Bastide

[lizziee]

Bastide is a restaurant "in the making" as it has only been open for three days. We were there for dinner on their 4th night being open to the public.

The décor is serene with brown linen monogrammed tablecloths, monogrammed silver, parquet and stone floors, wicker armchairs and designer Andree Putman's Tressage dinnerware. Set in a space that once was a small house, there are three small dining areas separated by white glass bead strands - a somewhat jarring note in this surrounding. There is a lovely outside patio for al fresco dining.

The servers are dressed Ralph Lauren prep school style with starched shirts, ties, but no jackets. Bussers have these same starched shirts with butcher aprons to identify them as bussers. The sommelier and Maitre d' are dressed formally and service is definitely attempting to be fine dining. Other than us, patrons were dressed casually with no ties and no jackets. Herein lies some of the problem with Bastide; you can't decide if the style is California casual or fine dining haute cuisine. It seems as if the restaurant hasn't found its identity just yet. One reason for this, I think, is the tension between the owner, Joe Pytka, the GM Donnato and the Chef, Giraud. It is as if there are too many chiefs and not enough Indians.

A word about the chef, Alain Giraud. Born in Paris to a family of chef-restaurateurs, Giraud moved to Nimes as a child where his father had a restaurant, La Sartan. He received his degree in culinary arts at Nimes Culinary School and then spent a total of eight years at three of France's two-star Michelin restaurants - L'Ermitage Meissonnier in Avignon, Hotel de Crillon and Le Grand Vefour. He then joined Michel Richard at Citrus Restaurant as chef de cuisine. When Michel closed Citrus to move to Washington, Giraud created Lavande in the Lowe's hotel.

Giraud tends to recreate meals from his childhood memories of Nimes; he is definitely tied to his South of France background and his cuisine reflects French Provencal fare using California ingredients.

There are three prix-fixe menus: a traditional five-course menu for $60, a five-course fig menu for $70, and the seven-course Bastide menu for $90. A vegetarian menu is available upon request.

We decided on the seven course tasting menu.

With our champagne aperitif (be careful when ordering this as Billecart Salmon was $28.00 per glass!), we were served an amuse of potato/cod brandade with toasted brioche. This was fair, under- seasoned and bland.

1st course - Lobster Salad with Vegetable Nicoise. This was a spectacular dish of cold poached lobster with nicoise olives, tomatoes, haricot vertes with chive/basil oil with a "kick" coming from the Spanish pepper (this is a guess as I wasn't getting full descriptions from our server)

2nd course - Loup de Mer (Bass) with asparagus, chanterelles and tomato confit. The sauce was a rich meat reduction that highlighted the "meatiness" of the fish.

3rd course - Foie Gras sautéed with fig Banyuls on a toasted brioche round. The Foie Gras was overcooked and the brioche very yeasty tasting.

4th course - a palate cleanser of Grapefruit sorbet in Noilly Prat. To be honest, I wasn't even half full at this time and didn't need a cleanser or break in the action.

A word on the service. It was fast - 5 minutes after finishing one dish, we were presented with the next. They are doing a very soft opening and as there were only 22 covers last night, we were outnumbered 3 to 1 by the service staff.

5th course - Rack of lamb with Panisse, garlic Confit and a Black Olive sauce. Panisse is a thick fried pancake of chickpea flour that Alain cuts to resemble French fries. The sauce was rich, not overwhelming, but a definite nod to the South of France.

6th course - A composed cheese plate of 3 types of cheese - my note-taking was waning at this point and I didn't write down what kind.

7th course - Your choice of dessert. My son had the chocolate trio and ate every bite. I had the Vacherin - a signature dessert of Alain's.

Wine List - I was particularly nervous about this as it is an all French list and I know Joe Pytka was very involved in forming it. It is divided into two sections - under $100 and over $100. It is definitely possible to have good wine in the $80 to $100 category. Of course, he also has wine for $10,000. Needless to say, we were in the former category and had a Dagenau Pouilly Fume "Silex" 2000 and Marc Sorel Hermitage 1998.

This is not an inexpensive restaurant and there are still a lot of "bugs" to be worked out. They are in the beginning stages of defining who they are and what they want to be. Alain is a fine chef and if Joe Pytka lets the staff alone, Bastide can become a fine dining option in LA.

[stefanyb]

I hope they don't ever get cited by the health department because then they might be referred to as rat Bastide.

Sorry, couldn't help myself. Great post Lizziee.

[mixmaster b]

Heehee.

Thanks for the post, Liziee. I have been following the drama of Bastide with great attention. I truly hope things smooth out--we really could use a good, solid addition to the fine dining scene!

[robert40]

Sorry dont know how to link but noticed today on the LA times site that Bastide got four stars which is only one of two.

The other being Ginza Sushi-ko.

The chef Alain Giraud is highly respected in the restaurant world from my understanding.

RR

[mikeczyz]

I'm considering going to Bastide. Anyone know what lunch prices are like?

mike

[gmi3804]

Trying to make a reservation on Opentable.com, I noticed that Bastide only offers two seatings per day: 6pm or 9pm. Are a certain number of tables held for 7pm or 8pm seatings, or is each table turned every night?

[gmi3804]

Has Alain Giraud stepped down as chef at Bastide? I'd heard somewhere that he was going to hand the reigns over to his sous chef.

[jschyun]

Yes he's being replaced by Ludovic Lefèbvre (formerly of L'Orangerie). He is going to start a more casual restaurant.

la times article has a mention of it.

Edited June 22, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[gmi3804]

Yes he's being replaced by Ludovic Lefèbvre (formerly of L'Orangerie). He is going to start a more casual restaurant.

la times article has a mention of it.

Any word yet on if it's still good? I have memories of a dreamy three-hour lunch. I have a reservation for next week. It's at 9pm, but when I called and asked if I could come in earlier, I was told I could come in at any time I wanted. Not a good sign.

[jschyun]

I just read the article in the la times about the lone star Virbila gave Bastide. Wow. I guess if this review is accurate, then I'm glad I haven't had the time to get over there. What do you guys think?

[milla]

I just read the article in the la times about the lone star Virbila gave Bastide.  Wow.  I guess if this review is accurate, then I'm glad I haven't had the time to get over there.  What do you guys think?

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it certainly doesn't make one rush out to try it. It seems such a drastic change in the style of food there. I wonder what their reasoning for it was? it did say they gave the chef carte blanche though...

[Chris Cognac]

remember, reviews are mearly one persons opinion and opinons are like assholes, we all have one...now, on another note, my friday review of Bob's Akazu-ya is "spot on" as the Brits say and should be taken as gospel!!!

Edit: I case you dont get my meaning, what I am saying is that you should not rely too much on one persons review, and if you have always wanted to go someplace, then go, make it a special evening and enjoy it. Clear your mind of whatever you heard or read and just enjoy!

The last portion of my post is again and tounge and cheek reference to the same thing. I hope you all understand what I mean/meant.

Eat to enjoy and enjoy eating, no matter what anyone says!

Edited November 4, 2004 by Chris Cognac (log)

[jeffj]

The Time’s one star review of Bastide definitely got me interested in the restaurant and after reading more about Chef Lefebvre (check out the January 05 issue of Los Angeles Magazine) I was even more excited to see what the fuss was about. His controversially innovative food pairings seemed like something I might really enjoy.

Let’s get to the menu. Sorry for the poor photo quality…Bastide is very, very dimly lit.

Deconstruction of Bloody Mary

Oyster served in Sea Water Gelee, Shallot Cream, Parsley Jus

Mussel in Gelee infused with Lemongrass, Caviar “Parfait”, Saffron Crème Fraiche, White Soy Sauce

Day Boat Sea Scallop Seared With Cocoa and Peanut Licorice Milk, Udon and Green Papaya

Poached Wild Turbot, Vodka cream with Caviar

Confit of Blue Fin Tuna with Vadouvan Kimchee, Tomato Lemongrass Broth

Black Truffle Ice Cream, Truffle Syrup

Poached Capon with Wattleseed, Confit of Leg and Wild Mushrooms, Capon Mousse “au jus de Cuisson”, Hot Potato Foam, Truffle Fries with Parmesan

Les Fromages De Nicole Grandjean

“Mont Blanc”, Chesnut Ice Cream, Chocolate Gelee, Crispy Meringue, Vanilla Whipped cream, Burnt Orange Sauce, Candied Orange

Petit Fours

Wines included:

1996 Louis Metaireau Muscadet

2001 Charles Hours, Jurancon Sec, “Cuvee Marie”

2000 Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere Bordeaux

2001 Yves Cuilleron Syrah

Chateau de Montmirail Vacqueryas

1996 Chateau Moulin Haut Laroque Fronsac

Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Verdelho Madeira

First off, I really thought our menu was rather restrained compared to what I had read about. No white chocolate mashed potatoes to be seen anywhere. However, while not everything worked (the scallop and udon dish wasn’t received well by anyone at the table), overall Lefebvre’s food exuded a quiet sophistication. The cuisine is methodically refined…it feels as though a great deal of thought has gone into the relationship that each ingredient has with each other and that nothing extraneous is allowed into a dish. In addition, it was hard to find any execution flaws…everything was cooked correctly and came out at the right temperature.

The deconstructed bloody mary goes down as one of my favorite amuses of all time. It has all the right characteristics…It’s deceptively simple in appearance yet it’s mysterious by its deconstructed nature; it looks nothing like the traditional notion of a bloody mary. It can be downed quickly in one bite and it packs a flavor punch that gets your tastebuds instantly excited. And the whole conceptual parallel between starting your day with a bloody mary and this meal being started with an equivalently deconstructed amuse, tickles the intellect.

But where Bastide really shines is in the service department. From start to finish the staff put on a fantastic showing. At the top of the class was the sommelier. His presentation of the wines and extensive explanation of each was outstanding…the best wine service of any meal we’ve had. Not only were the selections rather interesting, their accompaniment with the food was spot on. The pours were extremely generous and glasses were even refilled on occasion. At only $60 for the pairing this is one of the best bargains we’ve come across. The cheese service was nearly equally impressive. The cart had a wide range of mostly foreign cheeses. The server was obviously an old pro and was able to give each guest a differently laid out plate of cheese based on their selections. It was all top notch.

Overall, it was a tremendous visit and we’ll definitely be back again in the future.

[jschyun]

Actually, I think those are lovely pics. Thanks again.

[Ore]

Ciao,

I had the luck of tasting the chefs food way back when he was still in L'Orangerie. Back then it was great - so I can only imagine him growing. The stories about the things that went on in the kitchen were on the more 'are they bullshiting' side though. You know...the hardcore frenchy throwing really expensive copper saute pans and small sauce pots all over the kitchen - yelling like a lunatic, etc. (but I am sure all fun and games!!).

One thing I must point out though is the repetitional use of GELATIN or a gelatinous product in too many of the dishes mentioned above - come on!

I'll give it a shot when I get back to LALA!

Ore

[melkor]

A few of the dishes in Jeff's post look and sound good, most I don't think I'd enjoy - the pictures themselves are excellent as usual. Really, who is still serving foams? Two dishes in a row served in gelee? It all looks as if they are trying too hard to be different and not spending enough energy putting together a cogent menu.

[jeffj]

I had the luck of tasting the chefs food way back when he was still in L'Orangerie.  Back then it was great - so I can only imagine him growing.  The stories about the things that went on in the kitchen were on the more 'are they bullshiting' side though.  You know...the hardcore frenchy throwing really expensive copper saute pans and small sauce pots all over the kitchen - yelling like a lunatic, etc. (but I am sure all fun and games!!).

←

It's funny that you should mention that....after my wife returned to the table after making a trip to the bathroom she came back and told us that she had heard a lot of yelling going on in the kitchen. She could only assume that it originated from Chef Lefebvre. So, I definitely don't doubt the validity of your story.

[jeffj]

A few of the dishes in Jeff's post look and sound good, most I don't think I'd enjoy - the pictures themselves are excellent as usual.  Really, who is still serving foams?  Two dishes in a row served in gelee?  It all looks as if they are trying too hard to be different and not spending enough energy putting together a cogent menu.

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I definitely know what you mean about foams...although the potato foam in this case was much more dense than foams I've typically had. And it was sprayed onto the plate at tableside.

That said, I have to admit that I enjoyed the meal more than my two dining companions. But I still contend that the food was mechanically solid and the service was so outstanding that I would definitely make a second trip back next time I'm in L.A.

[jschyun]

It's funny that you should mention that....after my wife returned to the table after making a trip to the bathroom she came back and told us that she had heard a lot of yelling going on in the kitchen.  She could only assume that it originated from Chef Lefebvre.  So, I definitely don't doubt the validity of your story.

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Isn't this normal? Though Les Halles was a different kind of restaurant, Bourdain documents this in his book, no? There's a lot of crazy stuff that happens in the back. I know someone who has worked some kitchens in L.A. and this person also said swearing, screaming, bitching, hissy fits, etc. start when you walk in the door. But there's so much riding on the kitchen to be perfect every time. I can see how it can be hard to maintain decorum in such a pressure cooker situation.

[arkestra]

It's funny that you should mention that....after my wife returned to the table after making a trip to the bathroom she came back and told us that she had heard a lot of yelling going on in the kitchen. She could only assume that it originated from Chef Lefebvre.

I don't know how many of you have seen it, but this reminded me of the Fawlty Towers episode "Waldorf Salad" when John Cleese pretends to yell at the chef who had already gone home.

[tanabutler]

It's funny that you should mention that....after my wife returned to the table after making a trip to the bathroom she came back and told us that she had heard a lot of yelling going on in the kitchen.  She could only assume that it originated from Chef Lefebvre.  So, I definitely don't doubt the validity of your story.

←

Isn't this normal? Though Les Halles was a different kind of restaurant, Bourdain documents this in his book, no? There's a lot of crazy stuff that happens in the back. I know someone who has worked some kitchens in L.A. and this person also said swearing, screaming, bitching, hissy fits, etc. start when you walk in the door. But there's so much riding on the kitchen to be perfect every time. I can see how it can be hard to maintain decorum in such a pressure cooker situation.

←

There are some kitchens that come to mind that are reputed to be calm, almost orchestrated. Blue Hill in NY, for one, and Thomas Keller's kitchens, as well.

Justine Miner, of RNM in San Francisco, earned that praise from Patricia Unterman, as well. "I could sit in her calm kitchen and eat my way through the menu."

Not everyone needs to be drama kings.

Edited January 15, 2005 by tanabutler (log)

[touaregsand]

It's funny that you should mention that....after my wife returned to the table after making a trip to the bathroom she came back and told us that she had heard a lot of yelling going on in the kitchen.  She could only assume that it originated from Chef Lefebvre.  So, I definitely don't doubt the validity of your story.

←

Isn't this normal? Though Les Halles was a different kind of restaurant, Bourdain documents this in his book, no? There's a lot of crazy stuff that happens in the back. I know someone who has worked some kitchens in L.A. and this person also said swearing, screaming, bitching, hissy fits, etc. start when you walk in the door. But there's so much riding on the kitchen to be perfect every time. I can see how it can be hard to maintain decorum in such a pressure cooker situation.

←

It isn't normal. The hardcore, tempermental, ranting Frenchy is a stereotype with very few real life examples. I'm sure someone here could come up some examples. But my husband has been in the industry for over 20 years and he has only worked with one French chef like this. Americans tell my hubby all the time that he is so nice for a French chef, they've never met a French chef that was so friendly. He takes it all with good humor, but he silently wonders how many French chefs these people have met.

Of course emotions can get high in a kitchen especially when they are getting slammed and someone on the line fucks up and a dish comes back, they start getting into the weeds... That's when the chef French or otherwise might yell, "WTF?!?!??!?!?"

[touaregsand]

I don't have a problem with the foam. I don't care if it's not "trendy" anymore. If it taste good that's good enough for me. Some of the dishes or rather some of the components of the dishes appeal to me. Others strike me as mad science.

"Day Boat Sea Scallop Seared With Cocoa and Peanut Licorice Milk, Udon and Green Papaya"

I can't even begin to imagine how these flavors and textures could meet on the same plate with any semblance of harmony. Cocoa, peanut and licorice would battle eachother for dominance on the palate unless used with a very sublte hand. Even then I have my doubts.

"Black Truffle Ice Cream, Truffle Syrup"

I understand that this dish is sweet. I've traveled quite a bit and eaten even more. I have a very open palate and a stomach like a goat. I can't even imagine what it would taste like. So, what did it taste like?

Les Fromages De Nicole Grandjean

The plating is akward, almost comically so. I'm hardly conservative when it comes to aesthetics or much of anything else. A fish skeleton can be beautiful to me. But this just looks clumsy.

“Mont Blanc”, Chesnut Ice Cream, Chocolate Gelee, Crispy Meringue, Vanilla Whipped cream, Burnt Orange Sauce, Candied Orange

The proportions are jolting. It looks gargantuan on the plate. Layers of hugeness piled on top of eachother.

Most of these dishes look to be in the earlier stages of experimentation, not quite there yet, more time in "the lab" needed. I don't think that great food has to appeal to everyone or even most. How can anything with character do that? It will be interesting to see where this goes. I'm not exactly waiting with baited breath though.

By the way before all of this innovation the last chef had created a tremendously successful modern French menu. Alain Giraud was dismissed by the owner, a move that highlights why the Los Angeles fine dining scene falls short of New York.

[jschyun]

It isn't normal. The hardcore, tempermental, ranting Frenchy is a stereotype with very few real life examples. I'm sure someone here could come up some examples. But my husband has been in the industry for over 20 years and he has only worked with one French chef like this. Americans tell my hubby all the time that he is so nice for a French chef, they've never met a French chef that was so friendly. He takes it all with good humor, but he silently wonders how many French chefs these people have met.

Of course emotions can get high in a kitchen especially when they are getting slammed and someone on the line fucks up and a dish comes back, they start getting into the weeds...  That's when the chef French or otherwise might yell, "WTF?!?!??!?!?"

←

Uh,I never said anything about this behavior having anything to do with being French. Yes my examples may be to blame here, sorry, but never did I intend to imply that being French had anything to do with it. Also, my point was not that they were actually throwing tantrums, but that the daily business of running a restaurant business is hard work and sometimes a person just has to let off some steam, which leads to people gossiping about how so and so yells and screams in the kitchen. This is why I said it was pretty normal.

[touaregsand]

Sorry about the confusion. Didn't mean to imply that you implied anything specifically targeting French chefs. I suppose I did imply that by quoting you in my response. ;-)

From my my experience and my husbands the kitchen usually maintains good comaraderie. Fights are more common between the BOH and FOH.