Momofuku Ssäm Bar (2007– )

[spaetzle_maker]

I don't think I've mentioned it here, but there has also been an absolutely terrific lamb loin from Elysian Fields Farm that is occasionally available as a special. The accompaniments may vary - when I had it, it was with the same accompaniments as the fried lamb belly. The meat is so tasty - the lamb loin is not to be missed.

[MikeTMD]

I understand the whole pork butt at Ssam is braised - is there any crispy skin on any crunchy component in it? Some pictures make it look like the final product is flash-fried before serving - is that so?

[kathryn]

They slow cook it overnight, then put it into the oven to finish. The crispy skin is the best part of the Bo Ssam IMHO. Mmmmm, skin.

[alwang]

They slow cook it overnight, then put it into the oven to finish. The crispy skin is the best part of the Bo Ssam IMHO. Mmmmm, skin.

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I was under the impression that the slow cook was also done in the oven? At least that's the recipe David Chang gave to New York mag a couple of years back.

[Fat Guy]

My guess is that it's braised in the oven at a low temperature, rested/refrigerated, then finished at a higher temperature (perhaps with convection).

[alwang]

To clarify, the process Chang recommended in New York mag (which of course is not necessarily what's done in the restaurant) was to slow roast the pork butt in an oven, with periodic basting. The fattiness of the cut should keep it moist. If Ssam Bar has a steam oven installed, like a Rational or CVap, that would seem like an even more logical way to go.

[Fat Guy]

Patiently waiting the Tristar strawberry shortcake, though. Soon, soon.

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It's here and it's as good as we remember.

Also the local tomatoes are coming in now, so there's a fine tomato salad (Eckerton Hill Farms) with cubes of fried tofu -- though it was overdressed.

The pork shoulder steak from Bev Eggleston's Crossabaw (a cross between the Ossabaw breed and something else) pigs is well worth a try, and it's huge -- I recommend it for sharing, as I lacked the motivation to finish it myself and that's saying something.

The hanger steak ssam is up to $28, however it now specifies Brandt Beef. I haven't tried it in this version. The only ssam items currently on the dinner menu are hanger steak and bo.

I had a better service experience than I've had in recent memory, perhaps because Cory was on the scene.

Also Hitachino seems to be gone from the beer list.

[Mazzer]

I had a better service experience than I've had in recent memory, perhaps because Cory was on the scene.

Also Hitachino seems to be gone from the beer list.

The service has been improving steadily, I've noticed.

The Hitachino has been gone for some time. I haven't found anything else on the beer menu that I'm nearly as fond of, so I've been sticking to sake or wine. Can anyone recommend standouts?

[Fat Guy]

I like the Allagash white a lot but the Hitachino red really hit the spot with some of that food.

[spaetzle_maker]

Patiently waiting the Tristar strawberry shortcake, though. Soon, soon.

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It's here and it's as good as we remember.

Tristar strawberry shortcake! It's where it all began...

I think a Momofuku Shortcake Bar would be cool

[Nathan]

I'd already mentioned this up the thread a couple months ago, but it's now confirmed. Ssam Bar is expanding.

http://eater.com/archives/2008/07/eaterwir...e_next_door.php

[LPShanet]

Ssam regulars, I need a little help with some grammatical/syntactical strangeness on Ssam's phone message. Called there last night to find out whether they were still serving. I listened to their message, and after the statement of hours, they said the following:

"We only serve beverages after midnight Monday - Wednesday".

Since the syntax could be interpreted in one of two ways, I didn't know whether that meant:

1. There was no food after midnight on those days, only drinks.

or

2. They don't serve beverages (alcoholic presumably) late nights, except those days.

Anyone with insight to what Ssam serves on what days please advise. A full statement of what types of menus are available when might be apropos, as Ssam has changed this more than a few times.

[kathryn]

On non-weekend nights, they serve an abbreviated menu of food but still offer drinks and also focus on the 50 under $50 wine list.

From their site:

ssam bar hours of operation

lunch 12 pm - 4 pm

dinner 5 pm - 2 am*

*sun - wed from 12am - 2am we offer

special wine, beer and sake selections

with an abbreviated food menu and

periodic special events (details here).

Older photo of the late night menu:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/donbert/2328771421/

The lunch and dinner menus are on the web site.

Edited July 31, 2008 by kathryn (log)

[Fat Guy]

Just to be clear, there is a contradiction between the information on the phone message and the information on the website. The website notes that an abbreviated late-night menu is available, but the phone message indicates beverages only. An actual scouting report from a Sun-Wed after midnight, or at least an answer from a manager at Ssam Bar, would be needed to resolve the ambiguity.

In other news, there's now a special on offer: stone bass. More commonly known as wreckfish (though stone bass sounds more appetizing), this is my new favorite fish. Think swordfish but with the succulence and moistness of cod. The cut they're preparing is about the size and shape of a filet mignon, served over corn and a bunch of other stuff. A new (to me) menu item is also excellent: shrimp and watermelon. A generous helping of raw Maine sweet shrimp in a watermelon broth with some chunks of watermelon, plus the little chickpea-flour pellets that I'm pretty sure used to be with the squid. The whole dish has an Indian-ish flavor profile.

[kathryn]

I've been there, lingering post-dinner, when it's late enough that they start switching out the regular dinner menu with the late night food and drink menu (the one with the popcorn on it), is that enough confirmation? It was a Sunday night, a few months ago.

The wreckfish preparation is pretty similar to the old Brook Trout prep (corn, Benton's bacon, nori and chanterelle mushrooms).

The shrimp and watermelon salad is nice and I'm please to see that they are using both red and yellow watermelons.

[Fat Guy]

It was a Sunday night, a few months ago.

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I suppose it's possible that they've changed the schedule for summer. I just called the voicemail and it still says beverages only. With most restaurants, I'd say voicemail is far more reliable than anything on a website, but the Momofukus are atypical. It's possible the voicemail message is very old. Who knows? I also remember a while back when they simply started closing at midnight. So they've gone through phases. I was there just the other night but hadn't read the latest posts on this topic so I didn't know to ask Cory.

[Nathan]

in reference to the hours discussion above...posted outside it says open til 2 a.m. but kitchen closes at midnight.

anyway, like the watermelon/shrimp soup thingy.

this iteration of the Sichuan beef tendon works well.

a tomato/eggplant (not really noticeable)/anchovy tartine was fine.

I like the general prep of the stone bass dish (now on the printed menu) and it uses excellent ingredients but the fish itself was overcooked and dry.

but the real problem with the dish is the price. $28. I ate at Esca on Saturday night and when you're charging Esca-like prices for a main it's fair to ask whether you shouldn't also be delivering Esca-like perfection, service and accoutrements.

[Jesikka]

in reference to the hours discussion above...posted outside it says open til 2 a.m. but kitchen closes at midnight.

anyway, like the watermelon/shrimp soup thingy.

this iteration of the Sichuan beef tendon works well.

a tomato/eggplant (not really noticeable)/anchovy tartine was fine.

I like the general prep of the stone bass dish (now on the printed menu) and it uses excellent ingredients but the fish itself was overcooked and dry.

but the real problem with the dish is the price.  $28.  I ate at Esca on Saturday night and when you're charging Esca-like prices for a main it's fair to ask whether you shouldn't also be delivering Esca-like perfection, service and accoutrements.

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They definitely serve food past midnight. None of it requires cooking, which would explain why the kitchen can be "closed". I assume they have it listed that way because they want to keep people from begging the kitchen to give them stuff not on the late night menu when it is after midnight (such as I have done in the past).

I think you may just not be familiar with the texture of stone bass, which to my palate is not particularly enjoyable. The swordfish comparison is apt. Additionally, I don't find Esca to be a hugely consistent experience in terms of perfection or service whatsoever. Not sure what you mean about accoutrements. I think $28 is a reasonable price for a very large piece of fish with excellent ingredients. While your particular piece may have been over cooked, that doesn't make it poor value. You should have sent it back if it was incorrectly made.

[Nathan]

it was overcooked all the way through and it wasn't a large piece of fish at all.

maybe they give you extra large filets.

I find all of the Momofukus to be very fairly priced over all. but that particular dish is charged at the same rate as restaurants with similar quality ingredients which also happen to provide silverware, seats and tablecloths.

[Jesikka]

it was overcooked all the way through and it wasn't a large piece of fish at all. 

maybe they give you extra large filets.

I find all of the Momofukus to be very fairly priced over all.  but that particular dish is charged at the same rate as restaurants with similar quality ingredients  which also happen to provide silverware, seats and tablecloths.

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Did you consider asking for a fork and knife or sending an overcooked piece of fish back? While obviously they shouldn't send out something that is overcooked, you can't really expect them to do anything about it if you don't let them know. Our stone bass portion was certainly not small by any means. It's not my favorite dish I've had there, but I don't think there's anything wrong with the value- I simply happen not to love that protein form.

Maybe they give you extra small filets.

[Nathan]

I don't like the current version of the branzino dish as much as the audacious one with the charred leeks...but it's still very good.

the current lamb loin/belly dish is the best yet.

Edited August 18, 2008 by Nathan (log)

[Fat Guy]

I haven't seen the pieces everybody got, but the piece of fish I got was basically a cube from a very thick part of he fillet. So it was only a couple of inches on a side but because it was a cube it probably amounted to quite a bit.

[Jesikka]

I don't like the current version of the branzino dish as the audacious one with the charred leeks...but it's still very good. 

the current lamb loin/belly dish is the best yet.

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What does "the audacious one with the charred leeks" mean?

[spaetzle_maker]

I don't like the current version of the branzino dish as the audacious one with the charred leeks...but it's still very good. 

the current lamb loin/belly dish is the best yet.

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What does "the audacious one with the charred leeks" mean?

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That must be how the branzino introduced himself. Did he recite the specials as well?

Edited August 18, 2008 by spaetzle_maker (log)

[Nathan]

I don't like the current version of the branzino dish as the audacious one with the charred leeks...but it's still very good. 

the current lamb loin/belly dish is the best yet.

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What does "the audacious one with the charred leeks" mean?

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big. bodacious, bold, salty, olive oil-slicked robust flavors.