had a pre selected wine pairing for it. As on previous visits, our sommelier quickly offered a special wine pairing with the foie gras course. He suggested the 2001 Selbach-Oster Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr by the glass. Its delicate sweetness stood up nicely with the foie gras. I told our sommelier about the incredible 1999 Bonnacorsi Pinot Noir that they had poured for me on a previous visit. Unlike many Cal Pinots the Bonnacorsi is much closer to a mineral-tasting Burgundy. Unfortuntely they didn't have any more Bonnacorsi, so instead offered a 2000 Chambolle-Musingy from a producer which I can't recall. I plan to call FL later this week to see which one it was. The sommelier offered more suggestions with our cheese and dessert courses, but we had had enough for the evening. I have another reservation in a few weeks so the sommelier said that he would put together some special pairings for the menu that evening which I am looking forward to seeing what that means...

Edited June 14, 2004 by rdailey (log)

[rdailey]

One other item of note, my mother had a glass of the Merus Cab Franc that is being bottled specifically for FL and PerSe. It was a heavy fruit bomb, that seemed much too young, but would be lovely in time. I thought I overheard the waiter say that Keller had a stake in the vineyards as well. Apparently the bottles can be purchased at the restaurant for $140. It was interesting and I plan to follow up...